If the theory section isn't for you, feel free to skip to 9:49!

The main thing that I have learned from book Milken & Milken Race vehicle dynamics (strongly recommend to read!) is the fact that all-stiff or all-soft anti-roll bars do not make difference in load distribution between the left and right side of the car. In other words, uniformly stiffer suspension does not reduce the load transfer while cornering. However, what works is the relative difference in stiffness of the front and rear axles. Softer front relatively to the rear reduces the load transfer between the left and right wheels giving relatively more grip on the front, and vice versa.

sir im sorry for commenting that other rude comment on ur previous video. i was expecting these videos to teach stuff that they're not really "supposed to". after i first watched it i started reading serious books like RCVD and Tune to win, and now i've come back to these videos, just out of curiosity and because they're enjoyable to watch, and I can appreciate them fully. these videos aren't "perfect", but they are leagues above, and possibly the best out of other similar of videos for tuning in games. the information is explained clearly with nice pacing, and the demos are incredibly helpful. thank you for uploading these, and once again sorry for the old mean comment which i've deleted btw. have a good day

These are complicated subjects but you manage to make it understandable whilst also entertaining. That’s not an easy balance to strike. Really good video. It’s also clear that this took a lot of work. Thank you on behalf of all those who watched it and learned something.

Could've used this info 20-something years ago, instead of trial and error! Still learning physics from this game. Thanks for the vid.

I'd say toe-out on the rear does have a couple applications where it makes sense. One is drifting, for drift setups, toe-out on the rear wheels is fairly common, and a good way to make the rear-end of a car step out much more easily. Another application is to help FWD vehicles rotate through corners more easily. Whilst even on FWD cars, you'll still exhibit a reduction in straight-line stability, this is partially offset by the excellent straight-line traction FWD cars tend to have from the outset, as well as the relatively lower-level BHP ranges they tend to have, which makes this a lot easier to control. That being said, for circuit racing, I would still use rear toe-out for FWD cars as a last resort if every other option has been exhausted and improved cornering still hasn't been reached. Just my two cents! 😎👍

Very useful and informative as always ✌️ huge thanks for putting the time in to explain and show the results! Big fan of these vids.

Still the best Gran Turismo 7 content ever created. Hope to see back in action and bestowing all your knowledge again.

Thank you for the video. It was worth the wait! I appreciate the theory section very much. Knowing why and where to make changes makes the whole tuning process much easier.

This is some high quality, easy to understand content man. Great video!

Man GT7 needs to let these videos be on the game for information this was very well done 👍🏾 💯

Bro u and Voss are GOAT status with the uploads regarding the ACTUAL science of a component and it’s functions. Can’t wait till the next one 💪🏾

Thanks for these guides, this is really helpful 👍🏼

Thanks for the time +effort you put into these vids. Very helpful!

Great video. Thank you for the work. I’m sure I’ll be watching this 10 more times before I take it all in!

I've been waiting for this.

3:12 First time I've ever heard the reasons for camber explained, and so straightforward...

Thanks for taking the time to explain this in detail.

Thanks again for the new guide section

Thank you very much for this video. Great breakdown/lecture. I’m running the hurricane right. (Gr3). This changes my whole approach to tuning. Thank you very much. You have a new fan/subscriber! Nice to meet you!

Loving your videos, experimenting all the time and you've more or less confirmed what I thought. 👍

This video is pure gold

Best tutorial hands down !

Love it, great vid again dude

GUD STUFF BUDDY!!! TY!!! I ALWAYS LOVE LEARNING AND U R A GREAT TEACHER!!!

I love these videos. I have a fleet of Subaru’s I’m trying to dial in and this is helping so much 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻 I really needed help on the toe adjustments, even at 50:50 the sti slides it’s but out of corners at lower speeds

Incredible video, thank you.

