We're you able to still get the USBcable to program the ultima? I'm out of luck here since they fell out of business. Currently running curve 4 and advance the timing to 28 degrees from the 25 degrees it sits on curve 4. Was hoping to get the cable to get the rpm range increased from 3k to 5k.

It’s the same product, with a different label.

what all mods have been done to the bike? That will kinda determine where to setup the ignition module.

From what i know when i bought it i was told it has a screaming eagle high compression heads, had a screaming eagle 8000rpm module and coil(dualfire) , i put a single fire coil, a dyna 2000i and 8.8 pkug wires with high comp plugs, havent started it yet , im at thebpoint of getting tdc and the static timing with the dyna light ,but its upside down

Your motor's firing interval is 405 degrees (rear cylinder to front) and 315 degrees (front cylinder to rear). On top of that, your stock ignition setup is a dual-fire, meaning that any time one cylinder fires, the other also gets a (wasted) spark. Bottom line is that any instrument, whether it's hooked up to the coil primary or uses an inductive pickup on a plug wire, is seeing both twice as many sparks as it should and they're also coming at odd intervals. Unless the instrument knows how a Harley works, it can't make sense out of what's going on. It's a common issue when using automotive based engine analyzers and dial back timing lights.

I'll tell you what, if you're running an S&S motor, you should really consult them for tuning advice. They have a vested interest in your success and presumably they know their product better than anyone else.

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE thanks a lot

All the static timing procedure does for you is sets the baseline for the curves implemented by the module. In other words, after following the static timing procedure, your available curves will match the diagram shown in the module's instructions. Yes, the static timing procedure varies from one module to another. We're only showing the procedure for the Dyna 2000 series modules in this video - although several other modules use the same procedure, but not all. There have been a number of different SE modules sold over the years. Unfortunately, most did not include curve data in their instructions. So you really don't know what you're getting. Aftermarket modules always include curve data so you know what you've got after properly static timing. Curve number 4 on a Dyna 2000/2000i module, after properly setting the static timing, is what we specify for our kits, because it produces maximum power and is safe for the pistons. This video is all about showing our customers how to set the module to achieve that. Incorrect setting of the ignition timing is the number one cause of scuffed pistons and we simply can't afford to have our customers making that mistake. So we want to show them exactly what to do. Unfortunately, all too many people are under the mistaken impression that more spark advance equates to more power so long as it's not pinging. We've dyno tested these bikes to death and nothing could be further from the truth. Running the timing up, with more aggressive curves and/or more final advance than we specify, makes the motor lose power, run hotter, and puts the pistons at risk.

I tried that. The LED don't come on at all anymore. It came on at first but only in full advance(clockwise)

Switch 1 is Off, switch 2 & 3 are ON, Switch 4 is Off, switch 5 is ON, switch 6 is off hope this helps

Thanks Dan, the bike was misfiring cause i installed the new pick up sensor 180 degrees around, its fixed now , switch 1 is off as ait is now and will adjust the others as you said, i only have 5 in all, thanks again.

They’re not advancing the timing, they’re RETARDING it, moving it from 30 degrees BTDC, to 28 degrees BTDC, which means that the plug will fire LATER rather than EARLIER, which will prevent pre-ignition (aka: ping). I know that it LOOKS like this is advancing the timing because 28 comes before 30, but if you think of the degrees BTDC like telling the time on a clock, you will see that 30 minutes to 10, is EARLIER than 28 minutes to 10 and therefore 30 degrees BTDC is EARLIER (advanced) than 28 degrees BTDC (retarded) It takes a bit to thought to work through this stuff, but a slow walk through what is actually happening at the flywheel as the piston rises on the compression stroke will help.

Hi Mike I set it as high as it would go without going in and reprogramming it. I set it to 7500 RPM

The stock ignition on a 1200S is dual plug, single fire. Generally speaking, single fire does not add power to a typical street bike. There are situations where it adds just a little bit though, specifically when you have an effective overlap event (i.e. strong exhaust augmented intake flow). There's a long explanation about that. The stock cams in your bike are "W" cams. W cams first came out in the 1998 1200S and continued through the end of the 1200S in 2003. But then all XL1200's started coming from the factory with W cams beginning in 2004, and then all XL883's started coming with W cams beginning in 2007. So it's a very very common grind. Although it's better than the "D" cams that all the other bikes got, it's still a really really mild cam grind. It's timing is oriented toward the lower rpm part of the power band. You can see a chart that compares the W cams to the D cams and the N2 cams here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#faq1

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE awesome! Thanks for the info! Wasn't sure if I'd get a response from an old video. You guys are great! I plan on buying just a 1275 jug kit from you guys down the line when the funds are there. What would be a good drop in cam to go with it? Would be using the stock heads with no head work done.

No, not at all. The 2004+ bikes are all crank trigger and there are no mechanical adjustments. You just plug in the module and set the dials. For all of our engine kits, we specify in the kit installation instructions to set the Daytona Twin Tec TC88A tp initial 2, slope 0.

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Awsome that bit easier. Thanks

Been running 2000i on my shovel for 25 years now.

Leave your VOES line open if you're not using a switch. Most of the time, when someone reports this symptom to us, it's because that although they have the key on, they forgot that the run/stop switch (on the handlebar) also has to be on for the module to have power. But another possibility is that you're on the wrong TDC. A 4-stroke motor requires two full revolutions to go through all 4 strokes. That means it passes through TDC twice. One of those TDC's is between the exhaust and intake stroke, what we call "overlap TDC". You don't want that one. You want the one between the compression stroke and the power stroke, i.e. "compression TDC". So if you're sure your module has power and the red light is not coming on, turn the motor over one full revolution to get onto the other TDC and try again.

