Jay, a couple of points from a truck driver: 1) You want a minimum of two revolutions of strap wrapped around the drum - if the strap gets wet it can slip if the load shifts without two revolutions on the drum. 2) That loose flapping tail of the strap is called a dog ear and it is against the law. Very dangerous and is considered an unsecure load. What you showed is going to be left up to interpretation by law enforcement. If I was to use that method, I would still take a zip tie and secure it back onto the strap - zip ties are cheap. 3) The C-clamp - Negative! That would be considered an attachment point and is regulated bylaw - also the carabiner, get it gone. DOT regulates the equipment to be used to secure a load, and climbing equipment is not in the book for securing loads regardless of it weight rating. You take an authorized strap and attach it straight to an authorized attachment point. The biggest take away I want you and your viewers to take away from this is - don't get creative when securing a load. Even those two cleaver chaps at the home improvement store - those straps must be rated. If they are doing this job for hire - they are held to the same laws as a truck driver is with the securement of that load. They are required to have clearly marked load ratings on the straps they use. If you are doing business in commerce you are held to all the laws when it comes to load securement. Even private Joe hauling his motor cycle or race car needs to step up their game and use rated straps with proper attachment points that are also rated for their needs. Good straps are not that much more in price, and it lets you and everyone else know the load is secure. 4) Check your load in the first 100 miles after you secured it down and start on a trip - it is not only smart to do, but is required by law. Check the load every time you stop after that. I hauled flat beds for a number of years and loading and unloading was my Zen time. I worked where I even got to load and unload most of what I hauled. Even tarping an un-tarping a load became an art form for me. Most drivers want to drop and hook - not me. I want to control every aspect of a load I can - and get paid for it too.

6:55 I drove commercially and trained flatbed drivers on load securement. Whoever told you that was full of it. That is exactly what that pawl is for, and why some have a slight notch for your finger to stay centered. Normally you don't need to manually pull it, but there are occasions you will. Everything else was good advice for the beginner. And I like the tip you showed how to deal with extra strap. I'd normally roll it up and tuck it under the strap on those little ones. In the 2in and 3in straps, you can roll it and tuck it back through the ratchet handle as you close it. One more tip: When feeding the strap through the ratchet, wind the empty ratchet until the reel openings are up and down. Close the ratchet and you can feed the strap from the bottom to the top in one motion. Then start ratcheting. And one thing you forgot, your securements (straps or chains) will normally loosen up as your load settles. If you're going more than a mile or two, stop about five or ten minutes after loading and check your securements to make sure they're still tight.

You were able to make this simple and painless, the best video on this subject that I have seen. Good job,

Thanks Jay! We're the guys from the Lowes. Love your videos. Always learn alot. Glad we could help!

1. When you hook the two hooks to each other, put the hook of one side inside the hole that is behind the s part of the other hook. This is less likely to pull apart. 2. When I haul one or 2 boards or pieces of plywood, I wrap a strap all the way around the board crossing it under and when I tighten up it cinches the strap tight around the board. I leave the tailgate even with UP with boards longer than the truck bed, when I’m not hauling a lot of boards. I liked your video. I put a shop towel around the touch points of the straps on my ebike to protect the bike. Never never trust bungee cords. They are the number one cause of blindness in young people!

I'd like to add that if your strap will be in free air as you drive ( like over a tall item) it's actually better to have twists in it to keep it from vibrating.

As a flatbed truck driver, I’d say you’re not wrapping enough strap around the barrel of the ratchet. The strength of the hold doesn’t come from the small hooks and small plate. It comes from the wrap mostly. The more wraps you can get, the better. Leave a little slack, don’t tug tight before ratcheting. Get a good 2-3 wraps around the barrel. That won’t cause jamming and will hold more securely. Also, if you don’t want your strap to flutter in the wind, put one half rotation on one side, flat across the top, and one half rotation on the other side with feeding the strap through the barrel flat. Still, have 2-3 wraps around the barrel. This will not only be a stronger hold than shown here, but it’ll prevent the strap from fluttering in the wind. Hope this helps.

