Thanks man! Unfortunately during editing that one we had some serious audio screw ups 🤦 BUT we moved to Adobe premiere pro for editing so the sound mixing won't be off and buggy again!. And she's boosting better now👌

Anyone that ones a dsm ... Is either a mechanic / auto tech .. or you turn into one lol ... Don't believe anyone that says they did work on a car your gonna buy unless they have proof /video pictures or receipts!!!!!! Trust me !!!!

@@syndakitpanda1777 so true, took a autotech class but had no idea what I was getting myself into

Hi there, thanks for the sub!. I actually purchased the turbo from a private sale on Facebook "dsm classifieds" page. They always have them on floating around. Check on there. Here is a link I found from a quick search for a "mhi tdo5h 16g turbo". Make sure you only buy "mhi" which is a genuine Mitsubishi turbo. There are tons of fakes so be careful!!! Here you go >m.facebook.com/groups/163308627141194?view=permalink&id=1467866880018689

Your welcome 👍

8x1.25x20mm from ace hardware. Fully threaded bolt without shoulder 👍

1gs are easier. Head oil feed is already there. No oil filter housing plug to put in. Good luck👍

@@TPGDSM awesome video man! i’ve had a few cars but this is the first one i deemed “cool enough to make fast”! i got a little lost reading about a “J tube” on the forms so your video helped me out lots! thanks for the info!!

10x1.25x20 join dsmtuners.com and a ton of this type of info is only a click or two away for ya

I put a nipple on the j pipe. Boost controller would have to go from waste gate nipple to boost source. J pipe worked great for me

Honestly I didn't run a restrictor at all. I used a 1g tdo5h style head oil feed line. If your getting smoke at stop lights are you sure it's from oil?

@@TPGDSM oh thats why you didnt had any issue, problably the conector of your feed line into the turbo already has an restrictor because when you get to use the original oil feed from the 1g to the head the oil pressure is stronger than coming from the oil filter housing so if u dont use an restrictor it will smoke from the turbo, i know its oil because it has oil all over in the intercooler and etc...

@@bmsheadworks I see If i had to guess I'd say you may have a bad seal or worn bearing in your turbo if your planning on throwing in a restrictor. I was always taught that ball bearing turbos required restrictors and all journal bearing turbos didn't need them. Does your t-25 have shaft play in and out or side to side?. I guess you could slap an inline filter in your feed line to help slow the flow?. Maybe a small amount of restriction would help. Hopefully someone else will chime in and share where you may be able to pick one up!. I'd guess extreme PSI may have something. An line to restrictor to turbo..

Hey Davd Vega, We actually pieced this kit together. We got the big 16g turbo from a seller on dsm classifieds Facebook page, ordered a 7cm turbine housing through eBay, ordered oil return lines/turbo coolant lines/ head to turbo oil feed line for a 1994 gsx off of *EXTREMEPSI.COM and to delete the Garret t-25 oil feed line you can watch how the stock line gets removed along with the port on the oil filter housing and you plug it with a Napa parts store 3/8 BSPT thread pitch (British standard pipe thread) plug. The plug was the hardest part to source locally but it went in fine. If you would like further information or a parts list you can contact us at todaysprojectguide@gmail.com 👍

I'm pretty sure I didn't take the upstream sensor out of the O2 housing but maybe I'm wrong?. I did however have to swap turbine housings so it all had to be pulled apart. Next one's going to be bigger this summer

It's a 3/8 BSPT plug. They sell em on Amazon or Napa. I got mine at either Fastenal or ace hardware (but also ordered one just in case) hope that helps

@@TPGDSM i might go for the oilfilter Line direct from the filterhousing because i Think the Line I have is Long enough. Keep posting 🙏 your content is amazing 💪🏽

@@christianbavnild thank you 👍 I'm glad you're finding it useful!

I'm actually in upstate ny a few miles north of albany. I finally met a few guys in neighboring cities so I know the feeling man.

Intercooler kit is 2.5inches in diameter. J pipes can be found on eBay and Amazon or at extremepsi.com made for the "tdo5h 16g turbo" . Search by turbo and you'll find it in one of those places. 👍

You can Install the big 16g with the stock fuel injectors but it's highly recommend to at least re-wire the stock fuel pump to get as much as possible out of it. But to answer your question you definitely can swap out your turbo and safely run 10-14lbs of boost. Also in my personal opinion I wouldn't try to use the stock oil feed line because most of the kits ive seen required you to cut and modify the oil line and it was just easier to buy the $30 head oil feed line and the 3/8 BSPT plug. Do you have a tuning solution like ecmlink or a MAF translator?

T. P. G. Today's Project Guide Thank you for responding I will look into getting the oil feed line and the and the plug and no I do not have those.

@@nathensantos6186 I have a video on maf-translator install. They're about $150 and are extremely simple to Install. Quick easy tuning solution. Good luck with your install. Also if your swapping into a 2g dsm the turbo water lines from a 94 gsx will help you out. I had to do lots of heating and bending to make mine work. Keep this post updated if you have any other issues.

