Thanks Kevin, I'm glad I popped back into your feed!

Great to hear!

Thanks, will do!

Awesome! Thank you!

Great to hear Colby!

Great suggestions Jeff, thanks for watching!

I'm curious what you mean by bleed over issues? Could you elaborate?

@@ericwotton2046 Voltage is being split between the neutral and the ground wire without tripping the breaker.

@@StoicThrower Interesting, is it just one circuit causing the issue? Your panels are all networked properly with grounds and neutrals separated back to the main service panel (where they combine.) You might have a ground fault within that circuit either an appliance or improper wiring in the brach wiring. A ground rod really wouldnt effect this much unless multiple transformer are involved.

@@ericwotton2046 yep. One circuit. Checked it all. Replaced every receptacle. Wired correctly. Nothing was plugged in. Never did find a definitive reason for it. Ran a new 20 amp circuit with no drama.

i don't think that grounding rod should have been installed in the first place. The grounding bond should only be at the mains panel. By adding another ground rod, you can potentially create another path back to source through earth that would cause the issue you're talking about. The bleed is current on ground where it should not be.

Thats all I do in Virginia

Glad to help!

Thank you.

Yes, there's an attachment for a hammer drill that works well also. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! 😃

Glad it helped

Thanks!

Thanks!

What do you need help with?

You are welcome

Not the smartest but hopefully I help with the basics. Thanks for watching 😁

@@TimWilborne humble. Even better

Thank you very much!

Did you get the link to work? I couldn't.

12" if cable clamp in box 8" if no clamps

@@thomasmarable6818 Correct, he has boxes with listed clamp. So 12" is maximum.

Just been going through my 08 code book and can't find the 8 inch requirement, Got a code reference? Thanks.

Its in article 334 not sure about 2008 but my state is on 2017 code cycle

@@thomasmarable6818I found it. 314.19(C) 334 is NM cable and only references 12 inch.

You need to check your local electrical codes but here, they can only be bonded in one place, the main panel.

Definitely want to check with local codes on the ground rod. At least here you could have it one an inside wall and run the ground to the nearest outside wall. I have no idea on the concrete slab, never ran into that situation. I would consult a local electrician, you'll be dollars ahead.

Tim Wilborne Thanks Tim. I will do that.

When you're past your outside main you do not run a ground from the panel to the outside, if you do you're defeating your purpose of having a ground path back to the main panel where the power supply enters the residence, if you ask an electrician be sure and ask someone who knows the code and has experience with installing sub-panels.

Having two grounds creates a potential for a ground loop within same building. You can use your main panel ground.

Many thanks

Thank you :)

Happy to help!

No. In my locality, sub panels that are in separate buildings must have both a ground from the main panel and a ground rod. You need to check your local laws and codes.

How an electrician to check it out. I won't cost much and you'll know everything is safe.

No.

Not all equipment requires a neutral. In many cases, only 2 legs of 120VAC and a ground are required.

@Tim Wilborne appreciate your answer. Just a quick question. When wiring a sub panel, it should not be wired were the ground and neutral are bonded? What type of panel is that. Does it come not bonded?

@@newday8172 That could vary depending on where you are located but for the most part they are only bonded at the main panel, they are separate at sub panels.

Yes you run it to the groundbar plus a ground conductor from your main panel

RV wiring has it's own section of NEC code, check it out.

Thank you I’ll check it out

220, 230, 240,... They are all the same depending on the area you live in. Same with 110, 115, 120. Yes in the main panel the ground and neutral are bonded together. Nowhere else.

There is a long history on what we used in the past as far as volts go. We actually used 100 volts back in the day and the progressed to 110, 115, 120.

You are very welcome

Hi Kevin. As far as one vs two ground rods, NEC 250.56 requires a second ground rod if the ground has a resistance of 25 ohms or more. I don't want to get into the argument of whether all sub panels should have grounds or not.

Tim Wilborne I totally agree with you on higher than 25 ohms requires second rod. In my code classes, it was suggested that it is cheaper to just drive two and forget it. Testing time would be higher cost than installing the second rod. What I meant by not all sub panels need ground rods, keeping this conversation in dwelling units, if you have a 200 amp main service panel in a dwelling, it is required to have all available grounding electrodes connected to it. Now put a 100 ampere sub panel in the middle of the dwelling next to the kitchen. No ground electrodes are required. Put another 60amp sub panel in a detached garage, a connection to grounding electrode is required. Note: this requirement of ground electrodes in separate buildings flip flopped back and forth several times between 1981 and 2005 NEC. Not looking for any arguments. Hope this clarifies my comment. Respectfully, Kevin

@@KevinCoop1 I beleive the main purpose of the ground rods in a simple dwelling is for lighting protection. Thats why a sub-panel in an annex building needs a ground rod. It gives a bath for nuisance current to bleed off the system. It also helps the whole electrical system have a reference to work with, one common ground. This becomes important in large buildings with multiple tranformers and sensitive equipment.

