Read and watch the links before commenting please. How to Sharpen Metal Files - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qLiRnqtoudipYnk.html woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3566/how-to-restore-old-files www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/files/how-to-sharpen-a-file/

THANK YOU FOR POSTING! MY Dad used to work with another fellow, back during WW2, reclaiming files. Factories would use files till they just were worthless. They would save them for him and Dad. Then, Dad said, they would use a wire wheel on a crank, (clamp-on), grinder and remove all dirt and metals from the grooves. Then rinse them off and roll them in a towel. They would roll the towel around one file, then on the outside of the towel, they'd put a file on each side and wrap it around one more time and a file on each side, till they ran out of towel. They'd leave the bundles in the sun for 30 minutes and then un-wind them. They were perfectly clean and dry. Then they would lay the files in a glass vat, suspended on little 1/2" x 1/2" wooden pieces the tips and tangs, up off the floor of the vat, and made layers with a little space in between the files. Then they would gently pour in battery acid diluted with water. (I don't remember...seems like 3 to 1, water to acid). Naturally they used their PPE, (aprons, goggles, & gloves). He said you had to take one out and rinse it off and put it in a vat of water and baking soda, to kill the acid, then rinse that off and test it. If it was satisfactory, the whole batch was ready. He said you had to play with the timing, because you could never get exactly the same acid ratio because if the quality of the acid that you dumped it out of a battery. What it does, is etch all surfaces. The file is thinner and less wide, than it was to begin with, but sharper than it was when it was new. After you take them out, and neutralize the acid on them and dry them, you wrap them in newspaper, with 2 thicknesses of paper between each file as you roll them up and twist the ends. This keeps them dry. He said not to introduce oil to them. Leave them pristine. When they re-sold them, each bundle had 10 of the same sized file in them. They were ready to use, right out of the paper. I have tried it and got some awesome files. I hope this helps you.

Golf ball handle....I've done this for years....not only safe but it keeps the surface of the file off surfaces. Forget the nut....just drill smaller hole (about the size of the tang at mid-way)....bang it on. As for "sharpening"....I suspect all the acid does is clean gunk out of grooves....makes edges "proud" so they can grip the filed material.

The title should read How to clean your files without sulfuric acid.

With respect, I've been using files for over 60 years and not once in that time have I ever seen, or heard of a resharpen of a file. To preserve the edge on any file is to 1) use a card brush immediately after and between filing. 2) Store it on the flat separately so as to avoid contact with other files. 3) Always keep it clean and minimise exposure to workshop atmosphere (moisture). The anatomy of a file (rasp/file section) is lines/edges/teeth. The space between teeth get clogged, the card brush is effective to remove the crap between the milled edges. It will feel that it has sharpened after the process you describe, but that's because it's clean, and is temporary! The hand craft Motto was: use it, clean it, store it, wear it, bin it.

I learnt the vinegar trick from another utube site; works a treat! I avoided using sulphuric acid due to it's high cost at the local hardware shop.(A$55 for one litre!!!)

As a bonus, you can use the browned vinegar for staining most hardwoods, as long as you figure out how to get rid of the smell. Try it, oak gets all black, a lot of woods become deep brown. Depends on the wood, not the amount you use.

After soaking in the vinegar it's important to rinse in a baking soda and water mixture. It neutralizes the acid and prevents you from getting all the black stuff all over yourself.

I've done this more than once. Hadn't noticed any actual sharpening. The vinegar does remove rust, so folks may be attributing the sharpening to removing rust within the stitching. FWIW, I use files almost every day.

I'm definitely going to try that.

I will try this on some of my older files. The physics of the way acid disolves metal makes sense. It will eat away at the peaks and valleys at close to the same rate. And S it does this it will remove the damage from the sharp edges leaving close to the original geometry. I still believe the best way is to use a file card and piece if copper during and right after use then store them in something like a wrench roll. But this should help to bring some usefulness back to my old dull files.

So you did sharpen them with acid in fact. BTW, you can convert the weak acetic acid in vinegar to the much stronger hydrochloric acid by adding common salt (sodium chloride). This makes the acid that is already there more reactive & therefore make the job faster. It does not increase the concentration of acid though, so it will still only treat the same amount of rust before it's completely used up, it just does it much faster. Keeping the acid warm makes it react faster as well. From memory, you add about 2g salt to 100 ml vinegar, probably best to google that though.

Jasco metal etch works way faster and way better. Have used it many times.

Vinegar is still acid, in most cases 24-48 hours is plenty of time. I fire brush before to remove non metallic debris.

You could even tell by the sound it was sharper. May be take a little more time at the start to better clean the file before sharpening. Good to know vinegar works well also

If you use vinegar you should use water saturated with baking sofa to stop the chemical reaction , then oil.

Love your stuff. I subbed and rang your bell. Keep those videos coming.

I liked the video, but really wanted to pile on for the "acid" thing. It's just the way I'm built... Thanks for putting this up - I had no idea files could be restored this way. I'm not totally sure they are "sharpened", but the key point is they're useful again!

Some wire brushes are high carbon steel. If you use them on a regular bases it will wear on them.

Just had a thought, would love some input from anyone; what about potassium alum? I’m sure you’d have to be careful to not let it soak too long, but if you’ve ever used it to dissolve a drill bit broken off in aluminum, it definitely eats away steel. Again, just a thought.

You are still using an ACID just a safer milder one ! just not sulfuric acid. All Acid dose is it diminishes the radius of the angle of a dull edge by removing metal. So the stronger the acid, as well as the time the file is left in acid, will affect the result.

you dont need the nut in the golf ball. just drill a hole a little bigger than the end of the tang (about 1/4" dia), go a little more than half way through the ball and stick it on the end of file. tap working end of file against your work bench a couple good times and that's a wrap. all that rubber stuff inside the ball will grip the corners of the tang and tighten their grip as tang gets wider.

