Thank you! Big fan of your work!

Thank you!

Oooo that sounds amazing! Definitely going to have to figure out a project to try that on. Thanks for the tip!

@@MMsPropShop I used it on a DL-44 blaster build on the Mauser body.

Thank you!

Thanks!

Woohoo! Welcome to the foot sander club, haha! Glad it’s working out for you.

That’s such a cool lightsaber! Yes, essentially the shinier your base coat it, the shinier the metallic will look. Some metallic paints are more opaque and not as effected by the base they are applied on top of, but in a lot of cases the metallic paint is reflecting off of the surface it’s applied to which is why there can be such a difference between finishes. You can also just add a gloss coat to any primer to make it shiner as long as the paint you’re applying on top of it doesn’t react strangely to the gloss.

Some designers have even started making versions that you can fit electronics into to have a working saber which is really awesome.

They’re on my list to try; my usual stores are always sold out of them so it hasn’t happened yet lol

It’s an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro.

Thanks! I typically spray the gloss black base around 10 PSI. Basically as low as possible that doesn’t involve the airbrush spitting out paint. It’s recommended to spray it at a much higher PSI but I found that I was constantly enveloped in a black cloud of paint vapour, so I downed the pressure. I just like doing the one pass, heavy enough that it’s wet looking once finished. For any metallic paint I do around 20 PSI, again one pass. Some of the metal paints will get cloudy if over applied. Great if you want something that looks less intensely chrome like. For clear I’m also around the 15-20 PSI range, one pass wet. The clear coat will always technically dull the metallic effect but it’s a necessary evil if you want the finish to last. If you don’t apply enough of the clear coat you can end up with a much duller finish. You want it to be as glassy/transparent as possible without over applying to the point where it’s running and dripping. It’s one of those things that you get the hang of overtime with experience and figuring out what your preferences are in terms of finish.

@@MMsPropShop great, thanks so much!

Absolutely! I just tend to resin print smaller props like this to try and save myself on post processing. FDM printers are better than they’ve ever been with quality of prints. Some of the extremely fine detail might not translate as much on a filament printer (like the ridged ring on Shin’s saber) but the overall look of the prop should be able to be the same.

My biggest tip would be to experiment. Play around with your PSI, how far your holding your airbrush gun away from you model with different types of paints, the opacity of your paints, etc. You’ll get a feel for what works best/is needed for different looks and types of projects. Experience is the best way to get better. For metallics more specifically, try not to handle the piece in between painting the various layers as fingerprints can ruin the finish very easily with some primers.

@@MMsPropShop Thank you so very much! I will certainly apply this advice to my own projects!

Thanks! No, it’s a couple of these ones: amzn.to/498ndqK

@MMsPropShop Thanks, I didn't realise you could just like, buy these! lol! I thought I'd have to invest in a laser cutter Maybe later!

@reelclones haha, no worries! Would be super cool to be able to make them yourself. You unfortunately need a CO2 laser to be able to cut clear acrylic.

After. I clean the print, then remove support, then cure, then sand. Uncured resin is softer and tends to not sand as well as when it’s cured.

Not yet but I can see myself building a bunch of lightsabers in the future. They’re a relatively quick project compared to what I’m used to lol

Still love it. I have it printing ABS pieces constantly. The only issue I’ve had was caused by a bad roll of filament which messed up the hotend/extruder and QIDI customer service replaced any damaged parts without question. Completely unheard of with 95% of 3D printer companies.

For this project I was using this Timbertech airbrush: amzn.to/3HBpqiI One of my favourites. I have multiples set up with the different needle sizes because I use them so much.

@@MMsPropShop Thanks!

Duralumen is easier. I’ve done props with both and the shine you get is similar plus it’s more durable

Graphite powder does look great but it’s highly unstable for anything beyond a display piece. Definitely a more limiting option.

Thats why you clear coat it.@@MMsPropShop

@@MMsPropShopgraphite powder really isn’t unstable if applied properly it’s actually very durable, Aqua gloss on the other hand is really only suitable for display pieces it isn’t very durable at all