I frequently run 6013s at work, I wouldn't say it is the easier rod to learn on (beginners are typically recommended this rod because of how easy you can start an arc on it), but with that said I don't think it's a great rod to use if you dont have a whole lot of experience in welding. Based on my personal experience, I started learning stick welding with 6013 and I didn't actually learn the fundamentals of stick welding until I tried burning other rods like E7018 and E7016 mainly because I didn't know how to distinguish the puddle from the molten slag. A big issue with 6013s is the slag and the puddle, it is very easy to let the molten slag chase after the puddle and engulf the actual weld puddle causing severe porosity (the slag holes you see in the video), this is also due to the puddle not fusing to both walls on the base material properly. To avoid this issue, as Tim has pointed out in his video, you will need to establish a good puddle and never let the slag chase over the puddle. The molten metal puddle will look shiny and bright while the molten slag will be dark and more heavy/less fluid. A good tip when welding with 6013s is to always establish a good puddle when you first strike the arc, this is a good indication to make sure that you are fusing both sides of the wall in your weld. Remember, no puddle=no fusion. I hope my advice is useful to anyone that's using 6013s.

I’ve always had the classic love/hate relationship with the 6013. I learned the basics of welding in high school shop using 6013’s and those big Lincoln Idealarc AC machines with the crank wheel on the front. After graduation in ‘78 I certified and for the next 40+ years burned nothing but 6010’s & 7018’s. I loved the way 6013 started and burned, but hated chipping off the slag only to find slag inclusions and what I call “weld vaginas” in the end crater! I’m retired now, and much like you I have a fondness for those tombstones, and although I have and stick/TIG machines, I use the buzz box more often than not! I noticed on one of the KZfaq welding channels from India that the guy was using green 6013’s and not having any issues with trapped slag and blowouts, si questioned the brand. Turns out it’s an ESAB Sureweld 6013. I had my local supplier get me some and I can honestly say that by far that is the best 6013 I’ve ever burned! Highly recommend them to anyone with an AC low OCV welder! I get them in 5lb. plastic containers.

I use the 6013 all the time on my 230 amp inverter welder, so much fun, especially when you build sculptures, like spoon art. Thanks for your tips, I’m no pro, and never taken a course, but I still pride myself on the home welding jobs👍

Don’t own a welder, yet, thanks for quickly talking about the basic parts. Videos are fantastic and straight forward.

I wish all instructional videos were as clear, concise, well organized and clearly presented as this one. Thank you.

Thank you sir! Very educational! Now I know why I have holes and gaps in my welds with 6013. I guess my amps were too low. I should also better adjust my rod angle.

I learned to weld in high school shop 55 years ago on a 180 amp GE buzz box (which I bought at the school auction 45 years ago and still use occasionally), 6013 was the teaching rod for ease of arc start and weld appearance when done correctly. We also used 6011 for material over 3/16" due to better penetration when appearance wasn't an issue. I've just started dabbling with 7018 just for fun, and have used MIG and TIG mainly for years. Stick welding can be a lot of fun on structural steel. Great points, Tim! Thanks for sharing!

The very first rod I used was a 1/16" 6013 and still use it for small and thin stuff. I do more tacking and filling with the small 6013 than laying a bead but it definitely works well and I can use them between 20-50 amps with no problems. I use a 6011 regularly mainly because my area has a small selection of rods.

Hi Tim, interesting video. I grew up on a farm and we had a Forney 180a "plug and chug" (model looks like a "C3") transformer welder. We mostly used 6013 (3/32") as it seemed like you could do no wrong. That's what I learned stick welding with. We were usually fixing something we broke so it was far from ideal welding situations. Always seemed like it was real easy to lay it in there and get it put back together. We ended up with a box of 6011 (1/8") that I got pretty decent with. Dad hated it. It clearly had better penetration, and was generally noisier, more spatter, etc. It was a helluva lot easier to burn through thin stuff with it. But it also made better welds, it seems. Contrary to what you and others have said, the 6011 seemed harder to weld with, for me anyway. Right or wrong, that was my experience. Keep up the good work!

Omg, i faced the problem of the slug blending in the metal for the 6013 rod today. You saved my day, thanks sir.

