To loosen the pipe when only threads are visible use a lock nut jammed against a fitting like a coupling or elbow

While I just recently found your videos, I find them very informative and helpful. Being a Union Pipefitter actively working in the trade for 24 years and the last 10 retired, nothing bothers me more (pet peeve), than to see someone use a wrench the wrong way. First example was using the adjustable pliers backwards. The proper way is to push the wrench so that that the jaws of the wrench flex into the pipe or fitting and the teeth are angled in such a manner that they bite into whatever you are trying to loosen. Second example the nut to the anode rod should always have 3 points of contact with the adjustable wrench as well. In doing so you will have a much tighter connection with the nut and it will be less likely to slip. Lastly, when using the pipe wrench, it’s extremely important to establish 3 points of contact with the rod as well. The three points being the two jaws and the throat of the wrench. This, like the adjustable pliers, will make a much tighter bite due to the pitch of the teeth on the jaws. It may not have been as important in this application but when using a pipe wrench on pipes, maintaining a three point grip will prevent the pipe wrench from egging the pipe. (taking pipe out of round) I was always taught to always use a wrench the correct way they are intended to be used. I will agree with the others in saying your videos are very well done and you obviously are very talented at what you do. Also, you don’t have a lot of unnecessary words like umm or uhh being used. Great job!! Keep up the great, and informative videos!!

This is the third water-heater video of yours that I've viewed. I like the pacing and sound quality of your videos. It's like you're standing near me and we're chatting while you describe what I need to do. It's also nice that the vids aren't jittery or shaky, are well lighted, and you zoom in for more detail when it is called for. All in all, these are great highly-usable instructional videos for DIY homeowners like me, which is why I have just subscribed!

I switched to the Corro-Protec powered anode rods. They completely eliminate the sulfuric smell, (which is CAUSED by the magnesium rod), and last 20 years. No need to change the anode rod every year. They are short and easily fit a tank with limited overhead clearance. No need to keep trying chlorine or hydrogen peroxide contortions to get rid of the sulfur smell. I expect to get 20 years of service out of my water heater. We do have a whole house water filter ahead of a water softener so there is very little issue with sediment and calcium entering the water heaters. And they do make them for the Bradford White application.

When using a pipe wrench, always go for a three-point grip. The throat of the jaw opening should contact the pipe you're gripping. The third point of contact works against the jaws' crushing force. That said, the comments on inserting a filler rod and using lock nuts are spot on.

I've watched two of your videos now and I must say that I think yours are among the best, regardless of subject matter. You don't stumble through your explanations, which are clear and concise. And, you hit some of the minor , but important considerations which, if missed, can lead to significant problems. Thanks for doing a great job.

This is good advice, especially the note about why you shouldn’t drain the tank all the way & how to adjust the replacement rod so it is seated correctly. Also, it is very helpful that you had a leak because then viewers can see how to deal with it. Your systematic, careful, & well-researched instruction is incredibly helpful (especially as it is uncluttered by gratuitous graphics & sounds). Thank you!

This was not the kind of anode I have, but the process and explanation is the best tutorial I have ever seen on KZfaq. This guy could teach anything to anyone!

Great tutorial. I would had cleaned the working (top of the tank) area prior to starting to remove and replace things though.

Subscribed due to your video quality and thorough explanation of how to get 'er done without repeating yourself a million times as others seem to do in their videos. Great job and very well done, especially when you included the part regarding your brothers' heater issue and how you fixed it. Thank you for making this awesome video !

Also at the end, don't forget to adjust the thermostat back to the desired temperature! This is the most detailed, careful video I've seen! Most videos don't even bother mentioning how Bradford White heaters have the anode in a different place! Subscribed.

Awesome video, I replaced mine today on a Whirlpool Water Heater. I used a 1-1/16 socket and an impact driver to loosen it. A lot easier than your Bradford-White set up. Thanks again, and keep the videos coming, they’re excellent.

