where did you get the peroxide from

@@ddizon666 I don’t recall ever seeing h2o2 in gel form.

@@ddizon666hair supplies, bleaching is typically done with peroxide gel

Thank you to appreciate this type of content. Glad to hear something positive.👍

LOL! That's why I always use foil wrap!

You people are strange.

That’s because the retail wrap is crap.Go to a restaurant supply store.

@@67buzzo retail everything is crap

You should see me try to fold a fitted sheet. 😉

Now you have a new green one.🙂

Yes, in some case. But good if you have no other option.🙂

Failed year 10 chemistry, but here's what the internet says - Hydrogen peroxide bleaches in the same way as chlorine, it oxidises chromophones, essentially taking the electrons that hold atoms together causing molecules that cause staining to fall apart. (I've been using it for years on old plastic TV cases and radios)

@@bitingmidge4981 : I think you just answered my question; Does it work on opaque plastics, such as white or cream plastic that has yellowed?

@@PiefacePete46 Yes, a lot of RV/motorhome people use it on their plastic trims.

@@PiefacePete46 Particularly so. The whole Retr0bright process was discovered primarily to remove yellowing from 80s and 90s era computer case plastics, which were mostly beige or grey. If you don't have sun, you can do this indoors with a UV light but it will take longer.

Thank you for checking out.🙂

You’re welcome 😊

No worries and thank you for watching.

Why do you need the plastic wrap? I also thought is was to keep the peroxide from evaporating too quickly.

@@jaalcorta I haven't look at the comments in awhile, but you can scroll down and find one where the question was posed and he answered it. It was to keep it from evaporating quickly, as you suspected, but he may also have said more than that, and I just don't remember . . .

A long comment and doesn't even get to the point.

YESSSS!!! I too am one of those people who is happy to follow instructions... just so long as I know why. 😂😂😂 It's like the story of the kids at the Summer camp. The counselors told them to stay off the West Dock. To only use use the Easf Dock. But to many of us that's like "Don't press the red button". 😂 Or it's just, "Okay you say that but is there a good reason?" Anyway.... The kids snuck out went to fhe West Dock one night. (Duh.) And they played on the dock a while and everything was fine. Then they jumped in the water. And when they went to climb back up, there were THOUSANDS of venomous spiders underneath the dock and all over the ladder. If the counselors had just told them WHY, no kid would've gone near it. But because they didn't, 2 boys died and 3 others were treated for necrotic spider bites.

@@YeahNoTellTheTruth that comment shouldn't have taken you more than 10 seconds MAX to read. And their point was clear. I think its about time you reevaluate your intelligence levels.

Ha ha ha, yes indeed hard to understand the chemistry.🙂

I thought the cling wrap stops the UV. Was I mistaken?

@@jimkoss3318 The wrap is to prevent the cream from drying out. The less air the better. So don't use microwave film. ;) The UV is a key component. Otherwise it wouldn't make sense to use a UV lamp

Good stuff! 🙂

Glad it was helpful!

I cleaned a stained enamel bath with 35% food grade H2O2. Only. That which I had. The product ran out. The bath is not 100% clean. But the difference. As opposed to the effort. Is astonishing. Thanks!

Cool project, some people painting them as well.

Very good set up you have, here I've just used the sun and it is free. Avoid to getting yellow again you can use UV stabilized varnish.🙂

@@MasterT-n2c Heh, yeah I could have used the sun as well but oftentimes we have pretty bad weather so when I saw some videos about building a Retrobright box I went straight to work on it. I already had a suitable plastic box with a lid as well as some clear glass containers (to put the peroxide and yellowed items in); so I only needed a roll of reflective sticky foil, some UV led strips, and ofcourse the 12% Hydrogenperoxide. So fortunately the costs remained reasonable. 🙂 Thanks a lot for the tip regarding UV stabilized varnish by the way! 👍 I'll have to take a look and see if I can get me some of that; especially for my white vehicles that seem to suffer the most from this yellowing effect. Hopefully a thin coat of that varnish would help in avoiding the yellowing effect.

