Haha I know right. When I first saw that thing… I was deadset thinking “you can’t be serious” (having had zero trepanning experience at that point. Now… I love our little tunnel borer 🤣 Thanks for subscribing too. Really appreciate it

Totally worth it. Not cheap, but pays for itself day one in all reality. And much better for the machine. Spindle load drops from 85% plus on a spade drill to 54% with the HTS.

It’s a bloody weapon. So much fun to run 💯

That’s good to know man. Sounds like you’ve got some really solid experience with these tools. Appreciate the comment, and definitely agree re toolpost rigidity. We’ve had to upgrade the big lathe to a HD toolpost designed for deep drilling. Far more secure and doesn’t seem to budge. Thankfully. It’s wild to watch a drill like that hit a piece of steel held by a 200kg chuck spinning at 900 rpm.

That’s great advice brother. Yeah, most of the experienced machinists I talk to hold a similar opinion. Appreciate the feedback. I’m just here to learn, and share what I’ve learned. Ego is definitely the enemy, and I’m glad it shows on the channel. Major focus will be long form. I’ll pop the occasional short, but I find long form far more enjoyable

I’ve heard great things and am definitely going to go watch all his stuff. Thanks for the recommendation mate

Thanks for the feedback mate. Really appreciate it.

So true. So so true

Thanks for tuning in mate, and for the great feedback!

Thanks Richard, appreciate the great feedback mate. Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks for the encouragement mate. Glad people seem to be enjoying the content.

It’s a weapon for sure

Most certainly can do in the future Butch. That’s a great suggestion.

Thank you 👊

Cheers Paul! Hope you’re well brother. Bro I’m pretty sure you were the very first comment on the channel. Really appreciate the support dude

Thanks mate

That’s very interesting. I’m going to try it just to see! Thanks for the tip. Yeah, we just use them as a roughing tool. Finish can be a bit hit and miss from my experience. Maybe it’s just because we do 4140… or maybe it’s operator related… but I find we’re not the only ones with this issue.

yeah, if it has a flat or two on the shank a big shifter does a similar thing.

👊👍

​@@halheavydutyinfo. The clamp kills the frequency because it rises the diameter of the rod. Imagine when you hit a 1cm 2m rod the vibrations will travel with ease trough the thin rod but when you hammer a 10cm rod the vibration has to pass trough a lot more material and engage with a lot more mass. So you can rise artifical the diameter the vibrations have to pass. The vibration is buildup from the cutting edge and it starts when the chip breaks of to wiggle. As longer and thicker the boring bar gets the dull the frequency gets what results in less sound. There are machines made with counteracustic parts. They send out a soundwave the overlays a messured frequency onthefly and then give out a counter the soundwave to lower the singing. I dont remember the producer.

That’s really good to know! Thank you very much for sharing. What kind of work do you do??

Cheers Ralph. Thanks for tuning in brother 👊

before you face and drill first op spot drill

🇦🇺🫡🇺🇸💯 Thanks for tuning in mate 👊

At this point I totally agree. I haven’t tried them all, but Kennamental remains my pick for drilling.

I have tried several drilling tools from Kennametal. The series with interchangeable head is extremely performing, (but high cost for head and resharpening). The drill-fix series with a square external insert doesn't excite me. Efficient, but noisy. Excellent solid carbide tips, the extra long series (30xD++) is impressive

That’s good to know. Until we get a more high performing modern CNC (ie Doosan, DMG etc with a turret) I won’t attempt the solid carbide drills. They look awesome, but I just know we don’t have the precision… yet Goals haha. Man, thanks for the comment and sharing your experience. Really appreciate it.

Solid carbide drills are very efficient tools, but require chucks with low run out and stable machines. The refrigerant pressure is very important. I work on a boring machine (Kbn 135 C), when I encounter pieces with risk of vibration I prefer to use hss tools

Wise move. If we had a more high end CNC I’d definitely look at solid carbide drills. From what I can see they are awesome

💯👊

I noticed that too. I’ll be running it again this week and seeing if it makes a difference. Well picked up 👊 I actually think I just need to increase the feed. Test and learn… That’s the game 👍👊

Cheers mate.

