2:00 Tire pressure 4:05 Gearing 6:05 Alignment 11:00 Springs 13:30 Damping 15:30 Anti-roll bars 17:20 Suspension geometry 19:10 Areo 21:55 Brake 23:20 Differential 25:50 Steering wheel

I love the new ranking up cars system. It gets me actually trying out cars stock, understanding what's wrong with them and actually learn how to tune the cars, something i used to do in FM2. All recent FM games all i used to do was buy a car and instantly buy the best possible tune and i'm honestly bored of that gameplay loop after doing it for more than a decade. So i'm very happy with the built not bought approach in this FM.

Yay thank goodness. More guides are coming out. Some things are personal preference, but having a math disability, the suspension is the most daunting thing for me because it’s all tied together in three windows. I try to start with 5% 10% or even 15% to 20% (extreme end of things) with increases or decreases. It makes things easier rounding things off but still Dyscalculia makes the suspension difficult . Guess work until I tried small % first. I’d like to think I’m learning. Ty for the knowledge. I’m getting better and better each game.

Just started to dabble with tuning starting with the Porsche 911 gt3 RS 2016 it made a HUGE difference and shaved several seconds off my laps now I just got to perfect my tune boy am I glad I tried tuning I can be competitive in MP now I couldn't be more pleased

Man, I'm so glad I gave Forza another chance. Not sure why, but I wasn't feeling it when it launched. Thanks for this video, really helped.

This is a Video that will help a lot of people, and FYI Yes car height affects downforce in Forza, if front is lower than rear, you get more downforce. It has been from the first forzas.

Thanks for the video it was very helpful to understand all the car settings as a noob I am. I did find the app and gave it a run on my civic touring car and it really helped with stabalizing the ride for me. I'll give a run online tomorrow and see how it goes.

Extremely helpful going back and reviewing your guide !

This is a pretty good guide, I think I will try some of these settings on a few cars.

You did a lot of work on this video and it is appreciated. Thank you, I'm going to jump right back in and test some of these settings out.

Best explanation of forzas tuning! By far!

thanks for the vids. even as a seasoned player i have to some back to this type of stuff as a refresher

Forza downforce does increase linear instead of by square with speed. Symmetric aero settings (max/min) can gain a lot of straight line speed and acceleration without sacrificing much cornering speed. Go with the lowest rear aero possible without being instabile in mid and high speed corners. Really stiff ARBs also are good, especially with FDW cars. Just go 40/40 and with a locked front differential.

I'm a Forza veteran with some top 10 global times and even I learnt some great tips. Great video!

Good solid advice. I've been heavily into tuning since GT4 and it's sometimes tricky to jump between all the different games and their meta but Forza is a decent middle ground. It's kind of sim but toned down. Lots of laps and telemetry is the key but these bits of advice you give are very useful.

Thank you for making this. Great video!

Id LOVE to see a video on the setup app! Gotta go look or it now… ALSO Loved the video! Been hoping that someone would make this soon to help me get the most out of my tunes!

Absolutely solid advice thanks 👌

After a good amount of testing, my conclusion is: If you are only concerned about lap times, just tune the gear ratio, aero balance and brake balance. The rest of the settings have some impact in handling but they won't make you faster.

I have several top 100 rivals spots all using my own tunes. This is a great video for beginners and veterans alike.

Thanks for making this, very informative and gelpful

it helped me go 5 seconds faster no extra effort, thank you

Cars can have up to high as 5 camber, forza physics are still forza physics, bump and rebound can be set to 1/1 and 13/13, which are for a lot of fasts tunes. Overall good guide :)

Just plain THANK YOU! I do well in racing games... I DO NOT do well in tuning lol. Why I use Coach Dave Academy lol This was a great help for me. Well Done too!

Perfect thank you for explaining it i harshly knew what to do but i could never really explain to my friends what i do exactly good video keep it up

danke! endlich mal ein video was ich gebraucht habe

wow this is amazing... Thanks mate.. legend!!!

3 things: 1- Thank you for explaining the different areas of tuning instead of just saying to use a preferred number range. That really helped me understand how to get better with my tuning. 2- Around the 11:35/11:40 mark you talk about ride height and vehicle rake. I have noticed that if the rear height is 1 or 2 ticks higher than the front, the braking distance measurement tends to go down indicating that there is some use to adding rake to the tune using ride height or the aero (high front, low rear). Finally, 3- With the Springs and Dampeners, if I use the telemetry and keep the springs to around .7/.8 max compression but the car is still nosediving under braking or squatting under acceleration, would the dampeners counter this movement or do I need to relook at my spring settings? Thanks for the info!