T. P. G. Today's Project Guide Okay I will, thank you for the help!

@@TPGDSM where did you acquire the plug sir ? xtreme psi fucked up my order and im done doing business with them

I put a nipple off the j pipe towards the end.

That's a bummer man! You can get em cheap on eBay or if your crafty and have the tools you can trace the outlet with cardboard and cut out the flange from some 18gauge steel and make your own. Obviously way more labor intensive BUT you can make it your way. Lmk if you need a good j pipe link. Facebook.com/dsmclassifieds has em on there constantly

@@TPGDSM Yeah I just spent a couple bux to get the j pipe kit off ebay, now I wait. lol

@@EbayTurbo at least there still are some parts floating around on there for our cars. Good luck with your build!

I drilled a 1/4 in hole in the j pipe and soldiered in a 1/4in npt barb fitting. Still holding up fine incase you were planning on doing the same.

Attach to boost source. If your compressor side of your turbo has a vacuum nipple then attach there. If using a manual boost controller attach it (boost controller ➡️ to wastegate).

Make sure your afpr is set to 43.5psi, run a vacuum hose from wastegate to boost source (on the turbo or charge piping someplace that sees boost) don't get boost/vac reference for your afpr from your wastegate/boost controller line and keep it around stock psi levels. You should be fine. Not a guarantee by any means bc everyone's 20 year old cars in different mechanical shape 😂 but you should be fine to cruise around. These cars are somewhat rich from the factory. You running ECMLINK or ecuflash/evoscan?

@@TPGDSM gonna check my afpr today and the car seems to pull fine in second gear but 3rd gear it hits fuel cut right after 5k rpm and I have yet to get dsm link or a boost controller Im going to be ordering one today.

@@ihatejavier I would be careful turning it up any higher than in stock until you get some sort of tuning software and a wideband. Once you start putting bigger turbos and fuel systems in these cars, you need to have some way to monitor your air fuel ratio and make adjustments. All it takes is getting knock really bad. One time 3 seconds later we got to melted piston or a rod through the block

Turbos and injectors so far. We're going through fuel in the coming weeks 👍

@@TPGDSM Nice. just install of turbo and injectors? And tuning later ? What ecu are you running ? 😅 i cant wait to see more of the Eclipse

@@christianbavnild if you watch through the latest 8-10 episodes we've don't a lot as far as tuning, gauges and control. Check it out👍. Always have more coming😁

@@TPGDSM I Will try to watch Them. I am buying, fuel pump and injectors soon. I Will try watch the other videoes with gauges ect. 👍🏼 looking forward to see some pulls with the 16g so i know What i Can expect 😉

@@christianbavnild I posted one doing some of my first pulls with it recently. Only set to 10 in the beginning. Ended at 16-18 but didn't want to stress out the stock fuel system past that. Super fun and pulls like hell already. Once she's got fuel we'll do some wot tuning and dialing in bigger injectors. Gonna be fun 😁

Yeah maybe I was just a little nervous lol didn't want to punch a hole through my 20-year-old radiator at the time haha I'm sure it can be done without the removal though, but extra space is always nice in these things 👍

The one in the oil filter housing? Or inside the turbo itself?

10x1.25x20 most napa stores carry similar parts. You can cut em down if they're 25mm👍

@@TPGDSM the banjo bolt and fitting, right?

I used it to take up the space for a 2.5in coupler that's all.

Oh thank you

If you run a ball bearing turbo then you may not have them being used anymore. What turbo do use?

@@TPGDSM it was the 2g turbo on the a 1g engine. It's been running like that this whole time I guess. Im doing the same exact swap so I'm gonna hook that line back up

@@TPGDSM oh yea im doing the same exact swap you did. Thank you for responding. So I'm guessing I should definitely hook that line back up since yours has it too??

@@dan79transam65 yeah is add the water lines. They save the life of the turbo. Extreme PSI.com sells em for a good price for you if you need em 👍

@@dan79transam65 of you are running the 16g is recommend using them. You may be able to make some(like i had to) out of standard water line from AutoZone and some 90 degree elbows covered in heart barrier. Make sure to bleed the cooling system after 👍

@JAO I'm not sure exactly how much horsepower it added but now it spools up quicker (with 3in exhaust) and safely boosts to 22psi. Surprisingly enough the OEM clutch was replaced prior to me buying the car and my fuel trims look good so we're rolling forward with it. The big 16g looses efficiency around 300-340hp. I'm not 100% sure on the CFM figures.

@tk106 thanks for looking out. This housing isn't stock. It's actually a remanufactured 7cm turbine housing. If you look back in our videos you can see the inside of the wastegate flapper and it operated find. If you look up some of the other remanufactured housings they all have this extra spacer in that location.

Today's Project Guide ok. Just didn’t look normal to me. I had a b16g w turbo lab 7cm housing and that pivot came out and wastegate was stuck open. Had to send it back and the tacked it in place.

