Helped out a lot, thanks! My heater was good, 21 ohms, it was the control board.

While cleaning out under the fridge I went ahead and measured the amp draw while in defrost mode. Defrost mode causes power to condenser fan and compressor to be suspended for about 30 minutes. The draw of the heater element on mine was 4 amps for about 10-15 minutes. Then it just sat there for another 10-15 minutes with zero draw. At that point compressor and fan kicked back on. Defrost cycle happens every 10 hours of compressor running time and takes about 25-30 minutes to complete

Thats the video I've been looking for,

Excellent!

Hey Looking for defrost heater for refrigerator Toshiba model (gr-r5ate) Please advise for the heater model. Thanks

How hot does the heating element in a freezer defrost system at full capacity ? like mine is rated at 725 watts heater

Thanks!

Would like you to trace back to check/ replace timer

For defrost heater with an attached thermostat (like the one you mentioned at 1:45 in the video), why do you have to cool down the thermostat to closing temperature? Do you suppose to get infinite resistance at room temperature because the thermostat is not closed? If I get about 140 Ohm at room temperature, does that mean the thermostat is stuck closed? Does the resistance suppose to drop when I put the thermostat in icy water?

Good helpful video sir

My heater gives me 0.6 ohm...is it bad? Also i have two wire fuse after the heater which don't give continuity. I don't know if changing those will solve the problem if I've this value on the heater..any help? I don't know why there's a thermal fuse before the heater and two electrical fuse after it, I've never seen something similar in any other video

I've watched probably half a dozen videos related to this topic, and I've heard some various things in relation to CalRod type heaters and recommended resistance ranges. I have a Roper/Whirpool rt18akxkq09, the defrost thermostat has continuity at 0 deg F, so I'm fairly sure it's in good shape. But my heater is testing out at 34.4 ohm. I've heard elsewhere that 200-300 ohm is expected from CalRod type heaters, but here you say anything between 10 and 100 is good. Any advice for me? If it's not the heater, or the defrost thermo, then should I look to the timer in the lower cabinet next or what's a good next step of attack? Sorry to ask so many questions, I'm really trying to avoid paying out for another fridge, or hiring in to have this repaired. I really appreciate any assistance you might be able to provide!

Hie there, I'm looking for defrost heater for AEG Santo 78763kg

Could not see the multimeter display clearly. Very dark. Good info.

Mine is staying at 1. Am I doing it wrong? I have the glass tube type

Bro how to test the heater with thermostat

Is 62.2 ohms ok for a Samsung RF4289HARS ver 01 freezer heat element? Seem kind of lover element was frozen by drip pan hole!

Hello, We have an Ariston hotpoint SDS 1721 V/HA fridge that makes too much ice on the back panel. We've changed the thermostat, but there's always too much ice. Could you tell us what kind of problem there could be, and where is the defrost heater on that kind of model. It could also be a command card problem... Thanks in advance for your answer (We're writing you from France).

What if my thermostat and defrost heater test good ? What else can cause the the heater not turn on, pcm ?

Hi, what about testing when I have an assembly of heater and thermostat, not just heater only? Mine are together so I don't know which one is broken, the heater or the thermostat. Thank you.

I know this is an old video.. But thought I would give it a go. I have troubleshooted my way to either a defrost problem, thermostat/t-couple, or forbid.... A bad board. Is the general resistance of the element usually always around 50 to 200 Ohm? For home refridgs regardless of model? My unit (kenmore 106.566) froze up for the first time since bought in 2005. Have not checked the element yet until ice melts. It freezing up worries me, otherwise the compssr, evap fans, baffles, coolant all seem fine. Has to be a defrost problem. Aren't there also one or 2 thermistors/thermo-couples or a thermostat on the defrost assmbly? If testing the therms, is a continuity ok? . Or do the therms have a resistance range also before failure? I can change these sensors and the element out if I knew the exact points on the failures of the therms or heat element. Assuming the CPU board isn't bad. Thanks.

Hi Ryan, Thanks for this wonderful video. For SAMSUNG DA 47-00244u-00, what should be resistance reading at room temperature for a good defrost heater. My shows 140 ohms. Is my heater good ?