Excellent video for replacing a Bradford-White anode rod. I especially liked three tips: 1) How to correctly wrap Teflon tape on tapered pipe threads; 2) Using Teflon tape and pipe dope together (40+ years of experience says to use both on metal pipe threads (steel; stainless-steel; aluminum & brass) and only Teflon tape on plastic threads (but you can still use both on plastic threads as long as the pipe dope is manufactured for plastic threads (i.e., PVC; CPVC; Polypropylene; ABS; PTFE; PFA; & FEP); 3) To prevent "cross-threading," reverse the direction of the pipe fitting while slightly pushing down on the pipe fitting in/on the female hole until you hear/feel a "click," then reverse the direction and tighten. This is also a good practice for "self-threading" screws in wood or plastic after the threads are created in wood or plastic (when re-installing these types of screws to prevent creating new threads "in-between" the old threads in the wood/plastic threaded hole - which weakens the mounting pressure.

Had the same situation with the same Bradford White, had to remove the top of the heater, removed some foam insulation and the nipple without threads will be exposed for ~1 inch, should be enough to grab it with an adjustable wrench and of course don't forget WD40:) Steps I took to change the rod in my 10-15 years old water heater (after I removed the rod, there was nothing left, so, assume it was never changed): 1. Remove the top of the heater (5-6 screws) 2. Remove some foam/insulation and expose the whole nipple. 3. Apply lots and lots of WD40 and wait for ~30 mins. 4. Try to grab with an adjustable wrench and it should be good to go. 5. When you're going to remove the old rod, pay attention to the plastic white adapter that is attached to the nipple (the one that has a heat trap inside) - chances are it's going to break, so, slooooowly remove the rod using pliers, otherwise, you're risking to drop the remainings of the rod into the tank. 6. Flush the tank multiple times (I recommend to change the standard garden hose valve that comes with the heater to the 3/4'' ball valve - you will see the difference). 7. Enjoy the water heater for another 5-6 years. Then replace the rod again. The heater will last you decades ahead for $25-50 every 5-6 years.

Thank you so much for showing the hiccups you encountered, most videos edit them out, I ended up learning more from those.

This is now my second video that I have watched, that will yield immediate rewards. Again I mention the super high quality, audio, video and your lighting, if you notice you don't see the lighting reflected in his glasses which is not easy to do. The VIDEO FLOW is truly amazing, as others have already mentioned in the below comments. The editing is really good as well, and the music tracks running are there but just barely noticeable but needed. Needless to say that your voice and diction is spot on, not filled with tons of word fillers like many videos contains on YT. I will venture to say that perhaps you are a Virgo, seeking perfections in your creations. Hats off to your great work and thank you for informing us about things that we can do on our own safely while saving a chunk of money. I am now a subscriber

Only 15.5K subscribers???? What a sin! I'm on board, great videos. Thank for helping me fix up my house!

My water heater is 7 years old and I haven’t checked the anode rod specifically because there’s only about 18” of space above it. I didn’t even know that three section type of flexible anode existed. Thanks for the informative video. Now I don’t have an excuse to not check it! Lol

Excellent video! I am 72 and never understood why a water heater could suddenly spring a leak because it was 10 years old. Plumbers never tell you to replace anode bars every 3 years or drain the fixture every 6 months either. If we all did this, our water heaters might last for 20 years due to lack of corrosion…😂😡

So glad I don't have that type of rod. Love my separate one. That designs presents all sorts or issue. Good video

Great video, when replacing the drain valve, since the tank is empty, you can also access the heating element to replace it as well. I use a clear (So you can see the deposits) plastic hose a bit smaller than the element port size to vacuum out calcium from the bottom of the tank. I'm going to use the electronic anode rod that can last 2o years this week. It has a foot-long Titanium metal that doesn't get eaten up since the emitting electronic pulses do the work.

It’s obvious from what I’ve experienced that neither the manufacturers nor the plumbing supply shops are particularly interested in people doing this for the simple reason that it adds years of continued service to the hot water heater. One plumbing supply shop said that I should just replace a 6yo hot water Heater instead of replacing the anode. That would run me $1800 in NYC.

I’m a little late to the game. I have the very same Bradford white water heater sitting in my garage. Six years old. Lately been wanting to change the anode rod, and came across your video. First off, outstanding video! Well done kudos to you. I now have the confidence to do my own anode rod thanks to year well done and thought out video. Going to save me boat loads of money.😊😊👍

I just scanned all the comments below.. and I won't bother with all the Praising I was about to Offer. EVERYBODY has said everything I would have said!.;.. in other words, YOU DA MAN !!! great job!!

