So what the blue plug for I unhooked mine and runs better without it any help would be great 😉 love this cars

Yes I Am you

@@JuanRivera-rl2fd ok thanks

Happy to help out and thanks for the tips as well!

At first those two screws kept me trying to pry the air horn off thinking the gasket had everything stuck together and decided to try those two screws and it came right off lol

Good advice. Yes just be careful on how it all goes together.

Classic G-Body Garage It was driving me crazy! Haha. But I was determined to make it work :)

Appreciate that

Thanks Dave!

Very cool!

@@ClassicGBodyGarage Thank you. Speaking of that TPS, heres something about mine on that cadillac. In 1999, my engine at idle would surge up and down. So I unplugged that3 prong plug and the surging stopped and the engine ran fine and the engine light never came on. Those quadrajets are fully mechanical. In 1999 I had about 60k miles on that car and have 111k on it today and it still works perfect with the stupid thing unplugged. I knew back then as an experienced machanic that had taken and rebuilt some of those quads over the years that no matter what that was it wouldnt matter as far as these have folats and float needles and adjustments on the linkage So I knew the foat bowl couldnt over fill and I knew the mechanical fuel pump could not be affected, so I knew it coudnt hurt anything as long as my engine idled okay while my AC compressor was engaged at a idle.

Glad I could help!

Glad to help

Thank you very much!

Glad it was helpful!

@@ClassicGBodyGarage have you done a video on replacing the accelerator pump? I assume it is very similar to this, just replacing the pump instead of the TPS? Thanks again Brian!

good tip! thanks

@@ClassicGBodyGarage you’re welcome, I’ve rebuilt 3 q jets, one went to an rv so it was critical to have the secondaries in good working order for pulling a 33 foot class A motorhome to 60mph.

thanks

Thanks for watching

and thank you for watching them!

You need to run a vacuum advance distributor on there now because the computer controls the advance but since you unplugged the carb the ECM is running in default mode now.

First, thanks for the compliment! Take a look at the white wire that comes off the large flat plug off the steering column down at the shaft. Might be split. Also look at the wires in the trunk for the rear harness.

Yeah forgot to mention the 2 screws inside the primaries. I have never had any issues getting the 2 long bolts started, ever so not sure on that. Appreciate you watching for your comments.

Love to hear this!

I replaced my 305 to 350 with everything Edelbrock any help will work thank you...

Did you do that on a regal 3.8 motor?

@TruckerErikJourney’s

Agree, easier to do the job off the car. I have done it both ways.

Thanks man! Glad you are learning. Thats why I make these vids. I can to a torsion bar video. Thanks for the suggestion.

Also the Regals didn't have them. They used strong arm shocks.

Thank you for your comment. I do not have videos on control arm replacement. Just be careful with the springs, use proper spring compressor.

Thanks for watching!

James B Did it leave a indicator light on in dash ?

MC Solenoid

awesome I will check it out!

Glad it helped

How difficult was it? I am going to replace my soon.

Thank you! 👍

All great suggestions. Thanks for your support and comment.

MC Solenoid

All I can suggest is study the diagram closely and you will figure it out.

@@ClassicGBodyGarage I figured it out there’s only 2 I don’t know is the Man Vac the manifold vacuum?

@@russiangaymer7443 yes

Vacuum line leaks? Timing ok? Dirty carb.

Correction, he had to hold the Throttle rod in a certain way, but then we couldn't connect the arm back while in that position.

There is a capped off screw to adjust the movement of the TPS. You need the proper tool to do so. There are videos out there to perform this.

thats up to your builder to test them to make sure they are functional.

Oh man it has been some time since I tested one. Its a resistor so put the meter to measure resistance and the numbers should go up or drop as you move the plunger. Hold the meter leads to the middle terminal and either the top or bottom.

Check the TPS resistance from the Top to Middle connector and from the Top to Bottom connector. Service manual states that the resistance of both should be less than 20K ohms. If any is over 20K ohms, replace the TPS. The defective TPS in my Quadrajet was more than 89K ohms resistance. Brand-new replacement TPS checked out under 11K ohms.

put a little grease on the plunger so it stays in place. They are a total pain. I have broken the sensor before. Just take your time.

Green choke plate rod hooks back into a tab. Check out my carb rebuilding video. I show how to install it.

thanks for the reply. I replaced my TPS but now i've got a very high idle about 2000 rmp. I'm thinking i made a mistake with the choke somehow. Are there any common mistakes? any feedback would be great.

MC Solenoid for cars with an ECM.

thanks

I am looking for one myself. Just need to hunt all avenues.

you don't

So how I make the transmission shift the gears in the car

@@grave8592 Put the correct Quadrajet back on it and return the Edelbrok. Aftermarket carbs are UNIVERSAL FIT and not designed to work specifically for applications and need modification to work. Have the original carb rebuilt and put it back on.