Here is a tip for you. Don't insert the strap the way you are doing it with the lever open. You should ratchet the drum until the slot is perpendicular to the automatic pawl/spring catch/release tab, then you shut the lever. This makes it so you can lace the strap through the drum and not have to thread it back through the lever. Two actions instead of three. Makes it easier when it is cold and with gloves on.

Here's a couple of tips from a long time ratchet strap user: Always have some rubber bands on hand, when you are done using your straps, wind the strap end and store it using rubber bands, this will keep them from getting tangled,( Always store the strap and ratchet separately) When transporting PVC pipe or round objects, wrap your strap around the pipe, when you tighten the ratchet, this will cause the strap to tighten around the pipe, and will keep pieces of pipe from getting loose. From time to time apply some WD 40 to your ratchets, this will keep them operating smoothly. If you are transporting for a long time-take a break and check that your straps are still tight and in the same place where you started!

As an adult daughter, thank you for teaching me the things my dad never did. God bless you sir

Like one commenter already mentioned, always twist the strap that goes cross the load to prevent it vibrating agaist the surface, long journey and the surface is ruined. It does not weaken the strap at all, only knots do. Sometimes (usually...) even professional truckers leave the straps flat and straight. My usual boat transporting trucker once said that those "flat strappers" are the ones with a peanut in the place of brains.

Hi Jay !!! Oh man I’m 68 yrs old and I know one of the facts of life is you learn stuff everyday till you die 👍🏻 You just made my day with this video ! Man ! I used big ones strapping loads down 20 times a day driving tractor trailers. People might never forget how to ride a bicycle no matter what but since I don’t drive anymore, I only use them once in a blue moon and only tie something down on my truck or somebody else’s truck once in a blue moon. And if I haven’t done it in 7 or 8 months I can’t remember at all which way it goes. After about three or four tries, I would finally figure it out. Your idea is unbelievable. Thanks so much and I’ll never forget how to do this. I’ll tell you what….. 75% of the people in this world have no clue how to use a ratchet strap tiedown. If they want to know how to do it the easiest way ever all they Gotta do is “ look up Dirt Farmer “J” on KZfaq” 👍🏻 ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ You’re The Man !!!

If you decide to use the to use the C clamp system please put some kind of a safety lanyard to the C clamp. If that C clamp comes loose on the highway you could do some serious damage as it bounces off people’s cars. Just don’t do it.

Who ever knew something as simple as a ratchet strap could be so misunderstood? What I learned from your video: Stop storing the straps with the long end rolled onto the crank; instead, start with the strap separated from the crank. ( I've always tried to avoid pulling the strap all the way out of the crank because I was never quiet sure how it was "supposed" to go back in.) This takes me to what I learned from reading through the comments: As you demonstrated in the video, start with the ratchet arm facing away from the load. Next, close the ratchet arm but be sure the slot is in a position to easily insert the strap through from the load facing side and out the other side. Do not pull too much slack out of the strap, you want at least 2 full revolutions of the strap on the drum. You can put a single twist in the strap to reduce wind noise and strap wear. Use only transportation approved fasteners and fasten points.

Excellent! All YT videos should be produced this well: good audio, good video, good content. No cheesy graphics, obnoxious music. Straight and to the point. Liked and subscribed.

I've used a 3/4 inch garden hose, cut it about eight inches then slice a groove in it, slap it over the end of the Angle iron on my trailer to avoid any abrasive edge on the strap. Works great. Stays in place while I'm adjusting the straps with minimal , sometimes zero pressure from the overlying strap.

I you start with rachect closed you dont need to feed it back through the 2nd time.

3:35 start with the handle closed and the slot aligned and it is one movement, no pass back through.

