Mod MINI hello Can this be the same process for removing it from an r53 manual transmission mini copper S ?

Christopher Gale Glad the videos have been helpful!

Chris Gale Ucci. 3000

Just coolant, but oil from the filter and cylinder head galleries will spill everywhere when the housing is removed. But no need to drain engine oil.

I'm doing almost the exact same right now. Started with a bad water pump, now it's supercharger service, oil cooler replacement, new hoses, new thermostat and coolant temperature sensor. @modmini is saving me some serious cash right now!

Nice tip

Sounds like you could make a whole video on making the apparatus tool flexyracer. I'd watch it.

I just did this job and had a hell of a job aligning the unit into the block all while trying to thread in the bolts. It was a huge PITA. Completed the job to only notice it continue to leak because the gasket misaligned and mushroomed out. Now I have to do it again. I'll have to try this.

Great tip!

+John Patton Yup super easy if you remove either the axle or the exhaust manifold. If you have small hands, you can work through the exhaust manifold using various length socket extensions, but if you know how to pull an axle that is the less frustrating way.

Yue Fan Hello - Yes, that works. Unless you are replacing the hoses, there is no need to separate the housing from the hoses. Just back it off and let it hang there.

***** Words of experience haha. Though, I ended up taking the cooler off, too, to help better seal it to the oil filter housing with some Permatex The Right Stuff since those oil seals were very brittle also.

Jacob Brown It can be done any time. It only leaks a small amount of oil.

After doing a few times, it's easiest if you remove either right axle or the exhaust manifold.

John Milne was yours an S model? How was the oil filter housing gasket replacement for that? Enough room to get to it on the S model?

Mike Spenard Thanks for the tips. Cleaning the block surface - yes, but how would you resurface it without pulling the block? I quick spray with some brake cleaner and maybe going over with a scraper should be more than sufficient for an oil sealing surface.

***** Some 800 grit and a small sanding block. Then flush the whole thing off with carb cleaner. Same with the flat surface on the cooler that mates with O-rings (don't trust the manufacturing process to leave it nick free). Also, you'll want to order those 2 hoses with the MCS. Mine were either RTVd on or melted to the metal tubes because it ran hot (clogged cooler); not entirely sure; so be prepared to cut them off.

***** Also, the whole thing fits thru the pass side wheel well. If you pre-assemble it with the gasket I suggest wrapping that surface in a mech wipe (tape it on) before you pass it thru that arch again. Otherwise it'll get nicked or dirty.

I see you did more than our friend, moodmini. I have to replace my oil filter housing after breaking the drain back plug. My mini is an 04 R53 manual. What are the extra steps to remove? Please respond. It's 10° F if I'm lucky and have to do it outside sooner rather than later.

Ghassan Kharbat I don't know. I think the heater core hoses are used to warm/cool the transmission fluid instead of engine fluid.

I was wondering the same thing. Were you able to get the whole housing out? I just purchased a whole new housing and would like to replace the whole thing. Thanks

@@BoulderMountainGuiding Haven't tried yet, but I took a look this past weekend, and I don't think there is enough clearance. That being said, you may be able to get it out from the wheel well on passenger side. It not, likely will have to drop the subframe. Mod MINI has that laid out in his clutch replacement video.

@@NotOfThisWolrd bummer, I just dropped the sub frame last week and replace the clutch and oil pan. I knew I should’ve just changed it then and there.

I will make one someday. You have to remove the (turbo) downpipe.

Mod MINI thank you! Mine is non turbo... do I still need to remove the down pipe. I would like to remove as little as humanly possible. Wishful thinking😜 thank you for the videos, they are the best on KZfaq 💙

I think only water should leak from there and not oil

The square section o-rings would leak oil if they leak, not coolant. Coolant is self-contained within the little heat exchanger. It flows in and flows back out after passing over the fins, just like a radiator. I have never seen those ones leak, it's always been the one I change in the video. Not a bad idea to replace those ones as well. If coolant is leaking, it would be because you have a pinhole leak in the aluminum or a bad hose.

