Details please?

Yeah details!

Explain

Waiting

vid ?

Update !!! Still running

@@korez7449 so you soldered the two “pads” together on the back with a wire. Which gauge?

@@dctrklein5975 i dont remember

But yeah bridge

Happen yo have a video or pics of what to do?

Yes it handed

Squeezing the shunt wires together has absolutely zero effect. They are in parallel so there is no current flowing from one to the other. The reason why some squeeze them together is: 1. They have no idea what they are doing. 2. It forms a trough that holds solder better. And the solder is what allows current to bypass the resistors. The job of the shunt resistors is to create a very accurate resistance, such that when there is current, it creates a very accurate voltage drop. Then the controller measures that voltage drop and goes to its lookup table and sees what the current is, and then uses that current in the feedback loop of the controller. So if you have a 35a peak controller, and let’s say the shunt creates a 1.000v drop at 35a, when you create a low resistance pathway, the voltage drop might only be 0.500v, so the controller THINKS its only 17.5a and will allow 70a to pass through, which creates the original 1.000v drop. But the thing to remember is, the Chinese aren’t giving anything away for free. If it was reliable at 70a, they can simply program it to allow 70a, and sell it for $10 more. The problem is, there are many edge cases where the controller can only handle 35a all day, uphill. Against the wind, etc. but it will get hot. If you mod it to 70a, and go up a long hill, or have a dragging brake, or some extra load, the controller, motor and even battery can get damaged.

​​@@imho7250or but does work I should no the bike has more power. What you do is write to Chris's crossing wires he will explain about what is what he's a wiz kidd on ebikes an electrics. Your taking about something you haven't done it works the best on controller 32 +2amp I sold that bike eight month ago and it still working fine

@@colinwhite144 , you are welcome to have Chris verify my comment. I have done it before. And i know controllers. I also know process control systems, including PID and feedback loops. I know Chris has stated that connecting the shunt wires together does something, but he’s wrong and he will admit it if he just thinks about it. I think Chris is doing a lot offering help so im not trying to start a war with him. I know he thinks putting alligator clips on two shunt wires allows current flow between them, but its the width of the jaws on each shunt that’s decreasing the resistance. The fact that you did 8 shunt mods of 100 shunt mods means nothing if you have no clue what the shunt wire is for oe how adding a conductor in parallel reduces the resistance, the voltage drop, the feedback signal. What you can’t comprehend is that initially, the shunt mod on a bike will increase acceleration, but not top speed (if it significantly increases top speed it’s going to burn up). This means controller puts out peak amps and then goes back to the same cruise amps as before, so the controller can cool down. But if something changes that increases load, that modded controller can burn up, it can overheat the motor, and it can do permanent damage to the battery. If you were an engineer, you would understand everything has a built in safety margin. Doing a shunt mod merely eats into that safety margin. It doesn’t magic beef up every component needed to be 200% stronger. In my shunt mod, I used a clamp meter, checked the peak current before (about 13a) and then checked after (about 15a).this was a very conservative mod. However, i upgraded my motor from geared hub to direct drive, and then the motor RPM was never allowed to reach the controller set point. So it put out 15a continuous. It got hot enough to cook an egg on, but didn’t burn because I’m monitoring it. What do you think would happen of it modded it to 25a? Its still would not spin the motor fast enough to reach set point RPM, so the amps would stay at 25a and it would have destroyed the controller. So I tell EVERYONE who wants to do this mod, its and ENTHUSIAST action, for fun and learning. If you need a reliable extra 50a buy a more powerful controller. They are dirt cheap.

