Glad the video helped out.

So many people just throw parts at problems. Congratulations for taking the time to test it first.

ardx1

@civic h22 all motor put the test leads together and it will show you resistance in the wires. My problem ended up being a faulty ignition module. The new one was bad out of the box. Dune buy the cheap ones bc they're bad oftentimes, I bet.

@civic h22 all motor it depends on the ohmmeter

+Juan Alberto Diaz The Ignition Control Module (ICM) goes to B. The ICM has built-in noise condenser. A get fed from the + battery. Secondary goes to the Distributor. A and the Secondary are in series. I don't think there is any grounding going on with the bolts. The spark plugs should be the ground. If I understand it correct. What I am describing, is how Honda did it in the 90s.

Your welcome :)

If you have a power supply with adjustable current limiting, these low resistances can be measured accurately by putting a constant 1A current across the terminals, and then using the DMM in voltage mode to read the voltage between the terminals. If you read 0.8V, that would correspond to 0.8 Ohms. This can be used to get measurements down to thousandths of an ohm by reading in the mV range scale of the DMM.

Sure, but you need a current generator and a voltmeter. In this instance using a simple ohmmeter is accurate enough, but wire resistance has to be taken into account.

1 foot of 22 gauge wire is about 0.016 ohms. Does not matter much. Also you need to read the manual that comes with your dmm. Not all dmm's work the same.

You'll find pretty significant variations just due to contact resistance with the probes. DMM use such a small measurement current you won't get any consistent measurements within milliohms. But if you're simply looking for ballpark measurements, then it's fine.

You adjust the scale on the ohm meter based on the predicted result. The first test should give a result less than 2 ohms (whether good or bad), so you would set the meter at 2. The second test would give a result of 15 - 21k, so you set the meter on 20k.

Usually, the car will turn over, but not start if the coil is bad.

@@tubejim101 Thanks. What about the module? Whatever my problem is, a new distributor fixed it. But now the problem is back. I'm wondering of I've got a bad plug wire or something that's burning something up the distributor. Both my ignition switch and main relay test good.

@@Funkedelic84 You can get a free testing at most auto parts store. They should be able to test your: battery, starter, and alternator. Bad batteries, and alternators, are often the problems.

+Robbie Gee Ohms setting. Your meter may be different then mine. My low setting is 200. The next setting I used was 20K.

cheers ill test it tomorrow fingers crossed it will be a cheap fix

Hit is with some wd40 and wait 10 minutes. Then grab the top of the screw with some vice grips, and break it loose. Make sure you are using a good fitting screw driver.

tubejim101 no luck with letting the WD40 penetrate the screw. I'll need to try out the vise grips. Thank you for responding!

No problem. I use the vice grips a lot for stuck screws. Next time I use them, I will make a video showing how I do it.

tubejim101 plz, that would be great! I had the boys come out and they were sweatin' haha

The coil case should be grounded.

Thank you :)

Need to have your battery, starter, and alternator tested. Most auto parts stores will do this for free.

@@tubejim101 I can't drive or anywhere and I'm not going to remove them. I've tested the battery and recharged it, tried jumping starting also. It's not the battery or alternator keeping it from starting. It cranks over good, just won't start so of a sudden. It sputtered twice one day going around a traffic circle and making a turn as it coasted and then the next day or started this. I don't have any codes. I'm wondering if it's a cam or crank sensor. If crank sensor was bad I wouldn't have any spark right?

@@thesetruths1404 Have you tried starter fluid?

@@tubejim101 yes, and it wouldn't start, but then I found my spark plug wells were full of oil (to the top of the plugs, evenly across all 4 wells) so I'm not sure if that was effecting spark at the time. I removed all the plugs, ohms checked them, checked gap, checked for spark on each plug and wire (all were good and spark present), and cleaned the wells out. I haven't tried starter fluid since the cleaning...maybe I should? I cleaned the PCV valve, it seemed to be possibly clogged, and I'm wondering if built up pressure from failing PCV valve pushed oil into spark wells, via the likely weak/old plug seals. It has 239k on it, but was running great right before this problem. A friend says he hopes a cam lobe isn't flat and caused the pressure. But the motor was quiet and running super before this. Oh, I also checked the fuel feed from the top of the fuel filter...it came squirting out. But I want to check the injectors to make sure they're getting power to open. I don't know how to do that. You?

@@thesetruths1404 Here you go. Just use about half as much Hondabond. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Zp6cfZaFrrGtnYk.html

What kind of car? Usually, when the coil is bad, you will have a hard time starting the car.

crv 2000 model, the vehicle just died while running then it will not start it just crank, few minutes or a half an hour it start again, it has millage 0f 143+

Would check the coil. It is not to hard to do. Could be your ignition control module.

If the car starts, it should not be your coil. Some things to check. Battery and alternator. Air pocket in the coolant. Idle Air Control Valve. What year, and engine do you have?

@@tubejim101 that’s the thing the car starts, it’s a 1997 civic so4 B16a

@@TRDKhanbrothers If your obd2 works, scan for some codes.

@@tubejim101 thanks will try that as well

What year, make, and model car are you working on?

My car is honda accord 95 AT 2.2L EX Vtec. Thanks for helping me.

I only have docs for 90 to 93 Accords. You would need to use google, or get a repair manual to get the values.

All right but could you tell me what is for 93 please? How can I look it by google? Thanks.

At 68 degrees Fahrenheit: Primary 0.6 - 0.8 ohms. Secondary 13.2 - 19.8 ohms. So if you had a 90 to 93, yours would be bad. If you where measuring at 68 degrees Fahrenheit.

This one is way over priced. Can get them from the dealer ship a lot less. Honda Service Manual: amzn.to/2wrLPxP

What kind of car are you working on?

Not sure that is a correct test.

Hey! Thank you for watching.

Hitachi is .45 - .55 ohms, and 22.4 - 33.6 K ohms. For TEC it is .63 - .77 ohms and 12.8 - 19.2 K ohms. You can tell a TEC distributor, by looking down on it. The cap will have a D shape to it. Also the Hitachi coil has blades for terminals A and B. The TEC has screws. The coil in the video is a TEC.

@@tubejim101 ok..I got 0.9-1.0 ohm on primary and 16.7 K ohm on the coil post...so I'm a little high on the primary..I see a burnt mark and coil appears to work great when first starting after car heats up approx 5 minutes the engine stops..as though no fuel or firing taking place..I am replacing the coil.

@@tubejim101 thanks for your info...I have a TEC coil

@@johnbear6145 Check the resistance of your test leads. Usualy, a bad coil will not start a car. Always start at the battery and alternator. Most auto parts stores will test them for free. What year, make, and model are you working on?

@@tubejim101 2001 Honda CR-V... Yeah their own test shows that it's good but my coil has a damaged terminal and then there's also a burnt mark on the back and I'm just wondering that it maybe works when it's cold but once it heats up then things go out of whack?