thanks Doug...

thankyou!

Thanks for watching.

thanks Bassmatazz

you are welcome!

yeah that stuff works great. People are making comments here thinking it is glue. They dont understand.

Thanks for watching.

Same here. This is a good idea if you were going to hang it on the wall as a show piece or maybe put on market to sell. Launching off boat ramps and going through Louisiana swamps with mine, I'd have to make this a full time job. Now I understand some kayaks may be cheaper with thinner material and may need these scratches attended to.

Was thinking the same thing first time out with my canoe I had bigger scratch's that this haha

The white water kayak dudes in France buy cheap tarps. PET tarps, that is. Exactly the right material. In a heavy duty kayak, color is not important. And they use an electric hot air paint remover for melting. The hard part is to melt the crack as well, not just the new material. You do not want just a flat new surface, you want the crack repaired. As good as new. Working too slow or too fast is no good. You'd heat up too much or not enough boat plastic. It looks easy, but it isn't. I do hope this video is not just cosmetics. Looks great, okay. And how good is it? I can't judge that, so I ask. Did you repair cracks that caused a leak? Deep cracks? Long cracks?

you are welcome

It does work great

thank you for watching. please share the video

These are deep scratches... iron will not smooth them out. I also have another way to smooth out the finer scratches and will be making a video for that too.

yeah it is easy once you get the hang of it

When I skied and needed to repair the bottom of my ski, I would take a clothes iron, heat it, hold it point down, and press the stick to the bottom of the hot iron so the liquid would run off the point to the place where you needed a fill. That way there is no burning and carbon. You are just melting the stick. You need to use a dedicated iron.

i hope it works out for you Bob

Glad you liked it. share with your friends :)

Thanks Russell. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

thank you Karlos

yes that is definitely another option

LL Justice what did you use to heat the plastic im trying to repair a crack

Would it bond, seal and strongly fix a long scratch that went all the way through?

@@Hundert1 probably will require someone than is familiar with plastic welding.

Thank you... that is what I was trying to accomplish.

Mine really got torn up even after I filmed this. I had to do it again

thanks for watching Phil

thank you!

Jerry, this is step #1 of the process. My step #2 which I did not publish yet will take care of the surface scratches that you are concerned about.

Nope. Rather have faded spots vs filling in with water.

I was wondering where you were.

They definitely harden like plastic and not wax. Not sure whether it is as hard as the kayak plastic. I think it has a lower melting point. They are used on the bottom of skis too for when they get deep scratches in them.

I am going to give it a try - Thanks.

Lin, if you sliced all the way through the kayak, then I would not use this stuff to repair it. I think you may need to do some plastic welding

No I dont have a video on keel guard plates. However, I am coming up with a video on an alternative product to protect the bottom of the kayak

The candles are low density. Kayak is high density poly. Get free hdpe from poly tarps or milk and water jugs.

Jonny, this is plastic... not wax or hot glue. I doubt this is stronger than the original hull. If so, then hobie should just make the kayak out of this stuff LOL. It is however very strong and strong enough to repair the deep scratches. Cleaning out the scratches and then also using a little solvent will allow for a sterile environment for the two plastics to bond together.

Fish Finder thanks, we kayak out shark baits and bring a piece of old carpet to slide the kayak onto, the launch ramp was giving the bottom a rough time

It looks like wax.... was it???

@@jonnywaselectric I carry a couple of pieces of 2x4 to slide the kayak onto. I have lava rock here that just slices into the plastic.

okay then... you may need to buy a few of these

When you shave it, the shavings are soft because they are very thin. I do not use a welding gun because that is not how these sticks are supposed to work. They are meant to be lit like you saw in the video. I have been using these things since the early 80s.

or I an use my wife's good one

yellow was not available

I am glad it worked out for you...

@@FishFinder lol. Thank you for you tuta-lage, 😎🖒

it stays because it is not wax... it is plastic

@@FishFinder My bad... I heard "candle" and automatically thought wax. That makes sense. Thanks!

link is in the description and the first pinned comments

Aren't most these plastic kayaks made from ABS? Maybe Amazon sells PVC and ABS at very cheap prices. 🙏

Google1 User well; I’m gong to try to fabricate a new leading edge using plastic lumber I want to bring all the way up and beyond the top of the kayak about 10” maybe and wrap it all the way to the end creating a full keel. I’ll glue and bolt this new part on then melt plastic into the recessed screw holes. The intent is to increase the bow height to function more like a Nordic vessel and actually many ancient vessels had bow and stern sweeping up in order to react to waves faster and longer. These kayak manufacturers aren’t really very customer friendly are they?

yes that is correct

it is holding up great

I am not sure if it is compatible..

