That stuff’s a revelation Charlie. I’m currently doing loads of rust removal as I’ve got a couple of old lawnmowers and rusty tools from my uncle’s house. I have been using electrolysis for items that fit in a plastic box and “Evaporust” for small parts. None of these methods would really suit gutters or larger items but that product would suit smaller items too. Evaporust works in a similar converting way but it’s a liquid and you need to keep the parts dipped in it. I’ll use your link and have a look at that stuff. Btw, as a building surveyor I spend my time looking at leaking gutters and I can confirm plastic gutters will not last any where near as long as your lovely painted cast iron ones. You’ve saved yourself £1,000’s there because cast iron gutters cost a fortune now and you will have added £1,000’s to the value of your farmhouse. No-one wants a nice period property to have plastic gutters! Good work Charlie 😎👍🏼

Keep it going. Love your straightforward approach. I'm a day job professional painter and decorator / handyman. Your testing efforts have helped me out no ends. Thanks mate. Have personal disagreements in places but genuinely think your channel deserves more exposure and recondition. Well done and thanks. Keep it going.

For the top coat you should try Zinsser allcoat. A fantastic product, water based as well. Satin and a soft gloss finish. It drys to a real factory finish look. 👍🏻 Awesome work by the way.

Thank you for another useful and entertaining video. Your effort is well worth it.

Very useful. I have used what I think is similar stuff on cars and bikes from a small pot for years, but never seen or thought it could do that kind of job on a large scale. Your gutters look brilliant.

Thank you Charlie! Great video and great timing for me too!

Helpful as always. Great work.

Another great video matey. I'm definitely going to get some for next year's exterior work!

Thanks Charlie, can't wait for next week's video!

So glad to find you! Was looking for rust fix for the doorknobs in my NYC apartment as I don’t want to replace all 8!

Excellent content in this very helpful video.Thanks

Very informative Charlie, keep e’m coming 👍👍

🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. ☕Charlie DIYte Discord Membership bit.ly/3xuQ3zb - DIY forum access and helps support my Channel. 👚Charlie DIYte Merch Store charlie-diyte.myspreadshop.co.uk/ - some cool new designs!

Very interesting video. Thank you Charlie!

Brilliant video, thank you Charlie

I have been using Hammerite Kurust on dodgy cars for years. Great stuff but it also only comes in small tubs. Another great video. Thank you.

Just want to say many thanks - I’ve been researching loads of videos, websites etc so I can cure the rust on my faithful 02 MK3 Ford Mondeo and don’t want to get rid of it. Kind regards, Kev (Tyne and Wear)👍🏻👍🏻

Very useful, thanks!

Have used that tiny pot when restoring our old fireplaces. Wish we had known about this back then! 👍👍

Love your vids Charlie, keeping me one step ahead of myself :D

Psychic Charlie strikes again. Just about to restore an old Singer sewing machine with a rusty treadle and frame as a winter project and had just starting to look for rust treatments. Wasn't a product that appeared when searching but it looks just perfect for that and have ordered a small tub of it.

Great work

Another great video Charlie, hope all is well, take care

Good stuff! WÜRTH had similar (if not the same) thing for ages, but only in liquid form. Been using it on my racing 4x4.

I have to say Charlie no one can beat a jhonston gloss loved the video,

Wow, that’s a brilliant product

It's good stuff. I had seen it years ago with car restoration adverts - it seemed a bit expensive so I didn't bother but having seen your excellent in depth video I got some to de-rust a steel girder. It's fabulous stuff and you can go over it with black Hammerite for extra durability. I've used it on various things since even a car wing and wished I'd appreciated it sooner. Thanks👍