@@imho7250 the controller I had the mosfats were in single form yours is different mine are separate held with screws it's a better system than buzz bar where mosfets in a line. I new how to do it but got in touch with Chris's he has video some lads put solder on shunt bars to thicken that doesn't work you have bring them together then run solder along the top. Another way to beef up controller is to apply solder strips to buzz bar the thicker to solder you get more current through the controller but you gave to carefull it doesn't touch side of controller I've done quite a few and it does work. I've had lads ask me about different things and I always say emty the capaserters because the current in them normally three or four can kill you. Another good way to get speed from controller phace wire is use thin brass lug connection same on motor it increases speed but you gave to make sure it doesn't get to hot I've done that now on a 2.000wat 45amp controller battery 52v 20amp fuse bertween battery and controller 35amp top speed on stand 51mph on road 45mph Dan on motor when I come back from a 10mile run controller cool battery cool connections cool you can't get better than that midtbbikes get hot or warm mine doesn't. Regarding what yo no I'm eltric engineer retired I'm 75yrs old

@@colinwhite144, well my controller only had one shunt wire, and I added solder to that one wire, which of course decreased the resistance, and the controller then allowed up to 15a. Connecting two parallels shunt wires together does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. as I said, fhe ONLY benefit in squeezing them together (if you have more than 1), is it forms a trough that a thicker bead of solder can lay in. I know you have absolutely no clue about electricity, but if you read other comments, if they really want to go crazy, they solder a thick copper wire to the BACK of the board, between the pad for the battery (-) wire and the (-) mosfet bus. Others solder copper wire or sheets to the shunt wire(s). As long as it decreases resistance between those two pad, there will be a lower voltage drop, and the controller will be fooled and allow more current. If you cant see that there is ZERO current flow between the two shunt wires, thats going to be a problem. Chris knows enough to look at the back of a board and say “oh yeah, no current will flow from shunt wire to shunt wire, only along the wire”. There are also some idiots out there who think the shunt wires actually limit the current to the rated amps, due to their resistance. They are totally hopeless. Lol. All the shunt mod does is modify the feedback signal. It’s like if you had a U-haul truck with a 50 mph limiter inside the speedometer. If you put a 3:2 reduction gearbox on the speedometer cable, now when you go 75 mph, the speedometer shows 50 mph. And the new limit is 75 mph. Chris is busy trying to teach knuckleheads how to get electrons from one parallel group to the next one, so I don’t want to disturb him. My comments are for those who can actually comprehend basic concepts. If you were an electrical engineer you shouldn’t be making such simple mistakes in current flow. I can understand you not understanding controllers, but only Sleepy joe could have done something all his life without knowing the basics. Im in my 60s. Draw a simple picture. A big black negative wire, soldered to a copper pad. And now another piece of copper that goes to the mosfets. Now draw two wires to bridge across from one pad to the other. Now draw a wire between those two wire. If you think any current wants to flow across that last wire, I cant help you. If you solder a wire diagonally across the shunts, of course the electrons will take the path of least resistance and go over the wire. But only because its a shortcut Past the resistance of the shunts wires,

Hey there! So to me that sounds like a Hall sensor or connection problem, I’ve only seen this problem occur when the phase wires of the motor aren’t matching or if the hall connector has a loose wire. If you don’t find either of those problems it could very possibly be the motor

@@MarcosRamos-hn5iw I try another esc/motor ,2000w kit this time and i got same probleme, it that possible that came from rear and front sproket allingment ?? That look good for me but im not an expert . Work perfect whitout load . strange problem!! :S Thanks!

@@yourfactstory no it won’t be in the controller, it’ll be in the motor itself, it has 3 little hall sensors and could be possible one of them went out or a wire popped off one of them, if that you take the back motor cover off you will see which sensors I’m talking about.

@@MarcosRamos-hn5iw sec motor/esc i try , same problem, is that possible that came from the 420 rear/front sprocket aligment ? They look good for me but im not an expert . Forgot to tell, I also follow these step to reverse the polarity and that work perfect on my other ebike . kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e56lrMKqv9WmfZs.html

No I installed a 52v on mine is working fine more power thou…

I mean yea, it’s IPA and evaporates right away and also pouring it helps push fod away. Don’t know what you’re trying to get at with this comment.

I’ve ran mine for a while and it’s been doing good, also running a 60v battery on my 1800w controller, the controller in the video is a friends controller that wanted it do e

Just gotta be careful not to go full throttle for too long, and avoid going on hill. Been driving with the shunt mod and the motor heat up faster than the controller so the motor is more of an issue. Just dont push it to far and it should drive many kilometer

Went through 2 motor because of burnt hall sensor, but the controller is though as shit it can resist more beating that any other chinese controller i've had in my life