I learned a new word in Spanish :)

+Norman Perez Inner ball joint requires removing axles or removing the subframe.

Frank Nativi Oil filter housing does not require draining the oil. I think the oil cooler part is the same for all R53 manual shift, but if you are worried, check pelicanparts.com for the right part for your car. I know the gasket itself is the same for all R50 and R53.

***** Successfully completed the job myself yesterday. I check today and there is no more oil leaking from the housing. Also Thanks to you I find out that the power steering pump on my car had an extended warranty. I called my local dealer and he said he will replace the pump and the cooling fan at no charge! You saved me at least 2k right there. Question, my car only has the first heatshield that goes on top of the exhaust manyfold. The one that does on the oil filter housing is missing (underneat the exhaust manyfold). Ive been looking for it online but no luck. Where can I find it? Thank you so much for making these videos and have nice day.

@@franknativi try a junkyard bud. Or someone that parts out minis on fb marketplace

+Jeff Dixon It does not. On that car the housing is on the front. Car needs to put into front end service mode to replace.

+Mod MINI So does that mean that it's a lot more difficult on a 2010 Clubman?

+Chuck Ware I don't have experience with the engine in the 2010 cars but if it's anything like the 2007-2009, then yes, it is a bit harder. Car definitely needs to be in front end service mode to have enough room.

Elaborate on "front end service mode" What does that require? I know the service department mentioned that you have to almost remove the front end

+Chuck Ware That is exactly what it means. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/isVyftmfqraufoU.html

emmel07 You just need to replace the gaskets unless there is some corrosion that caused the cooler to corrode, which the dealer would not be able to tell from the outside. There are two o-rings that may need replacing as well. You'd need two of these. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009H8NSSW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009H8NSSW&linkCode=as2&tag=mimlif-20

emmel07 I have a 2012 Mini Cooper S and my housing unit is leaking. The price they quoted me was 1,837 dollars. Because I've been a "loyal" customer, they brought it down to 787 dollars. Yikes. I don't know anything about fixing cars so my options are pretty low.

+BigSteveRealtor Pressure sensor is easy, just put a wrench over the end and loosen and replace, it's just like a pipe fitting. Put sealant on the threads.

+BigSteveRealtor Yes.

Joshua Velazquez Probably a bad wheel speed sensor. You'll need dealer software or an some electronics testing tools to figure out which one.

Ill make shure to check them out thanks for the help man 👌🏽 apriciate it

sure that might help

Probably will need to remove an axle or the exhaust manifold to get it out of there.

No.

It really depends on your skill level. Minimum 1 hour I would guess unless you are very familiar with the car.

Victor Oliveira The latch probably needs a good oiling. What it from the outside with the palm of your hand while trying to open it and it should move enough to get the door open. I had the same question about a month ago and this worked.

I'll give it a shot thanks, I appreciate it.

All the advice is in the video. To get more room, remove the exhaust manifold or passenger axle. Exhaust manifold is probably less risky/requires less tools.

***** I have never worked on a RHD R53, but suspect there is enough room even with the steering assembly.

***** Today (28th April 2015) I took the plunge and changed the whole oil filter housing with cooler-what a job! took inner plastic wheel arch off, and gained enough access through the gap over the drive shaft, squeezing it passed the disconnected coolant hoses. Disconnected the stabiliser arm to allow just a little more access in the end. Tough cookie getting the bolts as going in blind on the bolt hidden near the oil pressure switch as the heat shield (RHD) was a pitta to move around and hold a socket wrench. Your video and advice was the right motivation and I did it.....would I do that job again, may be just the gasket next time. Wish you well and big gratitude to your videos..