Good points. When securing a load subjected to winds from highway speeds a single twist in the strap midway helps prevent the humming and strap vibration caused by the air.

I’ve made every mistake you mentioned. Wish I saw this years ago! A million thanks!

I'm another one that has always struggled with these darns crank straps. I especially like the trick on how to secure all the excess strap once the load is secure. That was very kewl. Great job and clear instructions 👍

I keep my straps in old socks in a 3 gallon bucket in the pick ups tool box. Thanks for posting this, especially the loose end management👍

My tip is to tie the end of the strap in a knot so it doesn't accidentally pull out and you have to figure out which way to re install it :)

Never use a C-clamp! They can easily loosen during transport due to road vibration - and can turn into a metal missile that can do serious damage.

I have been hauling pallets on a flatbed for a sawmill using much bigger straps. I don't do everything that you do. But I really like your tricks. You gave me a education today and I really appreciate your advice.I found it very helpful and entertaining.

Jay: great video. Good pace and you present in a manner that is easy to follow, yet not condescending to any newbie (like myself) when it comes to securing loads. Appreciate it.

that canvas bag is adorable!

As an FYI, If you fold closed your handle with the slot facing upward, it is much quicker and easier to feed the loose end strap webbing through the slot, pull slack out and begin ratcheting... No need then to pull one direction and then feed the end back through the handle as it is all ready in place.

ACTUALLY Attention Jay: A good idea I use to store my ratchet straps is a cheap plastic Harbor Freight Ammo Can!! In my truck I have an extended cab and I found the ammo can laying on its side slides neatly under the rear seat out of the way!! Not only are the ratchet straps "safely stored" this way, but because it is an Ammo can it won't open as it slides around either!!

Another inexpensive and handy item to prevent the strap contacting and chafing a boat surface or to prevent the strap from being damaged on a sharp edge is to use a pool noodle, cut open lengthwise through the core, and then cut into one-foot lengths.

I insert the strap into the tightener a bit differently than shown at 3 minutes into the video. I close the tightener, making sure that the slot is at 90° to the direction of the two arms of the tightener. Next I insert the strap through the slot and pull out most of the slack and tighten as shown. This saves having to handle the loose end of the strap twice. It's important to leave a little slack before tightening the strap. The strap needs to turn around the shaft far enough to lock the strap down. I've had a strap come loose because I hadn't left enough slack for the strap to fully lock down.

If you ever see a steelhauler loading sheet goods, they will lay a couple 4 by 4's on the steel and then throw the chain across. It's hard to explain, but if you see it done, it makes total sense.

Great tips Jay. I have used ratchet straps for many years now, mainly for securing atv's and side by sides. A tip from me is make sure you have at least one full turn of the strap barrel with the strap when tightening. This way when the suspension of any machine works ( or anything that may flex) it won't loosen the strap on the barrel.

Suggestion…if you have a fair distance between the end hook and ratchet and the strap is exposed to the wind, it will flutter like crazy in the wind. A couple of twists in the section under tension will prevent flutter. Learned this from a trucker with ratchet straps used every day. Used the trick in the white bimini straps on my boat. Stops flutter completely. JoeB

Dirt Farmer Jay: I'm glad to know you're there and will check with you next time I've got a problem that needs solving.

Thank you so much for this I am a single Lady of 66 years who has to do a lot of stuff alone so use these straps often and yes I have always had a frustrating time with them but thanks too you not any more

Good stuff. I don't use my straps all that much and when I do I always forget the proper procedures. Thanks !

Wow, I have used straps like this for years and feel pretty solid in my capabilities, but still learned a lot. I will be using these tips many times! Thank you!