It’s a weapon for sure

Brother, thanks a lot for that comment. It’s really helpful. I’m going to jot all that down and play with speed and feeds next time I do a batch run.

Muchas gracias amigo! Dónde vives??

That’s excellent advice, and I’ll definitely try it. Thank you!

Love it. I had to google what a Hoss is 🤣

@@halheavyduty damn, lost in translation, hahaha. You guys rock👍😎

Grandma was Texan, so as a kid I’d developed a bunch of her sayings that none of the other kids at school understood. Y’all come back now, y’hear 🤣

Nice one! I’d love to visit Holland one day. What kind of large work do you do??

@@halheavyduty Check out Sanders Gears and Castings.

Wow man. Around since 1846 and one of the oldest manufacturers in the Netherlands. Looks like they do some big stuff brother. Very very cool indeed.

Our machines are 20 & 25 hp - so by no means monster machines as far as CNCs gos. They have good swing & bores, but there are def more powerful on the market. I like the look of the TL1! Seems like a good little machine. We could probably use something that size in the future TBH. You could probably use smaller Udrills on it. The major issue is toolpost rigidity. There is a large amount of z axis force generated. We had to alter ours to run the long drills, but it’s def doable. Thanks for feedback re shorts vs long form too. I don’t post many shorts these days, mostly due to how crazy busy the shop gets. I kinda just started posting them on FB… people liked them and then it led to here. Wild how things evolve.

We’ve since fixed the vibration, thankfully! It’s a pretty rigid lathe, so the problem was the toolpost, which we have modified for HD drilling. Works a treat now. Thanks for the comment too. It’s really helpful getting everyone’s thoughts.

It totally does🤣 I loved that move as a kid

Haha. It’s definitely different. It’s called Holemaker. It seems to have excellent rust prevention properties and never goes off. They were using it before I took over the shop, and I haven’t found a better alternative. Totally open to any recommendations for high performing 4140 cutting fluid.

It sure looks like it hey 🤣

I’m definitely going to try that to dampen vibration. Thanks for the tip. The toolposts are actually a custom heavy duty design, modified from original Dixon toolposts. So far they seem to hold really well, but we did have some issues with the big lathe originally, as it didn’t come with the HD option funnily enough. Meeeega problems with it wanting to rotate.

Awesome! Man I love watching videos for India. You guys are the kind of heavy duty l, especially in big lathes.

Great tip. We have it currently at F0.05 for 7mm, then we send it. RPM is constant at 750-900 Still playing with it. I suspect I might need to feed harder if possible though?

Awesome man. Flick me an email to halengineeringaustralia@gmail.com and I’ll reach out during the week for sure 👍

@@halheavydutywill do thanks.

Legend. Look forward to being in touch brother.

The facing pass was at about 550 rpm The drilling cycle was at 900 👍

@@halheavyduty What was your feed per rev?

Face cuts are 0.25 The drill is 0.15 but I think I need to run harder TBH

@@halheavyduty I wouldn't run much harder than that

Yeah, I stick to those feeds as a baseline. Never run roughing past 0.35 for outer turning. Finishing tends to be good at 0.25 I’m relatively conservative with how hard I push the gear and keep spindle loads at around 40-50% most of the time too.

Haha. Classic!

It’s called Holemaker. I’m not totally sure if it’s even intended as a CNC coolant, but it seems to work just fine. We get great life out of carbide and it has excellent rust prevention properties- which is super important considering the nature of our work.

Really? Interesting idea. I’ll try that. Thanks man!

