1. If you losen up the rear mount from the bottom (12) and get that top mount bolt off (17), you can jack it up from the trans. And lift it up to pull it out of the driver side. Hardest part so far about this..was done in my driveway on jack stands...in Florida heat, and the 2nd rack mount at passenger side. Which is the devil incarnate.

The 3.3 is very similar and I believe have 4 mounts. The AWD is different than the FWD versions. I Have not done a steering rack on one of these.

@@garysgarage2118 ok perfect. Thanks yeah its awd an havent done any of these yet. So we will see. Thanks for the input

Hey gary. When you did the mounts. Was there vibration when driving at high speeds? Between 115 an 120kms/hr. I got vibration an have replaced tires an all suspension. Not including the rack yet as i have play on the inner. Let me know thanks

@@richardmoore3416 Hi Richard, Speed related vibration is always the wheels or tires. I had a bad tire that was driving be nuts. replaced it and now it smooth at speed. You may have a bent wheel. Have your tire shop do a run out check. Also always have a balance done with weights on inside and outside

@@garysgarage2118 yeah i have done all that and replaced 2 tires. Just wanted to know about the vibration you had from the mounts. If it was in a certain spot or travelled through the vehicle.

For the block bolts It was a two person job. Power bar with one person on top to pull and me on the bottom getting the socket on the bolt. If the mount is under tension it will be hard to get the bolt out. Raise the engine if needed. I also used a combination of 1/2” drive ratchet a short extension and a large wrench for extra leverage when working from the bottom. Sorry I was not able to shoot video while taking that mount off.

@@garysgarage2118 I must be missing something. Never mind how do you get them out, how on Earth do you get them back in? This setup all looks the same as the D4EB (2.2CRDi) rear mount, but with the new mount in situ there is no way of getting the 2 bottom bracket bolts back in! Not even enough room for a spanner. Wasted 2.5 hours today and eventually gave up and put the old mount back in. Leaving the bracket bolted to the block means to I'd need to lift engine/trans about another 4 inches for it to clear the (new, uncollapsed) mount. The car was lifting off the ground when I tried to lift further...

@@tchpandy i had just finished replace both the transmission mount and the passenger side motor mount so the engine was not sagging. This made it easy. Otherwise you need to lift the motor to take up any slack. I recall it was a little tricky but that was 18 months ago and I don’t recall all the wiggling I did to get out. Maybe that’s why I keep working on cars. I can’t remember how hard it was

@@garysgarage2118 Sadly I think this ends up being user error on my part - I must have missed loosening off/removing a *third* mount (listed as 'transaxle mounting' in the factory manual)! I had lifted the motor enough that it was clear of the upper (passenger side in the US) mount by about 6 inches but guessing I could've got more clearance at the rear of the engine with the transaxle mount removed. And man, do I hear you on those last two sentences. In a lot of pain today. Maybe next weekend I'll finally get this sorted...

It’s there