So blessed to have this is just Great, 38 min has passed and I felt like it was 3 min, I'm quite sure another 10 min wouldn't be in anyway an issue honestly

Graham, I tend to agree with most of the other viewers here. These videos are incredibly therapeutic and educational. You are human and will make mistakes. If people cannot let that go, that's just sad. Back in the real world, those of use who have been around a spell understand that things like this happen and you can be forgiven because you fixed it anyhow. I'm just glad that you post these videos and that you show everyone here on KZfaq how a business-owning computer technician fixes things in the real world, having to take into account real world prices, shrinking profit margins, and customers and KZfaq commenters that may miss the greater value offered by your shop. Thank you for your great videos!

@@sugargliderdude Yes, it was shown in the video.

@@sugargliderdude yes. it s in the video at 34:43

Excuse me, I have a question about the ENE controller, Does it came ready to use? or you have to program it to run properly on board?

I thought I was the only one with the same experience.

Same

Cheers, I try to mention the things that I struggled with when I was watching other people's videos to learn, so while these videos aren't unique, they might at least have the missing titbits that someone's trying to understand.

I've seen some folks do that, but it's less helpful when you need to check paths with continuity, or check directly across a component.

Yeah, old laptops are great except the iGPU sucks, they don't have modern video decoding, meaning it has to do software decoding and spikes upwards of 50% or more CPU usage just to do basic youtube streaming, otherwise they make awesome NAS/homelab servers.

I’d rather have the optical drive.

@@vgamesx1 the iGPU in this should have video deciding. Maybe not for 4K or anything, but 1080p should do fine.

'A Fluke' is never the correct advice. Fluke has plenty of models that are less suited for electronics repair even than the meter he has now. And quite a few come standard with really really bad probes, but you still pay the premium price... So without mentioning a specific model, specific probes ets, it's just not good advice. Ever. And if you're not a big corporation that cares for multipackage calibration programs, legacy support and availability, there are better meters out there for 1/3rd of the cost.

Ah, I've seen Rel on other meters, but I don't think the AN8008 has it... the top-right button is mode select (resistance, cont, diode, etc) or Hold. Good tip that other people might be able to use though!

I need to dig out the manual for my AN8008 because I can't find the REL function. I can't believe it doesn't have one though, seems like something all meters have!

@@Adamant_IT Not necessarily. If they have, they usually have a button just for that or at least as 2nd function of some button - in that case it should be written somewhere on the buttons. It might also be just a "Delta"-Symbol, so the triangle. However, I had another thought about that topic and at least in your case here, there won't really be a way to use this kind of "triangulation". Here's why: As you noticed, depending on the pressure you put on the probes, the reading changes by more than 100 mOhms. This won't really change, even with really good probes. On the other hand, the big power-traces or power-planes on a (laptop) motherboard will have single mOhms or a couple of 10s of mOhms at maximum from one side of the board to the other. So you will always end up with a measurement error, that is way higher than the slight changes in the actual resistance reading. You would need a proper low-resistance measurement setup, so 4-wire measurement and about an amp of current. That would not be something, that could be done easily and even then, the resistance of your "short" might change as the faulty component heats up, so you still end up with non-conclusive results. I tried a couple of times to narrow down the position of a short like that. It works out sometimes, when there is other components involved like ferrites, but with just traces, I never got anywhere. It confuses me more than it helps, because every time you see a different reading, you try to make sense of what that means, which most of the times is a red herring. All in all, I think you don't need to spend money on a better DMM or better probes. You might need thinner probes like Louis uses, if you really want to go to town on SMD stuff.

@@NebukadV Some bench DMMs use a selector knob labeled "LP accompanied by the capital Greek letter omega, perhaps standing for Low Power Ohms" for resistance measurements less than 1 ohm. It is easy to deduce that LPomega DMM Bank = REL for portable DMMs. Another way of saying it, I do not occupy those functions because your answer is completely correct in the practical activity. As an example I will assume the resistance of the test leads is 00.2 ohms and (16:12) the meter reading at that point on the Mosfet indicates 1.0 Ohms, so 1.0 - 0.2 the actual resistance that exists is 0.8 Ohm. On the other hand, according to you, Graham doesn't need to spend money on another DMM or test leads either. There are MilliOhm Meters like the Vici VC480C+ model. Finally, thank you very much for sharing your answers with us and I mean it with absolute sincerity. All the best.

I have a Flir One, but I don't think I'd recommend it. It's finnicky and lacks a lot of features. However, I've not tested other cams to see if those are any better.

Yes it's still my main! It's not super smooth for ripple and stuff, but that doesn't really matter for basic workbench use like this - would only matter for laboratory work.

I use a Logitech BRIO. Most Logitech cams can do ridiculously close shots if you use Logitech Settings or Logitune to manual-focus them. The zoom isn't great though, so keep in mind the camera will need to be very close to the board.

True. The question is if expensive leads can get it much lower than my cheap ones, or at least give more reliable contact at the probe points.

@@Adamant_IT I think very low ohm leads would be too thick and unwieldy (or short), but there are meters with a "relative" button. It can be used to zero out lead resistance by measuring the leads shorted together first.

Based on another comment I saw, this seems to be the key. Sadly it appears the AN8008 I use doesn't have a REL function, or at least I can't find it with the obvious buttons. Going to look into it though 👌

I use (interchangeably) a Miniware TS100 or a Pine64 Pinecil, they're not cordless, but have very broad power inputs, so they can run on anything from a 19v laptop charger to a 4-cell Lipo batt. Tips are cheap and widely available.

@@Adamant_IT Thank you - On it

I very rarely use diode mode. It's much faster than resistance mode, but you need to know the readings. I think it's more effective when you work on a narrower number of devices, like only apple or something, where there's less variation.

No need for a bridge. Inject the current, set meter to mV, and measure voltage at various points on the board, lowest voltage is the short location.

Most resistors on a mobo are very small black SMD parts with no markings. Current Sense resistors (aka Shunt Resistors) are fairly large, and often 4-pin (two large and two small). They often have a resistance marking on them, which will be a very low value, like R050 (0.05Ohm). All of those signs combined with the position on the board (bridging two large power rails together) should help identify them!

@@Adamant_IT thanks for your time.