Love how detailed your videos are. My hot water heater is 15 years old and we bought the house about a year ago. I've thought about changing the anode rod several times but always talk myself out of it since the expansion tank is positioned almost directly above it and I hated to mess with it. At this point I think I'll just wait till the water heater fails and make sure the next one is installed so I can change the anode rod periodically.

I also have a Bradford White heater - You just saved me from a bunch of headaches! Thanks :)

I had a specific situation last year where I could not get some npt threads going into the cold side of my water heater to stop leaking even though I was using plenty of Teflon tape. Then I applied both Teflon tape and pipe dope and it worked flawlessly and I have yet to have that leak again. Now when connecting things like water heaters I always use both, there’s no harm in it:)

Great video. I just removed my anode rod yesterday and sanded down all the calcium/lime that was on it. It was still in very good shape structurally . I was surprised at the design of your rod. I was under the impression that the rod metal had to be in contact with the tank metal in order for the sacrificial process to work. I know that's the case with a motor boat engine. Your rod seems to be isolated with the plastic collar which would not allow for the contact of the two metals. So I'm a little perplexed as to why they designed it that way. Personally I don't like the way yours is designed and integrated into the output line. To me having a separate anode hole and threaded section is much more straightforward and nicer. Thanks for sharing

Perfect, I have a Bradford White and I was wondering where the heck the anode rod was hidden, thanks!

19:41 - This thread starting technique will work on _any_ thread type: NPT pipe, PVC adapter, machine threads, sheet metal threads, wood screw threads, Romex clamp locknut threads, nylon threads, etc. It even works on the fine threads of a Nikon camera lens adapter and the plastic cap of your milk jug! This is definitely a time saver and you’ll never “cross thread” again!

Great video. I also replace the rubber gasket in the flexible water supply line, especially if they are old.

Years ago we had a stainless steel water heater it was still working fine at 30 years old. Works on ships the sacrificial anode. Fight current of water, wait for ebbtide.

I use to install water heaters and i live in Canada. I think the chimney is called a DRAFT HOOD since this type of water heater is atmospheric ;since there was NOT a power vent on top the water heater. Atmospheric relies on only air from inside the room (Area) to mix with the natural gas to heat the water in the water heater. Power vent appliance (water heater) there is different manufacturers: Rheem, Rinnai etc., power vent exhausts the exhaust products then the electronic circuit board by timers sends messages to the sail switches to the electric /electronic circuits to make enough electricity for the safety to allow the main burner to the water heater to come on. I enjoyed the video though keep up the good work.

I love in an area where water chemistry and a water softener results in the anode rod dissolving in two years. Best to check regularly or you could be buying a new water heater.

As a new home owner I am addicted to your well created instructionals. Thank you so much, you are a life (and wallet) saver!

Exercise care using pipe wrench. Some anode rods assembled from the factory are so tight that we tend to use cheater bar for leverage. However, there is a danger that the anode rod pipe itself will collapse/crack and break right at the threading. That will be a bad day indeed. I use a socket wrench with the correct size inserted into the opening to prevent these mishaps.

If your old rod is still in good shape take a wire brush and clean of the nasty stuff and re-use it. Also when using thread tape it is a good idea to leave a couple threads bare so you can start it easier when re-installing your rod.

Followed this video, luckily mine was stuck up enough where I could grab under the threads like yours and not your brother's. Thanks so much for this, mine was corroded pretty bad, basically all the way down with crumbles of rusty metal on the center rod. I had quite a time getting it out given all the corrosion on the threaded area. I also used some cheap China made pipe wrenches that kept opening up on me while twisting it out...going to invest in some better ones. Thanks again!

This is great in theory, but I talked to a couple veteran plumbers and they said do not fix it till it's broken. Doing any work or even draining your water heater can greatly shorten its life. it can actually lasts 50 to 70 years if you don't do anything to it. but you will make more work for yourself because you could actually break the water heater by repairing it. Thank you kind sir for your all your hard hard work it is educational.

