Good video I just bought a new bracket after watching your video. Thank you!

Thank very much. You are the only person to show us to take the racket with the axe. It makes the work much easier

Great video, I did one on a 96 long time ago and it turned into a big ordeal haha Now our 2009 needs axles, cut-off wheel ready. Thanks for the vid!

This is the easiest way to remove this axle. Remove bottom locking bolt and retainer clip. Spray with lots of pb blaster. Now drive it for a day as is. The vibration loosens rust and mine slid right out. Heat, and vibration made it simple and quick. You know it's ready when the sound gets louder on excelleration. Vehicle was solid at 350k. .

Thanks man, none of the other videos that I've watched recommend removing the housing. I have greased , beat , pulled, heated and prayed all of which was unsuccessful trying to get my right axle off of my 97 Avalon . I did talk with a mechanic who informed me that this method would have to be used prior to watching your video but I now see exactly how to go about removing that stubborn M@##$$ F@$$$ .

Great video. Tip for the V6 owners out there, you cannot do this with the V6 car, as it has the rear engine mount integrated into the axle bearing carrier. The biggest problem with the damn thing is that you can't get any sort of good angle to hammer the axle bearing out of the carrier. So do what I did. Take an electric grinder and cut a one foot section or so out of the axle shaft just on the differential side of the bearing, and then near the differential entry point. That gives you the clearance to get a 4 pound sledgehammer in there to bang directly outward on the axle stub. And then clean and polish the inner race of the axle shaft carrier and put antiseize on the bearing of the new axle before you reinstall.

Great video this helped me a lot and I got the job done! Thank you sir

I've got a 03 Lexus that has the same CV axle that gave me the exact same problem!!! It's on way to getting fixed now!!! Thank you brother!!!😄😄😄😄😄😄😄

Good info helped me do my Pontiac vibe

EXCELLENT VID! But, you’re only one of the vid I seen shows bolting the bearing bracket/pedestal in FIRST. I’m a DIY guy so the other 3 vids show guys wrestling it in. Misleading! I was losing it. I spoke to the owner of CV Axle Express in SLC UT USA. He said put in carrier bearing first. AND, like you said- same for me- went in like butter. And I got an OEM rebuild lifetime warranty from the same guy $80. Great vid, I’m subscribed, thanks a ton.

Awesome thanks for your help 👍

Im working on a 2008 Dodge caliber rt front passenger side and I've got everything tore down except for the CV axle. I've changed quiet a few axles but none that go into a bracket and then another axle that goes into the transmission

Do not cut the shaft. Remove bracket with axle. Place the end of the shaft against the concrete and apply light hammer blows to alternating sides of the bearing bracket. The reason it is not coming out for RB is because he is holding it and his hand is absorbing the impact of the blows. Is it best to use a piece of aluminum or brass hammer to avoid damaging the bearing bracket. I just changed this on a 2003 Toyota Camry last night and it took about 40 minutes from start to finish. Also of note, using some emery cloth to clean the inside of the bearing would be far better than the die grinder with flapper wheel. It is meant to be a tight fit. I installed the bearing bracket on the new axle before install (same method) as it is easier to verify it is fully seated. Another helpful hint, if you are doing this on the ground like I was and you jack up and put only the right side on a jack stand, you don't have to drain the transmission. The fluid will not run out when replacing the RH axle. Happy building folks.

Great vid. Already spent last weekend trying to hammer it out of the bearing sleeve. Doing kids 1998 Camry. Going to have to use engine hoist to hold engine up since the bracket is part of the engine rear mount. Who the hell thought that design was any good.

Now I know what I'm in for. Thanks 😊

On my 1999 Camry I use pb blaster for a couple of days and then an acetylene torch and heat untill you just see the begining of red. If you're careful you won't damage anything. After you heat it quickly go to a 5 lb slide hammer with the special fork end piece that is available. I don't disconnect the lower ball joint either (saves time). It should pop out with a couple of hammers. Finally and most important polish well with sandpaper/emery cloth and coat the inner bracket and bearing with AquaLube before reassembly. Its amazing sticky stuff. When you put it on shock threads for ten years the nut comes off just like day one. Get some and use it on everything.