Along with part 1, this is still the best GT7 suspension tuning guide that I can find. Please can we have diff? :)

Great guide

What I did to fine tune my camber is to go on a racetrack and run a decent to great lap then go on replay and pause during a corner and look at the outside tire if it looks like the tire is rolling over then add a bit more negative camber if the tire looks like it’s a bit too negative remove some camber I found in my s2000 1.3 degrees of negative camber is perfect and the default 1.5 rear negative camber is perfect

These vids are great 🔥🔥🔥🔥

You are amazing 😊

that was helpful. Thanks a lot.

You are my professor for my GT University

You've made great tutorial vids for GT7. My respect to that. How 'bout you putting them into playlist, also?

Made this request on your carbon brakes quick test, but you should do an LSD guide. I've seen some good ones, but I'm sure yours would be pure gold for the community.

Your videos so far have immensely helped me learn tuning theory and the specifics for gt7 in specific, so thank you. But i have to ask. Are you still making videos? You mentioned in this video and the previous about more planned videos on the subject but i dont see any on your channel and its been 8 months. I hope you're still making videos cuz im loving them and cant wait for the next ones. If not its a real shame

In my understanding, stiffer suspension causes the weight to be transferred quicker. So when you stiffen the rear ARBs and soften the front ARBs, you gain more oversteer tendency, and that's because weight is being transferred across the rear axle more quicker than the front. The rear inside tire has weight taken off of it quicker, and at the same time, it loses grip very quickly, that's where most of the oversteer happens. The rear outside gains weight as well as grip, but the grip gained isn't 1:1 with the amount of weight gained. The rear outside is gaining grip slower than the rear inside is losing grip, and that is why oversteer happens. That's how I understand it. Coming from your previous video about dampers, I thought the way how you'd setup dampers in GT made sense but I still cannot seem to fully grasp it. In the cheat sheet you mentioned that to increase corner entry oversteer, you want to soften front bump and soften rear rebound. I'd imagine you would couple that with a stiff rear ARB? I thought that would you use a softer front bump with a stiffer rear rebound to increase corner entry oversteer. By having a soft front bump setting, you allow the weight to be placed onto the front tires more gradually, and then you'd combine that with a stiff rear rebound. By having a stiff rear rebound, you make it so that the weight leaves the rear more quicker. So one end loses grip quicker, but the other end loses grip slower, resulting in over/understeer. With corner exit you mentioned having a stiff front rebound helps negate corner exit understeer. How I thought it worked, having a stiff front rebound would make you understeer more on exit once you get back onto the throttle, as having a stiffer setting causes weight transfer to happen quicker. So by having a stiff front rebound setting, you make it so that weight leaves the front quicker, and back on to the rear. Again this is just how I understand it, the more roll resistance there is, the quicker weight transfer happens. You don't want a setting to be too soft or to stiff because either can cause understeer/oversteer. Having a front that's too soft can cause unresponsiveness and make the car feel like a boat, have no willingness to turn. Having front suspension that's too stiff causes corner entry understeer, though the initial turn-in is responsive, because the weight transfer happens quickly, the front inside loses grip too quickly and you end up understeering anyways. I've read very small parts of Carroll Smith's Tune to Win, some suspension tuning articles here and there, other videos that talk about suspension, and all of it tackles the subject with different answers leaving more questions, for myself anyways. I watched this other video that talks about dampers, and they mentioned having a stiffer rear rebound makes the vehicle more sensitive to trail-braking, having a soft front rebound makes turn-in less responsive, but mid-corner and corner exit become a lot better. WIth your video, you have different answers, nothing wrong with that, we'll all have a different understanding on this subject, but as someone who is trying to learn, it's a little frustrating. At the end of it, it just seems like trial and error tuning is going to be the best way to go.

I've seen a lot of real world race cars running very noticeably high levels of camber at the front, sometimes to the rear. Usually in touring cars. BTCC, WTCC, and Australian Super Touring and Supercars. 3.0 degrees plus. What I can say however, is any of those cars with camber that high, ever finishing in the top 5 without lots attrition in the race, was very rare. It's usually indicative of the team struggling with their setup all race weekend long.

What happened to this channel? It was very informative and I still reference the running videos often. Still waiting for that diff video!

