Entire oil burning playlist: kzfaq.info/sun/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

DO NOT!!!! Replace the engine mechanically. This flushes away the entire experiment and thus people move along to another KZfaq channel.. this is the bread and butter of this show. We all know it can be fixed that way. That’s not exciting. My suggestion is “BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit” a 4 piece kit. There is five or more videos online that claim this is fixed their issues successfully. Problem is it’s $300… Maybe do a go fund me and everybody pitches in $1.00. Or reach out to BG. Can you imagine this product fixing your engine after 26 other snake oil products have failed!?!? My 2 cents.

Thank you for this series, Dave, it's been very informative. I think the final test before a teardown has to be BG Dynamic, save the most expensive for last

I'm from EU and I'd watch these trips for hours. Your food is ridiculous. Fantastic video! Your best result was with that Yamalube. I've never seen such cleaning of pistons after one use ever. I would drive that for 2k... than a teardown. Just record your trips, they're great! Greetings from Croatia.

When you mail them a check make sure to wipe it on the floor of a public bathroom. Makes you feel better lol.

You should've done a complete change, after the Engine Cleaner, with the HPL 5W-30. By keeping the old oil and just topping off, the ester concentration is diluted too much. It's likely there's still a lot of cleaning that needs to happen around the rings. For some, it wasn't until the 2nd full oil change before the consumption started to decrease. It cleans slowly like that so you don't overwhelm the oil filter with too much cleaning too quickly. I would do a complete change with HPL 5W-30 and continue to monitor. There's been several who, by the 3rd oil change on HPL, have gone from a quart every 1,000-1,500 miles to a quart every 5,000-7,000 miles. If you cut open the filter, you're likely to find a good bit of carbonous deposits in the filter. The oil filter should be changed every 1,000-1,500 miles when using the Engine Cleaner and initial oil changes.

It's been a great journey!!! In my opinion, don't tear the engine down. Continue the journey. You introduced Yamalube in Episode 20. Out of many additives I've used in the past, Yamalube actually solved my issue (no more misfires at cold, etc etc). Imagine if had you torn that engine down before episode 20. We probably would've never heard of Yamalube. I think there is an additive out there or chemical process that will solve the burning oil issue but you would have to continue the course. I would suggest trying these two oils: 1. Liqui Moli Molygen which has the Tungsten additive within the oil. Tungsten is more less a friction modifier but does bond to the metal. 2. Motul 300V Competition. Yes, this is a race oil. But, it is a ester-based group 5 oil. It might be overkill for the toyota but could solve the oil burning issue. I think we've become a small community around your oil consumption experiments as many of us are testing additives with our own vehicles. In closing, don't tear that motor apart. I would continue the path. If not, we understand and thank you for taking on this task.

Thank you Dave, this series has been very helpful for me as well. We have a 2017 Audi Q7 that burned a quart every 400 miles and had bad enough misfiring to cause codes and limp mode. I replaced the PCV, tried Lucas oil stabilizer, two recommended oils (Castrol Edge, Motul Xcess), and BG EPR, all with no effect. Then I did a Berryman's B12 piston soak. A few differences to your method, but the result was a huge improvement. It has now gone roughly 2000 miles per quart for 6000+ miles, and no misfiring at all. I plan to do it again before my next oil change and see if it improves further. If that hadn't helped, I was going to try the BG Dynamic engine cleaner as a last resort before throwing in the towel and doing a rebuild. But I thought you were also going to try a BG Dynamic engine clean too and was hoping to see your result. Did you decide against that?

Hi Dave, Just want to say thank you again for making these videos, I have gone through the whole playlist in 5 days, learned a lot, since I too have a car with an oil burning issue and have managed to keep the oil consumption to 1 litre per every 5000km by using Liqui Moly engine flush over the past 40,000km (over 7 years). My oil change interval is every 5000km and I refill when the oil level falls to halfway between the 2 dots. These videos have given me also hope in keeping the car and trying to find a fix without having to rebuild. Many people would just say get rid of the car, but I find myself like many others not in a financial situation to do so! Mine is also a gift to my dad who could not afford a good car while he was upbringing me and my brother. My dad always had cars with oil burning issues. I have an idea, I have not tried it since I don't have the tools, but since the problem lies between the side walls of the pistons and the cylinders with these sticky rings, what if you half-filled the cylinder with an engine oil flush solution while the piston is at bottom dead centre (with both intake and exhaust valves closed) as well as pressuring the cylinder with at least 2 bars of air. The rationale behind this, is that the pure solution should be able to do a better job by being forced through the rings to dissolve the deposits. Repeat this procedure a few times for each cylinder and see if it brings any positive results. Of course, drain the crankcase after doing so or remove the oil drain plug while performing the procedure. This is what I wanted to share with the community.