About 13min in has an anode with life left he said could be put back in for a few more years left, and at 14:50 has a heat trap "valve" piece he also ordered with the magnesium anode, about $4-5 replacement. He hacked by hand the replacement magnesium rod (it can burn if it gets too hot) to match the length of the original anode rod to not damage his tank just in case when putting in the replacement that it's not too long as shown when ordered online. Has to add joint compound and Teflon tape (don't put the tape on backwards). Segmented anodes are a possibility depending on the room available above the tank. No crooked anodes, the water fights you. Don't damage the threads, pipe wrench needed. Love the video, didn't know anodes existed until today, sorry was taking notes or cliff notes rather to stay focused while my cat purrs on me and tries to get my attention. Last part of this video makes me think a pro might be having to do this switch, how often does an anode have life? Oh thanks on the Harbor freight $8 info on the pipe wrench.

Put a 5/8" Shoulder Bolt in the Nipple to prevent collapse, when removing the Anode Rod.

My water heater has a recessed anode, so I used a Bauer impact wrench (wired - has much more torque). You must use a 6 point inpact socket (27mm) to have this work! regular 12 point sockets will distort and round the head of the anode. After I got that impact socket, the anode came right out and was completely shot, so I'm glad I did this work

After doing mine I can attest to using an impact wrench. I messed around with the cheater/breaker bar and saw others using an impact. Breaks that seat and use your ratchet to finish and use the ratch to reinstall. Impacts are your friend here

Love your channel. It will grow for sure. I appreciate how you get camera right in to the work at hand.

I just found out the anode rod needs to make metal to metal contact on the threads when replacing! You can't use too much dope/tape or it will not make contact.

I didn’t see you put pipe tape on the rod and hose connection. Other wise best video I have seen. Very detail. Thanks s bunch.👍

Thanks for the video. I just replaced the anode rod on my Bradford white water heater. problems everywhere! When I disconnected the hot water outlet, a lot of water went everywhere, even though I opened my hot water faucets, and drained the water heater somewhat. The insulation on the top of my water heater has been moist for days now, not sure how to dry it. The Copper to CPVC hot water outlet pipe broke its seal. Had to wait till the next morning to get to Home depot. they had a sharkbite water heater kit. Surprisingly, it was exactly what I needed. I didnt have to extend any cpvc. Plus it has a valve built in, so next time I wont have tons of water draining back.

Thanks so much for this detailed video. I had a leaking hot water outlet pipe that I needed to replace, so I figured I'd go ahead and replace the anode while I was at it. I had the same problem your brother had, but used the locknut trick some folks describe in the comments and was able to get it out. One thing I guess I was unprepared for was the amount of residual water left in the outlet piping. I know that wasn't really the focus of this video, but if I had to do it again I would be ready with a cap or plug to plug off the end while replacing the anode.

Using Teflon tape can cause electrical insulation between the anode rod and the body of the tank. The anode rod must be electrically connected to the tank which forms the cathode in order for the anode rod to properly function. It was not said how long the Anode rod that was removed was in service, it looked like it was in a short time, or it was not functioning properly due to electrical isolation. Otherwise, a great presentation!

These last about 1 year in Phoenix. Amazon is a great place to get a replacement.

@17:30 I've been so annoyed in other videos when they mention to "make sure you put the teflon on the right direction", then they do it backward. Thanks for pointing it out specifically.

Kudos to the original installers. I suspect the reason the anode is cut short is because they removed the anode before installing the water heater. After installing the heater, they found the anode was too long to install (thus too long to remove) and cut it to fit. OTOH, their foresight prevented us learning how to keep metal dust from falling into the water heater while hacksawing an anode being held by vise-grips,..

Why does Bradford White have to be so ... special? Their anodes can be a real pain in the neck to replace.

Thank you for sharing this! Really appreciate your detailed demonstration.