Great video as ever, and very relevant to work I'm doing now, so many thanks. I've removed a load of cast iron guttering from my cottage and was about to replace with plastic, but you've made me think again! If I may, I'd like to pass on a few things as well although I suspect most people will already know them. - You can use food-grade citric acid as a rust remover (not converter) either dabbed on or, best of all, as a bath for anything small. Dissolve in boiling water for best effect. It will remove rust efficiently although you may have to leave overnight or a few days if the rust is thick. Remove flakes and loose rust first of course. Be aware it will remove _all_ the rust and you will be left with pits and holes where the corrosion was, but these can be filled with paint afterwards (such as Frost Extreme Chassis Black) depending upon application. It will also remove the aluminium or zinc anodising you sometimes find on bolts etc. so be aware. I use citric acid a lot hence I buy it in 5kg bags for under £17, and it lasts quite a while. Water based and non-toxic. - Jenolite is a rust converter (not remover) I have used a lot, but I really like the look of this Neutrarust so will certainly be buying some now. Jenolite works well but doesn’t have the acrylic waterproofing aspect that Charlie spoke about, or at least if it does I haven’t noticed. - Exterior paints like Weathershield and Stormshield are, as Charlie says, useful for more than just the house. Their flexible nature makes them ideal for use under vehicles. I’m just about to paint a replacement under-slung metal fuel tank with Weathershield for my ageing 4x4. The paint is tough but you can always top-coat with bitumen if you feel the need. - If you have a compressor (and if you don’t then you _really_ should), then get yourself a needle scaler. It’s really noisy in use (wear ear protection) but superb for removing loose rust from non-delicate surfaces. I’ve also been using it to remove some nasty acrylic paint from a stone wall want to repoint in lime mortar. A very versatile tool. (If you do buy a compressor you’ll wonder why you hadn’t done so before, I promise you.)

Nifty looking product! I actually quite like the black (primed) finish, trés heritage

This is used in the North sea on oil rigs, I have used this many times and is a great product

You’re videos are my favourite, so much info . The metal gutters and downpipes are beautiful, compared to plastic ones . Interesting product , like how your car was repaired ready for priming . I hope you get to make some money for your hardwork or a job offer on TV 📺 would be great 👍🏽.

Thank you

Recognised those MK4 spots a mile away - I’ve just done mine - she is 21 so not bad really! Great video as always. I’d also pull back the wheel arch liner slightly and clear out the debris.

Very nice. As a painter and decorator we always try to explain to do a decent proper job its going to take some time. Rarely are the prepared to pay. Shame because its so worth it

"Neutrarust haven't paid me anything for this video.." I love the integrity.

Charlie, you should start a car channel :) Great video, useful, I used Kurust on some radiators, seems to work ok.

A very useful resource. Thank you.

Good videos m8

Take a look at ACF-50 Anti corrosion spray. They made it for aircraft carriers and now use on motor bikes. I spray van with it. Thanks. Great video and helpful

Hey Charlie what fixing would you use on a hollow door ?

I have often found these rust converters not very good for the long term, but the Bonda Prima I can confirm is a hidden gem. Fantastic product and very effective.

Good stuff. Out of interest how badly do cast iron fittings rust on the inside of the downpipes etc. Just as bad as the outside?

Looks similar to bilt hambers deox range of rust converters / protection products.

I used Neutrarust on a refurb on in painted rusty cast brake calipers on a Volvo XC70 .I stripped off the loose rust to a decent smooth ( enough) surface …. Painted it on and this transformed the surface to a very pleasing finish…..used it on all similar surfaces under the car ………absolutely delighted with the result …..now have a LR Discovery 4 which has seen a few Northern winters now and look forward to what I know will be a transformation … Highly recommend Neutrarust also … !

Another really useful video. Thank you. Would you recommend this for low level surface rust on car underbody or an alternative? Just had my MOT done and had a few advisories on rust on shocks, springs and exhaust which will likely need work before next years MOT. I'm thinking I should treat this now before winter sets in. Not too fussed about painting over it afterwards if I can get away with it.

Thanks. Would be interesting to see how that works on your car as I've tried several brands of rust converter and none seem to work.

Thanks Charlie a useful video. I’ve got to repaint our oil tank and had bought some hammeright for the purpose, but the rust neutraliser looks to be a better bet beforehand to give a more solid and rustproof surface to paint on. And seems very good price as well

Your videos always arrive at a pertinent time, Charlie! I think our realities must be in some sort of synchrocity!

how do you remove rusted elements from a steel/chrome kitchen dish drainer ?

Is the product for sale in Europe?

Blimey! Seems a wonder product! Cheers Charlie, I’ll be getting some!

Nice vid Charlie, can you use this on a car exhaust pipe?

Used a similar product by Jenolite - sprayed it into every cavity on my car's chassis till it was dripping out. Used about 4L for a small car, so make sure you don't overdo it. Hard to get good atomisation with a flexi lance on a shutz gun, so this is where it gets expensive on the liquid. So far so good though, time will tell how long the sills last!