Day before yesterday I saw a beautiful piece of ratchet strapping on the roadside & thought someone's strap had loosed & fell off, so turned around to retrieve it. It was a heavy duty 2 inch yellow strap. I was surprised to see it had ripped apart at the ratchet even though it was brand new. Upon closer examination I discovered it was a 16 foot loose end that must have been dragging & blowing in the wind, until the end flopped under a wheel. When the wheel rolled forward on top of the strap it provided enough tension to RIP this 2,000+ pound test strap apart. I saw the rubber tire tracks on the strap that solved the mystery. LESSON BEING, never neglect securing the loose end of a strap! If it was the primary strap holding the load, it could easily cause a fatal accident if the load fell off resulting in someone behind running over it or died trying to avoid it.😖

Flatbed truckers call those "X" straps when they cross like that. They use them on the front or rear of a load mainly. Reputable flatbed trucking companies train their drivers on how to do the "X" straps among other techniques not shown here. Free pro tip too...you can use the excess strap (rolled or folded) as "padding" to help prevent the rest of the strap from getting cut/damaged as well. A D.O.T. officer will ding (negative inspection vs. clean inspection) a truck driver in a D.O.T. inspection for cut/chaffed/damaged straps.

I've been using these for years, always confused on how to use them. Now thanks to your video, it was very edicational. I am now a strapping expert. thank you. Dirt Farmer Jay.

Good tips for those that haven’t figured it out. I formally worked at a auto parts store and often had to train people on how to use them. They should have watched your video. Just as a added tip, you can flip your receiver hitch over and use it as a spot to run strap as a anchor point to keep load from sliding also. Just takes a longer strap. Keep teaching brother. Folks out there need it.

Put one twist in the strap line before going thru the ratchet to prevent it from humming in the wind

This is awesome!

Thank you Chuck Howard and DFJ! DFJ thank you for the detail in setting up the strap! I use one at work and have no problem operating it but when I have to put it back together I am usually screwed. Your camera work shows how to do it in detail. Thank you for that!

I bought a strap. Having never used one, I tried to follow the directions on the packaging. The first thing I did was get that double roll going, filling up the mechanism quite quickly. Before even watching your video, I somehow stumbled onto your technique to undo the mess. I hopped online and found your video, and I have now avoided other mistakes I would have definitely made. Thanks for the tips and techniques!

Great tips!!! Thank you! Almost chucked a wadded up one.

I've used the straps for years but just learned some great tips I never thought about. Another use I have discovered for my straps is that when working on a very large woodworking piece like a bed frame, the ratchet straps are a great woodworking clamp for holding pieces together and taking out some warp in boards that are beyond the reach of all but the longest and most expensive woodworking clamps. They also allow you to do more work by yourself when no helpers are available.

I have successfully used ratchet straps to seat the bead on tubeless tires as I don't have a compressed air bead seater. A small one for the front tire of a zero turn mower and a medium one for a vehicle or front end tractor tire. It's possible that a large one would work for a rear tractor tire as a lot of squeezing pressure can be created. It's been the cat's meow several times for my situation.

i think its easiest to feed the strap though in the closed locked position. the way this video show its like feeding it though 2 times. you must alight the cam 90 degrees from the handle so it feeds strain though. Ill have to try the loop for storage. a lot of time i use the ratchet handle to lock down the free tail end. it has teeth under it i think its designed for it. I use the straps at least 50 times a week for work.

Just a quick one for releasing bound up ratchet straps which I learned growing up in & around the trucking, heavy duty equipment industry from an early age. Although I did not stay in that line of work directly, being in equipment sales and service, an avid outdoorsman and boater I have used proper loading techniques for years. Try this and it will make life alot easier using mechanical ratchet straps: Open the ratchet to it's full open position; keeping tension on it the loaded strap & the release pulled, give it a quick jerk to induce movement to the strap. If it doesn't release the drum to turn freely which can be caused by various reasons such as corrosion, road grime or bent ratchet components then the ratchet handle can be ratcheted in reverse to back the strap off the drum until enough play is available to release the load and tension by keeping tension on the load strap...just back it off in reverse keeping tension on the load until enough play is gather to release the hook(s). Then, once the strap is removed from the load secure the tail side hook onto a stationary point, open the ratchet flat, pull on it and sequencing it between open and closed position will allow the drum to back the strap out. (Make sure to clean, lubricate or replace the ratchet before re-using). Learned and have practiced it successfully for over 40 years using 5k & 10K lb commercial load straps and find it works just as well with light weight load straps as well!