Nice video! I also have a Bradford White water heater, and was wondering where the anode was. You might consider updating your video to deal with the fact that the rubber seals in the corrugated hot water heater supply line, especially on the hot water side, will become hardened and will often crack or just won't seal. They are replaceable, so you don't need to replace the corrugated supply line if they won't seal. I have included the part number and some links to the Danco version of them at the end of this comment. The proper replacements are not flat rubber washers -- they are actually beveled, with the outside edge being thicker than the inside. This is done to help insure that when they are tightened they properly seal, and to insure the connection is electrically insulated, forming what is called a "dielectric" connection (explanation below). These corrugated supply lines are intended to be dielectric, which means they electrically isolate the metal in the water heater from the house plumbing. This is necessary to prevent galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals in the water heater and the metals in your plumbing from occurring. Caution -- don't try and use a flat washer from a garden hose. While it may work for a while, it will fail -- especially on the hot water side where the seal takes a beating from the heat. The flat washer also may not properly electrically isolate the fitting. It's a bit of a pain to remove the old washer, because it usually has hardened up, but it can be done with some patience and either a pick, or a small flat bladed screw driver. Here are some tips: 1. Make sure you remove all of the old seal before pushing the replacement into place. 2. I recommend rinsing or blowing out the supply line to get rid of any bits that may have fallen inside during the removal -- you don't want those bits in your plumbing. 3. I recommend replacing the washers in both ends of the supply tube -- since you will have to remove the supply tube to rinse or blow it out anyway. 4. Make sure to work the replacement in so that it is fully seated against the bottom of the fitting all the way around, (and pull up on the threaded nut to make sure the rubber seal really is pushed all the way down inside). Don't use anything sharp to push the new sealing washer into place. You don't want to cut or gouge it. It's okay to use something dull if you need to -- just be careful. The Danco part number for the proper washer/seal is 65884B, and they sell for around $1.25-$1.40 each in most hardware stores and plumbing supply places. Here are two links to the washers (the DoitBest link shows a picture of the actual beveled washer, the AceHardware link just shows a picture of the bag): www.doitbest.com/shop/plumbing-supplies/pipe-fittings/sewer-and-drain-fittings/rubber-sewer-and-drain-washer-replacement/danco-1-in-water-supply-line-washer-replacement?SKU=492981 www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/faucet-and-faucet-repair/plumbing-washers/4023925 (Note the title at the DoitBest site is a bit misleading -- they call it a 1 inch washer, but it is intended to be used in a standard 3/4 inch corrugated water heater supply line. For some reason, Amazon is now charging $4.50 each for these Danco sealing washers (they used to sell them for 96 cents each a year ago), so it is much cheaper to get them from Ace Hardware or DoitBest hardware (I couldn't find them on the TrueValue site). Both of these national hardware chains will ship them to your local store for free so you can avoid any shipping charges by picking them up there. The big box stores don't seem to sell these sealing washers anymore -- instead they want to sell you a replacement supply tube for $20-$40.

Its a very pleasant presentation with a calm assuring voice, thanks for your time, keep them coming.

Great video. Very helpful. Thank you for sharing it with us!

Excellent instructions. Detailed and easy to understand!

Excellent advice, quite a few great tips! Thank you for assisting others saving ton of money.

Good job. The only thing you didn't do was clean off the top of the tank.

...so just when I find a video that shows me how easy it is to replace the rod I realize whoever installed my heater used copper pipes and solder so I can't remove the fittings. Womderfulll!!!! the copper ends and is clamped to a PVC pipe. Now I'll have to find a video that shows me how to fix this problem.

Good job especially demonstrating what can and will go wrong.

Finally did this. Thank goodness you had a Bradford White also. Thanks!

I had ABSOLUTELY NO LUCK getting the anode rod out of my 6 year old Rheem heater. Didn't even try a breaker bar, but went straight to the impact driver: Tried an air wrench, a hand/hammer powered impact wrench, and even borrowed a 20V electric wrench. Nothing would budge it. I did try a long breaker bar but it immediately started to turn the whole water heater. Gave up and am returning the anode rod!

Well done tutorial, covered all the bases.

Probably won’t be attempting this, because I recently installed a new water heater myself. But it’s good to know how to if I do at some point. Btw it was driving me mad that you didn’t clean the top the water heater before you started 😉

Great video, just finished mine. I would use smaller channel locks or something else to put the new anode rod in. I had the same size channel locks and they would have hit or tore up the new anode threads so I went with a smaller tool. Otherwise awesome video

Very clear instructions. Thanks.

Great learning video!! You’re a great teacher!! Thank you

That manufacturer was in a foul mood when he designed that thing. Brutal.