THX SO MUCH BRO THIS REALLY HELPED ME!!!

Great video learned a lot from watching. Thanks

mega brill vid, mate!

great guy. one suggestion because i keep on referencing this video: marking the sections on the video timeline would be really helpful. thanks for the hard work

This is a pretty good starting point for those new to tuning. Just a few things to add: Stock setups are actually quite good. You really don't need to change much aside from aero, springs, and roll bars to have something competitive. For gearing, the main telemetry page shows you power output at any given time. You should be setting gears so you're near max power as often as possible while still having appropriate ratios for corner exits. A lot of cars have peak power well below redline, so checking power in telemetry is important. This isn't really a Forza specific thing. Suspension geo is very powerful in Forza now. You can isolate unwanted behaviors in specific cornering phases without having to compromise in others. A lot of cars in Forza, especially GT cars, you run full front and no rear aero. You keep most of the cornering performance of full aero with most of the straight line performance of none. I recommend having a stiff roll bar to compensate for the oversteer

Thanks for the help, a video on the ap yo7 mentioned would be helpful too.

Brilliant video

Perfect Tutorial ! Ty

Thank you, this is really helpfull!

Yep i went with 34 psi and tuned my suspension springs and dampers but not my transmission and differential yet soon though I'll give it a go I'm so enjoying this game even before my seemingly OP GT3 RS tune yeah before the tune the car became unsettled really easy and had crappy turn in and took corners pretty slow now this car 🚗 s a rocket ship through turns it's made the game much more enjoyable

I have to disagree with your recommended diff settings for rear wheel drive cars. If others find these settings difficult to control, try on-throttle or acceleration diff at 60%-70% and off-throttle or deceleration diff at 40%-50% depending on the car. This deceleration setting can help remove unwanted lift-off oversteer.

Great video, this entire time I thought negative toe increased turn-in. Silly me 😁😁

The red and blue graphics on the beta look 👌

There is big misunderstanding how load/weight transfer works in this video. Suspension stiffness or anti-geometry itself doesn't change how much load/weight is being transfered between wheels. Only thing you can influence with stiffness is how is this load transfered - e.g. axle with more laterally stiff (proportionally to the other one) suspension will "take away" some of the transfer, as it gives more resistance. So stiffening only rear anti roll bar will decrease overall body roll (due to having more overall stiffness), increase load transfer on the rear axle and decrease load transfer on the front axle. Weight transfer determines how much more load is being given to the outside wheel. More load transfer = less overall grip on said axle (generated grip vs vertical load isn't linear, that's why heavy cars corner and brake slower). Roll center changes the point around which sprung mass of the car rotates. Higher roll center will make your car stiffer in roll (and allow you to use softer sway bars) but will increase unwanted "jacking" forces. IRL they are also connected to camber gain rate of wheels during vertical movement but I have no idea how it works in Forza. Anti-geometry doesn't change longitudinal load transfer also. It just changes pitch angle of a car, as suspension geometry is resisting the forces on top of the car. You want to adjust it when using softer springs - IRL you can often face situation in which optimal spring stiffness (in terms of car control and compliance over bumps) doesn't offer enough stiffness to deal with pitch movement (car either hits the ground with front bumper aero devices or just moves around too much too keep consistent downforce levels. Then you use anti-geometry to limit movement under forces generated by car's innertia without changing its' driving dynamics or ability to handle terrain.

Nice, video for new drivers who do not know what they are doing. Until the Forza patch comes in, there probably won't be a lot of good tunes to grab from online. People can use the trick to unlock another person's tune and see everything that they did. I'm sure a lot of the good tuners do not like this so they will wait for the patch.

Great job

Small thing with the Diff at the end for FWD. Pretty much everything will be fastest using 100% accel and 0% decel. Those are meta esports numbers

Would moving the toll center height completely eliminate the need of toe or is that an under load vs neutral turn in difference?

Is the app you mentioned near the end Forzatune? If so, I've used and really liked it for FM7, FH4, and FH5!

I believe one of the big reasons we can't run realistic GT cambers is because we can't actually adjust the ackerman. If we could do a negative ackerman setup like a lot of actual race cars have, we might see more benefit from the contact patch and scrub angle created by more extreme track car cambers. Also, a lot of people misunderstand toe. On drive wheels, the force exerted on the wheels while accelerating will cause the wheels to try and pull toe in. On wheels that are not applying power the force exerted by friction with the road wants to push the toe out. Rule of thumb is to toe in on drive wheels, toe out on non-drive wheels.