The ideal time to light the fire is a function of the speed of the burn. These kits have a very fast burn and therefore make max power with a soft curve to match. A more aggressive curve makes less power, makes the motor run hotter, and puts the pistons at risk of damage. See this sheet for a typical example of what happens when you advance the curve: www.aswracing.com/dyna2000results.gif . Curve 1 on that sheet is the most aggressive curve and curve 4 is the softest.

Yes, your HD service manual describes the procedure.

It actually doesn't mention anything about static timing

Just about the 2 dots and timing light. 20 degrees btdc, I have an adjustable timing light do I set to 20 degrees or leave it at 0

Which TDC are you on?

I took the module out and drilled the slots to give me more room to turn. That didn't help. The module hits the set screws and can't be turned any farther. If I take the screws out I can see that I am only a couple of thousands away from it being in time . The light does go out without the screws. Note, I had this engine completely rebuilt by the Harley Stealership about 10 years ago. I do have a timing light and an old tach, I may hook the tach up and see if that gives me any different results. Like I said the bike runs good, no more backfiring, shifts much smoother and overall runs much much better. I should have done this years ago. Anyway, the old saying goes. "If it ain't broke don't fix it" Thanks for the reply and interest.

@@RobtJude And you're sure you're on Compression TDC, not overlap TDC, right? Every guy who's ever asked me about this particular issue, that's what it's turned out to be, not understanding how to get on the correct TDC.

I do have a compression tester. Time permitting this weekend I will try one more time. By using the compression tester, I will be able to discern that I am on the compression stroke 1st cylinder at TDC. I expect that I will need to use the starter to turn the engine. Once it starts compressing I will pull the tester from the spark plug hole and continue rotating manually. I hope you are right. If not I am still very happy with the way it is running. Update to follow. Thanks again for the help.

@@RobtJude A compression tester sounds like an awfully difficult and error prone way to do it. What's wrong with the way that's shown in the video?

Idle adjustment to the carb.

How did you go about determining which TDC (overlap or compression) you're on? If you choose randomly, you've got a 50-50 chance of being on the wrong one.

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE shall I test every tdc? Which is what I thought I'd done.

@@brittenv1000 If it was me, I'd just put it on compression TDC. HAMMER Dan shows how to find compression TDC in the video.

Well, the Ultima module implements different curves from the Dyna 2000i, that's the difference. All the switch functions are the same, but the curves are different. You can see the ultima's curves here: www.aswracing.com/ultimacurves.jpg and the Dyna's curves here: www.aswracing.com/dyna2000curves.jpg . Curve 4 on the Dyna 2000 is perfect for our kits and makes the most power and the motor runs cool an it's safe for the pistons. The Ultima however doesn't really have a curve that's suitable for our kits and when we have a customer who wants to use the Ultima, we advise him to get the programming kit and program up a custom curve that looks like the Dyna 2000's curve 4.

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE what would be best for a 79 shovelhead, will a Ultima work best or one of yours? And how much for one of yours with an external module?

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE I don't run voes on the dragbike since it's a all our race bike so the curve dosent really matter right ?

@@nikolaiownz Absolutely it matters. The kit will be damaged if the curve is not correct. See our kit installation instructions.

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE i dont run a kit from you sadly. I just have a 883/1200 12:1 bigger valve headwork with around 105 rwhp engine. I've used the Ultima on the engine as a 883/1200 all last year for dragracing without problems.

We don't have any millimeters around here, in fact I'm not sure they let them into the country. Pretty sure Customs confiscates them all at the border. But we have inches and they're better anyway. The plate is 3 inches in diameter, which is a 9.425 inch circumference. One rotation of the timing cup is 720 crankshaft degrees - remember, the cams run at half the crankshaft speed. So each degree is 9.425 inches divided by 720 = .013 inches per degree at the perimeter of the plate.

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Oh ok thats even tighter, lamo, your lucky, we're like a giant pudding bowl with a bit of everything thrown in lol. I was looking for greater moor course movement at the front 'of' to make it easier to see, and mark off exact degrees ect. thanx so much for your time, your the man lol..

2004+ Sportsters have crank triggered ignitions. There are no mechanical adjustments for the timing at all. This video only applies to Sportsters through 2003.

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE awesome thank y’all for the information.

Only if you want to reduce power and risk damaging the pistons.

thanks. I seen a sorta inconclusive vid showing it towards the rear, and it DID start first kick, but I always kept mine in the center, was just curious as to if it made any better performance or starting gains. Never can have TOO much knowledge

None of the Ultima's built in curves are very good for our 1250 & 1275 kits. When an Ultima owner wants to use one of our kits, we suggest he get the programming kit so that he can build a curve similar to the Dyna 2000 curve 4.

@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE so im guessing a ultima module is best fit for a stage 1 or two 1200 ? Anymore more than 1200 a 200i is better cause of the curves ?

@@Horrented The Ultima's curves are too aggressive for a motor with a fast burn (high compression and/or a turbulent chamber). It's not a function of motor size, it's a function of compression and chamber turbulence.

that's Awesome! Good to know!

Or welding wire on a small household flux wire welder