Dave, I've followed this series since the beginning and it's been so helpful and enjoyable. If I may offer an opinion, I wouldn't put a lot of money into a rebuild. A car that old with that many miles could get hit by a deer and the insurance company would total it out. Happened to me on my 07 Camry. I have an 09 Matrix now which I love. It has the consumption problem too. I've found that running MMO has really helped keep it in check, but I only drive 5000 miles per year or so. I was quoted 8500$ for a rebuild so I ll keep doing what I m doing unless you come up with some magic. Thanks for all of your efforts.

my dad was burning a lot of oil in his 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara, i was always using like high mileage full synthetic oil and kept burning a lot, and someone told me don't use full synthetic, so i tried Castrol Gtx high mileage, and a quart of Lucasoil high mileage oil stabilizer and its been roughly 1,247 miles since the oil change and so far knock on wood, no oil burning yet! still at the full mark!

Either BG Dynamic or start putting MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) back in on a regular basis. It had helped my Volvo that was using a quart every 400mi and now I'm over 1200 to 1500 mi's. per quart. It does take a little longer to take effect but I haven't needed to add oil like I did when I first purchased the car.

Hey Dave, I wanted to thank you for your videos. I have an 2008 Camry 2AZFE engine that was burning 2 quarts every 5,000 miles of oil. I used Berryman's B12 in the spark plug holes with the engine hot and now after 1200 miles, I have no loss in oil. I could not have done this without your help! Thank you Sir!

If you chose to do Amsoil , make sure its the Signature Series. They have several different types of oil. Loved the video. What I personally did when I had oil burning issues was amsoil engine flush then immediately seafoam the engine flush then Amsoil Signature series. But that's just what worked in my situation

There you are again, old buddy!!! You keep getting my respect & admiration on your perseverance!!! PLUS, you got great taste for music!!! "DO PREMIUM QUALITY WORK!"

Berryman's B-12 all the way! I would do another cleaning service with that chemical and really go heavy with it. Do a full and proper oil change and test your mileage to oil burnt ratio again. If it's still not good enough after that, I would rebuild it or replace it. Ideally if you have the space, buy another motor to drop in, take the current one out and have it rebuilt. They probably have a new design for the oil control rings on the pistons, I know VW rings are different than the original with rebuild kits.

I was having the same issue. I only got 200 miles on a QT . Have gone 200 miles since with no oil loss. 1 thing I did different was that I jacked up the back of the car so the pistons were level! ( liquids always go to the lowest spot) you might not be getting enough cleaner on the high side of the oil rings. ( something to consider) thank you for the videos!!!

I did the B12 piston soak in my brother in law’s 2002 Corolla earlier this summer. It dramatically decreased the oil consumption much like your results. Might I suggest you apply some RainX waterless wash and wax ($9 at Walmart) on all the hard exterior surfaces and the windows! Your wipers will last much longer and you will have a dramatic visibility advantage over other drivers! Thank you for the videos!

