+Fly4happiness Thank you for taking the time to comment.

so what did the reconditoning consist of then?

Try getting off a meriva b 1.7 cdti 131 bhp alternator off (bloody nightmare)

what part is that ?

I had an issue with my ML chewing through serpentine belts. It turned out that someone mixed organic and synthetic ATF in my power-steering and its pump was getting stuck. While flushing it out, I checked all the pulleys and all seemed fine except my alternator. The alternator's pulley wiggled when I pushed. I hoped to drive the car home but then the alternator wouldn't charge. The car is now at the beach house about 400km from home. I was looking at sourcing a replacement or going back, taking out the old one and having that refurbished at home and taking it the 400km back again. However, after watching this and reading your comment I wonder if this might fix the problem. Is there any other reason why the pulley might be able to wiggle?

I tried this test and it was spot on. The thing I'm a little worried about is that when I rev it up (step on the gas, release and repeat), I can hear the pulley winding down as I release the gas and engine rev goes down. I had the clutch pulley replaced already but I can still hear the winding down sound almost over the noise the engine makes when I do this. Is that normal?

my mechanic just changed the very same alternator freewheel pulley... and i have the "faulty existing part" and it is according to the video the pulley is in good condition.. it free turning on one direction and locked on another direction.. got conned by car mechanic .. andrew

@@andrewyek Better safe than sorry. If that pulley goes while you're driving, you'll be left dead on the road.

Glad it helped. The beauty of a lot of these alternators is that the individual components can be changed or cleaned up without wholesale replacement of the alternator. The brush pack/regulator, slip rings, rectifier and pulley can all be replaced for considerably less.

@@sirobb this video seems to show normal RH threads ? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oJOCddySvNnRo2g.htmlsi=CeD4va0CSKS7QZRl&t=842

La Chien Hi and thanks for the comment. Yes the fitting can vary between different alternator makes and there are kits available with a larger range of attachments. If the clutch mechanism seizes, it can unscrew the pulley completely which sounds like what might have happened with your son's.

Thomas Emmett Your comment could have only been written by someone who has done similar. 👍☺️

Power steering belt not correctly tensioned or power steering pump needs replacing.

I've manually torqued up bolts with similar requirements many times so I used my experience to take an educated guess at the required torque for the pulley and 5 years on, all is still well. If you want absolute certainty and accuracy with a torque wrench, if you can't cobble together a crow's foot spanner arrangement to do it in situ, you'll have to remove the alternator.

@@sirobb Great, thanks! 👍🏻

Here's a quick video. Not sure what's normal and what isn't: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qtxle9Rpy7LDlmQ.html

A very much doubt they can be rebuilt either easily or economically. High quality replacements can be had from around £20 brand new.

I have 3 alternator testing videos but with such a low voltage output, I would start with the 3 tests shown in this one kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ms6WaayVp8ipY40.html Read the video description first.

Very good, thank you. I just finished watching that one. I grabbed my multimeter & went to test it as shown in the video. I’m driving a 2009 bwm 335i, and I just changed the battery last week. I have been studying for how to continue fixing it since. The battery I just installed was brand new, but I wasn’t able to start my car just now. It was starting a few days ago however. Since it wasn’t starting now though I wasn’t able to do the tests on the alternator. I believe it may be an electrical issue also. The car has something called IBS (intelligent battery system), which is contained in the negative terminal cable that connects to the battery. It monitors the battery & provides charging instruction to the alternator based on battery usage. The IBS runs consistently even when the car is off; so it’s drawing power from the battery frequently. With the car off I just decided to use the multimeter on the battery (w/ the positive & negative terminals connected). I believe that w/ this test I could learn how much voltage the IBS was sending to the battery. The multimeter read 5.5 volts. I then did a different test & removed both the positive & negative cables connected on the battery in order to test the battery again w/ the multimeter (the battery wasn’t connected to the car at all at this point). This time the multimeter gave me 10.5 volts. I’m still going to need to test the alternator, but I think I’ll need to change the battery again (or charge it) & likely even the IBS cables. I’m currently doing research on how to diagnose the IBS also. Thank you so much though. Hope you enjoyed the story a little bit That is where we are at at the moment :)

No problem. I'd check all of my alternator videos especially part 1 dealing with voltage drop and I have a separate specific parasitic drain test video which will show exactly what the drain is on the battery when the car is shut down. I'm not overly familiar with BMW cars (I have a bike though) but I also know that some models need the battery monitoring resetting with a diagnostic tool following battery replacement so look into that also.

