I am a simple man, I see David Freiburger, I watch.

This is seriously THE most informative video I've watched on youtube. I feel like I just sat through the most interesting course I've ever taken. THANK YOU for taking the time to teach us knuckle heads this stuff!!!!!!

After 65 years of thinking I'm the smartest guy in the room I find it impossible to perform even the most basic of functions unless I fully understand the reason why and I can't fully understand that reason unless it is presented in an interesting and succinct manner. These two young men are perfect... Gotta Love It... Thank You!

Freiburger, you are the Bob Ross of small block Chevy's lol

Well done ! So often the amateurs know their subject but not how- to on videography ... bad script, shaky camera,lighting, etc. But this is so easy to watch. Except for the music, which doesn't add anything. Thanks !

I don't care that this is all very old information for me. I watched because of David.

I like how they say each car has different timing settings. Most other videos will just tell you how a timing light work and how to adjust the timing which is good but NOT all timing specs on all cars are the same. Simple straight forward video. Thanks. I'm getting a timing light soon.

great to see a vintage Freiburger clip....and it's useful!

This is really interesting. I've known how to check and adjust my timing for a long time but never really knew why I was doing it.

roadkill before roadkill

you my good two sirs...HAVE SAVED ME AND MY DAD A BOAT LOAD OF TIME! we were setting the timing to exactly 0 so our engine would spark (we'd smell the ignition) but the piston wouldnt go. (we have a v8 chevy small block)

Dumpster is right. These two MSD associates are my go to mechanics. Now I need to borrow a timing light. Havent need one since the 80s and didnt know, what I now know, how good it can be.

@catburner Static timing means "to install the distributor at the specified timing" as indicated on the emission sticker. When the timing pointer is at , say 12 deg. BTDC on the compression stroke, then install your distributor. You don't install the distributor at 0 deg.

Awesome mullet, Mr. Freiburger. I also appreciate your professorly explanations.

sweet, i just learned a months worth of knowledge in highschool with this 9 min video.

omg, im diagnistics/ fuel class and you teach this alot better than my instructor

Great Information and as always the hands on section is easy to understand. He simplifies even something complicated well enough that the average Joe can follow and get something useful. Always enjoy what ever he's been doing...from those days of buying a junker to drive several hundred miles back home to those Expensive EXOTICS on other shows. Call him a Jackal of all trades is accurate indeed....yes I spelled it correctly and I meant to say JACKAL...JACKAL is the Ol' Timers verbiage for effect and humor in the very best of ways. Always been a fan of these guys and seen Freiburger like forever on several channels/shows...Always has a friendly, regular guy good attitude with fairly decent explanations of the workings of the thing he is talking about. I've been a SB guy from the late 60's...yeah, I',m that old. The SB Chevy is the most versatile engines ever made Barr-none. The timing can be a couple of degrees different from one ENGINE to another with ALL the same IDENTICAL components. So you'll need to find that sweet-spot for YOUR ENGINE... you can build two identical engines and they will each have a different sweet-spot in possibly a couple of things. THE ONE SPECIAL ASPECT that MUST need mentioned is that thing they didn't touch on...The FUEL OCTANE RATING has a LOT to do with how far you can ADVANCE the TOTAL TIMING without Grenading a piston. Say you just want to run pump gas with the middle of the road 89 OCTANE then your TOTAL TIMING will find itself around 30 to 32 degrees. Where as if you run Premium Pump Gas of 91 Octane Rating that TOTAL TIMING will bump up to around 33 to 34 degrees. Now Run some RACING FUEL in that 5gal can, then you can then SAFELY run 35 to 38 degrees TOTAL TIMING...HOWEVER, this is NOT SET IN STONE due to all the other perimeters. TAKE is easy and with baby steps to find the SWEET-SPOT. That spot can change from day to day so pay close attention to this performance setting. ALSO keep in mind that those numbers don't make a huge difference in performance on the street. SO if you are just looking for some dependable and safe playing around power and keep it stout then don't go APE-CRAZY until you work at bringing it up in baby steps and ONLY ONE CHANGE AT A TIME. Do too many changes at once then you won't know if they are compatible or one change may have countered another. One change at a time gives you something you can work with to find your engines sweet-spot...ONE STEP AT A TIME. The figures above are usually on one of the most common engine builds I do which is not radical by any means. Say around 10.5 to 1.0 Compression, 282 x 210 Cam. 1.6 ratio COMP CAMS Steel Roller Rockers on both the valve and the Fulcrum contact point (I don't like the Aluminum Rockers because I've had some fail...never a failure with steel version and they seem to keep their adjustment much longer and better), Roller Lifters, Torquer II intake with a 750cc DBL Pump Race Carb...no choke accommodations with average 72 to 74 Mains...Idle can vary too. MOST of those numbers depends a lot on Attitude, Humidity and so on. This is a good combination for my area in a fairly heavy vehicle. These specs are usually in the pickups weighing in the neighborhood between 4,850 to 7,200 LBS and running Racing Fuel only for the 1/4 mile days. TOTAL TIMING averages between 34 to as much as 38 degrees advance with a long Curve. I like a longer (or slower) curve for the heavier vehicles so it doesn't get up there too soon...takes them longer to get up in revs and seriously does not affect the overall time down the track. I like keeping that curve at the right timing until it gets up around 3.800 RPMs fro there on it doesn't make any difference SO until then it doesn't detonate and keeps it much, much more dependable. Not a super hot build but an economical build that has plenty of THAT ADRENALINE FIX fun for the weekend racer that has little to no break downs for several seasons. It's not ALWAYS ABOUT how fast you can can go but rather your consistency in your run times that gets you the trophy in bracket racing like we do around here. WOW, didn't mean to go this long but you get me talking SB Chevy's and I just let loose and spill the beans. AGAIN, GREAT VIDEO ON A CRITICAL PERFORMANCE SETTING FOR THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVY

I watched all 3 video's about installing a distributor, and came up with i'm taking it to the mechanic!

Now if you don't understand what these 2 guys just explained. .. Give up.. Great explanation,

The EST distributor module on the side can also control injector firing, make sure to plug in BOTH connectors on the side or else your injectors won't fire, or the distributor won't get energized. Make sure to unplug the EST timing control before adjusting timing, it'll be a little black coloured coupling with a single black striped tan wire (I found mine on the passenger side coming out of the wiring harness, don't get it confused with the grey coupling near the distributor, the engine won't start at all with that unplugged) which then signals a code 42 stored in the ECM. This disables the EST so the distributor can be mechanically timed accurately, which is why the emissions label usually will say to set timing at 0 degrees, read your label to get the specific degree of course. Once timing has been set, plug the EST single wire coupling back in, and restart the ECM by pulling its power fuse under the hood, or disconnecting and connecting the battery. (disable any anti theft features on your car before doing so, or you may be accidently locked out from those devices due to a code reset) The EST will then do its job normally by advancing the timing accordingly, and retarding the timing if spark knock is detected.

Absolutely fascinating. I will never take my mechanic for granted ever again. Thanks guys..

Dude u guys rock bro! Always intrested in watever is said by u guys!!!! Long live the muscle car & horsepower!

Nice video. I'm glad to see you're enjoying the joy of the magnum 6! I have one myself. It's a 99 4x4. I also have a 98 5.2 v8 Dakota 2 wheeler with nearly 195k miles still running strong and all I've done to it was one water pump change and I think 1 battery change. As far as my other Dakota the v6.....oh boy here we go......, I have replaced the freeze plugs. Nasty coolant drips, i changed the main bearings along with the oil pump and pick up tube, timing chain, the starter, distributor, oil pressure sensor, idle control sensor, crankshaft positioning sensor, BOTH cylinder heads, they had hairline cracks on the laps between the exhaust and intake valves all 12 of them ( this is prone to all v6 daks until they changed to the 3.7)so now I have new and very clean cylinder heads with perfect valves and springs, and of coarse have replaced ALL gaskets with fel pro ones. I'm starting to get a slight power steering drip but that's not hard to do. Anyway, this long laundry list of repairs on my 3.9 Dakota and it runs really well. No sludge no carbon build up just a clean well balanced 3.9 machine. Its a love hate relationship with the 3.9 magnums. the 318's are just perfect no problems or issues as long as you maintain them. I'm the 3rd owner on my 3.9 Dakota so this truck was not taking care of till I got. I am the original owner on my v8 Dakota. My point is when your 3.9 is talking to you listen to it or you'll be sorry later. Great vid and I like your idea of writing your trucks info and milage on top of the radiator. I'll do the same with a label maker so its cleaner and peels right off.

Very helpful video even after so many years compared to current ones... Like back when frieburger still had hair haha.... When I see information from him it has always been pretty accurate, thank you very much!!

you guys have great teaching and explanation skills. Loved the video. Thanks for the knowledge too. Much appreciated and thanks for being generous with your knowledge.

impressive, I got a SU carb L26 motor and I've seen alot of videos about timing, but this by far is the best direct explanation & demo. Thanks!

This video makes me want to buy MSD from now on. Subscribed. Thanks for the no-nonsense info.

OMG thank you so much. I just had a mechanic tell me you can't adjust the timing of a car haha... I guess I am going to do it myself. Thanks guys!!

MSD just earned a new customer : ) thanks for the video.

i learned so much watching this, i ususaly dont comment, anywhere, but i had to say thanks fellas.