Before tearing it down, I think that the codes that are currently in the DTC memory should be corrected and tested after that. One thing that I plan on doing with my car, is running Lacquer Thinner through the gas to clean up my catalytic converter. I've seen quite a few people try it, and it seems to work. I need to get my other lower control arm replaced, and an alignment before I make the needed journey to do it. Yours is burning so much oil, I'm almost positive the CC is clogged, robbing you of the normal power you should have. That can actually cause too much back pressure, and might be part of the problem. Parrots are a hoot. About 10 years ago, my roommate and I took care of his girlfriend's African Grey for about a year and a half. He was such a character, and loved to mimic the strangest noises. Most notably, my roommate's nextel walky talky beep he had for work. It drove him crazy! He loved to listen to loud music, as he'd dance and sing with the ones he liked. He liked metal and rap. I taught him how to spin and he loved sitting on my shoulder and walking around with me. I was apparently the one that he liked, as they tend to only like one person. They live up to I think 80 years or something.

consider: drain and fill w ATF. idle for awhile - then drain. This can free up sticking rings. Then use normal oil or perhaps thicker, such as Lucas. Its important to run a test for longer terms. Many of these 'treatments' require several hundred miles mininum to show appreciable effect.

There are definitely a few videos already on 1zzfe rebuilds for oil burning. A rebuild will work, but it would not be that unique of a contribution for the diyers. It may be worth backtracking to the efforts that produce the most measurable results like soaking with Berryman's. My suggestion would be to try extreme soaking (4-5 days) under periodic compression with any one or combination of the following solvents: Berryman Chemtool B12 (Acetone/Toluene) AC Delco 10-3015 Brakleen (Naphtha) and CRC GDI Cleaner (PEA) Kano Kreen (MEK) BG EPR PVC Primer (purple stuff) If you're not ready to condemn esters then the following products are worth a try: Lubegard Engine Flush (300 miles w/ fresh oil) Auto-RX (1500 miles) Stihl HP 2-mix Oil (10% or higher) CostEffective Flushing Oil Concentrate The only other class of product I've seen that's different is a chelating agent in Stihl's Decarbonizer (trisodium EDTA.) I'm out of ideas...

Shell Rotella T6...Work great in my 2015 Volvo V60 T5 !!! Great series, very informative !!! Well Done !!!

I want to see you soak the pistons again with a chemical like toluene or xylene. maybe mix it with some ATF or MMO and change the oil before you do an italian tune up

This is why every car should have forward and rear cameras recording full time.

Thanks for the continued videos and sorry to see your trouble with Alabama police. I had a similar incident in VA a few years ago where I was also targeted because of having out of state tags. Lots of good cops out there, but unfortunately there are A-holes.

Hello Dave, I was recently watching a few of your oil consumption experiments. Not a mechanic by any means but after looking at your video where you show the inside of your combustion chambers i do have a feeling it could be something that needs to be approached from both sides. This is a comment i saw under a video of someone using a liqui molly product and i have a feeling it might apply here : "Here is the recipe to solve 2.0tfsi oil burning. Get the engine hot. Remove spark plugs, mix 2oz PB Blaster, 1oz B-12 Chemtool, and 1/2oz MMO. Pour this mix in this quantity in to each cylinder. As you pour, you'll hear the mix boiling in the cylinder. Always exercise good safety protocol. Let it sit with a paper towel in the spark plug hole until the piston is visually dry (24hrs). Take a compressed air blower with a long snout and put it in the spark plug hole and blow. You will not believe the amount of dried carbon that will blow out. You'll typically find the culprit cylinder at this time based on the amount of carbon blowing out. Crank the engine over with the plugs out to remove excess liquid. Install the plugs and drive the vehicle around the block. Repeat all of these steps again. This cleans the piston crown and rings from the top side. When starting the engine after the second soak, dump in a can of BG EPR or LiquiMoly engine flush and let it idle for 30 minutes. this cleans the rings from the bottom side. Change the oil and filter and call it a day! This cured an engine burning 1qt every 200 miles @160k miles. It now burns nothing between 5k mi oil changes. " also on a side note if you could try adding Marvel mystery oil into the gasoline, there might be some improvement there, but thats just a guess.

Ouch, sorry for all the rough stuff that happened. Thanks for keeping the experiment going.

We're all praying for you👏👍🤞😉

Wowwww, that cop though! Tis why you install a straight up DVR/NVR. They make them with with as many camera inputs as ya wanna pay for on the upper end. Picked mine up for less than the last falsified speeding ticket I got a few years back. Not that they couldn't just say "show your recording with the gps receiver calculated speed overlay to the judge" while handing out the ticket anyway...