PICKLE FORK FOR THE WIN :If you are a DIY and dont have a lift this may work for you. I recently got this job done by using a pickle fork between the housing and the bracket. Then hammer the pickle fork handle toward drivers side. This successfully broke the bearing free of the bracket. Then it was easy to finish the job using the hammer pulley, but i could have just used a hammer and chisel to finish the job since the bearing was loosened by the fork. The hammer pulley did not work by itself until the pickle fork broke the bearing free. This done for a 2002 v6 model the bearing would not move until I used the pickle fork. No cutting or bracket removal was needed.

Thank you for your teaching experience

Im from jersey and needed to do this to drive home for the Holidays! I'm bringing my 20 ton press so I can do control arm bushings, bearings so on. 7:50 STORY OF MY LIFE (Fluid leaked on top of me) hahaha My axle was loose on the gearbox side & had play in it after replacing the axle. Is my differential shot? After doing this with a 20 ton press. Its super impressive you got that bearing carry out with a freakin HAMMER! God bless you

Ok what is the long rod that goes from the bracket into the transmission called? Because when I'm ordering parts it don't show that it only shows the cv axle going from the knuckle to the bracket

Have you tried a pickle fork? It took mine out in seconds from my Scion Tc. Used the angled tip one, not the solid blocked one

GRACIAS! yo me compre un civic 2011 y cuando fuy a cambiar a el passenger side eso es lo q encontre gracias amigo!

I could not get my axle to slide in all the way and saw you just ram it like that 😂 thanks bud

Was there not a keeper ring a bolt or anything on the end that goes into the transmission?

Great job Sir thank you, i have a question do i need to replace the axle shaft seal that goes in the transmission? just to be in a safe spot.

Although cutting the passenger-side CV axle is a great idea, I believe a straight die grinder is the wrong tool because it does not allow one to cut the axle where it really needs to be cut: flush behind the tulip (the tripod housing), the structure which inhibit access to one of the bracket’s fasteners. Accordingly, the proper tool to use is a Sawzall employing a “Lenox Thick Metal 6-in. Lazer CT Carbide Tip (6108RCT)" or "Diablo Steel Demon 6-in. Thick Metal Carbide Teeth (DS0608CF)" blade. As you cut, turn the axle and traverse toward the center like the phonographic needle on a record player. To begin, drench the blade with cutting oil and when the sparks fly, drench it again and again. So cutting the CV axle on both sides of the bracket, allows one to easily and quickly remove it in three parts. First, remove the outboard section. Second, remove the bracket’s fasteners and then remove the carrier bearing bracket along with its portion of the CV axle. Finally, remove the inboard (or transmission) portion. Now the only task remaining is to salvage the carrier bearing bracket by pounding-out the small remnant of the CV axle held within.

Great video very safe. You should put eyes in sparks

Good video. I just went thru this W/a 2014 Scion TC. Forget about trying to separate the brg from the bracket, on the car. And when you loosened the 3 14 mm bolts holding the bracket to the eng.,, it practically fell off the dowels. And only took a few whacks to pull the axle out. I had to beat on mine for an hour, B4 it would unlodge. And it "was" off the dowels. When I separated the 2 brackets holding the brg, (on the floor), I thought re-assy would be so much easier. It wasn't. It's a nasty job, and he deserves his money.

Does the support bearing ever go bad before the axle bearings? My axle boots look good but I am afraid the support bearing in the bracket might go bad first.

Thank you bro

I just did one last week on my buddy car a 2007 Camry and i used a 2x4 wood and hit it on the bearing support after i took off the bolts and hit the axel and it came right off with the support and then took off the retainer and then i Used a A Malet but the rubber one and sprayed some B-12 Oil to penetrate and then i hit the ears where the bolt goes thru of that support and it came off did take a couple of hits but it came off and then i put the new one and also the one on the driver side as well and when i put it on i went ahead and put the axl back into the transmission and then bolted down the support and was done and that's how I did it ..

I replaced this same axle a year ago with a Cardone remanufactured axle. I’m getting ready to do it again because the bearing went bad. Should I buy a new Toyota axle this time? I don’t want to do it again!!

