My man, the increase in confidence and ease you have in this video compared with just a year ago is remarkable, especially given you haven't sacrificed your straightforward style. Great video, and great channel.

Have you ever tried using just the glass with a little polishing compound rubbed onto it? On first use, you're rubbing the bevel on new polished glass and only the compound is working on the steel. But, after a short while (and for ever after), the glass becomes frosted as the surface is roughened by the friction and the compound. Now the glass surface itself is finely abrasive. Not only does this act on the metal but it also provides a key to hold the polishing compound so more of it remains under the steel as you work on it. I don't know how this compares with other methods but it works fine for me. The only thing abrading the glass is the polishing compound (which is also abrading the steel) so the frosted surface never gets any coarser. I also tend to use it as a strop only using a pull stroke. This removes any burr. What I've found with leather strops is, because leather has some give, it tends to round off the edge at a microscopic level (I have a microscope and have made comparisons). The difference is very slight even at high magnification... but it is a difference. Glass, having no give, keeps the plane of the bevel absolutely flat because you don't get the compressed leather riding up over the edge as the tool passes over it. I use a diamond stone with #400 on one side and #1,000 on the other. I then go to a fine Arkansas stone and then to the glass to initiate the edge. After that, I just use the glass to restore the edge. The diamond stone (well, 'slab') and the Arkansas stone were a bit expensive but I don't see them wearing out in my lifetime (which, at 73, there probably isn't much of that left). I was watching some footage of a Japanese craftsman sharpening a kanna iron and he was saying that the objective of sharpening a blade is to achieve nothing. It's that point at which the steel becomes nothing that does the cutting. Interesting thought. Probably Zen or something.

Thank you, I came across this quite accidentally. I set up a similar system to sharpen my swivel knife blades that I use for leather carving. I had used automotive sandpaper. I picked up some lovely tips and I appreciate your presentation. I didn’t know that lap paper existed.

I just bought sharpening system and set it up like you talked about on the last video. Great system and easy to use. Thanks for the tips.

This is the first that I have seen sharpening stones “paper” film! Cool!

Great video. Really appreciate your editing. Thanks for taking the time to create meaningful content.

Great info for an inexpensive alternative. Sharpening, like a lot of woodworking things, is a rabbit hole all unto itself filled with BS. Thanks for this one, Jodee. Have a happy, safe 4th.

Thanks so much! I just bought this system from Tay Tools. Your videos are great!

Being fairly new to woodworking (a few projects under my belt in the last couple of years), I know I need some sharp chisels. I've been wondering how much it was going to cost to get started with some sort of sharpening system and I think you've answered my questions. I know this isn't the ultimate solution, but it gets me started. Thanks, as always, for your thoughtful and thorough content.

Jamie, THANK YOU for the fantastic presentation! I find there aren't many that want to delve into the explanation of chisel sharpening. One request please. Can you show how to get a chisel ready for this final stage of sharpening? I.E., if a chisel has been neglected (never sharpened and with various nicks and dings) and needs a complete grinder-based new edge. As one with limited time to advance my woodworking skills, I'd totally appreciate the advise. Thank you for helping to make this hobby more enjoyable and keep up the amazing tutorials!

Great video as always. This buddy definetely knows how to save your money and give you tips! Thumb up for the great presentation!

Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!

Great option for sharpening for those on fixed income like myself. Thanks

Narex brand chisel made in Czech Republic in an american woodworking video? How cool! :-) Greetings from the Czech Republic!

Good stuff, both the process and the presentation. Thank you.

Thanks for this! I desperately needed an affordable sharpening system. I purchased the kit and honing guide; hope you make a commission.

Man you’re good at explaining everything. Thank you for the info

You have convince me, saving money and getting a great edge on my chisels are a plus. Thank you

I used this diamond film system from LV. It's very good and economical but I found I bought the range 3 - 4 times a year. If you catch an edge on the emulsion it's done. After doing the math I realized the investment to just get diamond stones is worth it. Less maintenance.

Pretty impressive!!

Well done. Thank you.

I wish I could ever come across something like "scrap" Walnut.....

On ur honning device what do you measure it to to get angle

Very cool! Thanks.....

Excellent presentation. I was under the impression, from other KZfaq channels, that you could only sharpen on the ‘pull’ stroke? Keep up the good work!

TY I ordered the kit, hopefully you get a little commission.

Excellent presentation! I have struggled a lifetime on sharpening my carving knife blades. Under an inch to 2 1/2 " long. I buy hand forged blades and make my own handles. Blades come very sharp but rough sides as they are forged. I like to buff blades to mirror bright. But there goes my sharp edge. Blades are curved to straight. Maybe a 12 x 3" price of float glass for smaller blades. My whole problem is maintaining the angle during sharpening. I always roll the edge. Lansky doesn't lend its self to small detail blades or curved blades. Help!! J

Awesome!

Question for you on burning a tabletop, the tabletop is sanded before the burning do you do a light sanding again before polyurethane

Wow that is sharp!

You r The Boss!!