Your piston rings might be unstuck and unclogged from all of the treatments you have given them. But since they were stuck/clogged at one time that stopped oil from flowing through them that keeps them cool. If they overheated this could have caused additional wear and could have caused them to loose their "springiness", meaning they will not spring outward from the piston against the piston wall as strong as they should letting oil get buy.

Have you tried Engine Restore? It claims to deposit copper, silver, and lead in the upper cylinder area and stop oil burning as long as you keep using it. A lot of people claim it's the only liquid chemical treatment that actually works.

Really enjoy these videos and your experimental design. I am happy to hear you’re still entertaining tear down though as I feel sure that’s the only way you’ll fix the consumption. If there was something easy in a bottle that fixed it, Toyota’s engineers would have had a TSB out for it years ago. Recall that the faulty ring issue impacted lots of their engine, even the might Lexus GS350, so Toyota definitely had the skin in the game to find the cheapest solution. Since that ended up being piston and ring replacement, I think you’re confirming their decision.

Great videos. I have seen so many of them. Like the attention to details and the music you choose for each one.

Something to consider seriously is the fact the piston rings are worn at this mileage. So, in stop and go city driving, you'll have gasoline dilution of the oil and the level will seem to stay constant, but as soon as you do a long run down the highway, you'll see an apparent dramatic "consumption" and low oil level as the gasoline is boiled out.

I’ve had luck with piston soaks using B-12 Chemtool and BMW Fuel System Cleaner(same stuff as ACDelco Upper Engine and Fuel Injector cleaner) to get oil consumption down on a 2nd gen Prius, from 1qt/2K mi to nearly 1qt/4K mi. I also experimented with HPL EC, and Vavoline Premium Blue Restore. The best oil for consumption on this car was Shell Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle 5W-30. I’m running HPL 5W-30, I’m at 1qt/3.8K at the moment for consumption. It’s as good as I can get it.

Ha ya, the great state of Alabama law enforcement , don't feel bad, I got pulled over 6 times between just south of Birmingham and Dothan, I was on my way to Tallahassee from Canada, going to visit one of my brothers. They sure loved my out of country plate ! I paid for just one, I was 5 over the speed limit. I run a forward and rear camera, it paid for itself during that trip !! My brother was laughing when I told him ! Thanks for the vids, be well!

Dexron III ATF fluid in a mixture of 50/50 Acetone is what Ive had success multiple times with seized engines. My process. cold engine spark plugs out pour mixture 100ml in each cylinder. Check fluid level above piston and if its receded reapply, if not receded add 50ml of acetone. Do this everyday for 5 days before attempting to turn the crankshaft by hand. Obviously non running engine. So i have 2AZ-FE 2003 which im willing to try to reduce oil consumption, since it isn't seized. What i propose is the same process but this time move the pistons up and down the bores by rocking the crankshaft slightly each day after an application and leaving all pistons at the same height as per initial application of mixture and follow up applications Once the 5 days have passed check if the oil level has risen if so drain out until level correct. Clean out any excess mixture from cylinder bores before re-installing spark plugs. Run engine at idle until operating temperature, stop engine. Drain oil and filter overnight. Setup for initial oil consumption test. New oil and oil filter. New air filter and spark plugs. Use high detergent diesel engine oil. make sure oil level correct by running engine at idle until operating temperature, stop engine. Vehicle needs to be on a level surface and oil level checked 10 seconds after engine shut off to have the consistent amount of drain of oil back to the sump. Now that there is new oil in the engine accumulate 1000km and recheck consumption as per warmed up and on a level surface and checked 10 seconds after engine shutoff. Overall the engine oil needs to turn to its dark colour. NOTE (the contaminants are suspended in the oil until the oil breaks down due to lack of oil changes and the contaminants return to the engine) the change in oil colour is indicating its cleaning the inside of the engine to some degree. The oil needs to stay in the engine to utilise the oil filter, hopefully i can manage 5000kms before i change the oil, record findings and repeat process. So many other factors to consider. Consumption of oil through PCV system, Driving style, temperature of the time when driving, tyre pressures and quality of tyres, wheel alignment, dragging bakes, fuel filter replacement, fuel quality and consistent octane. Timing chains definatelty start to stretch over time and oil ports behind the oil control rings are a hard thing to unblock due to carbon. Then oil flow stops in the area, it was the flow keeping it clear by cleaning with fresh engine oil, oil flushes. Valve stem seals, valve guide to valve stem oil clearance. There is also a good possibility that the ring gap has changed to become larger even if a compression test yields a good result that doesn't totally determine oil consumption but its part of the bigger picture. Thankyou so much for this series.