Pretty nice advice. One super-unknown tip: Rooftop strap-downs are what most are doing these days. Kayaks, canoes, lumber, etc. Many times those nice, neat, flat straps set up a harmonic hum at highway speed that can drive one nuts. Simple cure. Twist the straps a few times on the wind driven side.

A couple of years ago, I had a couple of the big binder type paperclips laying around. I folded up my excess strap and secured everything with that binder paperclip and it works like a charm. I've used the same two binders for over 2 years and it still works flawlessly.

I use them all the time for setting beads on tires wheel barrels, lawn tractors ect.

G'day Jay, from down Under! 🇦🇺 Thanks for the vid! The straps easily jam when securing soft loads (eg. Hay, straw, trimmed bushes/branches), where a lot of slack is in play. Sometimes releasing and starting again is enough, but if not, using a pair of straps tightened alternately works well. Thanks also to all who post useful comments! 😁 Great to learn from y'all!! 👍

I use ratchet straps twice a year when I trailer a boat. I always foul them up. Thanks for tips. Hopefully the process will go much smoother this season.

Leave the ratchet closed when you thread the strap through, pull on the tail for some tension.

Jay one thing I would do to avoid Harmonic Vibration in your straps is to twist the straps where wind can cause a terrible vibration.

You are such a good teacher. Heading off to pick up roofing with the grands and ratchets always make me nervous. Especially when being watched! Thanks for giving me confidence!

Most carabiners are aluminum and will wear quickly when clipped to a steel hard point and vibrated. Look for steel carabiners specifically.

Great video, but I have to disagree or clarify on 3 points. 1- Laying the strap flat is a mistake when hauling at highway speed. That will allow the wind to turn your strap into a really annoying musical instrument. To avoid vibration put a 1/2 twist in the strap between every contact point with the load. If you're saying "but that will weaken the strap!" you have been misinformed. Tests have shown that no noticeable weakening will occur until significant twisting occurs 2- carabiners. When using a screw gate caribiner be sure the screw is closed under load. This is especially true if the gate has a "keyhole" style retention system rather than the pin and hook style. For my money I'd just go with quick links. The harder steel will retain its shape better than soft aluminum. Nicks and gouges are stress risers that over time will contribute to fatigue and potential failure. Steel is less likely to be nicked. If rust in the threads of the quicklink is a problem spray a bit of WD-40 or dab a bit of antiseize. Even some green thread locker wouldn't be a bad idea. And on that note... 3- WD-40 is not lube. It is a rust preventative. WD stands for Water Displacement. For corrosion to occur four things are required: An anode, a cathode, an electrolyte, and a flow of electrons. WD-40 and most corrosion preventers work by shielding the metal from the electrolytes which are suspended in water. Keeping the water from resting on the metal is the key. So what should you use to lube joints instead? Any decent silicone lubricant will work fine. There are satisfactory products under brands like Liquid Wrench, PB, WD-40, and others. Not the original products of those names, but the brand used for name recognition. Anyway great video, but since this is mostly for DIY noobs I thought I'd better clear up some misconceptions.

Great tips, Like others have said "if I knew this years ago" :) One observation though, when connecting to the strap hooks. Try not to connect (hook/carabiner) back on the metal loop the strap is on. This will cross load the metal loop. If the loop was welded back on it's self, then no problem. Seeing that there all pinched back on them selves, with enough force it could bend back and the strap could slip out/off. Instead hook on to the stitched loop on the strap and let that hook dangle.

