I am sure there are plenty of your viewers that could keep up with this video. I was lost once the schematic came out. Appreciate your expertise.

Nice job! Replacing the entire can is a lot easier vs. the terminal strip method. The aesthetics on those Macs were ahead of their time.

Good job. BUT ! would it not be a good idea to remove the valves before drilling out the rivets.

Advice is to add some text on the caps to note that they are replaced, like: "R: 2023". It is otherwise hard to see, because it is a good job from you and the cap manufacturer.

This is exactly the kind of video I will need to watch again...and probably again...before tackling a Pioneer SX-82E revision. This one will not be for the faint of heart...I probably will not get to this until after fully revising at least three other late 70's era solid state receivers I have around the man cave. The SX-82E is fully functional and in a minty looking state...but the caps (mostly paper caps, I imagine) are ancient. I will not run it again, until FIRST doing the necessary recapping! I've seen too many pictures of charred 60's tube amps to try that around my home.

The fun with replacing capacitors in this old gear is that you pay several orders of magnitude on replacement capacitors than whatever you paid on the old stuff.

Thanks for the great instructional video. Your step by step instructions were extremely helpful. I learned a lot. 👍😊

Thanks Mr. AH-Fix-It! I have improved.👍

Nice work Aidan👍👍 That old MAC is worth restoring for sure, I almost freaked when you flipped it over without pulling the tubes😮 Maybe you did and I just couldn't see it on the video. Great explanation on choosing the filter can capacitors and the "fix" portion, well done. Thanks for the video, see ya next time.

The Mac 1500 is a nice unit, similar to a Fisher 500C and uses the same 7591 output tube types. The McIntosh multiplex circuit is a bit better than the Fisher in my opinion. You do good work! I just finished replacing can electrolytics in a Mac 1700, which has the same FM front end and a similar but better IF strip and identical MPX circuitry. The 1700 has four 2N3055 output transistors for 40W per channel. I rebuilt the existing electrolytics by removing their internal parts and installing new ones inside the cans. It is a lot more work, but I wanted to keep the appearance original. Your approach is easier and the overall appearance is not changed much. The Mac 1700 had two 4000uFd@ 50VDC electrolytics and I used two 2200uFd@50VDC in parallel for 4400uFc@j50VDC in each can. One output transistor was shorted and I replaced all four with new 2N3055 from Mouser. Antique Electronics is a good source for many parts. Have fun!

A video l've been waiting for!

Thankyou, I have learned a lot!

I have had a MAC1500 on the shelf for years. I went through it and replaced what was needed excepted the cans. I brought it up on a variac and everything works beautifully (except the stereo indicator). Your video inspires me to go ahead and replace the electrolytics $$$. Please list the AE part numbers you used.

awesome videos, man...i just subscribed to your channel and have been binge watching...thank you!

great video

Professionals don't often use CE (or Hayseed) can capacitors (depending on factors like quality of the amplifier and cost and time of work involved). Firstly, you can control the quality and kind of components used if you work with discrete electrolytics. Secondly, sometimes, you WANT to keep the vintage can capacitors in place-for instance, vintage Leak amplifiers often have gold or champagne-colored cans. Replacing with CE or Hayseed would both devalue the vintage amp tremendously, and also make it mismatched and ugly. Finally, using discrete electrolytics and not replacing the vintage can with a modern copy uses minimal intervention and follows the general principle of reversibility. I'm guessing you didn't have the time or desire to do that quality of work on your Bogen, but that doesn't mean that it can't be done. You absolutely CAN do a tidy, organized job using discrete electrolytics under the chassis!

I am a newb, on that schematic, how is it that the centre tapped part of that AC transformer is providing voltage to that capacitor section you're working on?

Is there anything you can't fix? Dropping a V8 into a Jaguar or fixing antique audio. Great work!

The resistors are actually part of the filtering circuit to remove AC ripple from the DC. This ripple, if not filtered out, will cause the amplifier to hum at 60 HZ. There are several filter configurations, the cheapest being RC (a combination of resistors and capacitors). The resistors also function as bleeders which discharge the capacitors when power is turned off. That's why you did not measure any voltage with the receiver turned off. The resistors bled off the residual DV voltage (a safety built into the filter). I would not look at the resistors as a means to drop the voltage but rather to filter out the ripple. The resistors do in fact reduce the voltage but that is not the reason for them in the circuit. Also I think you can do much better on the price of multi-section can electrolytics than your recommendation. There are many suppliers charging almost half of those prices shown in your video.

You were gone so long I though the FBI finally caught you.

I'm so glad we don't have to deal with this multi-section cap nonsense, anymore... 😅

Personally, I don't like to undervolt electrolytics by that much...A 500V electrolytic won't "form" properly if it only ever sees 100V, which could cut down on the life expectancy of the cap. My EE prof made a teaching point of that back in the day...If you're gonna do a bit of chassis soldering, you're gonna need a bigger iron...!

Ohm's Law for capacitors?

Capacitors should never be riveted on.

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