Superb video, never really understood how that timing light worked! Thanks a lot!

Lots of good information. thanks guys. Didn't hear a mention of measuring timing without vac advance.

Hi there m from fiji and ur video is very informative. I have a 2000 Toyota primeo with 4a engine so 1 year ago I changed my timing belt and since that day the engine seems to have some problem as it does not jump as before ,there is late engine heat up and there is a back fire at times and the engine has distributor coils and the usage of fuel has also increased.Also the vehicle hesitates when moving from a complete dead stop.

@catburner Try 8 deg. btdc, which is what the 1988 305 ( in the C1500 ) timing spec is. Install distributor only after the damper slot is aligned with 8 deg. btdc (compression stroke # 1 cyl.) When installed, the dist. rotor should point exactly at the # 1 cap terminal. Then tighten down and test with timing light. Should not harm engine.

Best video on timing hands down. Thanks.

So good at explaining things , makes it look easy even though it isn't

Lol yeah i kinda feel stupid for asking that. I took apart a 351 with my dad and a few of my buddies, and they all pointed it out to me saying "you know everything about engines but you dont know how a HB goes on the nose of the crank?" Of course we all joke around with each other lol but i guess you can never stop learning lol. But thanks so much!

Thank you for a basic instruction of timing. Very informative for non gearheads like me. Now I KNOW I nee to take my truck to a mechanic. lol

Again best video on youtube

Sweet as video guys. Excellent job. Learnt a lot in a short 9 minute video, the most informative video yet!!! Thanks and keep it up!

Very very useful and great info I just learned. I was having issues with my 305 timing. Now I know how to adjust it

Thank you. Been reading and watching a lot of tutorials. Yours is the most informative.

Best video I have ever seen explaining timing a sbc

aim the stobe light at the front pully. see if the timing changes when running with or without vacume advance hose attached. If yes, then vacume advance is working. If not then vacume adjuster is broken or dizzy is sticking inside. In the last case you need to remove the dizzy, check if all parts are there (fly weights and springs) and clean it out using pressurised air, then lightly lubricate the mechanism with some light oil. Then reinstall and do the timing again. (2)

GOOD VIDEO! I've seen a lot of ignition timing video and this one made it simple and clear to understand.

Freiburger really had a mullet, I'm impressed.

Please respond to me.. This is in my opinion the best vid on you tube very detailed but you missed one thing. Vacuum advance. So with vacuum advanced disconnected and plugged i am at 11 BTDC. When i connect the vacuum back up im at 30ish BTDC is this the correct way or did i mess up.

What ever happened to removing the hood and having you mechanic sitting in the engine bay adjusting it for performance while you nail it down the neighborhood streets for the best results physically tuning it? No Seat belts?

Half expected to see a Steve Brule cameo lol. Good information here.

AWESOME VIDEO!! Very well explained!

thank you loved the video, it was really educational you explained what the teacher couldn't to me.

Good video to watch with my breakfast. Gives me confidence!

Finally, a video about timing light I understand. ThanX

I think MSD products are great and your video was very informative ..Thanks Tom

get a strobe light as the one in this vid, hook it up. disconnect the vac line of your dizzy (and plug it temporarily with a screw) start engine and let it idle (800-900rpm) aim the stobe light at the bellhousing on the carb side of the engine. if you see the 'steel ball' in the middle of the hole then your timing is OK. If not, twist the dizzy back and fro until you do see it. When done tighten the dizzy clamp bolt and re-attach the vac line. (1)

Great video.I have a motorcycle but your explanation of timing was very helpful.

"cause Roadkill. that's why. Last engine I built was a 340. It didn't turn over half a turn and it was running. I don't need to watch this but I still do.

Hey look! It's a younger Freiburger!

That was a very simple explanation of Timing, thanks!

David had an impressive Kentucky waterfall back in the day

It's OK YabbaZapperDoo Your a legend in your own mind. Enjoy the MSD I hope they pay you well

The ballancer (sp) will only go on in one way, You will have a key in the crank to slide it onto. The ballancer will have a zero mark on it already. If you don't have a roll back light, get a timing tape and mark the ballancer with the marks and take it off. The come off anyway. I always set total timing, SBC usually about 34*. range is about 32-36. Your motor will have a sweet spot. You have to find what your motor likes. Good luck!!

hey u have a great teaching skills keep it up pls keep posting videos so that I can learn from you

Just when I tought I knew something about engines...

@gmcjoshua follow the spark plug wires back to the distrbuter nd make sure its the right wire for the right cylinder. theres going to be a set of numbers on your block the shows you how the distrbuter is supposed to be wired. the front of your distributer might be 1 then . 8 being on the passenger side and 1 on driver side.

all the knowledge i need in 9 minutes...