Do you have to remove the defrost heater in order to test it? My fridge is not cold so I left it plugin & unused for at least 4 yrs, now I empty & cleaned it in order to give it away. I find a big chunk of ice covering the evap fan motor, wiring harness, freezer coil down to the bottom tray of the fridge. I broke the ice off to find the fan motor has some rust & some wires broken off. I bought the new evap motor but the wiring harness is not the same. So I bought the used one that comes with the harness & defrost thermostat (exactly match & same OEM part no.), I just need to switch & splice the plugs (for defrost heater) since mine is bigger. The rest is plug & play but the fan attempt to spin for 1 sec & off. I tested the V on the new motor (133V) & on this used one (93V). The seller (eBay) said they tested the fan before they shipped & it works, they also said it attempted to spin & 93V means "It Works". Does this used motor still good (at 93V)? Right now my freezer can freeze the food & my fridge is cold enough to keep the food cold without the working fan. I don't know the temp on the fridge side but I saw a little bit of water on the bottom of the fridge turn into ice. Right now, I guess that it's either the defrost heater or the control board (or the evap motor). How to test the control board? I'm not mechanical or technical incline, I started to watch a lot of KZfaq videos regarding the fridge not being cold. I have Frigidaire side-by-side model: FRS26LF8CS8. I need help & advice. This will save me money not to buy a (good used) fridge. Thank you.

My old heater was reading 173 ohm. The brand new part I bought is reading 165 ohm. Seems way too high do you think?

On the lowest ohm scale I get 106 reading after leaving it in the freezer for 1/2hr and I get 102 after leaving it in a warm oven 100F does that mean my heater is hooped?

My fridge trips the RCD every 3 or 4 hours but otherwise operates well. Could that be a problem with the defrost heater? I thought it likely but above someone says it only energises every 10 hours?? Any suggestions appreciated

I read my heater 410ohms it is good or bad.

is it normal for inside the bulb to turn grayish black like the bottom one at 2:03?

I have a maytag MSD2554DRA that is kicking out a GFI outlet but it only does it after a number of hours. Could the defrost heater be the cause? There is no thermostat setting for the defrost heater . When plugged into a non GFI circuit it works ok so there must be a surge from the refrigerator causing it.

Mine defrost heater was burned out. The tube was black. I changed it out. Now everything is fine. I also changed the thermostat.

The refrigerator defrost heater in our Samsung refrigerator (RF28HFEDB...) has an integrated inline fuse. Testing across the whole assembly (heater + fuse) from one connector to the other produces 147 ohms. I would assume that both heater and fuse are good? True? If so, the evaporator's both sensors and fan are testing OK. Suggestions for other cause for ice build-up in the top of the evaporator coil would be greatly appreciated. Thx.

I followed this video to test a defrost heater i thought was having a problem and a brand new one - thinking I had to change out the old one. The continuity reading came out the same more or less. Am I doing something wrong? The Ohm value was well under 1.0. It was in the tenths and hundredths places of the decimal. The multimeter was set on the ohm symbol that says 2k

Is good 110 ohms?

Can I check the defroster just by just unplugging the clip and turning the fridge off instead of talking it completely off ?

Can i test the volts coming out of inputs to see if the control board is sending power?

How hot can a defrost heater be? Max temperature

I know you said you test all heaters the same. Just confirming that goes for the aluminum one right?

Hi, i didn't get a reading at all when touching the two heating terminals, but got one of 81.5 when I touched both volt meter ends to the same heating terminal, what does that mean please?

The defrost heater and thermostat test fine, but the coil defrost cycle isn't happening. What's the next suspect?

they really need to have the evaporator coil for freezer and cooler, so no more need for defrost heater, fan, and vent. Any vent ought to be piped outside the refrigerator, through the room temperature, instead of just straight down from freezer to cooler.

How to change the defrost heater in a Maytag freezer

mine got 50.7ohms.

So, 1.2 ohms is bad? Okay, there are wires on both ends. The other end shows 104.8 ohms. Maybe it's the temperature sensor? That shows nothing happening. OL

mine read 43 ???

I don't buy the comment "continuity test will not work on some defrost heaters because the ohm value is too high.....". A heater element, by design, needs to draw enough current to make heat...which means the resistance has to be low enough to create heat....under 100 ohms is typical....at 115VAC that's about 1 amp of current....if the ohm value is "too high" for a meter to measure, then the resistance is way too high to create any heat (current) at all...it's simple ohms law. A good heater with an 'ohm value too high' does not exist.

Useless