Very thorough and clear, thank you!

Thanks for letting me know I do not want a Bradford White water heater. Ours is old enough I am scared to mess with it. Will run it till it leaks and then replace it with a tankless. I do need to change the rod in my father's heater. It is at least 5 years old.

You’re a good teacher!

Wiping with a paper towel I find it is better to spot water leaks after you are done.

Your the only person I ever seen use Teflon tape with pipe dope, scratch the teflon, as the threads need to make contact with the female end, using teflon and dope will make the anode less effective.

A possible solution for the problem at 10:29 minutes in....Use a 3/4 inch black threaded T fitting and tighten it down on the anode rod then unscrew the anode rod with the T fitting on it

Fantastic video, very professional. Great tips, esp about cutting magnesium! Going to drain flush and replace anode on mine soon, tho mine is a “standard” anode on its own bolt. But was buried under insulation I had to cut out first (Raheem brand).

Great video! Audio was also great, and you took your time explaining everything. Great!!

Nice video, Since the anode rod needs a current flow between the steel tank and the rod it would probably be best not to use Teflon tape insulating the threads. The steel threads may cut through the tape anyway but why not just use a Teflon pipe dope instead then the threads will be in direct contact for sure.

A "Three Corner Bite" with the pipe wrench so you don"t collapse the pipe.

Great video, they also make a flexible anode rod that bends in segments if there's not enough room. I didn't hear you mention that.

Fantastic video! Thanks for sharing. 👍 😊

You explain so nicely. Cool

Thank you so much my friend. you are a very good instructor !

I have seen a tool that can grab the INSIDE of a pipe to unscrew it or tighten it. That might be something to look into for jobs like this. Try searching on Amazon for "Internal Pipe Wrench." There's several brands available and in sets for between $20-$50. Its described to work off of an "eccentric cam" where machined and heat-treated cams grab onto the interior surface of pipes. The more you turn it, the harder it grabs. One described use is to remove remnants of pipes that have broken off of fittings where you need to remove the stub inside a fitting. Hope this helps!

Outstanding video!

When you check or replace the rod, use a sharpie and write the date on the tank. Check it every two years. If you replace it, only use a magnesium rod. Aluminum and zinc plated cause health issues.

We recently bought a 5-year-old house that I wasn't sure if the water heater had ever been drained. After watching your very helpful video on draining I noticed a clear jelly-like substance being flushed out after agitating and draining my own tank. I flushed maybe 15 times because this jelly kept coming out. I believe this is a by-product of the anode deteriorating??? Also, is it a good idea to replace the anode even though the tank is 5 years old. I'm trying to make this water heater last a while. Thank you for your very detailed videos and help.

Minerals don't attack the steel. The anode polarizes the steel, which reduces corrosion cells within it.

Make sure you have the room to install the anode. Some basment ceiling highs are low.

Thanks for your video -- just what I needed! Why do you not put teflon tape on the joint from the top of the anode to the house hot water pipe?

great layout.. great quality.. ty vm

Mike Fitzpatrick made an excellent suggestion (5star)

If I inspect the anode rod while doing my annual flush and fill of my hot water tank, my understanding is it's a good idea to pull out the anode after a couple of gallons have drained (so I still have the benefit of the weight of the water in the tank to help me while I'm loosening the anode). Would it be okay, though, to replace the anode, if necessary, when the tank is empty (since the water current presents a challenge in returning the anode to the tank)?

Maybe the manufacturer doesn't want you to get the old one out and extend it's life.

Beautifully produced video. Clear and concise. One point, what does the heat trap do?

You can buy a tank with a stainless liner. Personally I replace my tank every 10 years on a schedule. Before you use a pipe wrench on threads knock a tap down inside. This gives you the extra strength you need. NExt time clean the top of the heater before you start. Both, always and you will never get a leak.

This was a very easy to understand tutorial. However, I'm convinced this is not a DIY for me. LOL! For one, my basement ceiling is barely 2 feat above the water heater and I can just see anything else that can go wrong happen. My water heater is barely 2 years old, so I'm just going to hope for the best the next 10 years. BTW, one thing I would have done first is clean off the top of that water heater.

Excellent video - thank you.

Thank you. Great vid.