Thank you very much for that, i been watching lots of welding videos over the years and i never been more happy with a good explanation and approach like yours!

So I just bought a Miller Master 161 S welder and purchased 6013 3/32 rods to try for first time. I'm currently in rolled in welding school, about half way through the course. I did like using 6013 but now only using 7018 1/8 and 3/32. Keep up them great video's.

Talked about and demonstrated exactly what I was trying to learn. Thank you so much for this!

Wow . . . now I know why my E6013 beads looks so bad . . . your video is very timely Tim . . . back to the shop for more practice! Thanks for sacrificing your time to help new welders!!!!

I like the way you keep an open mind on 6013s. This electrode is big down in Mexico. Also, the AC only buzz boxes are everywhere. Cheers, from El Paso Texas, take care my friend.👍👍

You’re videos are very helpful ( at least foe a newbie ). I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge.

You’re videos are EXCEPTIONAL!!! My go to welding guru!

Ive started practicing welding using electrodes, I usually do MiG or TiG, my main two have been 6013 and 7018. Your videos have been a HUGE help to this learning process

It's good to know. As always, you provide a good video tutorial. Moreover, your english is understandable even for not native english speaker person, like me. Thanks.

Very excellent video I’m over 60 and just learning welding as a hobby After months I’m just beginning to getting the knack of close but not touching while welding to hold a continuous strike now I can introduce your tips of angle of rod plus angle of direction travel and I think height of piece to you is important while learning so your comfortable and you can expand height and distance from the metal piece as you improve. I can’t download your chart unfortunately but it looks a great guide very excellent tuition and video great teacher thank you

you make some great videos for those of us who are beginners. Thank you sir

Excellent knowledge explained to the layman! I always look you up before projects. 🙏

I like the scenarios you always demostrate.

Thanks for the refresher, Tim.

Thanks for another great video Tim 👍 I find 6013 starts really easily and because of that it’s good for tackling parts. I don’t do as much stick welding as I do MIG but i do find all the points you make in this video to be spot on 🙂 Thanks!

This video came in handy. Just bought a $50 Hitbox stick welder. Didn't know anything about the sticks, so i just ordered the Amazon special. Turns out Hobart 6013 1/8". I'll be practicing with mostly thin steel tubing. I'll post my follies on my new U-Tube channel. Thanks for your insights...

Reilly appreciate the metric conversions, Thank you. Here 6013 is the standard for at home use. (Afrox Vitemax welds great)

I do the field maintenance weld jobs and fab welding for a relative who owns an Ag/Industrial repair shop. In the field we have a Miller Bobcat 250NT on the truck. I am currently beefing up the cow dividers in a feed lot's cow pens, where the ladies go to lay down under a small roof. Tighten all bolts and then we are wire brushing with a drill, and running 5/32 6013 between the C channel beam and the galvanized flat plates with bolt holes on the ends of the round tubing formed into dividers, keep them tight. Running my fine current control about 7-7.5 on the dial. Burns in nice. I am working kinda blind, witha wall right there, I can't lean in to watch my puddle. All by feel. Slight side to side oscillation, to direct my arc to both surfaces as I drag. It's burning in pretty good.

This guy has pretty good videos. I've seen many of them. Thanks for posting !!

Good sir, you are an absolute scholar when it comes to sharing information.. if only the teachers I had going through school had your skills and abilities to teach , I some what think I wouldn't be swinging a hammer for a living... thank you very much.

I have ran tons of 6013 and I come in at a 45° angle for my best results, like you said with a slight gap and definitely try not to thunderbolt it, I also run anywhere between 75 to 95 amps and I move slowly to allow my pool to build and get good penetration on both pieces on 1/4" plate with my ancient Marquette redi-arc buzzbox it's an AC machine. On work that may need some extra strength I cap that with some 7018, but I usually don't have to. I'd like to have an inverter setup like that, it looks nice. I'm not a pro though I've just been hobby welding and working metal for 20 years now, I love 6013 and have ran through pounds and pounds of sticks over the years, it's a fun and fairly easy stick just be careful on thin stuff you'll blow holes like crazy if not careful enough.

Another excellent video. Good information and practical advice.