Thank you 🙏 for all your time, and efforts to make this video 💯🤌

thanks for the guide and tips really helpful but could be nice with street car for example cars tat have uneven weight like 50 front 40 rear or 50 rear 40 front i find in gt 7 even stock race cars are pretty easy to drive and setup but the dam street cars are so hard to tune i have bmw m5 i have tried 10-1 anti roll bars but car keep oversteering i have tried lower front ride hight and spring rate and dampers toe camber and then tried the opposite with every possible settings but same issue the oversteer wont go away so far corvette zr1 and viper gts ferrari 430 are the only rear wheel cars i been able to tune that dont oversteer like crazy

Thanks! Is a video on the LSD tuning planned? I really need a good guide about that and would be happy to watch yours

👏

check out the GT6 version of Beyond the apex. The modern GT7 version doesn't go into detail as much as the other one does

Only time I've used toe out on rear was with the classic mini on the Alsace endurance mission. Logic said no but it was the only thing that got it to rotate on entry. Even 1-10 ARB and full rear brake bias failed. I feel the brake bias adjustment is too weak ATM and I'd like to be able to run different tyre or axle widths front and back. Could really dial in handling on some awkward cars then.

Great video! Really confused when you put .50 toe out on the front and said it should help you turn in? Doesn’t toe out on the front induce understeer? As the weight shifts to the outside wheel when you turn which is now pointing out? I’ve tested toe angle on Blue Moon Bay specifically the final turn to test cars for high speed turning and Toe In on the front has always helped the car turn in not Toe Out.

Hreat guide, tue problem is i listen to it then forget what you say 😂

It's a shame they didn't include adjustable ackermann. Then you could combine the static toe with the ackermann.

I’m still rewatching part.1 over and over again.

So that means if my car does not turn in the amount i would like to i should try to change to in to a lower number?

I used your methods on 1970 challenger and it worked beautifully. I'm still struggling with a very slow power on oversteer. Almost like I'm slowly drifting the curve but my turn in is great. Im also using TC on 5 to achieve this setup. Any suggestions?

I am struggling to tune the C6 ZR1 on max power. Any suggestions?

A comment for the algorithm

I mean, sometimes I don't know I just play too bad or it's the car's problem, how can I distinguish it?

Are you sure the camber needs to be lower on the driven wheels ? I use to think like this because of Forza, but having more negative camber on the back than front works well.

Is there a calculator for suspension

What can be done when you still have body roll on a car that you’ve nearly tried everything to eliminate it. Car is the focus rs

Does this all still apply with all the physics changes?

Any suggestions on specific track adjustments, highspeed, low speed, uphill/downhill turns?

camber -9999 caster 9999 that's it lmao

Any tips on how to get gold for final S class test?

Is tyre screeching a indication of anything that can be fixed in tuning? I've noticed some cars suffer with it a lot, even at low speeds.

My game doesn't measure any performance when changing suspension components, why? Is this a glitch I can fix? Current version

I would even pay you for setting few cars for my son. He loves the game and I’m too busy trying to help him. How can I contact you for setting fee cars ? 😊 We struggle with the 730pp on Gr3 Would like to set few cars especially the Group3

Like deployed

Very good video. Do you have a solution for the instability under heavy braking for the Gr.3 cars on the Nurburgring?

😂😂

But the tuning settings in GT7 are compared to reality, reversed. Toe-out on the front promotes understeer instead of oversteer and toe-in on the rear promotes oversteer instead of understeer in game. The settings in this game are messed up and Polyphony know this and are looking to correct them and naturally correct the oversteering nature of the cars in game. It's no small undertaking because it impacts pp and BoP.

moar

The main thing that I have learned from book Milken & Milken Race vehicle dynamics (strongly recommend to read!) is the fact that all-stiff or all-soft anti-roll bars do not make difference in load distribution between the left and right side of the car. In other words, uniformly stiffer suspension does not reduce the load transfer while cornering. However, what works is the relative difference in stiffness of the front and rear axles. Softer front relatively to the rear reduces the load transfer between the left and right wheels giving relatively more grip on the front, and vice versa.