@halheavyduty i was doing that before those super drills come on the market, alot of the skills i learnt in my time as a engineer have be lost , as there never taught , i was a manual machinist as a young man and learnt from 2 old timers , 50 years ago ,my last job in engineering i was maching hydraulic cylinders and rods cylinders 3 m diameter 12 m long 12 tons, and the rods were 500mm uptp 745mm,

I totally hear you re lost knowledge. I’ve got solid hope that there is a real reawakening of interest in engineering and machining. It’s not taught or encouraged enough in school (certainly wasn’t for me) but I think a positive side effect of visual media is that people (particularly young) can now SEE what’s possible. Those cylinders sound insane to machine. Where are you based Paul??

@@halheavyduty west yorkshire england, my home town had massive engineering companies, in the space of 25 years 20,000 engineering jobs have gone😢,

It’s really tragic how the ‘leaders’ of the western world practically handed the foundational bedrock of our prosperity offshore. Same here in Australia. We were once a mini industrial powerhouse… now we’re just a big sandpit that sells raw materials. That said… my job is to repair the rigs that dig the sandpit. So silver linings do exist. I do see a renewed interest in hands on professions in young men especially… so subtly hopeful for the future.

That’s the most appropriate slogan imaginable for what we do 🤣 Bloody love it.

I agree. If you start the coolant before the inserts are engaged, you will extend insert life even further. I appreciate you didn't want it spraying all over and maybe that's why you started once the tool was in the hole. Anyway, nice video and I'm glad you've experienced the amazing results the HTS system delivers.

Will try that for sure. Yeah, we usually run coolant immediately… just turned it off for the video

Cheers Mike!

Yeah, I hear you. We had a few toolpost issues but modified it to make to way more rigid. I might do a future video on that topic, as it took a LOT of troubleshooting to get it right. Seems to work pretty well now.

I have a 1400XS with OiTD controller and home is G28 U0 W0

Very similar to ours. I dont know about you, but I find it a great machine and really enjoyable to operate.

It is enjoyable to operate, but the tool post we selected isn't as rigid as we expected. It's a small machine but still. And the last time I tried a G28 it went X- until soft travel limit. I think it's not set up properly

I’ll try that for sure. Will be playing with both feeds and speeds to find the “comfortable maximum” for the tool. We don’t try to max things out as much as a lot of people… I’m just interested in getting the job done without breaking shit

@@halheavyduty thats how it should be. dosnt matter id you can get it done fast if you can't do it stable enough to be able to count on it. i mean it's not a swiss type lathe where every second couth and you got max stability dosnt matter if you can run a part 3 secends faster each if you can only make 1/3 the amout of parts per insert. since that way you actually spend more time makeing the part ( all the stop's to change insert quickly adds up in time )

💯

Yep. Just under 3 mins You’re dead on. 900 x 0.15 = 135mm per min 380 / 135 = 2.85 2 mins 48 seconds more or less Three mins to allow for the 5mm slower start where we halve the feed rate.

It’s just the weird brand we use. Has excellent rust prevention properties and seems to do the job

Thank you very much. Appreciate it!

He said in a different video that buying thick walled tube in 4140 in Australia is either really hard or its simply not available

It would indeed, however we can’t source 4140 hollow bar in Australia. That, and most of our products have different holes each end, often varying depths. Great question mate. Love it.

@@halheavyduty Even if it was available hollow bars cost 2-3 times more than solids. Especially in stainless steels,that's why I prefer to drill them from solid. Just for an extra minute or two of cycle time you save half the material cost. Of course within reason not going to bore out a 300 dia. hole by drilling.

This is true. Hence why the core drill we run is so useful for bigger stuff. We get the job done in about 1/3 of the time and get a $400 billet for free.

Hahahaha. Love it. Castros son clearly approves of our coolant choice

@@halheavyduty Hey Matt after seeing the above comment in regards to coolant colour , if I were you I'd change it first thing tomorrow morning.😂😂😂

Don’t worry… it absolutely crossed my mind. Fark. I subconsciously refused to go see the new Godzilla movie because of his new woke upgraded pink atomic breath 🤣

Haha. Accurate AF Grandma was Texan, so that probably explains it 🤣

They do 💯 🤣

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