@@sirobb I will take a look for both of them my friend. And yes, I did use the INPA tool to register the new battery & code it for the difference in CCA, etc. Thank you for the heads up.

dickonprior Hello again Dickon. Yes the auxiliary belt tensioner must be locked off and the belt removed. In my list of videos, there's a specific D5 auxiliary belt change/removal video.

abviously he dd

No not in this video because I wasn't working on or near any live components. If you are ever unsure of the risk, you should err on the side of caution and remove the battery negative lead.

I do sometimes. Depends on location, availability and what needs doing.

@@sirobb thanks for swift reply , ive only just got my v70 nothing really needs doing at present , im based in bolton but could travel to you maybe a service in summer

Doug Moody A chirping noise at idle which disappears at higher revs can be a sign of a failing pulley but it's not definitive and it certainly doesn't tell you which pulley is failing. As shown in the video, you need to get the belt off and inspect more closely.

That happened on my Bmw 335i I replaced all pulleys and motor band but the squeaky sound still there so I hope it’s the alternator pulley good video

What is a ''motor band" ? 4 Oct 18; adriansnare@gmail.com

Because the pulley is a bearing, it does contain a small amount of grease but this is well sealed away and wouldn't be enough to cause any noticeable mess if it did leak out. Your leak will almost certainly be oil or power steering fluid so clean the area thoroughly to help see where the leak may be coming from and what the leaking fluid is.

I explain in the video.

I don't know.

Yes

@@sirobb thanks, mine only free spins in the opposite direction of the belt movement, just wanted to confirm the pulley is the problem before I replace it (big pain for my car). Thanks.

Everything is in the video.

It depends on your car so look at yours spinning.

No, exactly the opposite. Explained from 6:10 and I'm not sure I can add any more detail to what's already in the video. This is for a *reverse thread* clutch pulley and alternator shaft.

@@sirobb OK, I got confused at 4.38. I messed up and striped the shaft by turning the 12mm clockwise. My car is an opel corsa.

Lol its because that one ran opposite. You should have checked what way yours rotated before you took the belt off

3:43 It really couldn't be any more clearer that I use an M10

Sorry I zoomed in now... I can see that it's 12 point spline which is M not T like you say 👍

If it doesn't turn one way as shown in the video, it's knackered.

@@sirobb cheers. Add that to the ever increasing list lol

Tim Haynes Autodoc in Germany. Takes about a week to arrive but I plan ahead with my maintenance so no problem.

Thanks, will take a look. Need one for our d5 xc90.

Tim Haynes This is the page and it's currently £23.62 m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/generator-alternator-parts-10452/volvo/s60/s60-i/16110-2-4-d5 Their pricing structure is a little bizarre with lesser quality makes priced higher but obviously check with your specific vehicle details. With a little effort, you can save a small fortune and having Vida definitely helps as it contains every part number for your car so cross referencing is straightforward.

Yes, seems to be same part number as comes up for the xc90. Many thanks.

Because at more than 10 years old, the pulley won't be ok forever.

£20 not lbs 😂

pascal garcia by now I hope you have it off just been through the same process without using the inside tool with only the outside tool I gave it a quick zap with a (impact gun) air tool it come off like you I broke the 10 mm bit so had to do something and it worked

I also broke T50 tip inside the pulley when trying to remove it. Will try the impact gun.

He said it still worked but felt rough .

Why is the car type relevant?

Volvo with D5 engine?

You must be buying some sh**ty quality alternators then. 😊

On the car in this video, the crank pulley rotates clockwise and the alternator rotates counter clockwise so they don't rotate the same way.

@@sirobb That is because of the belt path, and has nothing to do with OAP

Yes I know. I was replying to the comment saying that the engine and alternator run in the same direction. The overrunning/clutch mechanism is there to smooth out the differences in rotational speeds between the crank and alternator.

Must have expressed my thoughts wrong, i see your point

S60 2002

@@sirobb i was wondering if it was the same sealey pulley tools to use for my 2004 v70

@@ericsanimeshorts Yes, the same tool. 👍🏾

@@sirobb Thanks Si top man