You're very welcome! We just started having the same issues again, and I had to open the hatch by crawling into the trunk over the folded down rear seat, remove the 2 plastic panel screws, get the panel away from the hatch enough to get my hand in there, and trigger the rod for opening. With the hatch opened, I started doing voltage and ground test again, and using the 2 spare parts that I purchased from the wrecking yard prior to making this video, as my function test parts. I found that the 2 brown-with-black stripe wires that are in the tan plastic connector on the driver's side of the hatch, had metal contacts that had just lost their "springy" tension, that keeps the female metal contact grabbing the male metal contact. Wiggling either the wires on either side of that tan connector, or wiggling the 2 connector halves, immediately made the latch start to function again. I cut the wires off that connector, and used 2 butt-splice connectors to permanently connect the wires. Problem solved. I then inspected the similar style connectors on the other side of the hatch, which control the roof spoiler that this car has, and sure enough, they were green with corrosion inside. Cleaned those up, and put dielectric grease on the metal contacts.

Thanks so much for the kind words, and I'm glad the video was helpful!

I'm so glad to hear this! Thanks for the feedback and for watching!!

Glad it helped!

You're very welcome! I'm glad you'll be able to fix it.

You are very welcome! I hope it helps you sort out the issue. These cars are a complete PIA.

Thank you very much!

I hope this winds up fixing it! Thanks for watching!

You're very welcome!

Thanks for watching!

You might have to align the latch and striker, so that when the electric servo actuates the latch, there isn't so much tension/pressure on the assembly, that it can release the trunk, and the spring assist will pop it up/open. Sounds like it would be a good idea to remove the trunk panel, inspect for water stains that start from around the 3rd brake like, and then open and inspect all of the connectors.

The exact same thing on my son's 2000 Beetle, I have just ordered x2 new Rear Hatch supports to see if that helps. It stays up but it is heavier than it should be. I'll reply here if it solves the popping open issue. His also locks and the alarm goes off, normally when I am loading the car lol. The other day, the keys got locked in the car...

I wonder if the latch needs to be adjusted so that the trunk isn't held so tightly?

@@austinado16 hadn’t thought of that. Will inspect and adjust. Thanks!

I think that's normal in a low voltage, dying/dead battery situation. There might be a procedure to follow in you owner's manual, like; with the key on, open and close the sunroof, open and close the windows. You can also probably open and close the windows and the sunroof (if it has one) by putting the key into the driver's door lock, rotating the lock in the direction of unlocking, and hold it in that "unlocking" position for a few seconds. The windows will power down and the sunroof will open. You probably need to re-type the radio's safety code, by following the instructions in the owner's manual, and radio code should be in there too. There's a great online forum for beetles and you could join and ask there. Might save you a trip to the dealer.

You're welcome

I'm sorry, I don't remember. What I'd suggest is; hold the switch in one position, and take your ohm readings. Then place the switch in the other position, and take the same ohm readings. If you see that the reading change, indicating the switch is showing "closed" and "open" within the latch, then you can reasonably say that the switch works.

@@austinado16 thanks. That what I tried but to me the reading I am getting don’t make sense for the3 pin connection as I am getting the same reading across the 3 pins when lock is closed and open circuit across the 3 pin when lock is open. I’ve order a new lock so will see I’ve that reads the same

You'll have to open the trunk and remove the plastic upholstery panel. Then inspect the components that I show in the video and see if they left anything unplugged. Or, just take it back to them since it's just been worked on by them, and is covered under their warranty. Thanks for watching!

There's no way to accurately diagnose via keyboard. It sounds like the system is functioning, but no voltage is being sent to the components in the trunk, as I detailed in the video. Take the trunk interior panel off, as described, and go through the diagnostic process.

@@austinado16 Gotcha 👍

Well, I got it to work by finally taking pictures of the mechanism and then being able to see that there was adjustment on the small black plastic piece that presets the "pull length" to release the hatch. My nexy questions is, should the struts then left the hatch all the way up?

Thanks for watching! Sounds like you have fixed it. To answer your second question, no, the hatch struts do not automatically lift the hatch after you hit the "open" button (on the fob, or on the door). They're just there to facilitate lifting the weight of the hatch, and to hold it fully open, once opened.

Thanks so much. Your video really help me understand things.

A few options: 1) Contact your local VW Dealer and order the part. 2) Visit a local wrecking yard and harvest the part from a car. 3) Locate the online parts diagrams for the car, referencing the correct diagram, look up the part number, and then order it, either locally from your dealer, or from a dealer online.

But do u know what the part is called specifically so I know what to order

@@libbymclean6920 It's just a link rod that goes from the trunk latch servo, to the latch. There's only one, as you see in the video, so if you go to your local dealer, or the wrecking yard, it should be easy to get.

I don't know. My thought is; no, because the roof spoiler is a different electrical system, and located up above the glass at the very top of the hatch. It's probably more likely that the wiring located in the rubber boots between the roof and the hatch, in the hinge area, is broken/cracked, or there's some other failure.

Thanks for watching. I agree with you. I've been a very proud VW owner, since my first Rabbit (a '75 carbureted 4 door in that crazy school bus yellow) that I purchased used for $50, threw a set of cheap Sears tires on it ($19ea) and drove it to Anchorage, Alaska and back, from SoCal, 3,600mi each way. I followed that up with a used '79 Diesel 2 door, and replaced that in '94, with an '81 Diesel LX pickup, which is still my daily. We also had an '86 Jetta 4 door gas, as a family car in the late '90's. I've been both a hobbyist and a professional mechanic on VW/Audi and most other European makes, including being a lead tech at the local VW dealer. The only reason why we own this Beetle, is because it is one of only 500 built and it was what my daughter wanted to buy with her own money, as her first car. It took considerable effort to find, and when delivered via car carrier from a used car lot in Texas, it needed a ridiculous amount of work. The majority of what it needed was electrical, like you've seen in this video. It's been an endeavor well worth doing with her, and has offered plenty of brain teasers.

@@austinado16 You are welcome. I have been blessed to do the majority of the work my Beetle needs. The only reason I dont sell is because I put a lot of money and work in it my self. I had to convert the electric window into automatic . because the windows just kept going down on its own. I have to do the other one.has the same problem. I only buy Jeeps and Toyotas. unfortunately Fords and Rams are too expensive. My beetle now runs but second and fourth wont go in(its manual) Mechanic say it some plastics problems in the shifter. and right now it is not the time to buy new or used cars. so dam expensive.

Left side of dash, facing the door. You have to open the left door to see the fuse door. Inside the fuse door will be a piece of paper that tells what each fuse is for.

These were designed at the VAG design and training center in Westlake, CA, and built in Mexico. I'm not impressed with any aspect of the Beetle. I'm long time owner of both Volkswagen, and Audi vehicles, was a lead tech at the local dealer, and prior to that, worked in several local high-end independents. My daily is still an '81 VW Rabbit Diesel Pickup. I've trained at their training center. If this one wasn't 1 of only 500 built, we wouldn't still own it.

@@austinado16 How do you determine if yours is one of only 500 made? Thanks!

@@j.d.singer8517 In 2002, Volkswagen produced 2000 "Color Concept" models, in each of series of colors (Snap Orange, Cyber Green, Double Yellow, Blue Lagoon, Red Uni, and Brilliant Black). Of those 2000 cars of each color, 500 were 5 speed manual transmission models.

@@austinado16 Thanks so much for your reply. Is Cyber Green the same color as what I have heard to be called "alien" green?

@@j.d.singer8517 I've only heard it called Cyber Green, as that is it's official name.