this may be the best "how-to" video I have ever seen on youtube. Good sound/volume, good lighting, clear instructions. Outstanding Gentlemen! Thank you.

Great tutorial (and a pleasure to watch an instructional video without someone's crap music playing through it.)

Only thing I want to mention, those pads and routers don’t look bad. Very thorough video.

Awesome video. First timer here but you show every step unlike other videos which show nothing about the bearings, greasing, bleeding the brake fluid, etc.... Going to try soon as brakes need to be replaced soon. So much easier than the drum brakes.

This is the best tutorial I have seen for this job. I feel totally confident going in now! Thanks!

Just did this today. I think the mutt who used to own this truck saw the part about 20 foot pounds on the spindle nuts and didn't watch the rest because one bearing came out in pieces and the others were pretty well burned-discolored from heat. I had to dress one spindle with a die sinker file because of the lunched bearing and flatten out and clean up the face of one washer on a bench grinder. I'd suggest changing the bearings and the races at the same time you install a new rotor and use the races you got with your new bearings. It takes a little bit of work to change them out but there's no reason to think that different manufacturers hold to the same tolerances. I'd especially not use an old bearing with new races. I use a crescent wrench to snug up the hub and then back it off a little and hand tighten it up, then try the castellated security washer in different positions until I find the best spot that lets me install the cotter pin. I plan on rechecking and readjusting the bearings after a couple hundred miles when everything's seated properly and broken in. Other than that, a good tutorial.

Fantastic video! You guys have great karma after showing us commoners how to take a somewhat complicated task and break it down into easy steps. Thanks for taking the time to create this.

Thanks for the detailed tutorials. You got me hooked from the get go with all parts and required tools lined up. Also the torque spec's were nice to have . This is one of the best I have seen . Great job guys. Thanks again for helping me fixed the brake job on my Ford Ranger.

Great video, about to do the pads and rotors on my neighbour's 2WD Ranger. Good bit more work than i'm used to with pads and rotors on a vehicle with it's own unit bearing but after watching this video i've got no problem.

Very detailed, great explanations. This could be used in a school. Thanks for posting

Thank you for posting this. It helped me on my 2004 Ranger perfectly.

Thank you, I should have watched this BEFORE I started, but it will help, even if I am in the middle.

Also, it's a good idea to recheck and readjust the wheel bearings after fifteen or twenty miles or so.

Good video. The torque-specs were a great addition.

Nice video...a couple thoughts...you could skip opening the bleeder and use a large screw driver to compress the pistons to get the caliper off (then you don't need to bleed the brakes because you haven't opened the system). Also you would bleed all four wheels since most brake systems are a split diagonal (left front/right rear circuit)...and hand packing the bearing would have been quicker and actually less trouble than using the "tool."

A really good job of "Breaking" it down. No pun intended. I have watch lets say more than one and your video is superb and very thorough. A couple other videos recommend that after you complete the work a road test is required and stopping @ low speeds (5&10 mph) before higher speed stopping is recommended to make sure all is good.

Very thorough video. But those pads don’t look bad.

One tip that I learned when I did this job over the weekend is to make sure you get the right rotor! I didn't realize when I ordered it that there were both 10.2 inch and 11.3 inch rotors for the Ranger/B2300 in 2004. The truck needed a 11.3 inch OD rotor and I was sent a 10.2 inch. Unfortunately, it was a special order so I can't return it. PS...If you need a 10.2 inch rotor I have one unused...cheap!

Thank you.This a professional video. Every thing was clear

Nice job, complete and well done how to.

Great video but the lack of a jack stand makes me nervous. Thanks for a very clear and concise tutorial.

best how to ive ever seen, good job

Great video! Thanks for the help

This was very helpful. Very well done!!

Great video!! Thank you so much!

great job broo ia, from indonesia thaxs love my ford ranger

Is this the same procedure for 2wd the bearing replacement? Thanks, Chad

awesome video!!! would torque specs be the same for 05???

excellent video, thank you

awesome vid thanks

are there any alternative methods of greasing wheel bearings?

AWESOME!!! I am about to do this next wekeend!! Excellent! I am actually replacing my entire calipers as well but they are already "loaded" with the pads.. Is there a need to remove them or can I simply just bolt up the new rotors, bearings, and calipers then procede to the bleeding process of the brakes? Thanks, -Nigel

Anti seize and rubber don't mix. It will swell and ruin the rubber seals on the slide pins

much more informative

I used a fudge packer on my bearings & it didn't work well at all.

Do I have to replace the bearings? And also grease them up? Because I changed my break pads and rotors on the front of my ford 2003 ranger and it's still making noise :/ screeching sounds and what not! Please help

Great video........Would really help us all if you could answer the questions from those commenting. I also have a question, Is there a difference in the procedure between 4 wheel drive and 2 wheel drive? Thank you

what size socket do I need for spindle nut

Wait, that truck has the ABS sensors in the front it is a 4 wheel drive ABS, but you used a rotor that does not have reluctor ring 12:55 ? you used the wrong rotor. In the mean time im stuck trying to find that precise rotor that you are using for my truck because mine does not have abs in front! This has been so frustrating!

If you don't start the engine when you turn the steering wheel back and forth for some reason on Rangers it pukes steering fluid.

You know you did a pretty descent video until I see you using old hardware on the caliper mounting bracket. Usually you get that hardware with your pad kit. An using anti seize on the hardware and guide pins why? There is excellent products out there that are made for disc brakes. So you to cheap to buy a hardware kit? An old hardware my not allow the pads to function correctly. You made a good video into crap.