Back in the 70s I used to use a rust converter on rusty spots on cars. It did exactly this - converted to a hard black neutral surface. I don't remember what it was called...

Hi, any tips as to how brush/grate off rusty flakes on old balcony iron balustrades, before applying this rust marrying product? Thanks.🙂🙂

Incredibly helpful. Thank you Charlie, I'll be giving this gunk a run out.

I need to treat a scabby van floor that has a mix of light surface rust and deeper thick pitting in places but there is still some decent paint in between and the odd bit of bare metal after some sanding. If I paint this stuff over the full floor, rust and sound paint, will it be ok to hammerite smooth straight over it ?

Hi Charlie -can one use the neutra 661 on a radiator please? Thanks

Love the finish looks so much better than plastic, but I do love new aluminium 👍 “just expensive “ Just a thought, you didn’t show the best way to remove the down pipes or guttering. As I no this can be quite difficult. As in rusted fixings to wall and brick work. Could be another video perhaps 🤔

That rust converter is essentially just tannic acid, which is the main ingredient of products such as Kurust. Never been a fan of those, as they only tend to penetrate the surface layer of rust, allowing the underneath to continue rusting, which will eventually bleed through. I've had better results with phosphoric acid which removes the rust, then either a zinc rich, or graphene primer, then top coat.

There are some great products in the automotive world like Bill Hambrr Deox and Por 51 which can then be primed with Electrox zinc primer. Have done this on my car and it’s been incredibly successful. Edit: if you take off the arch liners on the mk4 you’ll probably find huge chunks of mud which is keeping the metal damp.

Wait, did you sand the repaired Golf rust patch and then prime the metal? Worked out okay? Car paint is hard to say the least.

Is this any different from Hammerite Kurust?

Could you use this stuff to restore a rusty workbench clamp?

If I used this on the bottom of my car what would you recommend to paint over it with.

I'm a fan of electrolytic derusting...

👍👍👍

Thanks Charlie.. Great video mate. I'd like to replace my cheep plastic crap with some new cast iron guttering but the price is putting me off at the moment mate lol 👍👍👍👍

THATS STRANGE , they just happen to have put their price up 2 quid! on the day of your video from when you filmed it,

Im doing my gutters at the moment. Im using electrolysis to take off all the rust

What about the inside? The bit that gets the most water

Charlie, you need to setup a "Thanks" button on your youtube account so I can tip you a coffee now and then for all time/money saved from using your advice.

Phosphoric acid from ebay. Converts the rust to a black phosphate that prevents further rusting and can even be overpainted.

Would be good to see how to remove rust from tools. You know when you leave a hammer or pliers outside in a shower.

How about using gutters made of aluminium, and forget about all this?

Could you just leave the black nutrarust on and not paint it. ?

There is no magic one-step way to remove rust from iron or steel and rust-protect it. Unless the rust is very minor, like flash or light surface rust, you have to first remove as much of it as you can through a combination of chemical, mechanical and electric (electrolysis) methods, degrease it and treat the underlying metal with a phosphoric acid-based solution to neutralize and convert whatever rust still remains and etch the bare metal for better primer and/or topcoat adhesion, and then prime and/or topcoat with your preferred product(s), to seal and protect the derusted and converted metal so air and moisture can't penetrate to create new rust, and make it more aesthetically pleasing. Basically: 1 - Remove as much rust as you can, chemically, mechanically and/or electrically 2 - Degrease the derusted metal 3 - Apply a phosphoric acid-based product to neutralize and convert remaining rust and etch bare metal 4 - Apply primer and/or topcoat to seal the derusted and treated metal and make it look nice If you skip any of these steps, rust is almost guaranteed to return.

Why does it matter of you remove all the rust? As long as you remove the oxygen there shouldn't be anymore rust.

Oh, the regret I have that we allowed builders to remove 1903 iron roof gutters and down pipes with plastic replacements! The gutters now warp and shrink with the seasons so that leaks are the norm.

How did you deal with that awkward little 1/4 inch section that’s closest to he wall, and also behind those awkward brackets that hold the pipe close to the wall? Hard to prepare without fully removing everything. Did you actually remove everything from site?? It wasn’t clear if you had done that! If you did remove everything for treatment then you absolutely should make that fact clear! The inference is that it’s super easy and non intrusive! If removal of of all the fittings to prep and apply the anti rust treatment is required then you’re definitely misleading your viewers!! ???