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Thank you for your kind comment, I hope you are successful 🤞

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Thank you for your comment. You are correct, that point was not covered properly, my apologies. However notice in the videos, the work took place with the cables still through the part centers which kinda infers no wires were cut, believe me, it would been so so much easier had they been. So no cutting or splicing, just unplugging directly from the Door Modules. In my LH video you can see the cable at around 0:57, there are 2 connectors C3 (Blue 10-Way ) and C4 (Black 10--Way ) Hope this helps 👍

Thank you for your comment. There's a second video for the left door from1:27 according to me it was a 13mm A/F wrench, hope this helps kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n7ChZJeJmNeVdGw.html

Assume you mean the impact sensors underneath. If they are plugged-in they should be waterproof, if not dry them out and flush with an IPA based cleaner and leave to dry.

Unfortunately there are no adjustments, it will either be something broken or not seated correctly. Are the Left/Right/Up/Down controls working? Is the mirror itself loose? If the controls don't work then its likely to be the little rack+pinion gears that are broken (very common) The could also be what I call the "seesaw" pivot-arm which ofetn gets broken (car-washes) or it could be the mirror has not locked into position, my guess is that you will have tried that. The only route is to try ebay for 2nd hand mechanisms, which is what I did myself. Ebay is a bit pot-luck quite often they're listed as "working" but usually are not, but if your lucky the broken bits will be different to yours , it took me 3 attempts!

Take a look at this post on hummerforums.com it may help, let me know. www.hummerforums.com/forum/hummer-h2-8/remove-shake-slop-1st-gen-side-mirrors-45265/

If you manually fold both arms in, do they both retract when you hit the button?

@@hummerfixes I havent tried manually folding both mirrors in and trying the button just the driverside folded in then hit button. Passenger side will fold in and out but driver just sits manually folded. I have already left shop today. I will try that tomorrow, and give you update on that !!!

​@@jmc6281As the complete driver's side arm was replaced and will not fold in or out then that pretty much eliminates the mechanism itself. For the arm to fold-in, the pan and tilt of the mirror-glass has to work correctly i.e. Up goes Up, Down goes down, Left goes left and Right goes right. Double check that "Kerb-View is working (note it's easy to get the mirror-glass motors reversed) However the arm should always extend regardless. If pan & tilt are OK then that suggests two possibilities :- First, It could be a wiring fault since it's the same chip inside the DDM that controls the Pan & Tilt. DDM connector C4 Pins 1 Yellow & 6 Light Blue (10-Way Black) should go to the arm motor check with a multimeter from the DDM to the motor (note you can't just measure the motor windings as there's a smart chip inside the motor) It cannot be a fuse. Secondly it could be a faulty DDM, possibly a bad solder joint on Connector C4 or the pins on the chip close to it (STL9949) or worst case the chip itself. If you watch this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gMCcapd3zrGbYWg.html at the 5:19 mark you can see the connector C4 closest to my hand and the chip next to it (note the PDM and DDM are different)

Have tried manually folding both mirrors an then hitting open button. Only the passenger side folds open driver side just sits folded but will reset mirror if it needed moved . I have full control of all directions of both driver and passenger mirrors.

@@jmc6281The arms should always be able to extend, so it's probably time to check the wiring. Here are 3 ways to check:- 1, Measure the voltage across C4-1 and C4-6 as you command the arm to move, you should read 12V for a few seconds, the polarity will depend on the direction i.e. extend or retract. 2, Alternatively, connect a small 12V lamp across those same two wires, the lamp should light for both extend and retract. 3, Alternatively completely unplug the DDM, apply 12V to those two wires (and only those 2) the arm should either extend or retract depending on the polarity. Keep the duration only long enough to complete the move then disconnect, do not over-drive! Options 1 or are probably the easiest, if you read 12V or the lamp lights then there's a problem in the wiring or with the arm motor itself. Option 3 will 100% prove that the arm is working so the fault must be with the DDM (which may be fixable ) It sounds like you may have a problem with the L9949 driver chip inside the DDM, sometimes water gets and the PCB corrodes, or there's a dry-joint. The chips are available on eBay but I'd open-up the DDM and take a look, all may be revealed once you look inside. You asked if the dealership hit the mirror, what if they damaged your DDM (or worse borrowed it)?

Thank you for your comment Masahiro-san. Is this the Drivers Door Module (DDM) or Passenger Door Module (PDM)? If so there are no separate supply voltages (even though the GM circuit diagram shows them) At the 8:20 mark in this video "kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gMCcapd3zrGbYWg.html" you can see the Keypad PCB has 6 yellow LEDs. They're hard to notice, but there is one between the two contact pads on the very LHS mounted on the opposite side, there are 5 more similar sized holes with LEDs. At the 5:23 mark, notice the black 12-Way connector, top row, 5th pin from the left (Pin-8) is the common 12V power to the LEDs and connects to the main CPU PCB. Maybe there has been some water ingress and the track(s) to pin 8 (either PCB) have corroded away? This is my best estimate given your comment. Arigato gozaimasu

@@hummerfixes Thank you for your prompt reply. Also, I was surprised to add [san] to Japanese people. You have a good understanding of the Japanese. I wanted to know both [DDM] and [PDM]. I changed all the LEDs from white to blue. I wanted to check the lights at the same time. That's why I wanted to know the terminal.

@@Sskkwe Masahiro-san do itashimashite. Regarding changing to Blue LEDs muzukashii desu. For example the DDM there are 2 Yellow and 4 White LEDS. The Yellow LEDS (Mirror 8way Pan/Tilt, Window Lock1 ) all have the same brightness/current = 22mA . The White LEDs have different brightness/current depending on function (Mirror L/R Select = 5mA (2K2), Window Lock2 = 5mA (2K2), Windows Up/Down Buttons = 8mA (1K2), Door Lock/Unlock = 15mA (470r). Each LED has a series resistor to set the current but the voltage drop across the LEDs depends on the color i.e. White = 2.6V and Yellow 1.7V so the formula is Current = (12V - LED-Voltage) / Resistor value or Resistor = (12V - LED-Voltage) / Current. For example the Yellow LEDS current = (12-1.7) / 470R =0.022 (22mA) Also LED voltages between manufacturers vary and also brightness, brightness also is a human perception. Now BLUE Chip LEDs are typically 3.3V so for example, for a current of 5mA the resistor would be 1K8. The PDM I have not fully reverse-engineered yet, but the LEDs and resistors are probably going to be the same. Hope this helps...

@@hummerfixes It was very understandable. Very good information. Please let me know if there is anything difficult. I love Hummer H2.

Thanks for the comment. Keep us posted on how it goes, all feedback is useful 👍

Actually I need to follow the video up, if the mirror pan/tilt motors are not working correctly the arms won't fold because the mirrors have to "home" first So the chip was ok ... Who knew that!

@@hummerfixes I put a new window mirror control module in my drivers side in my 05 H2 and my drivers side mirror quit working. I'm getting it reprogrammed and hopefully that will fix it. Thanks.

Well I'd be interested to know if they actually can be re-programmed, not all modules can be. @@sdelliott31

Thank you for your comments. Would you know a source for exterior mirrors? They seem to be around $600, double if shipping out the US, also, a forum member purchased new ones back in Aug, then found the connectors were different still not resolved it. Parts tend to be bit hit and miss, though I did hear someone found a source of motors. Chances are a pair will be needed to match and you still have to take the door to bits, plus used ones tend to come broken gears from my experience.