Some great advice there!I've been troubled by ratchet straps for ages ,ended up using rope,now I know how to really use them!Many thanks, you're a great teacher!

When you have an overspooled/bent/corroded ratchet you can manually spin them in the unwind direction by putting a flat blade screwdriver perpendicularly, or I use the back of a closed spyderco folding knife in the slot on the end of the barrel(where the keeper pin goes through)

I very much appreciate you going over the release of a jammed strap (at the end).

I'm sorry but that second "grabber" does not release like yours and I have to fight trying to release that dangerous one at the same time as the easy release bracket, too much trouble, I just grab some rope and I'm done, ( cheaper too)

You can fold up the whole strap, the handle and the whole strap, used to haul lumber and used commercial straps to strap down loads. The whole strap will be rolled up as one piece and be ready for the next load.

I use old socks to store them when not in use... they're free! Just open the ratchet fully and start wrapping end over end. Then, stick it in a sock!

When using quicklinks or 'biners just be careful of how you load the eyelet on the hook. Some ratchet straps have enough room to connect straight to the fabric sling, but if you can't do that just double check how they're loaded. Those bent hooks aren't welded, and they can easily open up if you put force on the wrong axis. It's still a good idea, but you just need to keep an eye on them.

These all seem to be "good ideas" for those who use a ratchet strap once every year or two. Thank God I learned all these tips and tricks (and many more) by using them daily over the last 50 plus years.

Great explanation! Thank you

I’ve always struggled with these. Thank you so much for making such a great how-to videos for them!!

You are the best! Knowledge and personality too. Very good combination. I learned something I've been doing wrong for years. Thank you.

with the way you set up the strap you are double winding the strap and can bind up the ratchet before . just thread it thru , start ratcheting and tuck the tail under the strap and it will keep it from blowing in the wind , been doing this for 30 ytears of trucking , so ive done it a few times, when releasing it if you pull it in the oposite direction of the long end it will open quicker and completely , Can unstrap a full semi in less then 5 minutes,just by feeding the strap under the handle ,rather then doubling the strap it gets tight

This was a major help! I’ve seen other videos demonstrating quickly how to thread it, but you took a little more time to show it, and it let me know what I was doing was correct even though it looked off.

Thank you, Jay! You helped me to use the spaghetti mess I made when I unpackaged my straps. Also, the tip on how to cinch-secure the excess strap was perfect.

In the beginning, leave it closed in the locked position to feed the strap through. After taking out all the slack and making sure there are no twists, you can open it and start ratcheting. P.S. for setting up a slackline, set it up upside down and ratchet from the bottom to avoid the ratchet from twisting the strap with its weight.

I run a recording studio and I just bought a set of these to use with my mobile rig to keep my gear from falling off while taking it on location and this video answered all my questions, thanks so much!

I love the technique of rolling up the remained of the strap! I always tied the end to something to keep it from blowing around, but your idea is a much better way to secure it. Thanks!

Again Google is watching me, this video came up right after I got done srtuggling to release a ratchet strap (I was doing it incorrectly). Thanks for this video! Now I know what I am doing and I even tested it out!

Your a very good instructor, a job well done Jay. Scary as I drive around the country and drivers that don't have their loads securely tied down. Jay here's a teaching point you might also look into is , speed ratings on trailer tires. I see everyone with a 1/2 ton truck pulling a trailer going 85 mph and I know these trailer tires are not rated for those speeds.

Excellent “how-to”. These suckers have been my enemy the few times I’ve needed these over the years!