Damn son just install a new bracket after all that lol

Just took the whole goddamn thing out and bought a new bracket for $50 bucks at oreilly before I hurt myself getting it off.

I have an 03 and won't be looking forward to removing that bearing bracket if I do it myself. I think I'd probably spend the extra 50-100 for a new bearing bracket. I see the half shaft listed at 75-100 plus the bearing bracket and I'd expect to spend a couple hundred on parts. I think I'd try to get some antiseize on the retainer spring clip as well as put it all over that bearing bracket realizing that the antiseize will probably not do a whole lot but worth a try.

Very well done

crazy bro, no safety glass, big respect

How do you know when it's time to replace this part?

Solvent, heat and a vice are NOT really optional for this procedure, unless you enjoy pissing yourself off and wasting time (never know). Spraying solvent the day prior helps but I personally remove that "useless" 14mm bolt that is not useless and fill the bolt hole with grease, then thread the bolt back into the hole and tighten it down forcing the grease under high pressure into the housing. After forcing the grease in you can apply some moderate heat to the housing and start hitting the CV housing outward while it is still bolted in the vehicle...or (better method) you can just remove the axle and bearing carrier and walk over to the vice and work on it there. After the bearing comes out, clean up the bearing housing and apply anti-seize to the bearing and housing, then button it all back up. You're welcome

I just did a 1989 Camry passenger CV Axle, got retainer out & 14mm bolt, Axle came out of Bracket with a few Good Smacks🤙 But, had problem installing Rebuilt Axle🤔 I greased the bearing, but The Bearing was not sliding into bracket properly 😢 Had to remove inner joint Boot & Tap Axle, to get Bearing in place, but now Bearing is Damaged🤬🤬 Since you Removed Axle & bearing bracket from vehicle, Why can't you install new Axle and bearing into bracket with retainer, then install into vehicle??? I'm trying it with my replacement part ☺️

I've had tremendous results by using out that bolt on the bottom on the carrier bracket and drilling a hole into the bearing race then using a punch to break the race and it'll come right out of the carrier bracket

that 14 mm bolt in the carrier housing should serve as some sort of "set screw" to keep the outer race from ever spinning. when you tighten a set screw you should tighten it once, back it off and then tighten it again no torque spec imo

Did you try the hammer puller that works easylly.

I say use a slide hammer and the the c part that holds it and you will probably be able to get it. It's the fact you are hitting it on one side if you can get it equally on both sides it comes out better. Or use the tuning forks made for pulling cv axles. Haven't used them but heard they work. Might try it next time. All parts can be rented from Autozone. Far as the c part it doesn't fit I had to cut mine wider to fit onto the cv axle. Worst case do this. Or if you got money and don't care buy a new one from Toyota for 200+ but sure most people won't do that. That passenger side is always trouble sadly

I might just buy the bracket just in case mine don't come out. But I've been drenching it with rust penetrant for a while now.

If your reading this don’t try to use one of the other 3 bolts to break the race, the bolt will break off inside

It's tuff...I've yet to remove the pin...he even harder getting a hold of the 14mm holding the carrier tucked behind the cup😅😅😅 its day 2

Im a toyota tech in the rust belt and we ALWAYS change the braket with the rhd axle. I honestly didn't even know it was possible to remove that bearing without breaking it lol

Title is wrong. It's the "RHS" axle.

If it’s not leaking.. drive it til it breaks. Luckily this part doesn’t go bad on them often but when they do.. add an hour at least to your estimate. You can also just buy another carrier/bracket. It’s not that much more even from the dealer. At advance the bracket is 87$ for a dorman or 93$ at Toyota. It just makes this a lot easier… you might just save money and aching joints going this route!

Mine has 2 retaining clips on it and i think a lot of people don't see the second one

Would penetrating oil help?

In a lexus es330 that bolt from the bottom of the bracket is behind the axle, so you dont have any room to remove it

My axle covers the bottom bolt of the bracket 🧐 such a pain

I can't believe your not wearing safety goggles while cutting that

You've got more patience than me.