@@ericwotton2046 Sorry I did not get back to you earlier! You are correct!

@@ericwotton2046 if you are running 50 feet out to a garage underground and in plastic conduit. would a secondary rod be needed to ground the sub panel from lightning generated electricity coming through the main panel and out to the garage?

Yes. I don't know if you ever stop trying to improve on that!

@@TimWilborne And don't ask me how I know... I remember being new at a place and how much time it took to mess around with the wiring and to make it look good, etc. The tasks per se weren't difficult even though I'd never set my foot there before let alone worked with those things in my life. Once you knew exactly what to do and how to do it right it was okay. The trickiest might've been reading the charts correctly, like connecting certain components on to the boards. Anyway, to cut a long story short, the job lasted for 2 months when I had to quit. I used too much time in someone's opinion. In MY opinion, kicking someone out after 2 months is ludicrous.

Yes there are David.

Nothing. 220, 230, 240, and occasionally the label 200 VAC single phase are all the same. Even across the US there are variations on which term is used

@@TimWilborne 110V used to be the standard, so power was called 110/220. Since the standard is 120, it's 120/240. 240=2*120.

Basically. The neutral and grounds must be isolated and a sub panel is powered out of a main panel.

@@TimWilborne I also have another question if you have time. If you were to open up a panel on a new home with three pin wiring and you were to open up a panel on an older home with only two pin wiring how would you tell the difference right off the bat just by looking? Not for sure if you understand this question or not.

Lee Sales kk

Early in my career I pulled some 500 MCM wires one time, I realized really quickly that I better stick with controls.

@@TimWilborne Oh yeah, that's a workout. Not to mention running the conduit for those cables, including busting a hole for two 4" conduits *horizontally* through a concrete footer. Ever run a jackhammer horizontally? No fun...

I never have found the programming port on a jack hammer to make it work.

@@TimWilborne LOL! The programming port was where my journeyman was going to put his boot if I whined about running the jackhammer. :) That really was the installation from heck. We had a heavy rain the day before it was to be inspected (so it was still open for inspection), and the ditch where we had our two 4" PVC runs got completely backfilled with sand. The conduits, being empty, naturally rose to the top of the ditch and were sticking out every fifty feet or so. So we had to hand dig the ditch again, this time being careful not to break our conduits. I was happy to see that run get finished. Pulling the wire wasn't too bad, we used a capstan puller, and each of us young bucks got to pull the wire off of one spool each. I've been involved in worse pulls... :) Another really bad ditch was one that fed a pad mount transformer and went down the center of an alley to the vault. It had eight "known" crossings. A combination of water, telephone, cable TV, power, as well as a sewage line below all of it. It also had one "unknown" crossing which the city neglected to locate for us, and we naturally found it, and removed it, for them. It was an abandoned water line that the city had simply capped off rather than removing. We ripped the unmarked line right out of its corporation (what the city water crew called the connection between the main and the smaller water line). Ever see how much water can come out of a 3/4" hole at 800 PSI? It's prodigious... The city tried to blame us, claiming that we were responsible for items that they had missed. Right. Our company wasn't having any of that nonsense, and the city got to fix and pay for the damage. It wouldn't have been as bad but the corporation was mounted at about twenty degrees from horizontal and the water pressure undercut a large portion of the parking lot to an attorney's office which collapsed into the ditch. Of course the ditch filled up in no time at all, and that little hole was now providing the center of Colorado Springs with a decent sized stream for the kids to play in. So there's always an upside. And this was also one of those runs that had to be encased in concrete, so we had that to deal with as well once the carnage got cleaned up. We also had to run a ditch for our power behind a strip mall that we were wiring. We had contracted a guy to cut the trench with his Ditch Witch. The only located line was a telephone line marked for us by Ma Bell. As the dutiful apprentice, I offered to hand dig that section out for him. He said "Don't bother, I can feel the cable with my stinger". Nonetheless I went to the truck to get a shovel, but by the time that I had gotten back the stinger on the Ditch Witch was wrapped up in an array of multicolor wires from the cable. Kinda reminded me of a Christmas tree... He had hit a one thousand pair cable that carried the long distance calls from Colorado Springs to Denver. As well as being used for communications to and from Norad. So yeah, not a good cable to have an accident with... Ma Bell (Mountain Bell) employees started popping up like popcorn all over the place. They were easy to spot, white shirts, black slacks, and all with unpleasant looks on their faces. The downtime was $1,000 a minute. The bonding company refused to cover the damage, citing "stupidity". That was the end of his company, and much of his personal possessions. My boss did a back door deal with him to buy his Ditch Witch so that he could have a bit of cash to live off of until he could sell his house to cover (a portion of) the damages. Ma Bell wasn't taking any prisoners on this one. He offered to help cut a new ditch, which had to go thirty or forty feet in both directions from the damaged spot (you have to remove a large section because the wire insulation gets ruined closer to the cut). The Ma Bell splicers said "Thanks, but you've done enough". The first thing that the splicers did when they had their new ditch dug, was to dig out "thrones" for themselves in the wall of the ditch to provide a place for them to sit while they made their splice. Pretty obvious to me that they were going to be there for awhile. It took them thirty hours to splice in a new section.