Definitely subscribing very detailed, easy to understand, and your workin on Chevys, thanks for the great info guys!

They're correct any modern ignition system travels positive to ground you may be thinking of an old 6 volt system while most of those still ground to negative I believe there were some early 6 volt positive ground systems where positive was actually connected to the frame. The electricity would have to travel through the distrbutor and the coil first anyway in order to boost voltage through the coil and jump the plug gap otherwise 12 volts isn't near enough to even spark

Fantastic!! I have never understood it til now. So a really really great video!!!! Thanxz

GREAT video. Really explains eveything in detail.

my good idea is to clip the timing light cable on no.1 plug lead up near the dizzy cap.It stops you burning your fingers on the pipes , and prevents the clip coming into contact with the hot pipes.

Clear crisp explanation. Excellent.

Y'all forgot about vacuum advance. SBC's love direct vacuum advance. BBC's will miss fire at idle, they like ported vacuum advance. You have to play around the more change from stock you have. Even stock, the above holds true.

Great video. I just learned a ton by watching this video.

Wow Dave before the roadkill days

thanks for taking your time explaining this its been a real big help to me big thumbs up mate

@louevilmetalhead in a modern car the ignition control unit is the modern equivalent of the mechanical distributor. it needs a bit more input from a crank position sensor and cam position sensor to be able to 'tell' each coil in the pack when to fire. The timingcurve is programed into an EPROM chip inside the ICU. (equivalent: flyweight advance and vacume advance.)

Dude its "fryberger" the blond dude is fryberger from the car show ROADKILL!!!! how cool!

For a big cam BBC or SBC you need min 18 or higher initial timing with a MSD that would be the black bushing, use the one light (silver) and one medium (blue) spring.

@catburner white smoke is water, blue is oil, black is excessive fuel / rich mixture

Wow, this is so informative and easy to understand! Thanks, guys!

Good information! However, this only applies to distributors without vacuum advance. For you guys with standard engines and distributors this is not the correct procedure. You have to get specs for your particular engine and check it to them. Note: Timing with vacuum advance connected could very well be about 30-45 crankshaft degrees advanced at about 2000 rpm.

This is interesting. My ready to run MSD came with he heavy spring and green stop bushing installed. Being a ready to run you qould think guys would mainly use it for mild engines. The way it comes it only allows about 16/17 degrees of advance at 3200 rpm. the car likes around 10 degrees at idle so i was only getting about 26 degrees total advance. The SBC ready to run should come out of the box with blue springs and the silver stop bushing installed and I feel it would be way more "ready to run"

@mariahkraft Depends on the car. If the car is using a CC distrbuter (common on late mid 80's chevy that used CC Q-Jet's) Then the timing is computer controlled and pretty much hard programmed into the chip. The only "setting" that is done is simply unplugging the data cable on the distrbuter it setting it to true TDC at idle and plugging it back in. There is no real adjustment to them. Short of reprogramming the chip (its written in stright assmbley so good luck with that)

@TORIANO50 something might be pinched. check your shift linkage when you put it in reverse. either that or you might have a bad motor mount.

@PsychoFreke The best way is to remove the heads and locate #1 cylinder...rotate engine with a breaker bar to get #1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center)...you can then mark you balancer with the "neat little white strip" which are quite cheap...(make sure you put on the white strip with "0" lining up with the pointer that is bolted to the engine)

Classic Mullet on Freiburger is just fun to look at lol

Awesome guys. Thanks a lot. I have been looking all over youtube for a good, descriptive, video of this process. Now I just need to buy a timing gun.

This is an excellent vid, very informative and explained simply.

Brilliant video. Informative and easy to understand. Thanks!

Amazing free course. And very good lesson. GREAT.

Well done easy to understand, keep them coming

FREIBURGER 😂😂😂

I thought "Haha, this dude looks like DF in the thumbnail, Imma check it out" Well, I'll be damned. It is, indeed, a young DF.

almost forgot but essential: START by ensuring that the engine has the correct spark plugs which are gapped correctly. That the dizzy has a fresh condensor and points and that the points gap has been set correctly. Use a good clean cap and a good rotor. (3)

That one dude seems like he knows cars and is a good presenter. I think he should stick with this “Car Videos” thing.

thanks for video guys I been watching this over and over to understand better .I went ahead and bought a nice timing light to check it I'm not having any problems but good to set it up for correctly .however the mark on the balancer on my 79 Corvette l48 engine is way after the angle tab readings .how can I check that now .does it have to be withing the indicator tab .or mechanic set it up like that on purpose after he put a crane cam on it .thanks

great job fellas, very well explained, now im an expert.

You can either adjust the vacuum advance for less timing, if its adjustable or leave the vacuum advance off and just run mechanical advance.

Very informative, well filmed, I understood it.