Thanks for letting those other issue go, Bubba G all your videos are flawless, I couldn't find a single mistake.

@@DixonHill C jgìjjķh

7 years ago but still made me chuckle :D "helpless skill-less consumer of disposable resources" - that comes on my "What are your expectations" page what i DONT want as an employee lol

You’re welcome.

Because the wires were so thin and frail, I had to chop off the end and start over several times before I got it right. I lost probably a foot off the cable. :-)

Don't worry, we've all done that. good job on getting it working!

விஷ்ணு கார்த்திக் Typical German products

Solder seriya otte matudhu da

These hair like wires are covered with enamel and most of the time have a string entangled into them. Don't remove the string (it will make the wire even weaken and impossible to work with). Just tin the wires as they are (the string will melt from the heat and the wire will get tinned before melting). Then tin the connector. Then touch the wire to the connector and touch it with the soldering iron.

change your wires, get better sound

Red-Right as you mentioned Green-Left Yellow/Gold/Brownish-Ground

I also have sennheiser and my 3.5mm jack broken, as I see its common problem

Meee

I saw a comment about a CB external speaker. Besides troubleshooting the basics (inserting the plug all the way into the jack, checking for a breaks inside the wire by wiggling the cable, or checking with another speaker) I can think of two possibilities. First, the speaker has a Tip Ring Sleeve or three connections and I've seen CBs work with only a Tip Sleeve or two connections on the 3.5mm jack. Second, it could be a bad plug on the CB, since the internal speaker is connected through the external speaker jack, so that when you insert an external speaker it interrupts the signal to the internal speaker as to allow the maximum volume (and matching impedance). Sometimes the jack gets bent inside and doesn't fully connect. A repair technician would open the CB and put jumper cables on the jack from the inside solder pins to bypass the jack. There are a lot of CB repair techs at truck stops. Thanks for watching.

2:44 maybe the problem is not those videos you've watched.. ;)

What flux r u using? Google "tinning' and that should help. Good luck m8

To remove the white string and enamel

The green phone will be the same, but the pink will have a difference scheme.

You need to use a multi meter. The tip of the jack is left channel so place one lead of the meter on the tip and touch the wires coming out and test for continuity. Which ever gives you a reading is the left channel wire. If you have an analog meter you need to use a 9v battery. Connect the tip (left) to the + side of the battery pole then do the same as before. Which ever wire is showing continuity is the left channel. The meter should beep when a connection presents itself. As the video states 3.5 mm plugs are universal ..the tip is left the ring is right and the base (sleeve) is ground. Great video btw thanks guise

@@MrLucifuge1973 Some jacks have a tip, ring, ring, sleeve layout. for the microphone. do you know what is the universal layout for these jacks?

@@Aimismyname Yes. These are TRRS jacks. Tip - Left audio channel Ring - Right audio channel Ring - Ground Sleeve - Mic

follow the microphone wire guide. 2 is hot, 3 is not, 1 is ground. Don't allow the pins to get too hot otherwise the plastic will deform and the connector pins will not make good contact.

Thanks

+S.K. Achtwone Thanks for asking. The holes are nice and help hold the cables in place while you solder. Although they are not necessary. Tin the end of each wire then tin the wing, tin just means apply a thin layer of solder. Then sandwich the wire between the wing and your soldering iron. Hold the wire in place and remove the iron. Once the solder has cooled it will hold on to the wire and you have a good solder. Out of curiosity where did you get the tip?

+Dixon Hill Thanks 😎👍

+chunkymonkey2782 www.mcmelectronics.com/product/27-7880 These are my personal favorites. All metal.

+Dixon Hill Thanks for the tip. also, noob question, but i was wondering if the type of connector will affect the sound quality and/or durability

Durability yes, quality no. Ease of solder"ability" yes. I don't like using plastic on anything that isn't a permanent install. But I'm a buy one good quality item if I can afford it instead of buying 4-5 in my lifetime

+Dixon Hill arg, that shipping cost from MCM is killer. but all the other ones I found on amazon have poor reviews :(

yeah, I tend to buy in bulk when I make an order at MCM. Shipping is a nuance. I stop by will-call when I'm in Dayton.

If your making a jumper cable like what we made, make sure the red cable is on the same tab on both connectors. If you replacing a connector, do a continuity check on your old connector if possible and match the wiring, otherwise you will have to temporarily hold the wire on the tab while you use a media player that has a left and right pan to check to be sure the correct side of the headphones are playing audio.

Yes!