@@MrWaalkman Yes I knew I guy that hit one of those 1000 pair cables. Not fun.

ALL screw terminals are supposed to be torqued.

Not all 240V arc welders are the same and not all 240V air compressors are the same. First you would need to know the maximum amperage draw from them, then you would need to go to a voltage drop calculator such as: www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop I think the NEC allows a maximum voltage drop of 5%, but I would shoot for no more than a 2% voltage drop, even though Southwire recommends a 3% voltage drop.

Maybe on large chillers used for the whole building, elevators, etc but not inside the dwelling.

Yes it is legal but reach out to a local Electrician so you can get the details right

Haha, I know to stay in my lane. That panel that I showed was artwork and that takes many years of practice.

The double pole is 220V

Nice video tim ! but shouldn't the 3 wire be black and red to double breaker and white to neutral

@@thomassmearcheck2819 No one said this was 3 wire...that is typically for when your application requires a neutral.

Hi Wes. See link below. www.theautomationstore.com/wiring-determining-wire-size-and-voltage-drop-for-amps-240-120-vac/

@@TimWilborne 2AWG it is! Thank you

@@TimWilborne thanks Tim, do you also have a chart that shows the size for neutral and ground for the sub panel?

You then have to worry about nails from the outside siding into the "back" side of the stud. Always drill an appropriately sized hole in the middle of the stud. If you're using the correct size drywall screws, you don't need to worry about nail plates.

Thank you Steven!

Your main panel would have a main breaker. Then in your main panel you would install another breaker which would send power to your sub panel. If you put in a 200 amp panel you would have two 100 amp breakers. On one leg of that panel you could install let's say a 50 amp breaker and then run power from that into a subpanel.

Need an upgrade to 200 amp

Ground should always be connected to ground. Ground is a non current carrying conductor. Neutral is a current carrying conductor. Never mix them up.

@@TimWilborne thanks!

Probably but your should get an electrical to have a look to determine if you can for sure

Not required but can be there. Remember this varies by locality so check codes applicable to your area.

@@TimWilborne it does vary. A requirement for some, a convenience for all. You can back feed a breaker equal to or larger than than the feeder breaker in the main if the sub doesn’t have a main.

Where does it say that in NEC code? It is suppose to be a few feet from the structure, I assume so it is truly grounded and not up against the footers of the building and if you have two ground rods then they must be 6' apart, but I've never heard that they have to be 6' from the panel.

We never put that shirt out publicly but we get enough request that we should! Here are the shirts we have. timwilborne.creator-spring.com/

Gound Fault Circuit Interrupter... Depending on where you are located they may be referred to as a Residual Current Device.

I can't recall, did I call it something different in the video?

100

100

Yes I usually do a half a days work while drinking my coffee :)

Not all 220VAC requires a neutral. For example this is a common dryer plug that you would use a 2 w/ ground...black, white, ground. amzn.to/3SJ7GpD

Just the basics, not the art of doing it like an everyday electrician :)

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Seems like I did, what parts was unclear?

You mean spade bits? Nah, I can't agree with you on that one. An auger bit takes less effort. Let the rolls do the work. And I have shorter ones for tight spaces but this one is much easier on the body.

@@TimWilborne alright fair enough i concede

And the ground to the ground bar?

No. You should consult an electrician before proceeding. It will be a small price to make sure you don't burn anything up.