Electrical can be super daunting. That is why we brought in some help. It might be worth bringing in a professional to advise just for some peace of mind... so you know nothing is going to explode :)

ColaVentures Good advice I'm sure! I'm not too into things exploding... on my bus. :-)

What is feeding your panel? Do you have a battery bank ?

I'm glad it was helpful! Adam is legit!

yay! Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions.

Lol! Imagine how I feel! I've probably listened to it a million times just from all the editing of these videos :)

That is odd! I'm much more comfortable with plumbing... I'm always afraid that I am going to blow something up!

It is only easy with an electrician near by!

They left out a lot.

It might have been good to use some insulated staples now that I'm looking back but we tried not to smash em on there too tight. So far it has been holding pretty well!

We didn't run solar but i think most people run solar into some deep cell batteries with a charge controller and then they either run into an inverter or just do everything off of 12v. We framed and insulated before we ran insulation and then spray foamed in some of the extra spaces.

The most common way is to install an inverter that changes DC from the bus to AC and add batteries connected in parallel so they don't drain fast. Even better is having a 3rd battery just for the starter that stays fresh. Add a shore power connector so you have power when you park. If you want solar, hire someone.

I'm not exactly sure how to answer that question. I know 50amps is the max you can get for an outlet as far as shore power to power the bus panel. You basically just want to be sure you're not putting too much power through your cords so they don't overheat.

Hey! I would go with spray-in foam if we were going to do it again. With all the windows the insulation is pretty bad no matter what you do but spray in I think is a bit more effective.

Thanks for reply

The AC ground needs to be isolated from the chassis.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lcCIrNmZt7CRoYE.html&t This video has a little bit in there about it but right now we just run it from a 50amp plug connected to our house. This video also shows a bit of what it looks like towards the end. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l9l7d69yyLfco5s.html&t

This is a link to the electrical panel we used. Hopefully that is the info you were looking for: thd.co/2Jzn7fW

@@ColaVentures I am pretty sure that this box should be considered a "Sub Panel" and the neutral and ground should NOT be bonded together.

What part of the code book are you referring to?

Adam just did it as a friend! We are going to give him a thank you gift and he gets unlimited meals at the Cola house from now on :)

Shore power has a ground and then we ground to the chassis of the bus. I didn't have that in this video I don't think. You're supposed to run a ground to the chassis from the negative of the battery bank I believe but we aren't using the batteries right now so I'm not actually sure.

@@ColaVentures that 6awg cable looks like it only has 2, but I guess you can see the ground wire. on the right side of the main breaker. it has the two screws going to the breakers, you can tie those together with a copper bar. That will give you split phase and allow you to use all the slots. as a Subpanel and since Ground is on the Chassis you need to have the white neutrals separate from the grounds. GFCi and Arc Fault would not work ( i think) I know enough, not to try to wire a job this big myself

It was hooked up to our battery/inverter setup but now we have it running to a plug that goes to a beefy extension cord and then to a 50amp plug on our house. In the future I'd like to set it up to switch between the two systems (battery/shore) but we are stationary now and have no need for that!

Ahhhhh dang! You might just have to either trace the wire from the brake light itself or at least check the color of wire to help narrow it down. Or look inside the panel sometimes they make a chart of wires that is pretty tough to decipher but might be worth a shot.... I'm not sure how to trouble shoot that.... Maybe step on the brake and use a voltage tester on your electrical panels/fuses and see which one lights up when you push the brake.

Thank

We only ended up using a 15 amp battery charger to recharge the batteries and then we have a 5000 watt inverter. We are planning to have the bus plugged in at our house or at a ranch that we are working at for the summers. So we went small for now. We may end up adding at 30 or 50 amp switch to bypass our inverter/battery set up in the future but for now the 15amp keeps us charged up!

Sorry, I don't remember! I know it depends on length and voltage... You might be able to talk to someone at the hardware store and tell them what you're doing!

Not sure if you ever got this question figured out but the yellow wire he used is usually 12/2 which is good for 20amps. But the outlets he used are good for 15amps. 14/2 is rated for 15amps. most homes are run with 14/2. Hope this helps!

@@BackroadPurpose Having a larger wire than needed is ok and any house with 15 amp receptacles and 14/2 was wired by the plumber.

KY4TRUCK can you help me understand or point me to a website with more info? I grounded the inverter to the chassis of the bus. Are the grounds in the panel not supposed to be connected. I’m confused?

**Yes You right in grounding the inverter to the chassis of the bus.** The ground's and the neutrals in the sub breaker panel should be isolated from each other in some cases. Some inverters the ground and neutral are bonded together and in some inverters there not. easy way to check is with continuity checker from neutral to ground on the output of the inverter. xantrex true/pure sine inverters and a few of the other mager name inverters I believe the output of the ac side the ground's and the neutrals are isolated from each other. your electrician should understand what i am talking about in that respect. here is a image of a sub panel Like what you have. I was taught to do things a little different, if it is working right i would not worry about it. there is a lot of different things out there on the interweb for house stuff. but in the way of of wiring inverters and there install to sub panels in the auto world is hard to find. so many vendors have different ways there equipment hooks up to other stuff. I have been learning along the way myself with the onset of this stuff. I myself would look at the inverter as the main panel and the sub panel the same way as the photo keeping all items in the way of power going back to the main source in which it is coming from. this helps stop ground loop's from happening and keep RF noise down also. also a good true sine wave inverter is very RF Quiet. I am also a Amateur Radio Operator so i want things too be RF Quiet. IMAGE i.pinimg.com/originals/c2/34/aa/c234aa5f03ceadd3a134a8044850f828.jpg One Day i might doing something like you have going. I hope this maybe helps.

Hey there, can you answer me if you get this please? So, do not ground the panel box to the chasis for shore power?? and do NOT use the green bond screw? put all grounds on one bar and all neutrals on the other bar?

seems like a well enough electrician, but I do not like the practice of not making better joints.

Thanks for the feedback! We are already all sealed up and everything is working great!

They use metric. :P