Thanks man, I have been fumbling with these for a long time; now the light finally shines. 👍🏼

😊 thank you soo much! I'm a pretty handy chickie, but these things, sheesh, they have always been an enigma in my family- no one ever knew what tf they were doing. LoL Big ups to you, Good Sir! 👍🏼

Great tips - thank you. You advised to avoid having twists in the strap. I found that straight, flat straps will 'hum' or 'vibrate' loudly when driving on the highway, which is really annoying. I've found that putting a couple of twists in the strap over long lengths will stop the noise completely. As you say though, it's really important to keep any twists out of the ratchet mechanism - they'll quickly jam it up!

i used to carry some 1" ID PVC pipe that was cut to about 4 inch lengths and cut in half to add radius to whatever i'm going over if it is a hard edge, now i have a trailer that has box rails that have a radiused edge and i wrap the strap around the rail and hook back to the strap webbing itself if i'm unable to reach the tiedown in the bed of the trailer, such as for hauling brush, i also have some commercial straps that are 3 inches wide and are roughly a quarter inch thick, that have the large "V" style hook, and that fits perfectly around the square rail for heavier loads such as big heavy brush, trash, debris etc, light brush gets 3 or 4 of the smaller straps, heavy brush gets 3 of the big heavy "keeper" straps (also listed as "Haybale" straps), definately good information that you have provided in the video, another good way i've done in the past of "policing" up the tag end of the tail is to roll it up, flatten it, and use a small bungee cord thats around 3 or 4 inches long and wrap the tag, then hook it back around the webbing, or strap it to the side of the trailer top rail to keep it from flailing, this also helps when dealing with bulk loads that take up your entire work space in your truck or trailer and makes the tail easier to find, i also tend to do at least one full wrap around the drum on the ratchet strap which helps keep them tighter longer on long trips, as well as making sure you have a good positive lock on the webbing, but do keep in mind, even the big straps will "relax" and stretch over time, so be mindful on long trips to check your tightness at regular intervals, when you stop at a rest stop, or stop for fuel are good times to make sure your straps are still good and tight, also as someone else said, having the ratchets on the drivers side of your truck/trailer is a good reminder and a good early warning that a strap is loosening off, i lost one strap that way on a trip to the dump.... the ONLY time i've ever put the ratchets on the passengers side of the truck, and as you said in the video, you can exert an Alarming amount of force on a ratchet strap, enough to actually break the webbing if its over a hard edge, or if its under a lot of strain and has spent too much time in the weather, i store my straps in an old ammo box with a desiccant pack and a handful of small bungees to secure the tag end of the straps when in use, stay safe out there

This video was incredibly valuable, thank you. I bought ratchet straps to secure things to my bicycle; I definitely needed that tip for dealing with the slack!

Thanks so much for sharing this. The arm opening thing is helpful for me because I have had multiple TBIs that affect my ability to do/remember simple things like this without some cheat ideas. I am hoping this one will stick for me because I had to haul some stuff last month and it took me like 30mins to remember and get it to work and I was really stressed and embarrassed and mad and that makes it even harder to remember and do it. Anyway, thanks so much for this. I am saving this video!

Please don't use a c-clamp to secure a load while driving. If the strap vibrates excessively while driving, twist the strap once.

Ammo cans make great strap storage boxes... Also, small plastic cable clamps are the best for stowing excess strap flap!

I use my old socks for my straps storage, I cut the toe off then cut sock in half, I then roll strap around the ratchet and then place strap into half the sock ! Each sock cut in half holds two straps

Brilliant!! I always seem to struggle with these, as well. Not anymore!! Keep up the great videos!

Great tips. I have a new set for my rv awning tie downs and i am so glad I saw this before using them.

I've done head gaskets on 3 cars and all sorts of other mechanical stuff, but never knew how to use these things! Just never had the need. Thank for the informative video!

Super helpful. I couldn't figure this out on my own. Had to rewatch a few times to get it right. :) Thank you

I found after rolling up extra strapping, I can use velcro rap to hold it all together as well. Just another idea.

Love your excess strap rolling trick, never seen that one!

Use a spring clamp to secure the excess strap from flapping around.

Thanks for the tie up on loose ends, been driving me nuts for yonks, so clean and simple.

I learned so much about using ratchet straps in this video Jay, thanks so much!!!