Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Glad to help! 🕵🏻‍♂️

Though, I would not suggest using drywall mud for that. It will shrink and crack. I would suggest this however. I think it will work so much better for you. www.lowes.com/pd/Durham-s-64-fl-oz-Light-Yellow-Patching-and-Spackling-Compound/3143343

No problem 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Thanks for the info! Though you have to have a powerful drill to handle the thickness of the mud. I do like to have a second bucket and take half out of this one for the spilling reason. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

You are welcome, and good luck on your project.

Glad it was helpful! I need an updated series on how to apply joint tape and other things. Here is a good patch video of mine. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iqqEYLR6u7uuhHU.html

So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

That's good, but the mesh will crack in time unless there was something else there backing it.

Yep

So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Glad it was helpful!

So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Glad I could help

No problem!

So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

You're welcome!

I might try that sometime.

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

You're welcome 😊

That sounds exhausting.

Great question. Normally, when the weather is good I clean my tools in the yard with a hose. When the weather isn't good the sink is ok. But do scrape out all excess mud first. The standard joint compound is water soluble. It will never dry so that it can't be wet and softened again. Just let the sink run for a couple of minutes after you are done to make sure it is all gone down the drains. Now the quick setting compound is different because it contains a little bit of portland. So when that is dry, it is dry. Check out my webpage for drywall. I have videos for small and large patches as well. www.aroundthehome.org/drywall.html

Scrape it and then a spray bottle and rag. Easy.

I don't really know the amounts. I just have always added a bit then mixed it, and then added more as needed. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

@@AroundTheHome1 what if you over water? whats the fix for too soupy

​@@junkyinnyit'll dry out, or add more mud

Yes, absolutely. Just take out a pan full and add a little water. Mix it up with your six inch knife.

You're welcome! I like you sax playing.

@@AroundTheHome1 thank you, you're too kind.

@Janette Davis, not at all. Keep the content coming.

Thanks

That works too if you have a good beefy drill. Yep, very smooth.

@@AroundTheHome1 I just went to lowes and they sell a drill attachment for the small 1 gallon buckets.. you know if you put the concrete mixer on those small buckets it will spill everywhere, well they make these small mixers for those small buckets.. there is always a guy thinking about a solution to a problem :)

@@AroundTheHome1 Hey now that we are talking about mud.. do you know why the mud sometimes crack along the joints.. specially in the ceiling area? I don't do this professionally, I am just a DIYer, but it has happened twice now and I don't know what I am doing wrong.

Are you using that mesh tape?

@@AroundTheHome1 yes, mesh on ceiling.. Paper on walls.

So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Yep, a friend of mine is a caterer and has one for potatoes. Though, his is stainless steel. But I was there at his place doing a drywall patch and made him think I had his smasher for a moment. He had to go check 😉😆Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

@@AroundTheHome1 i have one i might put an extension pole on it

It will soften it a little, but not thin it out.

@@AroundTheHome1 I guess it depends on the brand. In my area, we have certainTeed-easyfill that is everywhere. It starts from close to what you showed and become diluted enough once you stirred it up that it can leak of your hawk. I found a 7 year old bucket that was still usable, obviously no recommended but wanted to try. Here, a Lot of guys find it too wet. I'm just a DIYer, no expert by any means.

I would be curious to try that brand then. The ones that I am used to will soften a little, but not that much if just stirred. They definitely need to be watered down a little.

How long of a wait time are we talking about?

You are so welcome. And I know what you mean by many people making wallpaper removal is super easy. I have two videos on it, and neither of them suggest that at all. I believe I actually say "May God have actual mercy upon your soul!" Good luck on your project. So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

@@AroundTheHome1 Omg I already got one coat on, that’s how easy adding just a bit of water made it!!!! Seriously can’t thank you enough!! I did this in my other bathroom remodel about two years ago (doing a whole bathroom remodel myself now as well) but man, did I have to fight with that thick compound to get it to adhere to the wall. Especially since Guardz makes it a bit of a slicker surface, that thick stuff kept peeling back with the movement of the knife. Not today though! I got none of that peeling!! It went in like a dream!! I’ll sand and skim again and then one more time for good measure. Probably won’t *need* that third time but I’m a bit of a perfectionist. I got the other bathroom walls looking like almost brand new sheetrock, I know I’ll be able to do it again but faster this time because of your little genius tidbit of help. Thanks man! I’m definitely going to check out some more of your stuff! Have a great day!

@@AroundTheHome1 And I am using what you got in this video, USG Plus 3, glad to hear you say it was the right compound because I bought before I saw this 😂 Great stuff! Last time I used what USG called ultra light, but it seems maybe Plus 3 has replaced that? Because I couldn’t find Ultra Light this time. But whatever! I got what I found had the best rating by pros like yourself.

That is so awesome. Your comments made my day.

No problem.

So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

It could be the dust from sanding. Is there still dust laying around? No paint yet?

@@AroundTheHome1 little bit of dust around, I did paint over it twice with an acrylic paint/primer but it was old so I don’t know if it’s the paint but it smells chalky.

Normally after you paint, the drywall smell goes away. That should seal it up.