@@DanakarEndeel No worries so many UV stabilized product on the market you'll find one I'm sure. 😊

@@DanakarEndeel You can usually find UV protective varnishes in the art section of many craft stores. I know Krylon makes one, and it comes in matte, satin, and gloss finishes. I use it on all of my garden decor pieces so they don't fade.

@@Caeleinn Cheers! Thank you for your reply, I appreciate it. I will take a look and see if I can find these varnishes from Krylon. Here's hoping they adhere to plastic. I have some old M.A.S.K. toys and the white ones are turning a little yellowish so here's hoping that I can give them some UV protection after whitening them. 🙂

Hello friend thank you for watching.

Thank you.🙂

Hairdryer?how

You can bring back faded plastic with it, but that will not take the yellowing out. The peroxide method is the best.

Voila *

*Voilà

long story short* (...) and voilá!

Peroxide breaks down into harmless stuff after brief exposure to light and air. That's why it's kept in thick, often dark colored plastic bottles. Absolutely nothing to worry about once it's done its thing.

Thanks for watching!

Great idea!!

Yes it is a fascinating process, I bought my peroxide from ebay. Check that out. Thank you for watching and commenting.👍🙂

Yes it was! Thank you for watching and commenting.

Yes indeed, some clear ones takes for ever. Thanks for the feedback.👍

Yes and yes, in this form easier to work with.

Yes, this is a "salon chemical" not a "household chemical" at this concentration.

Is this type of peroxide only available in salon supply stores?

I thought it was only used for making bombs - esp the IED type ....... WTF do I no ....

Good luck! Thank you for watching.🙂

i tried it and i didnt use the foam 12% just the watery 3% and no plastic wrap and only 1 day in sun... sorry but i forgot most of it or didnt have the things... But it did make a difference ...NOW i a going to do it like you did it and i bet it turns out perfect!!! and thank you for making this!!@@MasterT-n2c

Thanks 👍

Yes exactly the sun is free to use.🙂

No problem 👍

You bet!

Transferred from my other channel. Thank you for watching. 🙂

Thank you! Cheers!

Please let me know the result

Thank you.

Ha ha ha.🙂 Still faster than in Iceland.

No problem

Very simple, thank you for watching.🙂

Wow, I didn't know that, thanks for sharing. 🙂

I call it the "peroxide process." Or "free radical oxidation." I kind of find it annoying when we take something that already has a name and give it a less descriptive name.

Ah and so it is. Good tip en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retrobright

My pleasure🙂

Go for it.🙂

Good stuff, thank you for watching.

Sorry. But you’re wrong about the peroxide. I have white plastic item that apparently were yellowed from the sun and the peroxide plus sun can resolve it in a day or two.

Putting things in the sun use the same mecanisme than peroxyde. It's the oxidation that produce ozone that do the trick. Outdoor, you need to put humidity on the things for the uv rayon of the sun to separate the water. Try putting humid white linen spread on the grass. It will be far more white after some hours.

You just heated it up and slightly melted the plastic. That's not much different than using a heat gun.

If you working on some vintage item you don't have too many other choice, to further protecting your object you can apply clear epoxy or UV resistant polyurethane.

@@MasterT-n2c Agree.

Loosing weakeners.

​​@@MasterT-n2cdo you have experience how long does this treatment last? Like I heard these plastics have a protective outside coat which is what this peroxide reacts with. So after treatment the plastic loses this coat and so the yellowing will comeback faster. Will I get a few years say 2, 3 years by doing this?

Hi there, thank you for asking, and yes the treatment can last anywhere between half an hour up to 5 days depends of the composition of the plastic to avoid the yellowing coming back I do recommend a uv protecting coat to apply and and you have no worries it will last forever.@@hsp1316

Thank you for watching. 🙂

For smudgy (blurry) car headlights just use any metal polishing creme with a soft cloth.

Some clip said use deep woods Off mosquito spray. I tried it. It works! It melts the surface of the lenses after a few hours. I did one round and a white lenses got clear with run marks. Much better, and good enough. But more monkeying around could clear the runs.

You're welcome!

Maybe you can try this method next time.

Thanks for watching.🙂

Yes absolutely. Thank you for watching.

Thank you for watching.

UV light can work as well for sure.

Thank you for watching, well every plastic reacts differently to the peroxide on some of them works very fast on others takes ages and they all get little hazy not sure why.? I only use this method when I can't do anything else. 🙂

Glad it was helpful!

