Bottom of power supply. 5th little pin from the end.

Try connecting a load(e.g. some power resistors / a few amps perhaps) on the output of the PSU... *Update: apparently the OVP hack resistor may need to be a higher value depending on the desired triggering voltage threshold (e.g. 11k~12k and higher for kicking in at roughly 15V, +/- 0.5V depending on triggering load currents) .

@@ahmedbalobaid753(In reply to the now deleted question by ahmedbalobaid753 of whether variable resistors can be used... keeping in mind they can start from "zero" resistance, ... ) In short... YES! But you would not want to set it to start at "zero"(or close to it) unless it is used with other resistors so that the actual active resistance would be within safe ranges that would result in output voltages under 16V(or if the output caps are exchanged with higher values, then under that higher rating). If the pot were set to "zero"(or close to it) without any other resistors in series, the PSU will likely not turn ON(i.e. the fan won't run and the output will not be normal voltage), as the OVP would be triggered immediately (assuming the OVP hasn't been disabled with a similar very low resistor in parallel). In my current testing setup, instead of soldering resistors onto the PCB right away, I soldered on relatively long 2 wires(25AWG) one for the voltage hack and one for the OVP hack onto the PCB, and the other ends are connected to a small breadboard for testing with various resistors. Of course after testing, I won't be using the breadboard, but the wires will still be used so I can have a pot & trimmer (for voltage & OVP respectively), on the outside of the PSU. For the voltage hack, I started with 4 x 20k resistors(in series as needed) and 1 x 20k multi-turn pot(in series or on its own). For the OVP hack I started with 2 x 20k in parallel(for 10k) and one 5k multi-turn pot/trimmer in series or on its own depending on resistance setting. The grounding has been onto the main ground tab next to the 12V output tab, using alligator clips. I now have a 100k pot so I can do without the 4 x 20k resistors + 20k pot. This 100k pot will be used with a big multi-turn knob(which looks like a safe dial) on the power supply's enclosure panel (the PSU will be placed in a plastic safety brief case). Also, on a side note, when wires are initially soldered(instead of resistors), before any resistors are connected and grounded, the dangling wires seem to throw off the control circuit(perhaps due to wire inductance/capacitance or due to their acting like antennas for noise), and the PSU will not turn ON. I freaked out thinking I fried the cap or resistor to which the wires were soldered onto, but once the resistors were connected and grounded, the PSU fired up(i.e. turned ON, not catch on fire, h e he). In the case of OVP, if the resistance is too low, then OVP may not ever be triggered when needed, and would essentially make it seem like the OVP has been completely disabled. Some don't give a hoot as long as they can boost the voltage up, but having the OVP kick in before the output caps or perhaps some sensitive diodes & ICs in circuit blowup would be a smart move. Hence, my intent to keep testing for a thorough/clear picture of how the OVP behaves at various voltages and loads.

Bottom of supply, 5th little pin from the end is current share

@@hopperbuiltamps2135 very nice. Thanks for the helpful info and video

So looking at the bottom with the pins closest to you, counting backwards from the edge it’s the fifth pin right next to the longer pin, correct?

yes

It's 4.3k Colorcode Yellow, Orange, Black, Brown, Brown

Thanks

Hello, can you help, what is the second resistor? You can't see the colors clearly in the video

12k ?