Great rods, I use 'em overhead, uphill, downhill (for light applications where the bead has to look perfect) underhand, you name it. Great results. Even 2mm plate @30 amps.

Thank you very much for posting!

Thanks for the sheet, it's really helpful!

Great video. I love running 6013 Thank you

thanks buddy as a newbie to stick that really set me strait regards

Tnx Tim this video helped especially to me! Exactly what I need to know about thin metal!!

I asked for this in past, thanks a lot

A thousand thanks Tim. Am learning to weld, got myself a small DC welding machine. Goes up to 250 amps. I have been having difficulty with thin (1,2 to 1,6mm steel), when they are at right angles. I am using 6013, 12 gauge rods, using between 60 to 90 amps, DCEN. The weld is either sticking on one side only, frequently alternating sides. I try to zig-zag to spread the weld. I end up blowing a hole through the plates. I get a lot of slag between the two sides. I can't seem to see the difference between the metal puddle and the slag. Sometimes a weld comes out good, sometimes its a nightmare. I feel defeated. I'll watch this video 10 times more. Many thanks. Was feeling almost defeated, almost. Much love and respect all the way from Zimbabwe, Africa.

I haven't done any welding at all. I decided to try and repair a broken garden support post. The metal is absolute junk but it's what the manufacturer used....Made in China. So yesterday I did my first weld job [small but fun] I bought a DEKO MMA 160/200. A new hood gave me fits at first but finally settled down. All in all I'm pretty satisfied with the results. It ain't pretty but the post was repaired. Thanks for the video

Good demonstration bro

Hi, thank for the educational. I have never known the angles as self taught

Your a absolute legend I just started welding not long ago and using 6013 rods this video will help so much keep it up

Thanks Tim. Looking forward to practising some more. S

Thanks 🙏 Beautiful works

I have been struggling with my new inverter machine and 6013. I have a Lincoln buzz box like yours (30+ years), and I am going to do a test/comparison just like you did. I am a novice welder, but this 6013 makes me feel clueless sometimes. This vid should help.

Hello, all. i converted my tombstone 225 lincoln, to DC. Using 300 amp bridge rectifier, 600 volt. I also, installed about 65 microfarad capacitor, (large metal oval shaped cannister type, high voltage) across the + and --- negative side, of said rectifier. Then, i added a choke. This was made, using salvaged microwave transformer with all windings removed. Then wound welding cable , 5 turns, onto this core. This then was wired in SERIES with the + electrode. It welds the 70 series rods, better than the 6013 ones, but i can still weld with the AC side, as well. i installed welding plugs/sockets, so as to switch from ad-dc and vice versa. GOOD to all, attempting to improve themselves !!!

I'm 16 and I use basically nothing but 6013. I really like they rod I can make some good welds including multipass welds with relative ease. I want to learn 7018 but my stickmate is AC only. I tried those AC 7018 rods and they didn't work very well at all.

Hey Tim, thanks for some more schooling, I have a quick question, I have a Decko Pro welder the 160amp and I want to hook it up to 240v, and I was wondering what type of breaker I would need, like single pole 30amp or double pole 15amp, for the 120v side I have a 20amp breaker, and it works pretty good with that, I am new to welding, so I just want to try and do the best job that I can. Thanks.

VERY GOOD INFORMATION............THANKS

Wow! Way to go ! From Brazil 😀

Ooh man, your 6013 welds on 1/8 inch look so much better than mine, though you've probably welded more in one day than I've welded in my entire life. Good to know it can look that smooth though, and without doing over 100 amps! Thanks for the tips, I've got a 5lb box of 3/32 6013 just sitting waiting for me to burn them... I'll probably grab a pound of 7018 just to try out at some point. Got a few lawnmower related projects to get to. I know you've got the tig not the mig yeswelder, but maybe you have another cheapie machine with so called "synergic" settings, where you don't set ipm wfs and voltage but instead have like a material thickness and a kind-of amperage dial? All the info I can find online for flux core (I don't have a bottle yet) is more about the normal settings and the "synergic" ones my mig yeswelder has just baffle me. It's not easier if nobody else talks about the settings! I made a project with it, but it felt weird like I wasn't sure I was doing it right. (Part of that is probably because I had seen advice on that machine to switch it to mig mode for thinner material even with flux core, because it will let you turn it down lower, but then I had trigger delay from mig "pre-flow" I guess)

Thank you tim!!!

