I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. Glad the video was helpful, thanks for the kind words.

Glad you found the video helpful, thanks for sharing.

Thanks again. The job was a lot more difficult than I made it look.

I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. I am glad the video was helpful. Thanks for taking the time to place a comment and thanks for watching my channel.

Thanks Philip, it was more than a little difficult to get in there with the camera and have room to work. I wasn't sure how the video would turn out. However I have been getting a lot of kind responses like yours.

Thank you for watching the video. I am glad you found it and found it helpful.

Thanks for the kind words. I am glad you found my channel.

@@richardspaulding5035 that's cool trick with the bolt and air hammer, i've never heard about it before. do you know any tricks on how to detach wheel hub when doing press-in wheel bearings if i don't have slide hammer/special puller?

@@FierceFurious Thanks, I own a slide hammer however it seldom works on a hub that is really stuck. When replacing a press in type bearing you need to break it apart to remove the hub. What will happen is the inner part of the bearing will remain on the hub (It is called the race) you will need an air hammer or a special puller to separate the race from the hub. Don’t worry if you don’t have a way of separating the two. You can simply purchase a new hub along with the bearing. I am going to link a video I made some years ago showing this procedure. The difference being that I did this job on my bench with the steering knuckle removed from the car. You can do this job on the car, however. As you must be aware you have to unbolt the lower ball joint to slip the axle out of the hub. Once the axle is out temporarily reconnect the ball joint for support. Then you can break apart the old bearing the same way I showed in the video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hMxkmpqot5i0fKc.html Let me know how you make out.

Thanks, If I have my way, I have retired from working on Jeeps. They get too rusty as you could see on the video. They run them off road through swamps and on the beaches. They are a nightmare to work on.

Thanks Jorge, camera positioning was difficult throughout the job. I am glad you enjoyed the video.

Thanks for watching it Joe

In a recent comment I was criticized for putting anti seize on the hub bolts. I saw no harm as I torqued them to spec. I was trying to make it easier for the next guy given that they were so difficult to remove. The viewer suggested it would have been better to let them rust in place so that they would be less likely to work their way out. I just wanted to put that out there as you can make up your own mind. I am glad the video was helpful, thanks for watching.

Anti seize is always best to use in assy. I built military vehicles for 16 years and they use a lot of anti seize. You made a great video. There's always going to be someone out there that wants to cry about something. Thanks again.

@@darceedarcee Thanks, I guess it is the nature of going public. The overwhelming majority of comments like yours are very positive. However, every once and a while I do get what I call a hater.

let me know how the gob went.

@@richardspaulding5035 All done! Hardest part was breaking axle nut loose. Thought I might break my breaker! 😮

@@heinousanus9352 Thanks for getting back to me. I have been there many times thinking I might snap one of my breakers. Have not broken one yet.

I noticed while replacing the bearing in the video it had been previously replaced. Quite possibly it may be related to the lack of quality in the aftermarket parts.

​@@richardspaulding5035The originals in my wife's 2014 went bad before 50,000 miles and the throttle body has failed twice.

Thanks; Most all my time these past few weeks have been devoted to getting that Chevy S10 project done and off my mind. I WILL NEVER GET INVOLVED IN SOMTHING LIKE THAT AGAIN. good to hear from you once again.

Yes, you might as well replace the bearing at that point as they come with the sensor installed.

I had a Nissan that was hesitating at stop signs and in stop and go traffic. I knew there was something wrong, but I was not getting any codes. Eventually the car left me stranded on the side of the road however when it did it finally gave me a code. It turned out to be the cam sensor. Evidently it would not offer a code until it failed completely. I am not saying that it is your cam sensor, but it may be a similar situation with a component on its way out. I know many of my viewers would rather face a root canal then take their cars to a repair shop, however a shop can hook the car up to a scan tool that has the ability to monitor the cars performance as it drives.

thanks to you for watching

Simple, remove the wheel, poke out the center cap, put the wheel back on, snug the lug nuts, lower the jack , tighten the lug nuts, chuck the wheels with something so they cannot move. Then you should be able to crack the nut with a socket and breaker bar. Keep in touch

Is it the shoes or the cables you are trying to replace?

Thanks for the kind words and the tip. By all means don't be a stranger.

In my case it was not necessary to remove the cable, so I did not pay attention to it. it would most likely have 3 prongs that need to be compressed to fit thru the hole or have a spring clip that must be pulled. Sorry I cannot be of more help.

LOL, I don't think you want to let it get quite that far.

Yes by all means, power tools are just a time saver

@@richardspaulding5035 How do I lock the rear wheel so that I can take the axle nut off? I put the parking brake on but I don't want to damage it....

I remember hearing that name as a young mechanic in the 1970s. I never tried it but from what I was told it was a homemade concoction of 50% ATF and 50% Acitone.

@@richardspaulding5035 thanks for you service by the way....

I still don't see it

I have pretty much retired from working on a Jeep vehicles. These guys drive them everywhere in all offroad conditions. As a result, they get extremely rusty, so much so I don’t want to touch them anymore.

If you plan on doing your own repairs, it might be worth investing in some of the tools in the video. This repair would likely cost several hundred dollars at a repair shop, possibly $1000 or more for both sides. That money would go a long way toward setting yourself up with the necessary tools. Thats how I justify it, if I need a special tool for a repair often times the tool is far cheaper than paying a repair shop. Thanks for watching and your comment.

Harbor Freight 1/2" ratchet, get a pack of ratchet extensions for 1/2", get a 32mm socket, 10mm socket, 17mm socket, needle nose pliers, tire iron, hammers, penetrating spray, 3 ton jack, jack stands, wheel chock for safety, safety glasses

It is how they are used for the most part, beaches, mud trails, snow etc. I am about ready to start turning Jeeps away LOL.

I think it is because the way Jeeps are abused. These guys drive them in all types of environments like trails with mud and on beaches. As a result, I have since retired from working on them. LOL

@@richardspaulding5035 this Jeep never goes off pavement and is driven carefully, just crap parts.

@@HypocriticYT I have been a Chrysler guy for a number of years, but I must admit my beloved ram has been nickel and diming me to death lately. lol

@@richardspaulding5035 My Ram 1500 has too and is in the rust stages. Wheel bearings, alternator, blower resistor, seat cushion, wheels rusted and leaked so I bought alloys. Brake callipers etc. I cross my fingers.

​@@richardspaulding5035Both of ours are family cars. Neither my wife's 2014 or my 2016 have ever been off-road, nor driven through deep water. I never had to replace a bearing assembly on my 1988 Taurus and Caravan, and replaced the fronts on my 1993 Dakota as part of a front end rebuild at 100K miles.