When getting ready to rebuild running older engines in operational cars i usually drain about 3 quarts of oil and top off the crankcase with ATF. Then drive the vehicle for about 1000 miles before pulling the engine and braking it down. I learned this from an old race engine builder and i have always been amazed at well it works for cleaning the internals.

I dont know if you tried yet. I did, with success, a flush with Atomex totalflush, where you drive with it in the engine for 150 km. Its supposed to free stuck piston rings aswell. Then drain it and fill new oil and added Rislone Compression repair. Helped in my case atleast.

Thank you for sticking around and sharing with us! Nice greetings from Germany.

When fixing the tire, inflate it before pushing the plug in. Its way easier!

I came here for the oil consumption experiment, but you got me with the Alabama stories 😮😮 cannot beleive it

Back in the 90's I had observed similar police corruption in Louisiana. I had just crossed the border from Texas -- and a 1/2 mile into Louisiana, there were 3 State Troopers parked on the shoulder, in the shade, with their radars on. I was very careful to to the exact speed limit before crossing the border -- but I still got followed by a team that alternated positions for about 3 miles. I was lucky to not get pulled over anyway -- as I was told that this is a common practice there: they look for out of state plates & pick on those drivers. It didn't occur to me then -- but now I can see that they are engaging in an unconstitutional restriction to free travel -- as they rake in the bucks. Win-win, for them.

I propose doing an oil change with 5w30 oil for diesel engines, oil for diesel engines contains more detergent than regular engine oil to clean carbon.

I've had good luck with MaxLife reducing consumption. Now's a good time to start trying different weight oils.

My fav part was the Calico and ex feral ( ear tipped) black cat! I drive an EV but still enjoy this saga. MUCH respect for women who arent reliant on men to fix stuff!. And....Im a guy......

My mechanic says diesel fuel in the cylinders, let it soak for a few days, it will run past the rings and along with contaminating the engine oil it will soften and bust up the carbon that's preventing the oil control rings from working as designed, change the oil and filter and you should see considerable improvement

Well after fifty+ year of working on internal combustion engines I've never found a mechanic in a can or bottle!!! At one time in all those years I was a certified Knuckle Buster on Cat&Cummins. Back in the 70s I started using Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella 15W40 in everything I own!!! Currently I have a1992 lawn tractor with a 20hp Kohler and a 1995 F250 and both are running Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic and neither have a oil consumption PROBLEM!!!

It's not just Bama. Overpolicing and the court system have been used all over this country as a main revenue source. This kind of liberal use of enforcing laws leads to corruption. On a brighter note: this is an awesome series, thanks.

Change your PCV valve again. They sometimes go faulty early on high mileage cars in as little as 10K miles. Its cheap and a good and easy test for your content. Props to you for your wonderful family and being an amazing father. Peace be unto you and yours.

Watched all the oil burning videos. Enjoyed you and the birds.

Berrymans there was a decrease in oil consumption Cro 505 the compression difference between cylinders decreased The Yamaha ring free removed a lot of carbon deposits in the cylinders. Driving a long long(to Florida) distance may have played a role in the lower oil consumption. Try the same long drive with synthetic? The knocking occurs when there is a lot of carbon build up on the piston and cylinder head. The carbon gets hot and can set off combustion early (knocking and pinging).

Now you know how it feels to be a truck driver with all those tickets.

Im thinking 🤔....pull all 4 plugs and fill the cylinders with JB weld... Tow the Corolla to a monster jam event and let em run it over...piss on it...then flatbed it to Alabama and drop it off at the police station with a huge bow on the roof as a present to the cop who wrote the ticket... 😂...

Before it all comes apart how about trying a few gas tanks of non-ethanol gasoline with some carbon cleaner in the oil.