You missed something on the Differential page: on All Wheel Drive cars that tuning screen gets much busier because that accel/decel setting is there for front and rear axle separately. And there is another setting that come up for distributing power between the front & back axles as well (so setting it to 100% at the back makes it basically a RWD car, while putting it 1000% at the front turns it into a FWD car)..

@OverTake_gg Please look at GT lobby cars and tunes. Choose your tune/car, remember or write down the spring weight.. Now look what happens when you load and start at a new track... It happens every time and no matter what you do, that "given" number will always overrule your settings.

Jonas I have come to the conclusion that I have absolutely no idea how to tune and end up making my car worse than its default. Thank you for the wonderful guide tho...

Nice one, but I think you got the deceleration diff-settings wrong. Higher settings means understeer/more stability while braking because it limits the rotation. On power this switches to the opposite behavior because an open diff always provides a 50/50 torque-split no matter the grip or rotation differences while more locking transfers the torque to the tyre with more grip helping to rotate. Dampers are also more a tool to influence the turn-in and rebounds the turn-out behavior, so weight-transfer. If the car over-rotates on turn-in, stiffen the front dampers (or soften the rear if it comes from there) and stiffer rebounds if the car keeps on turning while you want to switch direction.

What do u tune to make the spin on the back tires less because i keep spinning out when i accelerate?

I love the new Forza, the cars are all unique. Seems like in Horizon they feel samey and like toys

GT car is Castro seven front camber .8 rear camber .9 to be the sweet spot.

I tested the app and set my car up with it. I will say that the improvements are very noticeable but.... How on earth are others going faster? I'm not expecting to be 1st. Is it the way I take the lines? Just trying to understand how others can go faster. Not much but like 1-2 secs on some tracks. I did mess around with the gearing a bit for each track as well. Question, can we do upgrades on spec cars to get them on the higher side of the race car rating? Im referring to the touring class spec races. I don't want to do that unless it's legal for the spec races. Sorry for the noob questions in advance.

The best way to tune gears is find out the engines Powerband. Some are at 6000rpm or 8000rpm. You wanna keep each gear line on the graph close to the powerband. Then make sure each gear is slightly behind or else you will lose it all.

Best driving game ive played in a long time.. the new system actually makes me try to understand my vehicle and be one with it and grind it out to where i truly want it to be, makes me feel wat needs to get worked on instead of str8 out maxing it out and tune it

Have you used a Cammus C5 on this game yet? I'm struggling to get quality FFB settings for it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you so much! Any advice on Tire width? Width vs Compound? Front vs Rear? Is Max available width always better for Racing?

can u tell me or us the your graphics settings as well ?? my game looks soooooo blurry with max settings and looks like its in 720p instead of 2k

1:17 that's setup i've made for the 2020 Honda Civic lmao. Y'all should download it, it's quite good (trust me)

in FM23's tuning settings, it isn't clear on the DAMPERS page if the bump/rebound is the slow or the fast setting of each. when tuning the dampers, which of these should i be considering when adjusting the dampers?

I’ve tried tuning a couple of cars now and the middle of the tyres are always 5-10 degrees hotter than the inside and outside, which are pretty much the same temperature. Is there something I can do in the tuning to fix or is it driving style related? Also what is the best all round track that will make your car good everywhere? I’ve heard Watkins Glen, Barcelona and Nurburgring.

I wonder what updates and patches we’re getting next week

How do I turn on automatic updates automatic tunes. I just want to race I don't want to have to do all that stuff

Just going to correct you a bit on Drifting. You would want an extremely high negative front camber -4 to -5 and the front caster as low as possible 1.0.

I’m from Canada and my tire pressure is in BAR, I tried to change the measurements to metric in the settings but no luck :(

I’ve been a Forza player for years, and generally just play with the cars with some upgrades but have never done any tuning like this, but always find these kind of videos interesting - just wondering how many people actually do this besides KZfaqrs? It seems like a lot of work to do multiple practice laps for each adjustment, and then do that for each individual car as well. It seems like you’d spend your whole time in the game just doing practice laps? 🤷

About tires, I would have loved to have a bit more informations about the difference between front and rear pressure. It's usually not the same right ?

How do i get the car to just turn at like 60 mph around a basic turn i can take in my daily driver? Shouldnt really need tuning dor that

Shout out to RaceBoy77 for doing all the hard work lol

Which track do you recommend using for an all round tune of a vehicle?