It keeps for a while. I can't give an exact answer. Depends on how empty it is and the temperatures that it is kept in. Don't let it freeze or it is ruined. The lower it gets, the more air there is to dry it. You can actually add a little bit of water on top to keep it from drying out. Just pour it out before you use it next time. But after a number of months, less if it is really hot, the mud will sour. You will know it, when you open the lid is smells bad. Kinda like old pond water.

@@AroundTheHome1 Nice! Definitely going to give this a try. Thanks for the replies 👍🏼👊🏼

Sure sometimes I use the all purpose, but I generally use the lightweight. 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

@bumblebess if that is true, then I am unaware of it. This is what USG says on their website "What is the difference between All Purpose and Plus 3™ joint compounds? Sheetrock® Brand Plus 3™ Lightweight All-Purpose Joint Compound weighs about 25% less than Sheetrock® Brand All-Purpose Joint Compound. It is also easier to sand and shrinks less." And this is their description of Plus 3 "This all-purpose compound weighs up to 25% less than conventional-weight compounds so handling and applying are simpler, easier and faster. Sheetrock® Brand Plus 3® Joint Compound, offers all the benefits of conventional-weight compound but results in less shrinkage and is easy to sand. Use Sheetrock® Brand Plus 3® Joint Compound for embedding paper joint tape and finishing gypsum panel joints or simple hand-applied texturing." It does list embedding paper joint tape. I do appreciate the question, and if you have additional information please let me know. I have used both of these products and found no difference with their tape bonding properties. But I also do small remodels with limited drywall, I don't do drywall all day everyday. So if any other viewer has additional input please let us know.

​@@AroundTheHome1 Yea, I have read all that on the box too. All the pros usually 1:Prefill over 1/8 inch hot mud 2:Tape "All Purpose" more glue adheres better 3: 2 top coats Easy sand Plus 3. I thought about using just +3 as well. But as you know in any trade there is someone going to tell you you are doing it wrong 😁🙂 Whether it matters or not is a different story lol. Check out "Vancouver Carpenter" you will see Thats "ALL" the pros process. Not that you're doing it wrong, There's more than one way to Mud Drywall 🙂 if it works it works.

That's an interesting question. First, let me ask a question back. What kind of door is it? Steel, wood, or fiberglass? And is it smooth or textured at all?

@@AroundTheHome1 inside doors, they are basic factory made, hollowed, bedroom doors. I assume they are wood, a very hard card board wood???? right now they are painted, and have what appears to be a woodgrain under the paint, so I sanded the paint off of one corner just to see what happen & it took the wood grain away also. I was going to get a wood graining tool and texure them with joint compound and then attempt to paint or stain to make like real wood & then seal with polyeurthane. i looked into liquid wood, but i'm not super impressed with the results, especially for the cost. I feel I might getter a more realistic textured result using JC. whatchya think? and for a way better price than liquid wood.

I don't know how to pinch water. I honestly thought that I showed how much I was adding at a time. And it varies to your own bucket of mud. Different brands are slightly different on how watered down they are and if it has been sitting for a long time then it needs more water.

Yes it is. Though if you are talking about small nail holes then I recommend something easier to work with like lightweight spackle. Here is a video on that kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ic2Bi5d216jHgZ8.html

I think it is time that I give it a try. I know that I hate the mesh tape. Sorry that I don't have more info on that.

@@AroundTheHome1 - Cool no problem. I read a ton of really good reviews on it (many from contractors) so for my first drywall repair attempt this week I used it. People say it's far superior to anything out there but I have no past tape/mesh experience to compare it to

Fractionally. In the video I mention how I add a little more water to it as I progress in coats on the wall. That is because the coats should get thinner. Adding water adds more shrinkage more then dry time, but since the coats should be thinner, then the shrinkage should be the same. Now, you will definitely get slower drying times in the corners of the wall and in rooms that don't have active airflow. Adding a fan to just circulate the air makes a big difference.

@@AroundTheHome1 Thank you so much, I appreciate that you don't mind teaching!

Are you asking if you can buy a thinner premixed mud? Not that I know of and I wouldn't want any if they did. Like I mention in the video you want the mud thinner or thicker for different applications.

@@AroundTheHome1 yea, in this video, I loved the consistency of the mud after you added water and mixed it. I would like to buy the mud in that thin consistency. I’m surprised they don’t sell that consistency and we have to add water. Anyway, I think I want to buy the ultra light weight compound because I think it’ll be thinner than all purpose and plus 3. By the way, I’m trying to create knock down wall texture with this. Thanks very much for the help. I appreciate your videos .

You are right the ultra light weight is thinner and easier to work with then the all purpose, but it's nowhere close to where you will want it to use as knock down texture. I assume you have yourself a spray hopper that you hook to an air compressor if you are wanting to do a spay on - then knock down texture. I really should have a video on that by now, but I don't. Anyways, back to the consistency of the mud. When I thin it down in this video to the last stage it is good for final coat and working with inside corners, not texture. It needs to be watered down a bit more for that. You are looking for more of a thick paint consistency for that or it will never feed through the hopper. I hope that helps and good luck with your project.

@@AroundTheHome1 thanks so much for all the advice. I hope I don’t mess this up 🤪

No problem. I would suggest to test out on a scrap piece of drywall first. Now this is a very old video of mine, but it may help you out. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jJiFfJCq07XOenU.html I would normally use a plastic bladed knock down knife if the area was any larger. 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Nope