If the HPL Engine cleaner and the HPL 5W30 didnt solve that issue, its beyond an Oil additive solution. The ANs and Esters contained in that product normally cut through sludge, carbon and varnish like a hot knife through butter. Time to re-think your approach to this issue and look at a mechanical solution. Also, I never observed you changing the Oil filter on the Corolla. If that's the case, it's most likely clogged up and running in Bypass mode. Just saying. Good luck on your journey 😊Nothing wrong with keeping that old girl running.........the Car, that is......😂

I look forward to these videos.Thanks for sharing .So sorry to see the bad luck with the Police.Your family are very nice .All the best from Tassie Australia..

Hi Dave, from my endurance racing oil experiments. We know that Amsoil does indeed reduce oil consumption, next best thing is Rotella T6. Let me know if you interested to try some, and I can send you some Amsoil to try it.

Now I think it is time for the BG treatment or ... the DMSO could be more effective (and more intereting)

Great video! My daughter has a Kia with the 2.4L and it burns a lot of oil too. The only oil that I've found that will slow hers down quite a bit is the Super Tech High Mileage full syn from Walmart in the 10W-30 flavor. It really slows it down quite a bit. Unfortunately it doesn't stop it though.

I agree, they saw out-of-state license plates and pulled you over. That's why it's important to have a camera running in your car, so you can prove your innocence.

Hi Dave, I am going through a similar issue with my Isuzu trooper with 6VE1 engine. I recently switched to rotella 5w40 and it’s too early to say for sure but it is appearing to help. It is my understanding that these engines also have similar problems with the rings. I would be curious to see the results with your Corolla. Keep up the good work and thank you so much for the videos!

My 07 Camry reached 2,385 miles and the final dipstick was 1/3 of the dipstick from the top dot. I could have gone 5k miles and not have to add oil but decided to perform a 2nd Berrymans B12 piston soak. I decided to perform a second piston soak, with the engine warmed up, turning the crank 5 revolution and continued every 6 hours. I also added 1/2 oz of transmission fluid into each cylinder and sprayed a little engine starter fluid to save the starter and it did start right away. I proceeded to run the engine at 4500 rpm for 20 minutes. As an addition I added 1 quart of diesel fuel in the engine oil and let it idle for 10 minutes and Drain and added 5w-20 Kirkland synthetic oil. Rather than going on long drives on the weekends. My daughter is driving the Camry to commutes to college and works. She is driving about 260 miles plus per week. Oil checked this morning with 1250 miles, the dipstick shows slightly below the top dot about 1/8". I would say this better than the first piston soak. I have noticed that oil reading differs from overnight(lower) rather than checking the engine after 30 minutes to 1 hour after driving as the engine is still warm. I will keep you up to date as the millage accumulates.

if I didn't know any better, I would be looking at valve stem seals or HG. In one video you could see the oil leaking down from the top of the cylinder. that is not a ring issue.

I watched some John's General Lee videos for sure! :D

I am retiring summer of 24. I'll be avoiding Alabama in my travels.

Fight all tickets. Don't feed the cancer.

Have you thought about using a catch can to stop the engine feeding oil back into the cylinders with blow back and continually gumming up the rings. This may give the rings a chance to free themselves up while running. As far as I can see that the emissions control is a recipe for disaster when excessive oil is returned to the top end of the engine to be burnt off. Burt oil creates carbon. Carbon is hard and scratches bores. Carbon will gum up rings and you will lose your seal. Just a thought. One I’m going to try myself.

Hello Dave, thanks for this very interesting and informative series. My vote would be not to tear down the motor and for you to continue the testing. I have always been a believer and user of B12 and Amsoil, but would also love the see the BK products tested as well. At the beginning of the HPL you dropped in mileage. Maybe HPL is a great cleaner but not a great oil, i would be interested to see a switch back to your kirkland oil and see if that last longer the 800 to 1000 after the HPL treatment. Anyways keep up the great work.

You need to try shell rotella T6, 5w40 or the all new shell rotella T6 10w30

First. Always looking forward to this series.

