Sure dude--buy a "latching" style switch, not momentary. Then wire the 12v + wire from your power source to "Common" post on your switch. Then bridge the "Normally Open" post to the "+" post, and then from that wire goes to your winch (according to your manual). Finally, wire the 12v - terminal on your power source to the "-" post on your switch, and then from there go to your device's "-" post.

@@NotFromConcentrate Thank you and i vill try this and hope can get it to work! Best regards Tobias

Super happy to be able to help you!

You are totally welcome--thanks for being a customer!

Yup, I sell them! Just let me know what you want.

They all work the same, so you can just solder your old power switch wire to your new motherboard, or crimp on a new connector. Peace

@@NotFromConcentrate cool! Thanks 🤓

I have been importing MDPC sleeving for years now (1/8th) and I highly recommend it. Especially now that you can get it in the USA! Google Mod-One. If you want to go paracord which can look nice I don't have any suggestions.

A latching switch works exactly the same way. Resistor will change the brightness of the LED. Find out what voltage your system outputs to the LED terminal and either buy a matching voltage switch or one with a higher voltage rating. Peace!

Yeah, I sell them in my shop ready to go! nfc-systems.com/new-products/switch

Not From Concentrate Would this be something you pre-order along with the case later in november?

It's on the pre-order sheet for sure. If you want one early or for another project just email me.

For 35$ sure!

Or from 2-7$ you can one prewired but not pre braided www.banggood.com/12V-3A-16mm-Unlock-On-Off-Sport-Mode-LED-Push-Button-Switch-For-BMW-E60-5-Series-p-1059750.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

I think you'll need a latching button. This one is only connected when you hold it down

It would be exactly the same process exactly! So just follow this guide. Peace and thanks for watching!

The PC motherboard manual will tell you what is the PWR and the LED. Usually the PC supplies around 3v, so a 12v switch will be a bit dim. You can buy a 5v or a 3v switch if you want the light brighter.

Yup. You can always go under just not over in all circumstances.

masking the red and black cables .. Doh

Exactly the same way. You just plug the connectors to the different headers. This is usually why you see two separate buttons for reset/power. They do make some multi stage switches that can do both, but that is too complicated to go over in a youtube comment. Peace!

then make a video for it easy :P

Connect your Reset cables to the NO and C connectors, and the HDD LED cables to +/-

Andrew Byi the fumes are toxic and are capable of causing cancer.

It's not a standard color code so I can't help you. What matters are the pins on the switch.

Motherboard is 3.3v usually at header. The higher voltage led on the switch = less bright

Not From Concentrate nice thanks

Not From Concentrate looking in a scheme pinout there is a +5 v pin. Next to a blank space

Roland Rodriguez look up your motherboard manual and it should tell you which pins go to what, then it's just a matter of figuring out which cables go to which connectors. You'll be using the NO and C connectors for power, and the +/- for the LED bit

This is actually a common practice for industrial computing believe it or not! Chances are if you are watching this video you will want a connector though :)

I love learning, so any guides you can send me to would be great! I will admit that it is far easier to do this off camera--I could barely see what I was doing in order to give the camera the best view. >< Thanks for watching and commenting.

Not From Concentrate My main concern was your iron, but as it clearly got the job done there's no need for me to worry on that for the soldering you showed. I tend to do more soldering to pcb's and never had luck with that style of iron, or any cheap iron, so I invested in a Hakko FX-888D (just south of a $100 soldering station). My next concern was the size of solder you used, but once again, in that use case, it works just fine. You might consider tinning the wires (applying a small amount of solder to the otherwise bare wire) as well before putting them on the connectors. That could be completely unnecessary, so should you try it and not like the results, or feel it to be an additional step that isn't required, then like I said a few times before, what you've been doing has been working so... the good old "if it ain't broke" comes into play. As far as any soldering guides would go, Adafruit Industries has a good quick tutorial here on KZfaq, called "Collin's Lab: Soldering" and EEVblog has a few, much longer tutorials, in the 30 minutes a piece range, where he over criticizes things especially considering your current use applications.Most of these tutorials would apply to PCB and Surface Mount soldering, but they can always be helpful. Love the videos, the mods, and the tutorials, I'm always trying to learn more too whilst playing with a 3D printer in between. And lastly, yeah, doing things on camera is hard, and usually doesn't aid in trying to get something done, so the fact that you take the time to try to show us is something I will always appreciate. (Sorry for the short essay response)