Tk106 thanks for keeping an eye out for me! Hopefully other folks see your comment and it helps them if they have the same issue.

No tuning necessary if you run no boost controller on wastegate pressure. Once you turn up the boost past 14psi you run into fuel cut and move past where the stock fuel pump and injectors can safely run. But you can safely swap out the stock t 25 and run the 13g, 14g, 16g or big t-28 on wastegate pressure.

@@TPGDSM I have a 16g turbo on mine and it fuel cuts past 15 psi I bought higher cc fuel injectors, bigger wastegate, and maf translator with gm maf. After I install all that will I be fine or do I need a bigger fuel pump?

@@Gucci_Peralta if your hitting fuel cut you'll definitely need to add some more fuel pump to it. Pick up the walbro 190lph kit from extremepsi.com and follow my "walbro 255" install vid. That fuel pump wont over run the stock fuel pressure regulator on the driver side of the rail. Once you've got that done throw in your maf translator and injectors and take it for a 15psi test drive. Then up the boost a couple lbs. Unfortunately you won't be able to log any knock retard with a maf translator. You should look into a data logger. To be honest I used the maf translator for awhile and couldn't ever get it dialed exactly where I wanted it to be. Sure the car would run and boost but I wasn't able to see the all mighty knock retard, adjust timing, or data log with it. Still you should be safe running an aem wideband and the maf as long as you understand fuel trims. (Ex. Idle no load stoichiometric ratio pump gas 14.70, under 15psi of boost with load 10.8 etc..) I used a bluetooth dongle that actually logged knock retard on my cell phone and would make basic logs. Maybe try that route until you can afford ecmlink v3 which I ABSOLUTELY LOVE in comparison. Hope that helps 👍👍

The turbo oil feed line from head has 2 different size banjo bolts, you reuse the one from your stock t-25 and in your kit you should have recieved a single banjo bolt which goes in on the front left side (thermostat housing side) of the head. You should see a Allen head on the front and directly to the left of that is a bolt plugging the head oil feed port. Hope that answers your question. If not let me know

Oh I seen we're you did it the same way I did mines already installed I was just wondering if that was the right spot for oil flow to work cuz at first you pointed at the front one but thank you

@@jordanwigley8909 gotcha, glad you're all set👍

Yes sir 👍

@@TPGDSM so you used a smaller 02 housing for that 16g?

@@jsngrmjo8525 I used a used complete 16g. Unfortunately for me it was badly cracked so I picked up a replacement 7cm housing off eBay which I linked below. Also you need a 1g head oil feed line, and if your replacing the stock t25 you’ll want a 3/8BSPT Plug for the oil filter housing when you remove the garrets oil feed line. Only Bspt threads fit it. Check Facebook dsm classifieds for a 14b or 16g. Pick up a 7cm housing and then you can take the compressor and wheel off and make it a hybrid 20g like I did. Here’s a link for the 20g kit below as well. www.ebay.com/itm/112143420036?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hXpNVxUvR_i&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY www.ebay.com/itm/153461922528?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=29ZQIU18RLm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@TPGDSM Kool good info what I've been wanting to do is run my 16g on external wastegate do you have any inputs?

@@jsngrmjo8525 if you don’t have an external gated manifold you can open up the port under the stock wastegate flapper and you should be fine. External is always better but you can make it work by opening that port. I’m running a hybrid 20g tdo6h cold side with the 7cm hot side and ported wastegate hole with no creep

Replaced all shifter base bushings with solid brass, replaced the shifter cup bushing's, new short shifter and shift linkage (solid) bushings as well. Episode#8 👍

Thanks for the info. We've been having a horrible audio overlay issue that another viewer brought to our attention. We have new lavalier mics and new audio editing equipment for all future uploads. For some reason the background music is quiet through our Sony speakers and after switching to Bose speakers we hear the congestion and loud music playback that wasn't present in editing prior. Thanks again!

I was gna say listen to how cocky he talks about that stock turbo. Lol

@@kainc7136 just happy the blow t25 was swapped and the car was drivable again. Bigger fp greens coming around episode 45 lol

@@TPGDSM I need a 16g also. Got a recommendation where to get it?

@@kainc7136 I had really good luck on Facebook marketplace DSM Classifieds page. Tons of parts. You can buy a used big 16g for $175-$300 randomly. And they're super easy to swap out center sections (chra) or turbine housings if they need it. Rebuilding is basic to until the blade balancing aspect comes in. Make sure you find a MHI authentic. Lots of fakes going around still. Extremepsi.com has them brand new If you want brand new. Lmk if you need any help sourcing and I'll make some calls for you

Yeah newbie KZfaq mistakes... 🤷

Rodger that!. We're still really new to KZfaq and any criticisms are more than welcome!. Thanks for the input 👍 Side note new audio equipment will be implemented from here on to help cut out background noise.