The best 70-100 dollar you can spend is to get a new bracket before this job, and Dremel cut the old bracket (make a cut to the width of the bracket where the bearing sit), literally 5 min and that bearing will be out. This is what I learned after spending 3 days hammering , using slide hammer, heat , unable to cut the old cv using sawzall, all of it) . Just go get a new bracket and cut old one off. You will spend same money on material and frustration and on time trying to get this out any other way.

Have you seen the Vibration with an Air Hammer Technique? The idea is that when an air hammer -- with a blunt tip -- is used to VIBRATE the carrier -- not the axle, not the bearing -- perpendicular to the axis of the axle shaft -- it causes the rust to break down -- and then the axle w/bearing just 'walks' out. No prying is used at all. (!) Yes, the 14mm bolt and snap ring are removed, first, obviously. Google cv axle toyota sienna 2015 (tech-vet) for a video that astounds.

Can l go 30 days before l fix the right side

Nice job ,Where is your shop located?

Why not just by a bearing cradle too? Save alot of time and stress

Made me laugh thanks

That's a good idea just to have a new carrier bearing on hand they don't come out in the rust belt.

Maybe add rust penetrate,could help

Flammable chemical boxes on the left...dude😂🤦‍♂️....

Hi... how much you charge to do this job please?

How did you REMOVE the retainer ●

Please wear safety shield

Doing my sianna now and i was thinking to remove the bracket exactly as u did, ok removed the 3screws from bracket but it only moved a bit then gets stuck on the metal there is no other way just by cutting axle, thats what i will be doing, god willing, ok cut it ,but was impossible to take out the broken axle from the carrier bracket, until i broke the thin metal ring with a flat screwdriver and hammer until discovered the balls, then moved all balls to other side away from screw hole on side of bracket, then forced a long screw in there until it broke the ring then knocked a flat screw driver by crack and got it all out, can tell you all that this is the only way possible, anyone telling u that he knocked it out under the car,is probably a giant lier, this was on a 2008 sianna

Spent ten hours on my seized axle. Should have just cut in half

Identical for 2015 RAV4. I wish I saw your video sooner. I got hung at the bearing mount alignment pins. You took a crowbar to it…I could not figure it out so I paid a mobile mechanic to come figure it out. I sent him on his way once the axle with mount were off the vehicle. Toyota is evil any FYI, check out the unavailable space under a RAV4 to manage the repair you showed… no room.

This is on right side(passenger side) NOT LEFT SIDE

Tried this myself today and daaamn it sucked. I had the same exact problem as you but on a V6 and it was rusted. I tried to get it out through everything. Then my boy gave it a try and popped out the inner boot and separated the thing. My mouth was open. Then we tried hammering the thing. Still nothing I ended up saying fuck this let me watch a video online. I found yours and when I watched till minute 14 I said "🤣😂bueno even this dude is struggling I'm wrapping this up and giving it to a mechanic." We ended up pushing the car and then leaving it at the abandoned Wendy's parking lot that we were working on.

The axle comes out as one assembly why are we fooling around with the axle bearing !!!

No eye protection is killing me. 9:09 No cutting needed just use PENETRANT and a VICE

Cut it outside so you don’t blow up the shop. All them flammables in the back there!!!

Please start using LIQUID WRENCH

Looks like a vice would be good to hold it limiting its freedom.

This is right side

No pb blaster ? Not supporting the housing while beating on it ?? And you're wondering why it won't come out you got to be kidding me dude and your supposed to be a mechanic??

😂😂😂

Sorry My Friend But U Dont Tapp The Axle From The Boot The Old Axle U Get A Big Play Bar And Pry Get From The Back Only Takes Just One Tap Where The Trassmission And The Axle Meet Y Are Killing Your Your Self Doing Wrong😅😅😅😅😅🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦

Wear some safety glasses 🤔

Has anyone thought about replacing the bearing $100.00 or less on rock auto,time is money 💰

Can’t squeeze the retainer pin with anything? You’re trippin, I used vice grips. Plus there are many videos on how to do this.

if you quote a customer for a job and then charge more for your incompetence I doubt they will return.

Líquid Wrench

I had to saw mine out while it was on my ES330. Horrible job!

PB blaster woulda helped a lot. Also hit the bracket with an air hammer to break the rust.

I guess he does not own a vice, air hammer or a hydraulic press