I spent all day today trying to tune my chev 90 camaro IROC for A class. But no matter what i did it seemed to understeer. Originally it has a bit of oversteer. but even when i did have that oversteer i still was having understeer and just having trouble taking the curves. Eventually I tried a community tune. It handled much better and i was easily and consistantly able to get 1.5s faster lap times and completely avoid driving off the track. Unfortuiantly you cant see the tune or upgrades of community builds. But you can see cosmetic changes and weight and tire size. So using this info plus the numerical ratings for speed, breaking, handling, and acceleration I recreated the upgrads applied to my car. I actually was able to get a matching rating in all areas except acceleration which was actually .2 higher in my build. The community build was .4 better in handling compared to my og build so I thought maybe that was the issue. But trying it out with my tune wasn't much better if at all. So i decided to keep those upgrades and just wipe my tune completey. And immediatly I got the grip i wanted and a great lap time. So something was obviosuly wrong with my tune. So I started over. First i adjusted the final gear ratio and managed to get a slightly better lap time. Then I adjsted the springs. This adjustment seemd to cause very similar understeer that i experience before and resulted in similar lap times. So I'm thinking the tune on the springs/ride height is to blame. I was easily able to lower ride height to it's min value and make the springs super soft. Springs telementry didn't seem to be reaching 0 nor did experience any bottoming out of the car on the track surface or irregular control. So why does my car seem to have so much trouble on the turns with this setup?

Can you make a video on the open series in the campaign? Or other gas c class a class Snr class? I believe then you get a McClaren at the very. And can you tell us what cars are the best NC class and so on and so forth? So I can level up those cars. Great content. By the way, Euro is rarely informative. Thank you for your Videos It's been a real hope to hear back from You soon. Sorry I'm disabled so I can't really well. I can't use the microphone, so some stuff comes out. Not the right word, sorry.

this exact tune is considered to be illegal in online gt racing, is there a way around this?

One of the cars I’m trying to get dialed in is having an issue with transitioning in S curves. First right; good, first left; good. Second right; starts to loosen, second left; we drifting boys. Can’t quite figure it out with out making it bad in long sweeping turns. I’ll just play with it some more

Great video, but I would add: steering lock range is extremely useful on console. Series X/S users don’t have the ability to use the wheel’s internal settings per car-or maybe at all in some cases.

Psi in Uk also

force feedback scal? no word to clipping?

Finally, someone uses the metric system on KZfaq 👍👍👍

Obviously this is going to depend on what track you’re tuning for, but why is having the acceleration to get to this reduced top speed with the shortened gearing more important than outright top speed?

Have you figured out how to fix the sudden snap of oversteer when slowing down on the wheel? It's so frustrating.

I need Tune for porsche 911 rsr 2017

Wow a video about actually tuning in motorsport instead of complaining that the driving socks when in reality the players just suck at building a car and tuning

I’m still having trouble with springs/damping

When I tune the 2021 BMW M4 for A CLASS, should I use RACE parts or SPORTS? If I choose RACE parts then the car ends in R CLASS

I just wanna know what to tune so it doesn't feel like Im driving on ice when im exiting a corner. How do I get more grip so I won't powerslide every corner

How do you fix fishtailing due to too much power on turn exit?

Hey great video. What is the app you mention at the end? 😨

Is this tuning guide universal for any sim?

thinner the tire the more neg camber you want

i know nothing about cars but here i am lol

I watched and understand everything you said but my car still have a lot of oversteering

While most of it looks good, the part i listened to sounds backwards, the front roll increase creates more understeer not oversteer

Sol agrees 100% tune your own car to better fit your needs and driving style. Shared tunes are for those who like to collect others opinions. i have No use for shared tunes in my racing career. that's why i don't share mine.

One thing missing is peak in telemetry

wtf is the name of the setup app?

This game is a joke, how I'm supposed to tune a setup in private mode ? - No access to a proper board to see your lap times - No access to datas if not driving - How TF I'm supposed to drive and analyze the telemetry at the same time ? - No proper live datas about your lap times (faster or slower) - Racing game that lacks lot of racing tools - No rev lights on the steering wheel (Ford GTE and not the only one I guess) - To go back to the pit you have to quit the "race" which is actually a testing session, and then when back on track, you start from "lap 1" again. - Ranking system clearly don't work as I'm always against rammers in multiplayer, even if I'm S class with 4400 skill rating - SO MANY MORE BAD THINGS This game is just not for racers ... Yes I'm upset. Nice video by the way, thank you

When starting out tuning always drive car with base tune before starting your tune. 2nd change one tuning section at a time then test drive and see if you like the changes snd check track times to see if you are actually improving the tune . Its a process and will take a long time but can amount to great improvement in times around the track. As with time will come experience and eventually you can tune multiple things after initial test drive.