Hi Tim, thanks as always for your excellent videos. I still use my stick welder occasionally and find your electrode chart very helpful. Before I screen capture and print it, Is it available as a JPEG or PDF - or better yet - as a laminated "for sale" item? Thanks!

Top video Tim as always 👌 I do a lot of repairs on equipment out in the field I have a 7 and a half horse power Honda 200Amp AC welder I never had any issues and the only rod I used is 6013 but since I have started watching KZfaq I think it's a DC I need , I tried running a 4mill 7018 one time and my 200amp would hardly even light it up, if I bought a DC inverter could I still run 6013

Hi Tim I use the 6013 all the time being a beginner I have advanced quite well thanks to your previous video's, you suggested white chalk to me some time ago to keep me from wandering off my weld line it has helped a lot but but I still occasionally wander. I have to wear glasses for all occasions and seem to just see the ark, maybe I'm doing something wrong or do you think it may happen to other spectacle wearer's. Thank you so much for your video's they have been such a good help to me.

This is the rod I use in my high school class. I’ve found that it’s really easy to just move in a straight line at about 110 amps.

Thanks man 😌 that issue with the low amps on that 6013 I was having lol keep it up

Tim....for general mild steel work in good position I keep going back to 7014 (beautiful beads) which is often called contact rod. Your thoughts?....david

5:43: So that's exactly the result I was getting in my welds, welding thin vs thick plates. I assume I'll need to improve my technique to be allowed to use more amps. Any suggestions for welding plate with different thickness? Thanks for sharing your knowledge, un abrazo amigo!!

Thanks, got a few of my faults answered, and in the town I live we get only 6013, nothing else

Sir Tim, what is the best electrode to use for overhead ang vertical position?

Nice slag weld ,well explain amperes chart ,travel ,rod 6013

Fantastic 🙏🏼

Cool chart, where we can get a copy?

What is a good welder to start out with. Stick and mig. Thanks

I usually end up grabbing 6013's on anything 1/8" or thinner and then running on AC or DCEN so I don't burn through as easily. I find you have to lay the travel angle down a little more than other rods to push the slag to the back of the puddle(your angle looked great tho).

Hello. I am self taught and for my needs the 6013 is all I use with my 50 year old Lincoln 225.

Would you use your buzz box for structural welding?

Am going to try that type rod

Hi I have a question. Im new to welding and I know the basics but wanna ask- can you stick weld 220v regular steel and iron with 308L electrodes?

Build a steel yacht, 6013 rods, welder ac 230v, mounted a large capacitor on 230v supply smoothed out welding and appearance minimising grinding

Hi Tim, I'm fairly new to welding and to date have used only 6013 and despite trying my best to to follow your great instruction videos, I'm still producing poor welds including going through material, making a hole, spatter and also finding that many parts of the weld fall only on one piece of the metal and not the other. I have 2 questions for now. 1) How do I fix a hole created by going too slowly (I think this is most likely the cause as I try to stay close and don't go beyond 70-75A on 2mm thick square section) and 2) I try to clean up and re-weld most of my welds to improve their looks and strength. Is this recommended and do you have any guidelines for 'weld-fixing'. Perhaps this can be the subject of one of your videos! Thanks, Neil

Try 7014 for sheet metal, works great for me.

I mostly weld in a narrow gap around 30’ and its hard to maintain the half angle and stick always covers my viewing angle and doing so the flus travels before my stick in to the welding area. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance

Very nice

Hey I use allot of rebar what's the best amps for rebar using 6013

Hey Tim please help, What's your recommendation amp for 6mm thickness plates, Tee joints I'm using 6013 rod?

Wish I would have found this before and not after my run to tractor supply run and everything was sold out but this. 65a and I just couldn't see the pool like 6010 or 7018. Gonna try it on some sheet metal to see if that jazzs better.