***** Good on you - because of the need to work blind, this is one of the more challenging repairs.

Hi, excellent series of videos and if I hadn't see you do the housing here i probably wouldn't have tried it. For anyone else working out how to remove the housing from a manual cooper S - with the oil cooler on the housing - there is even less room to work with but it is do-able. If you remove the coil pack and then the exhaust manifold bolts from the back of the engine and lift the manifold up slightly (there is flex in the exhaust flexi) you can actually see the bottom two bolts and get to all three bolts holding the housing from the top with a socket - without needing to work completely blind from the bottom. It also makes a bit more room to get your hands in there to reattach things. The manifold is only 8 bolts and they aren't too difficult to get to. When the manifold is disconnected take the the top heat shield completely out through the top of the engine bay. I removed the header tank just because it looked like it would be in the way - but I don't think it made any difference (and it's only one bolt and two clips on the standard header - and i could clean that out at the same time) Remove the oil filter and cap cover to make a bit more room. You can then pull the manifold up and across slightly, and can then see the two bolts and get a hand / socket down onto them. You can feel / get a deep socket onto the bolt through the middle of the housing & then the housing is off. I used a 1/4 inch ratchet with a 13mm deep socket as it was small enough to turn past the various bits of housing in the way. Also absolutely buy a set of hose clip pliers if you haven't already got some. The hoses are an absolute pain to get to. the clips had been put on in the most awkward angles. I fiddled about with needle pliers and plumbers wrenches for ages but a standard hose plier made it a relative doddle to get off. There is (just) enough room to get the housing with the cooler still attached out through the wheel arch - with the wheel and cover off - without removing anything else. Given that it does come out in one go it must be possible to get it back in as a single lump but because i had new bits and seals to assemble I did this in situ behind the engine. I got the housing back in through the side, then started putting the cooler housing back on while I could still get to / move the housing around. Whoever had worked on my old housing had stripped the threads on the cooler bolts - so I was very careful to get them lined up / taking nicely. You can see / line up the housing from the top and get the bolts started. Use the hose pliers to get the hose clips back on. It is also easy to get to the timing tensioner from the top when the oil cooler is out of the way completely - and peace of mind knowing that's also done doesn't hurt. Charles.

Removing subframe would be overkill for this job.

***** People break that spring/valve sometimes. Replace the housing and you should be OK. I haven't seen this personally but I hear it happens from time to time.

***** here is a useful link/cut and paste to assist others with knowledge of the oil filter housing cap types/filter types. Thanks to New Mini Mania new.minimania.com/MINI__02_04__Oil_Filter_Confusion___Problem___Hints

***** Thanks for the link. The oil filter housing and the fuel filter are different for some of the early 2002 cars.

Basically the same except no oil cooler so a little easier.

Same for all except early 2002 or earlier in Europe

Thank you!!! Greetings from Chile!

They have thread locker. Need to use impact to get them to turn. (Impact gun or hit end of a socket handle with a hammer

I believe you have to replace the whole thing. It's better to upgrade anyway to be able to use the more readily available internally caged filters.

Take out the exhaust or passenger axle to get enough room to get whole thing out.

Mod MINI I got it by taking out lower motor mount and I had to remove oil sensor and dropped it down from the top. Waiting for two coolant hoses that go to filter to come tomorrow and I should be good to go. Thanks for all your videos. Oh I did the ac coil today also fingers crossed on all this.

very very early cars (mostly in UK) had the old style housing.

Probably need to remove an axle, that's probably easiest.

Hi, I just replace the gasket last night, and I would like to provide more information about it. The oil housing can be remove from the car easily, and it is also a good time for oil pressure switch replacement as well. Besides that, for the right hand side drive vehicle like mine, it is impossible to use the extension wrench from the drive, but two bolts can be easily reached by removing the steering oil cooling fan. One more thing is the shape of the gasket, since there are two type gasket in the market and I bought both for replacement. For the new oil canister where there in no spring and cage in the canister, the shape of the gasket is the same with the one shown in your video. And I guest another shape gasket is for the oil canister with spring and cage.

+Juan Valencia Solvent and a bristle brush. The inside doesn't really need cleaning.

Drain plug is on the back side of the oil pan so either...

You may have damaged the bypass/drain valve inside the oil filter housing. If you can't repair it, you need to replace the entire housing. Get this fixed as you are running the car with lower than required oil pressure for safe engine operation.