I tried this following Johnathan Katz Moses video but had mixed success with the lapping paper. I would buy an oil stone and then strop on leather to get an edge that will cut hair and paper. I mean it's not a terrible idea but I'm not sure it's a durable as diamond or standard oil stone.

Nice one ,

What’s your process in using the strop?

Excellent video. Well explained. Congratulations on not tearing the film on the upstroke - you are doing something that I struggle with; I do occasionally tear the film on the upstroke. Do you put cutting compound on a strop? I have 2 strops; one with compound (I have used car paint compound if I’ve run out of the proper paste or bar but regularly use metal polishing compound); the other strop is just leather. I have seen some use the flesh (rougher) side of the leather; like you, I use the tanned, outer, smooth side. I don’t know that the result differs but my logic is that smooth is better for a final polish. I agree about micro bevels on plane and chisel blades only because it seems to me that there is less to touch up and therefore, less time required. If something takes less time, I’m more likely to do it. David Charlesworth is, rightly, a renowned woodwork teacher. I think he invited the ruler “trick” to put a very small micro-bevel on the reverse side of a plane (never a chisel) blade. I do that, not because i really understand the science but because, if David is sure it’s a benefit, who am I to doubt that? At some point, I’d be interested in your view on the DC finishing bit. Please keep up the sensible, no-gimmick, reasoned videos which show everyone, but particularly people on the start of their woodworking path, that the basics of woodworking are not hard; don’t require huge investment and should be practiced; practiced and…practiced. When you have the basics, like sharpening, like sawing to a line, like accurate measuring, then you will get satisfaction because the fundamentals are not letting you down. Apologies for the long post - don’t sleep well. Perhaps a video on how to think through the correct order of making something. For me, it starts as an idea; goes to a sketch; a lot of thinking about what is possible, what is going to be pleasing to the eye and perform its function. Then to timber selection; what timber is suitable but also, what do I have in stock. Then timber selection (air dried or kiln dried; straight grain or figured etc.) then the start of preparation on the planer, table saw or band saw, planer or whatever you have. I think it’s also important to be flexible about your design. Sometimes, the timber shows you a different way; perhaps a better figuring, perhaps a knot in the way but also, you think of a better way whilst going through the making.

ive been wondering. everyone talks about "float glass". whats that and can i just use a piece of glass i have thats relatively as thick as the one youre using and be fine?

Where can I buy the kit

I have a 300 and 600 diamond "credit card" sharpener i bought to sharpen my router bits. Will the 600 side be enough get a edge sharp enough on a chisel? I wasnt sure if it was my technique or I need to up the grit

Really fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃 I'm going to make something like that for me as well! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Yep, that's sharp

I use glass cleaner as a lubricant and it works excellent without the mess of WD40 or honing oil. It does not effect the adhesive on the lapping film and is actually quite slippery. Give it a try...you won't be disappointed

Get video jodi, seems like a great system

I'd say you want to hit the strop before you notice it getting dull. Get in the habbit of hitting of making a few strokes on the stop often.

I'd frost the glass by sanding it first. It will still be flat but it won't slip around.

try now spur endgrane..... wallnutt is easy its dense

Can I get your chisel sharpening kit in the uk if I order it on Amazon?

7 different grits tho? I think we can get away with four and have the same sharp edge.

Just thinking about you so hello there hope all is well I’m looking forward to seeing your next video

Are 'scary sharp', 'insanely sharp" and 'ridiculously sharp' legitimate gradations of sharpness? And is there a method by which I can determine the current sharpness level of my tools to know whether they can be improved?

I hope this comes to europe and not just america

Show how you use the strop.

nice....... all grits rite there so no need 2 change out stones or whatever.

Nubie question: Where can I get one of those metal holder thingies to keep the angle right? And can I do hand plane blades this way too?

This is awesome info, but I'm disappointed that you didn't mention how you learned it from another KZfaq channel. Ie, I saw the exact same thing presented by Stumpy Nubs a few weeks back.

Where have you been man?

Jodi (SP) I miss your videos it’s been 5 months are you coming back?

Quick question on Strops, which side of the leather is best to use, the polished side or buff??

$25, is it true?

conclusion: the paper's initial cost is less than a stone.

Nice concept. However, the "wheel" on the chisel holder isn't machined too well (sometimes has a burr) and can damage the lapping film. It's generally a good idea to give it a finishing pass on the lathe or to make a wheel from nylon stock. WD40 doesn't do much for the honing process. It's an anti-corrosion product, not a lubricant. You can use baby oil or plant-based lamp oil (the non-toxic variant) and save some money. Also, any chisel should be checked for flatness before you sharpen it...

Your tools should serve your needs, not the other way around.

08:50 stop! First make the underarm shaving test.

I sharpen mine for f..k all.

Do you ever build anything?

Amazing video!!! Thanks but I just have to say WD 40 is NOT a lubricant, it's a water displacer that's what WD stands for.

BS!

Old skool: In that at soon as I see tattoos all credibility and trust ends. Good luck on your journey.

Thing? Say what it is and stop wasting our time!