Szia, koszi a latogatast.🙂

Yes that is correct, thank you for sharing.

Leaving yellowed decals in the sun for a while also clears them up 🙂

You mean just place it in the sun without the product ?

isn't the sun what causes yellowing in the first place?

But that's where he placed it, in the sun. I don't get this comment...

Yes, that would work.

This method is still ok if you have no other alternative.

You bet!

Yes, it is a Tonka toy car from the 70's.

Yes indeed, use this if you have no other choice. Alternatively you can protect your object further with uv protecting sealant.

This one is in cream form.

Hi there, bought it from ebay.🙂 Thank you for watching.

Yes it should work. 🙂

Can I use a UV light instead of the sun?

@@fjbsolutions2446 Yes absolutely.

It should work, yes.

Thanks. I'll try and let you know.

Ok, thank you.👍@@Alkiyan

stronger, you mean dinatured alcohol right?

@@endurofan9854 Denatured has nothing to do with the strength. Denatured means that a toxic chemical was added so you can't drink the alcohol. The strength is indicated on the bottle as % alcohol compared to the % of water added to the pure alcohol.

I"ve always found it much more difficult to clean when using alcohol. If I just stick with beer it's better, though, otherwise I just start watching the telly... :)

I reckon you can use this method.

Not going to change it too much.

Not sure if this will work on resin but if you leave it long enough probably take the paint off.

Sometimes I do repair cameras but I haven't tested this method on rubber parts. Not sure if this will work.?

Armor-all wipes, the kind for dashboards typically removes that tackiness.

IPA has worked for me

@@daveh7914 Alcohol is for removing the rubber coating entirely, not for removing the tackiness of a degrading surface coat. If you're going the route of removing the coating entirely, then there are probably more effective ways to do that, like some variety of cleaning solution specifically meant for removing old sticker coatings, like Goo Gone, or your offbrand equivalent.

@@Thalanox You're correct. IPA is an effective and inexpensive way to remove the tacky coating completely down to the base material. I've used it on a pocket camera and powerbank. I suspect in the majority of cases once the outer surface becomes tacky the remainder is going to deteriorate rapidly anyway.

You need the sun uv or an artificial uv light. Should work if you leave it long enough.

Probably, yes.🙂

stephenbay9564> The hazing of headlights is usually on the inside and not so much on the outside. I have a 1999 GMC extended cab truck and I’ve cleaned the outside of my headlights by watching almost every youtube video several times to no avail or success. While I’m able to completely detach the whole headlight assembly on each side there’s no way to open them (sealed shut) to clean the inside…probably bc the manufacturer wants you to buy a complete new headlight assembly at a ridiculous price. Hope this helps.

Wow that is a lot. Worth to try.🙂

Ha ha ha, you are funny. They can use UV light instead of the sun.🙂

Need uv light in order to work.

You’re better off using a high grit wet and dry sand paper, then buffing the plastic lenses up with a polishing compound

@@melwick04 Thanks dude thats what I have been doing, once a year!! Just before the MOT!

It should work, thank you for watching.

I think so yes.

Yes absolutely works better on white plastic, this clear one is the difficult one.🙂

I bought it from ebay.

Great analytics thank you.🙂

@@MasterT-n2c yeah its better and faster than this ^^

Can be used on any type of plastic.

I think so.

Maybe but I'm not sure.

Thanks for sharing

This is from a Tonka dump truck from the 1970's 🙂

Hmmm. interesting combination, sorry I'm not sure.

I'm not sure.

May work.🙂

Does it affect my lenses

@@gamingwithvat8616 Maybe, can leave a some hazy finish. That may need to polish after. Not sure if this is the best method to fixing up glasses.

This is my question as well.

It should work on it.

yes it will work

ebay you can also buy stronger one that will work faster. May work on headlights as well.

@@MasterT-n2c thanks

They might sell 12% peroxide in beauty/hair salon supply stores.

Works on most yellowed plastic.

This method should work.👍

wow 🙂

The aim was to make it clear and the yellowing was mostly on the outside.🙂

Yes, takes some time. The time is also depends on the type of plastic you are working with.