Try a slightly thicker oil full synthetic 5w40 and make sure its a euro blend motor oil which is made for oil burning gdi engines. I use castrol euro 5w40 on a oil burning 2010 equinox and it reduced the burning by half

I'm thinking you should go back to the B12, but first drain the oil, then leave the plug out and keep the pistons covered with B12 for a couple of days, reusing the B12 that leaks past the rings and out of the oil drain.. preferably through a tube into a bottle or such to minimize evaporation.

Still better than Top Gear’s infamous Alabama experience.

I think you need to find an oil with the highest flash point. With a high detergent. Pennzoil and Amsoil synthetics according to another KZfaq channel Project Farm is those with high flast points. I believe along with your b12 treatments it would make for a well rounded test. Start with a quality oil that stand up. I have a old pickup I just run 15w-40. The thicker oil makes up for the upset of the rings. Am going to do the b12 piston soak. With mmo and lucas upper lubricant in the fuel at constant. Going to try the chemical test plethora at mine as well. Tried bg engine flush in the red can. Had seen no drastic improvement. Doing the seafoam in the crankcase while running it at the moment. Need to do a piston soak as well. Cant hurt it right! Either way I am looking at a vehicle that currently is cheaper/able to have more fun in than a newer vehicle! Even at a motor swap!

I did read to move your spare tire to the rear because it's lighter in the back. It's extra work but it makes sense.

Had good luck restoring compression on my RSX with SeaFoam Deep Creep soaking the cylinders overnight a few times. It has the same cleaning agents as seafoam but it’s also a creeping lubricant.

I have found that you want to use the reamer as much as possible until it's easy to pull in and out. That makes pulling the plug in a lot easier. I have also see the plug installer snap, allowing the metal rod hurt your hand. I think it's awesome she wanted to learn how to change and plug the tire.

Some folks (BMW owners in Germany) use diesel fuel mixed with engine pil to clean the inside.

I'd love to see the full BG service done on this, not just the cans, the cleaner and rinse in the big jugs.

Really interesting on how you are trying different products to solve a very known factory defect that a lot of the older Toyota’s do to bad engineering but it would really help other people to try and see their options on this problem plus it give us all info on what is available on the market that just might help with a older engine that a person wants to keep running as long as they can, I like all the product information you have given and I know slot of other people feel the same thanks and good luck on it.

I have a 96 F250 with the 7.3 powerstroke that was replaced in 2018. It started consuming oil around 57k miles about a quart per 1500 miles. I switched to HPL ck 5w40 at 65k after two complete oil changes it was less than 1 quart every 3000 miles and now at 83k miles it has completely stopped using oil. I’ve also switched to the premium version which allows for more miles between changes.

You should try DMSO Dimethyl sulfoxide, 20w40 plus 250ml DMSO engine idling for one hour, then another flush for 40 minutes with sligthly reving the engine, you just need to remove the inner paint on your sump because DMSO will delaminate the paint.

30:00 Kids need a job. BTW Amsoil or Redline does not help with consumption. I did find that Shell Rotella 15w40 helps.

Entertaining series, with a potential benefit to many...replete with nice scenery, kudos for a great effort. But I was curious if you purposely chose the worst, unredeemable oil burner Corolla engine according to our friend over at The Car Care Nut, and CoPilot? I've been reviewing easy to buy reliable cars lately and several reviewers categorize the 98-08 1zzfe as a notorious oil burner with 00-03 receiving special (bad) mention.

Honda Odyssey have a big problem burning oil due to the fuel management system shuts down the rear 3 cylinders. I switched to using Valvoline VR1 20w50 as an experiment to see if a thicker oil will reduce blow by. And it did. This van would burn oil a quart every week or so. Miles will vary because i use it as a work van. Its probably 400 to 500 a week. Now the oil consumption is down to about a quart every 2 weeks. It obviously isnt a permanent repair. But it does cost less to run. I used to need to buy 10 qts of oil for 1 oil change interval. (5qt capacity) now i can get by on 7 to 8qts in 5k miles. I also used to get a code for the vvt oil pressure and that went away a year ago when i switched to using mobil 1 oil filters. The oil is black but it seems like it has less larger dirt particles in it. I have never bothered to send the oil in to get it analyzed. Long story short, a thicker oil will slow consumption. Although it may consume more fuel now.

