yes we do like the longer content. great work here breaking it down.

Darn! Jake Nuckolls beat me to it! I was going to say the same thing; a lot of us do like the longer content - especially myself. After all, a lot of us are on here seeking more information or a higher learning in HVACR. Others simply just want more comfort. I've learned a lot from your channel, and I'm an HVACR-Tech-in-the-making, (still in college right now; about to start commercial HVACR next semester). I really enjoy learning about the whole Manual J/Heat Load Calculation aspect of HVACR. I don't know why, but I've always been attracted to the complexity of certain subjects, and your videos are helping to pacify that thirst. Thanks, Corbett!

The extra layer of nerding out got me to sub

Installed an 8 inch jumper from my master to another space because the room would constantly pressure up. Great content.

Very nerdy and detailed, Love it! Since most homeowners cannot afford a $500 manometer and other tools like that, it would be cool to compare your calibrated, quality tools to some of the more popular and inexpensive versions you can acquire. Even if they aren't dead on, they might be reliable enough to give homeowners a starting point to work with HVAC contractors.

You have this great way of compelling me to spend more money to do better diagnostic work to generate greater value for consumers' money spent. Rock on (and, I signed up already...proof social media works 🙃)!

More nerdy = more better! Is there a guide on how to design bypass ducts to reduce noise transmission? I want to keep bedrooms as quiet as possible, and one of the best ways to seal out noise is to have a tighter fitting door with small undercut. As you point out though, this either requires a return duct or a bypass, but a bypass can allow noise just like a large door undercut. Tips? Suggestions? I’m thinking offset grilles in a stud cavity with some sort of internal sound insulation that doesn’t block too much airflow.

I've been looking for a video like this for a few days. Thanks!

Whoa! I kinda followed along - but then I'm a Google nerd, not a HVAC in the weeds nerd. That said, this is a great video for the HVAC nerds. :)

Something that confused me when I tried to do my own calculations is you don't appear to actually have a 1" clearance beneath your door: 65.3cfm / 396fpm / 36in = 0.66in. Other than that, fantastic video, I really appreciate the in-depth explanation. This is helping me check my own door undercuts and whether to do jump ducts. The answer, unfortunately, is yes -- I'm calculating ~10Pa with 32" doors and 0.625" clearance at ~150cfm.

I think I know what tool I will be purchasing in the very near future...

If I understand this correctly one of the problems high pressure in the room equals to different temperature from the rest of the house possibly higher energy cost is there a health problem for people?

This was timely. I was really tempted to make a conditioned attic in my retrofit but it’s just not in the budget. I won’t need to run returns to all upstairs bedrooms if we nail our Man D.

Exactly what I needed. Thank you!

As always, a great video (and aptly timed for me as I'm about to DIY duct design for our new house). Would you mind sharing the stair railing system that is shown on your stair case?

quality content, thank you!

Hi, not to change the subject, but have you heard of high frequency waves going up to 22KHz in an appartment building. I catch this on Advanced Spectrum Analyzer from playstore. I read on forums that these waves are not audible to the ear but to the skull neck chest abdomen and legs. Some people might feel mini vibes with resonance and pressure, especially when balcony doors are closed and no other noises are noticeable. Even when the wifi is off. To feel these you need silence. Writing to you from France and haven't had any straight answers yet. Some say it's from relay stations and got to do with volt meters to start with, others say mechanical or electrical.....thanks much.

and the next question is, how well does carpet seal the door? also interesting that you have wider doors than us. we have a few problems with poor man hvac systems not having returns installed, causing depressurization of the main room, causing back drafting of fireplaces.

Is the Testo 510 accurate enough for these test ?

My home is 5 years old. Every winter we have issues with doors and locks freezing shut. We tried everything from lowering humidity inside the home, we changed locks so many times, getting home inspectors involved to see if hvac or vents are not working properly. As of the moment we are looking into getting storm doors installed to help with the frozen doors and locks issues. One home inspector mentioned about getting the pressure in the home checked, we spent so much money on fixing this issue could you please enlighten me if this is necessary. Thank you so much.

Looks like you have an "exterior" door separating your studio from the rest of the house. You've said elsewhere that they are separate systems. So how do you test in a situation like that? Unlike a bathroom or bedroom door, there's no gap unless you crack open the door, which obviously, impacts results. I've thought about putting the tube through a window and taping up the rest of the gap. Is there a better way? Also, how do you measure the air leakage between a home and attached garage? Since garages are leaky, I can't think of a set up that would separate leaks from the garage and leaks from outside. Thanks!

Hi. Always learn so much from you. I wanted to ask. I moved into a house that was build in 1962. There's a return vent in the basement. Is that normal and necessary? The main return is on first floor and no returns on the above floor. Also the return in the base, if I look through it about 10 feet across is the main return so wonder would my house perfom a bit better if I closed the basement one. I did a blower door test, horrible number at 15.7 ACH. My goal is to bring that down as much as I can. The second question is, what's a realistic goal for that loose of a house? Thank you.

How do you test air pressure fluctuation in a single space, with out reference to another space?

Riddle me this: what effect do you think continuous fan has on rh? Some people say it creates re evaporation problems but I theorize that it’s just HVAC induced infiltration

Would you generally recommend a central return for tight homes?

Generally speaking. If you have the standard 1” bottom door gap, would cutting an additional inch off the bottom of the door (so 2” total) improve the airflow?

Will dents in ducts be a cause of zonal pressure issue? Or would those dents only cause lower CFM at that specific supply vent?

I purchased a cps products spm-100 to do this room to main enclosure type testing, but am having problems with the product. It reads pascals to one decimal digit, the same as your tec tool displays. However, with the tool calibrated, and both ports open to atmosphere, I have a 5-7 pascal difference. I've tried rebooting the tool and recalibrating it more than enough times to rule that out as a variable. Could this variation be just because of the small, minute pressures we're trying to differentiate here, or did I just cheap out on my instrumentation? How does your tec dg-8 act with having both ports open to atmosphere (in a still environment, of course.)

A lot of what is measured and tested is pretty much common sense. No expensive tools and excessive jargon needed. Human noses are pretty good at telling us if something isn’t right. And forget about the pressures in the studio for the moment, the echo and lack of thought into the acoustics of the studio was completely overlooked and f’d up by whoever designed it. The echo is annoying.