The material must be the same exact material to be a sound fix. Other materials as this one will work, but as you can see the plastic rods used here are a much softer material than the kayak. Try using a wax candle and you can make it look good, but it will not be a good fix. It will be more easily scratched in those areas. This gives a much prettier finished fix, but not what most are looking for. Most kayaks are made from #2 HDPE (High Density Polyethylene). This is generally found on the bottom of most plastic type products. Find containers and cut strips as needed. You can research the melting point and using a heat gun to melt the material into superficial scratches as this method does. I recommend this for a stronger fix and can avoid those black spots cause by using a soldering iron or a lighter as in this video. The soldering iron is a great tool in deeper scratches and patch repairs. Cleaning out the scratches is very important to have the material bond as good as possible as when you are soldering any type of material. Just a recommendation from my experience working in manufacturing for over 12 years and many more years of self experimentation. But whatever works for you is going to be from trial and error. Best of luck in all of your repairing process!!!

scraping is no problem at all if you are skilled with a flexible razor blade.

@@FishFinder I use a 6" dutch razor every day in my work, but not on a plastic boat. The tarp method is much faster for repairing a well-used boat with multiple gouges. Also, I have used ptex candles for over 40 years. For skis or whatever you're working on, freeze your ptex candles before use to keep the flame small and reduce soot. Best to hold the dripping candle very close and let it fully melt and drip, but don't touch it to the work surface directly - it's not a welding rod.

I used p-tex for years when I was a ski tech. I am very comfortable using that stuff.

If it goes all the way through, then it is no longer a scratch.

@@FishFinder Exactly, now how to repair the cut through the hull?

For a hole that goes all the way through... I would use epoxy

@@FishFinder do you have an epoxy you recommend for Hobies? I've been using JB Waterweld and then flexseal spray over that, but it keeps getting torn off each time I launch (cement ramp covered in oysters)... would love any tips!

but this is not glue. give that a shot on your kayak

Tony C I just checked both links and they worked for me

these are not glue.. they are plastic

it is possible that it could blend well. However, you will likely end up with a scar like the one you see on the kayak that I repaired in the video.

@@FishFinder thank you for responding to my question. I'm going to try your Technique, I used to repair skis also with P Tex back in the 90's

Dont those old towns have lifetime hull warranty? Call them and they can at least send you a color match rod you can plastic weld on in some fashion or cut a hole for rod holders or something and use that. You may be able to steal some from the inner area of the cockpit lip or seat too

not good if the scratch goes all the way through

LOL....

I dont think a hot glue gun would work.

@@FishFinder Hmmm... Should be so much easier if you can use it with a hot glue gun or something like.

@@ejwnd Definitely, I don't see what the difference is other than a flame. Thanks for your comment

exactly...

I was just gunna say so its Ptex

Dave... yes absolutely! I am working on that video soon.

They are plastic. I talked about that in the video. There is also a link in the description to where you can find them

No, these are plastic, not glue sticks

yes.. absolutely it stays

Do you think there is a way to build up or actually attach a piece of this same material then mold it? I want to increase the bow leading edge. I want to attach a skeg mount. I wonder if milk container would work using a propane torch.

This has been holding for a few years

patrick. +1 Kayak,hdpe; milk jug,hdpe; tarp,hdpe; these candles, low density. use same materials for best repair, and proper heat. Preheat area to be repaired also. Too much heat = brittle. Not enough heat = poor bond. Black is soot = carbon, you don't want that but it did scrape off. Very good video and repair. That low density poly will work just fine, and I like the way it is applied. but hdpe is everywhere and free. Plus it would make a stronger repair. Thanks for the vid.

It has never come off...

It is not wax. It is plastic. I have been using it for decades and it lasts. Maybe you should try it yourself before trying to make an eye ball evaluation from a video

it lasts virtually forever

@@FishFinder great to know! I do kayak restorations and upgrades as a hobby, I do record and post my many different methods of repairs.

the best thing about all of this is you can use whatever you want! As long as it works for you. Too many people get bent out of shape on youtube about what they believe is to be 100% correct. Let me know how the PVC works for you... i am interested

I dont think a glue gun will get hot enough

The stuff can be found in the link in the description. If you are getting water in side, you obviously have a leak somewhere. Not sure how to tell you how to find it.

It is not too soft. It hardens like plastic.

The ones in the link that I have in the description?

I just checked and yes it says no longer available. I found other ones and changed the links in the description.

Thanks so much for the help!

At least you followed up on the statement, & corrected it, ... good job, ... & kudos!

Plastic P-tex

it probably isnt durable for preventing future scratches, but it definitely made the bottom smoother

it is the same stuff that is used on the bottom of skiis. They are running on surfaces much harder than water. So far, the stuff I used is still holding up like the day it was applied

Bill, that is NOT hot glue. I am using plastic and melting it into the scratches.

Bill Ghorban you should really learn how to spell

these are not glue