How to Route Set - Routesetting V7 Boulder Problems

Рет қаралды 13,510

4 жыл бұрын

This is the eighth part in our series of route setting boulder problems in a climbing gym. The climbing grades we cover are V0 - V7. Be sure to check back Wednesdays for the next grade! New Videos Every Wednesday!
Credits:
Video shot and edited by John Bearce and Nick Longo
Art by Marilee Bearce and Jordan Serra

Пікірлер: 39

@AuxArcClimbing 4 жыл бұрын

Really solid video. I feel like you guys took a great look at the feedback you got from the last series, and have sifted and applied it wonderfully. Great video. Really thoroughly enjoyed this one.

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kinds words and helping us find the voice and feel we are looking for in these videos! Hoping to get the next one down to about fifteen minutes if possible.

@manocaio123 2 жыл бұрын

watched the whole series more than once. Its great

@ineedhelp5844 Жыл бұрын

i think this is the best routesettiwng video series I've seen so far. good job gentlemen, you've improved my routesetting a lot

@TheTenThousandThings 3 жыл бұрын

this one is great, all the details and the breakdown of the center of balance lines. pretty helpful way to conceptualize it. Thanks!

@VerticalSouth 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome! So happy to hear it was helpful in anyway. Thanks for the words of encouragement

@hamishfalconer9402 9 ай бұрын

I love this series!!

@VerticalSouth 8 ай бұрын

Thank you! We love it too!! One day we hope to do more

@willstokes9903 3 жыл бұрын

you are awesome! just subscribed and loving it! getting back into climbing and just pushing for v7

@VerticalSouth 3 жыл бұрын

Same here Will! We have eeked out a few but are far from consistent. Happy to have you along with us!

@NickAlberto 4 жыл бұрын

Very informative video. Been following the whole series + some of your other videos and it's helped greatly with my home wall. You guys take a subjective and creative process and bring out the objective points for us to see and learn. would love to see grades of different styles on different terrain! (V3 overhang/v3 slab)

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Awesome! We werent sure how people would feel us setting the same grades over and over, but we are glad to hear so many people are keen on it! We will definitely be shooting more.

@reduceyouruse 4 жыл бұрын

Yo these are awesome! I’d love to see more how you pull inspiration from outside routes into your sets!

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much, that is a great idea for a video. Maybe we could just talk about it and show some what we get inspiration from.

@vMoppyMedia 3 жыл бұрын

Really great and educational videos. Earned my sub!

@VerticalSouth 3 жыл бұрын

That means so much to hear! Thanks so much for the kind words and we will keep them coming!

@costa_konstantinou_dp 4 жыл бұрын

Enjoyed. Well done.

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks very much! We know it was a lot longer so thanks for sticking it out

@tracypewthatswho1362 3 жыл бұрын

These videos are rad, do more!

@VerticalSouth 3 жыл бұрын

More are on the way don’t you worry!

@kaducc1 3 жыл бұрын

Great content!

@VerticalSouth 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for the kind words kadu!

@ignacio_cifuentes_m 4 жыл бұрын

Love this video

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the kind words Ignacio!

@lizardmanbebo 4 жыл бұрын

Love the series and the maker fair shirt as well.

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much! I love the shirt and the maker movement! We are starting a series on making your own holds out of wood too. Go figure!

@lizardmanbebo 4 жыл бұрын

@@VerticalSouth I made a bunch of very basic holds for my wall, i'm fairly new to climbing and was looking for ways to spice up my wall which is how I found you guys.

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Happy to have you with us! We are launching a wooden hold making video tomorrow actually. Let us know if there is any specific content you’d like to see!

@lizardmanbebo 4 жыл бұрын

@@VerticalSouth I would be love a video how to force different moves on a wall, im using my wall (12 foot tall) to have people over and climb. And would love to be able to force them into more interesting moves.

@jezzadee87 4 жыл бұрын

Best in the series - really informative, tying together your thought processes on hold placement, CoG and movement. Do you reckon setting harder problems make you give more conscious consideration to these issues? Whereas you can just feel your way through setting easier problems?

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Absolutely, the easier grades are able to be set much quicker and smoother with just instinct. As the grades get higher, the climbers are more creative and stronger so you have to be in the lookout for breaks all the tine

@NormanBEnz-dt3hr 4 жыл бұрын

is it normal for setters to set problems at their projecting grade, or is this just for KZfaq?

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Absolutely, most setters will actually set harder than their projecting grade. It is hard to do but with careful consideration can be done well!

@Adambe3 4 жыл бұрын

Best how to set a problem yet. Great job y’all. I didn’t like how you corrected yourself about wearing ladders though. If someone wants to they should be able to. #instagram

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

Your too kind Adam! Glad you liked this one so much. This will likely be the format we move forward with.

@Snowhead9408 4 жыл бұрын

Can break the boulder if arete is in

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

The arete is off on this bad boy, but good eye!

@ignacio_cifuentes_m 4 жыл бұрын

V 8 ?

@VerticalSouth 4 жыл бұрын

We actually tried a v8 recently but didnt give ourselves enough time before we had to open the gym! There is some footage on the cutting room floor of it.