LOL i was just going to tell him the same thing.

Exactly!

Mine was that exactly, the radio wasn’t grounded enough I ran a 8 gauge wire from my ground bar to the ground bolt on the back of my radio and it stopped all the weird stuff that it was doing so I can definitely agree with ya there

To add to this, basically what is happening is that the “ground” at the radio is slightly different than the ground at the amplifier. This can be due to small resistances between the negative battery post and the ground at each device. Once these grounds are at separate potentials, you then connect the RCAs between them. This creates a short between these two different grounds at different potentials. When you have two different potentials connected you get a current flow, which is now going across your rcas and being turned into noise. (Poor grounding somewhere, or in multiple locations in the system) A ground loop isolator is more of a band aid for this issue (typically a couple transformers that will “isolate” the rca wires and remove that short between the two different ground potentials).The real fix is to upgrade and fix your grounds everywhere you can. This includes the battery grounds to chassis (big 3) and the grounds for the radio and the amplifier. All the extra wire you added is doing is making a lower resistance path for the current to flow (reducing the current flowing across the RCAs and the noise).

@@mattb6001 what he said. People always over look their grounds. I was told by a shop keep them short clean and ohm ohm the ground if you still have noise.

Yup newb shit lol better head unit ground or ground to the same point as the amp done deal

he could aslo add a cap on to the four channel amp for cleaner output to the amp

I still have a couple sets of Rockford Foagates like that. Twisted with a grounding wire

@@stevepartridge75 Yep I know the ones. Some people used it for a remote turn on to. I wouldn't but I guess it could.

@@thenotoriousrvh6091 Wow, i'm still learning. I used to use that as a remote wire as that is what i understood it to be, i haven't done that in quite a while now though.

@@HashDogg06 You aren't the only one 😂. I guess it'd be fine. Just a little too thin for my liking.

pioneer units had peco fuse problems since i was young, its what knocked them out the lead back in the day kenwood all day since

Yes, can't beat a ground run from alt case or battery negative.. I've got 2 grounds.. 1 from alt case to rear battery and to chassis. No issues with static sound whatsoever 👌

Yeah man I’m excited!

The noise came back I think I’m going to have to ground the rcas or find where they are not paralleled

@@PeterFeltersnatch852 If I had the money to spare I would! Love seeing his videos!

Get a bstock thats what I did I was 980 and just had a damaged box

Do you think the sundown SFB will out perform the Taramps. Well he is going up 1300 more watts but in a head to head competition?

@@pvgreen621 I think it would be difficult to tell. It would mainly be for reliability and to match his 4 channel amp. But he has a lot of issues out of his SFB 500.4

@@jonadkins9339 what kind of issues?

Yep..exactly..pioneers are notorious for it

Yup them damn Pico fuses.

They have what's called a pico fuse and they blow all the time and it breaks the ground on the headunit preouts. It happens if you hot swap RCAs, or look at them the wrong way lol.

Good to know.. I just installed a pioneer & I hate that whining noise..

Never unplug the rcas with the headinit powered up. It pops the fuse immediately.

I will do a few

Did you ground a wire to the head unit itself. Or to the ground wire on the head unit harness. Please reply. Tks

American Bass

@@chadwargo5798 thanks that's what I figured

Its a blown Pico fuse.

Usually those 1 farad capacitors aren't real, most capacitors made by amplifier brands to buffer your power rails going into an amplifier usually aren't legitimate, typically they're just a board with a bunch of tiny no name branded cheap capacitors wired in parallel surrounded by a cheap can. I had a so-called 1 farad capacitor by lightning audio and it just had several capacitors wired in parallel on a tiny board, with a block of concrete on the bottom to make it seem like it was heavier than it actually was and it only added up to about a hundred thousand microfarads. That's also one of the reasons why most people who use power capacitors for subwoofer amplifiers always say they don't really do much because they're not really what they are advertised and they are being ripped off. If you want to get a real one farad capacitor, go to Mouser Electronics, find a screw type capacitor, make sure it's at least 16 - 25 volts, use nichicons nt or lnr series as an example, both are fantastic. it won't be cheap but you get what you pay for, you'd actually be getting a real 1 farad capacitor from a well-established brand and a well-known component distributor. This is a REAL 1 Farad capacitor, it's worth the 172 bucks! 647-LNR1C105MSE www.mouser.com/access/?pn=647-LNR1C105MSE&sn=647-LNR1C105MSE&LNR1C105MSE&Nichicon I also highly recommend you get 470 ohm 3 or 5 watt resistor and have that attached to the negative terminal when you first power up the capacitor the resistor is going to get incredibly hot, however it's necessary to have a resistor at on it at first to limit the capacitors inRushCurrent, it'll draw so much current that it's almost like a dead short. it would put a considerable strain on your alternator and battery if you don't put a resistor before it you'll likely get a spark from one of its terminals once you touch it because it'll be sucking so much power. leave the resistor attached for 5 or 10 mins before hooking it up to the system directly. Also don't forget to observe proper polarity, make sure the positive goes to the positive and the negative goes to the negative, otherwise you can damage the capacitor.

@@analogaudiorules1724 yeah i know those 1 farad capacitors are a joke for storage but ive seen a video of a guy showing that they help eliminate engine noise. i use a bank of maxwell super caps with a 120ah agm in the trunk for storage. its a bit of an overkill for 1500w but it keeps my voltage up to the mids 13s. my car limits my voltage to 13.8v instead of the traditional 14.4v, its something to do with gas efficiency

What resistor where is it located on the board?

@@jarredri its usually located close to the rca outputs... i recomend you consult someone does repairs... if it isnt done properly it can mess up the head unit

Correct!!

Didn't work for me. I still get buzzing or whining and I bought new pioneer deck and I still have it. Only th ing i can think of is a ground loop to my seat frame where its connected at

Also I only get buzz when running dual amps set ups

A "rf gound loop isolator" is cylindrical and look like a "D" size battery with male rca plugs on one end and female on the other it goes inbetween the radio and the amplifiers good rca's are shielded but some cars have it and that was always the solution good luck happy bumpin

Rca ground loop isolator search that on amazon

It also knocks out the thumping that some systems will have when you change the radio station or when you turn it on and off your hear loud thumps go into the subwoofers it knocks out the winding from the engine and that bass thumping feedback

Yes it stopped 95% of it!

Ok bro I’ll try it tmrw

@@ParkerTheBasshead didn’t work bro...

Where can I get those rca

@@bigchief1658 I get mine on eBay straight from Knukonceptz.

@@bigchief1658 it’s their Krystal model.