@@ClassicGBodyGarage thank you bro 😀

They pull right out. If its stuck I can't say what would be the issue unless the carb is corroded.

Get a vacuum advance distributor if it doesnt have one already and then unplug the computer.

I just rebuilt one. Didn't film it. Its the same for the most part as the older Qjets but should do video on the electronic ones. The key thing to keep in mind is you need to run the adjustment down until it stops for the blue MC Solenoid and count the turns before you then back out to remove it to then remove the float. When you put it back in you need to run it all the way down and then back it out the amount of turns the factory set it at. Usually 3.75-4 turns out.

@@ClassicGBodyGarage that's under the blue wiring harness connector right?

Fuel starvation, vacuum leak or sloppy worn timing chain.

I like the look of the 78-80 era but yes don't like the ECM BS on the new Gs.

Google RPO codes and there are sites to decode them. I can do a video on that. Thanks for the suggestion.

thanks

you need the correct cross member, drive shaft and linkage for the overdrive trans.

That is a plan for a future video. Thanks for the suggestion/reminder. Thanks for watching!

The clicking is the MC Solenoid and it is suppose to do that and stop if you don't start the car. If it is stalling then you may have a vacuum leak so check for that. Also make sure you adjusted the MC Solenoid correctly when you put the carb back together. That would also factory in any running issues. Thanks for watching.

@@ClassicGBodyGarage thank you for your reply and knowledge. I looked for cracked or unplugged vacuum lines but did not find any that looked suspect. Now when I rebuild the carb it did not come with instructions as far as the mc solenoid adjustment goes so I will keep looking for the information... maybe you can point me in the right direction where to look. Regards

@@TN1337X 4 turns out from when it bottoms out is an ideal starting point.

There is a seal there.

I have the same issue, leak around that green sensor too. Would I need a new gasket? Thanks in advance!

A 79 doesn't use an electronic carb.

You need CAR NOT TRUCK SBC frame brackets and engine mounts.

The airhorn holds it down.

I have had many requests on doing vacuum line videos. It is very difficult to pull something like that off because GM changed the configuration based on year and engine type. If I do a video for one vehicle it would only pertain to that car based on year and engine so the video would be very limited. The diagrams are a little difficult to follow but they do help. What I can suggest is locating people on FaceBook groups like Classic Gbody Garage and ask them if they can post or send you pictures based on the same year and engine type as your Gbody.

Ok thanks and I figured that because every carburetor video I have watched have all been a little different. Thanks again for the advise. Your a great help to us all!!

Thanks for watching!

and you are the best for watching! Thanks!

If it is still giving the same code then it is sensor related. Yep check the voltage of the sensor. It could still be the sensor or you have other fuel/air related issues. Vacuum leaks etc. Check all vacuum lines. check timing,

ok, I’m gonna try to see what the voltage is today and adjust the idle, it also seemed to be leaking a little bit, dark colored fuel I’m assuming, and the gasket seemed very wet for only being driven about 4/5 miles.

So I FIXED the warm up issue, the relative I let finish up alone and put some pieces back together because I had to rush to work put the green choke piece on incorrectly. It drives fine, rpms are close to normal with the difference being about 50 rpms (in drive) and 100-150 rpms in park. My brother whose a mechanic said disconnect the battery and see if the service light gets fixed with the computer resetting, he said he might not be able to make it today to check the volts, so if it continues, I gotta do that at a later time.

@@ClassicGBodyGarage That's a reply I made on another site about busting out the window. (From Hank Bridges.) My phone is acting up.

Yes

Check for vacuum leaks.

Drop the tank and make sure the pick up is not plugged up or sludge in the tank. Disconnect and blow out the gas lines. Replace the fuel filter again.

Ok Tkuuu I change one the line n went I change the filter they told me to take out the spring of the the filter tat made any difference please let me know so u don’t think to rebuild the carburetor is necessary Tkuuu for the inf

Gasket goes on dry. Sealer would block the little ports. Never use any type of gasket sealer on a carb.

Will do, thanks again.

Check timing and check for vacuum leaks as that will cause a high idle. Make sure choke is working correctly as well.

@@ClassicGBodyGarage Thanks. I'm gonna look up vacuum diagram and find a timing gun. I did replace my distributor but never looked at the timing afterwards. I just rotated the rotor cap until it started up.

Start with the basics and go from there.

What does it mean when your oil choke light is on?

@@ClassicGBodyGarage I think my cam is flat on one side I'm going to test pressure of each cylinder

@@albertano6969 uselly a bad choke or dirty carb , or possible bad vacum wireing

Replace the TPS

@@ClassicGBodyGarage ITS A NEW CARBURETOR JUST ORDERED IT BECAUSE OLD ONE WAS BAD, IT WAS DOING IT WITH THE OLD ONE TOO?

@@AntoineFinch If it was doing it with the old one then there are other issues. Computer is possibly bad.