White vinegar for all rust removal, works 100%< the longer you leave it, the stronger it works

The sound of the file tells the story

Interesting. I had never heard of sharpening files with acid. I'd have guessed that acid would have a "leveling" effect on the sharp projections -- which have greater surface area -- and actually make the file smoother. I'll give this a try some time and see how it works. It would be fun to rehab some garage sale castoffs and give them new life. Thanks for making the video.

I think you're blunting it with that harsh wire brush. Use a nylon brush like the pros.

Nice experiment. Your title is a little confusing. As you read on the label of the apple cider vinegar, it contains 5% acetic acid. In the US cooking vinegar contains 5% and if the batch is a little shy they add some or water it down to get it to 5% acetic acid. Even with that bit of confusion you did succeed in sharpening your files. Congratulations. Good job well done. Some suggestions: 1. Use apple cider vinegar for the process. The distilled white vinegar may seem like a better deal but it gets rancid. That's the strong smell. Apple cider vinegar doesn't spoil as fast. It also doesn't stink. I've been able to get 3 or 4 loads of rusty parts through it before it slows down too much to use. 2. Make up a bath container from a piece of PVC pipe and a couple caps. I have a playlist showing the steps. kzfaq.info/sun/PLXlq5qGw1pepNSS5f6sy8TaSfDYvkxMK2 3. If you want to go a little faster you can use cleaning vinegar. It has 10% acetic acid and will work a bit faster. It is also white vinegar and will have the stink issues. 4. If you want to improve the process use battery acid. It is a mix of sulfuric acid and water. Right out of the battery it will work quite well. 5. I use sulfuric acid based drain cleaner. Not Draino. Draino will remove paint and organics but it won't sharpen the file. 6. Use baking soda as a rinse. It will kill the acid and prevent the files from rusting immediately after drying. Here's a link to my video on sharpening files. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/at98hs6ImqjbkoE.html I like the golf ball handle that you patterned after Cody's. It looks like it works well.

Will it hurt them if I cleaned them in a blast cabinet?

Easy off and a file card rinse oil then file some chalk to prevent future clogging.

The real test for a file is will it cut brass.

I wouldn't leave them in there for a week. Otherwise you'd be making some vinegaroon (a liquid that turns leather black, thoroughly, permanently). It's usually made with steel wool so it dissolves quicka.

do not use a steel wire brush. you already lost some of your sharpness you achieved with acid. use a brass brush or a brass wire wheel and then coat your files with a light spray lubricant. do your vinegar again but clean with brass brush and check the same files and they will be sharper.

Friend, vinegar is 5% acetic acid....you're still using acid.

Rub blackboard chalk onto the teeth of the cleaned file before you start filing , this keeps the teeth from becoming clogged for much longer

It really doesn't sharpen the file it just cleans the muck out which in turn will make it file better. Anyone that uses files alot should keep them clean with either straight muriatic acid or hydrocloric acid that cleans pretty fast thats what i use or like he done it here in the video it takes longer to clean but not as effective...

Hey a wire brush just dulls files if u think bout it steel cuts steel so it will dull it too. A horse hair or swine hair boot brush is actually better if you keep on top of cleaning the trash out of files

Why do we still use the tired old " Arsenio Hall" greeting? SSUP YYYtub as though your actually talking to someone. Get to your point and get it done fast.

Honda nighthawk , 1986ish?

Being a skeptic and a retired toolmaker I have grave doubts : very grave doubts !that this method would work . Do a examination of before and after under microscope and prove me wrong . I suspect the minimum you are doing are rounding off the sharp cutting edge and Vinegar is such a weak acid you can drink it .Eager to be proved wrong down here in Australia .

Never oil a file

You know that vinegar is acetic acid, right?

it just dawned on me that those wire bristles may be very hard wire and might dull the file

That smaller file was wore out in the middle from wear and tear, the camera picked that out straight away when it was wet.

It is a bit of a misnomer to say you are Sharpening your files. In actuality you are deep cleaning your files. If it helps great. But you cannot sharpen files to my knowledge. You can make new files if you are very adept in the art as high quality files are hand made, like the industrial quality of the German made Pferd machinist files, but the price can be as much as $300 dollars for a hand cut random tooth cabinet file. I assume Wal-Mart does not sell those, might have to go to Harbor Fright; no I did not misspell 🙄🔫. God save the queen and decent tool companies.

You said that you're not using ACID then show the Vinegar label that states 5% acidity ..DOH ! Vinegar is an acid !

... Without using acid... Vinegar is Acetic acid... Just thought that was important

Vinegar IS acid.

vinegar is an acid, it just took longer then other acids. think about it .

sorry I was mistaken in my last comment, the term is actually de-fouling here's a guy who teaches metal working to back me up kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qKpjlM2CssymYoU.html , sorry bout the last comment, it was deleted no need for that vulgarness on your channel have a good one, keep up the good vids

I would rather watch my knipex pliers get slowly split in half by a hypertough angle grinder than have the smell of vinegar linger on anything near me for more than a microsecond.

why are you calling this sharpening, your just cleaning the debris between the teeth . the biggest no no for files is to try cutting on the back stroke, the teeth only cut one way !

Buy sum safeway cola ..c what happens.

just dip it in vinegar for an hour or two.

Errr vinegar IS acid

Too easy .better and safer then using acid

Ohh gluten free acid.......

acid works better.

Ruined them didn't you they rusted bad not same file

For the money & time put in I would rather buy new files.

The great thing about KZfaq is that any nitwit in the world can publish their sad vids

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Complete waste of time