I’m a Toyota nut, have three with tags. I have a 97 Corolla, at. Doesn’t burn nearly as much oil as yours but at high speeds (75-80mph ) does burn oil. A lifelong friend, Toyota technician of 30 years tells me the oil holes behind the rings are too small and bad to clog up, causing oil consumption. I think 2001 and earlier are better vehicles

As I mentioned in another comment on another video, I had a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country that was burning a quart in 3,500 miles, more than any other car I owned. Then one day I changed to oil to Castrol Syntec and it made it to the 10,000 mile oil change interval on less than a quart of loss. This continued for a couple of years until one day I changed to valvoline synthetic, and sure as heck, a quart low at 3,500 miles. At the next oil change I switched back to the Castrol Syntec and the oil burning stopped. From that day on I never used any other brand of oil. Except in yacht with diesels. I did run that one for 300 hours with no loss of oil either, but it does hold almost 5 gallons and low to high mark on the stick is 1 gallon. I use Rotella T-5 in that one and am thinking of moving on up to the T-6. The time before I used the T-4 with similar results. On that note, perhaps using 15-40 diesel oil might do the trick. Lots of addatives in there and just a little thicker.

Have you tackled the PCV system yet. There are two sides to the PCV system. One is the overload line that works under WOT. Leave that alone. Then there is the line that works under idle and light cruise. Leave it plumbed exactly like factory but cut the line where you can put a sealed can that can catch the oil before going back into the intake. It will usually be a 3/8 line, a simple large jar crammed with course stainless steel scubbers with 3/8 connectors either side of the lid would be a simple crude setup to see how much oil goes back into the intake.

As the president of The American snake oil Association, we would like to thank you for your contribution. Lol.

Years ago I recall seeing on the 16 oz cans of liquid wrench that had a spout on top, it said to add to oil 100 miles before oil change to dissolve carbon from inside engine but never knew of anyone that tried it. Who knows ? Maybe it works…could be worth a try 🤷🏻

I went through Alabama not too long ago and didn't have any issues with police. Granted I was going the exact speed limit on new years day and only stopped once to fill up in Birmingham.

Try Valvoline Restore & Protect Motor Oil.

Do a trial by written declaration. I have won cases that way. If you are lucky the ticketing officer wont want to do more paperwork so doesnt reply. Even if he does reply if your explanation is good you can still win. When writting it dont make excuses why you did something, just state facts on why you had to do or could not do something. For example when i ran a red light. I didnt say i ran it because someone cut me off i said i ran it because someone cut me off which forced me into the turning lane. I was going 40mph with only 100ft until the intersection at that point and had to continue in that lane with a speed of 40mph i would need 180ft to stop safely according to the NHTSA making it impossible to stop in time forcing me to run the red.

A cold air intake, headers, and a catch can will help you motor work less which in turn you will burn less also I saw black smoke come out of your tail pipe which may be you running rich and or a clogged cat which can also cause oil to burn but you are definitely burning oil threw your rings

Engine oil expands and contracts with temperature. I know this is not meant to be a completely scientific test, but I think you would be better off to have some consistency in how you check the oil level. There is likely a spec'd procedure in the car's owners manual. From the vehicles I have had, it usually something like, "run the engine until at normal operating temp. Park on level surface and turn off engine. Wait 20 minutes and then check the engine oil level." Just something to consider. Thanks the entertaining video series! This video made me want to vacation to Pensacola and maybe get a management job at a truck stop! LOL

My 2017 Hyundai Elantra burned about a quart of oil every 1000 miles. I added 4oz of AT-205 to my fresh oil change and after 3800 miles, it completely stopped the consumption. I'm about 1000 miles into my next oil change and so far I haven't had to add anything! Give that a shot!

Here's the fact Jack you need a complete eng.head rebuild and you'll quit using oil the valve seats and seals are shot I know I had the same Corolla

Thanks for sharing your struggles. I enjoy your adventures on the journey and don't care about the destination.

That oil is absolutely hashed... before you give up do a regular oil change on a short interval. Then check consumption on the second oil change. If oil is making its way past the rings so is fuel. That viscosity has to be close to zero.