Nice video 📹 👍

Tried 6013 today. I've only run 6010 and 7018. I think I like 6010 better. Anything less than an 1/8in it does just fine in my opinion.

i"m using this electrode but my welding skills was really suck but still trying to practice

What the best rod for a beginner to start with

I’m new to welding, should I go for 6013s or 7018s? I’m hoping to be welding sculptures etc. All advice will be welcome. Thanks 👍🏽

Thanks!!!

6013 is good for welding box cutter blades … a good overall “farm” rod…

Fantastic 👍

Needed this lol

02:43 1)Arc length (how far ur electrod is away from ur work piece). In general u dont want the gap really larger than the diameter of the metal part of ur electrod. If u run a 2.5mm electrod, then gap should be no bigger than 2,5mm. 03:16 2)U also cant drag the 6013 electrode right on the surface of the metal part, like u can do with the 7018. With 6013 if u maintain a 0mm gap on the surface of the metal, u will end up sinking into the slag and making a mess. So u do need to maintain a little bit of gap with 6013. 03:37 3)Rod angle. In order for the weld puddle to be even btw both sides, u adjust the rod angle. For a 90` filler weld, i want to bet at a 45`, but since gravity, then im gonna use like a 40` to make sure i get material on the upper plate of metal. 04:08 4)Travel angle. With stick welding u want to be dragging at about 10-15`. That just helps to push that slag back behind u. 04:28 5)Weaving. U can do a very small movement weave with the 6013 electrode, but Tim wouldnt go any wider than the weld pool. One of the biggest problems when u are running the 6013 electrode: If u use too low amperage, that can lead to ur slag looking ok, but once u chip it off, u see that it didnt fuse to both sides of the plate. It is very easy to let the molten slag chase after the weld puddle &engulf it, causing severe porosity. You will need to establish a good puddle &never let the slag chase over the puddle. The molten metal puddle will look shiny and bright, while the molten slag will be dark and more heavy/viscous. A good tip when welding with 6013s is to always establish a good puddle when u first strike the arc, this is a good indication that u are fusing both walls of the metal. Remember, no puddle=no fusion. When to use 6013 electrode? Probably best for sheet metal. In general for any metal that is 3mm or thicker, Tim recommends 6010, 6011 or 7018.

This is literally the video I needed! I've recently picked up a £150 DC machine and starting learning welding with 6013 rods. I was actually practicing today with 2.4mm rods on 3mm mild steel haha. 90 degree welds are super frustrating, as you've mentioned in the video. I really struggled to weld both pieces together, usually I end up with the weld on the bottom piece or the arc jumps from one to another. Definitely my complete lack of skill, as you've demonstrated it could be done well haha. Great video, I'm all up for more of these beginner 6013 videos! P.S. any suggestions on how to properly restart? Can't seem to get enough heat in the beginning and end up with the blob on top of the first weld :(

One question on this video: 6013 RC or RR? Thanx 🙂

You are the best

what is the best stick for beginner?

I have the same problem that you show at 5:48 in the video. At 75A it runs too cold. When I turn the amps up to 90A to get a good bead with 3/32", the rod gets too hot. It seems to work better once the base metal has heated up, but the first bead usually has lack of fusion and lots of slag inclusion when it's still cold. Another thing I notice is that when trying to make a weave bead the center of the bead will usually have a lot of slag inclusion. Something else is that when running vertical up the problems are magnified. Stringer beads in flat position seem to be about all that works fairly well. Now, I just use the 6013 rods for practice or when the welds don't have to look good or be strong. Might as well just use 7018 and have a good strong weld that looks right.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but my 80's Tombstone should NOT change setting unless powered off?.......I have been doing this with it for 40 years and she still gets it done!

Used a back step method on all welds had double chines no warping 3/16 plate m/s rotation of hull makes it easier

Informative 😀🎉🎉🎉

I don't have much trouble with them, but I do tend to weld on the hot side. I would have done a test weld at 80amps, that's where I would have begun . As you say, it's a bit subjective. I have an Excelarc 200 portable inverter that runs them smooth as, you do have to smack the amps in a bit though.

Hi Tim, does the 6013 need to be kept in a dryer or is storage in a container good enough? Which electrodes do need to be kept dry, or in an oven? Thanks.