I think your find this information helpful. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jdKCrLSWkrWZfXk.html

Arthur Winter yes, if you are using a trs connector, with a mono cable, your left and right on your connector would be sharing/splitting the same signal from the shielded wire in the cable, and the remaining bare outer copper strands of the cable would be the ground on the connector.

You will need to use the continuity testers on your voltmeter to find which color goes to its respective Tip Ring (Ring) Sleeve. Then reference what device you are connecting to Pin Out. Example: PlayStation has a different pin out than XBox/Apple.

Can also use forceps, Vise grips, etc. Use needle nose pliers closed tight via a rubber band on the handles. Be creative.

Well yes, there is a tip a ring and a sleeve, the sleeve is normally ground, so without that sleeve, nothing will work. Now I'm imagining you you meant something different than the sleeve or ground. If your talking about the 4 pin phone headset connector (tip, ring, ring, sleeve) that extra ring is for a microphone, so you could get by without it. If your talking about a shield inside the cable, that would be helpful to keep cell phone interference out of your headset. I'm just guessing what you meant, let me know.

***** Yeah, Something like that, I have a cable that has a copper external shield between the isolation and the actual black and red cables, I just connected them into the long (ground) metal thingy in the jack and it worked nice. So I was just asking if what I did was correct. (my cable doesn't have a tinfoil shielding, just a bunch of small copper wires around the main B/R cables.

Can you make a video showing what your trying to accomplish and upload it to KZfaq and send me the link? You’re talking about a TipRingSleeve ¼” to ¼”? just to guess, If your source is mono, using a stereo cable won’t make it stereo. Tip=signal RingSleeve=Return

@@DixonHill Thanks for reply, I teared more of the wire apart and it actually has 3 wires, One green, One red and One copper, the other one I have with the jack plug has 3 wires too, red white and yellow, but could not managed to link them correctly I guess, I linked red to red green to white and copper to yellow, I can only hear the right speaker after soldering those wires togheter.

You are correct you only need ground and 2 wires. As long as they are soldered/connected to the same contact on both ends it’s fine. Personally I would use the clear as ground (S), red as left (T), black as right (R), and snip the blue (which would be the mic or second R of the TRRS).

@@DixonHill thank you so much. I was looking like crazy for this answer online. This really helps. Take care.

40w is good enough!

+musicaman68 The pellets are just molten solder that has cooled. Spraying a mist of water on a flat surface has the same result, but much smaller pellets. If you are getting pellets on the connector leads of the jack you're adding too much solder. Some people like pooling solder on a connection, then use a solder sucker to remove the excess solder. The wires won't solder to the jack if you don't have the right amount of heat, not enough heat and the solder won't melt and/or the solder won't soak into the jack. You should heat up the jack lead with the solder iron then bring the solder to the jack lead. Also the wires won't solder to the jack if the jack is hot, the solder will melt so quickly that it will not soak to the connections, it will run off just like water. I hope this helps. Good luck. Soldering is a skill. It takes time to learn.

If the cable only has 3 wires,that means it doesn't support input, only left output, right output, and ground. Leave the connector for microphone/input bare and wire your L, R, and ground.

The correct answer is, until it melts the solder, you may need a different solder iron to quickly get the solder molten, but short enough to keep the circuit board from warming up and de soldering a different component. You need a hotter, more expensive, more wattage iron. Which also means you need to be more careful with how much heat you apply. Also if you're tip is burnt, looks rusted, instead of shiny, you need a new tip. Don't burn up your next one by leaving the iron on for a long time.

Thanks for your answer, Dixon! How long would one expect the iron be held on the wire, and on the terminal, as I mentioned in the comment, in order to melt the solder? Is a whole minute (or minuteS) not uncommon? And is it not uncommon to feel the solder heat up between fingers to almost too hot to hold, without it actually melts an inch or two away at the point where the heated element (braided wire or terminal) is touching the solder? Tip doesn't look rusted or burnt, it's shiny, as I've left it coated with solder,as per instructions I've seen online. Thanks again!

Click on the tiny wire part of the video, it's a thin clear insulated coating that is easily burned off.

Done! They work, but the right channel seems louder than the left.

You're right, I can't get to the linked videos either, Smaller: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jdKCrLSWkrWZfXk.html Larger: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h8mBoZqqvpfDpX0.html

I would solder(-) the trimmed end resistor(w) in where you would put the wire (=), then add a long shrink wrap(…) that will cover everything after it cools, then solder(-) the resistor to the wire(~], and use the shrink wrap as support. ………… =-w-~ …………

Are you connecting to a PlayStation, Xbox, PC, phone or other? Does it have a TRRS (four connections) or TRS (three connector)?

@@DixonHill other, it's for an instrument, and the three connector! Ty for helping me by the way!