This vid was heavily edited. 😆

The HDA-199 carb has a provision to provide atmospheric venting through the black plastic separator. When the improper replacement gasket set, that does not have a hole for air movement, is used a problem arrises. This was done by Walbro to prevent saw dust from entering a top plate hole and jamming the diaphragm from moving. Replace the gasket or provide a hole in the gasket.

@@ronaldbrown5745 Yes I'm aware of the vent in the plastic spacer block but that vent has been known to not function properly because it redirect's the vent that's why it act's up, to many port's to work through and yes I'm also aware of the extra hole for said vent in that gasket. That's why like I mentioned you need to get the right gasket kit K24-HDA which has that extra hole along with the extra gasket needed for said spacer block, that's were most people screw up and get the wrong kit and it doesn't work for them. It was a neat idea Walbro had to not have that hole in the cover but it was just that an idea that didn't work so well, the rest of the carb is good. Besides most all other carb's on the market have a direct vent hole of some sort in the cover plate it's a proven design that simply work's, that's why I convert them and guess what; it work's.

Ever have issues with the accelerator pump circuits? My xpg has the hda 191 has a slow return to idle, was gonna swap the zama out of my 359 see if it made a difference. Other than that it runs great.

@@stickyricky9612 I have not yet but that doesn't mean that I won't run into this problem with one of these carb's at some point, carb's have many small part's and anything can go wrong and it does happen; they all have tiny check valve's inside them so be careful when cleaning any carb to much air pressure from a blast of an air hose can bugger them up. If you have a another carb to try then I would try that way you ruled out if that's the issue. It's also good to check your fuel line a pin hole can send you in circles and don't forget the fuel filter one of the most overlooked but most forgotten thing's on a saw. After all of that check's out then could be you've got the start of a small air leak like Body said in this video these saw's are prone to air leak's, if your saw's starting to act up check your intake track very close. If the boot is getting hard it's time to change it along with those crappy plastic intake snap clamps husky used on some of the early one's, upgrade to a metal one if yours doesn't already have it. Also something most people overlook is that small short impulse hose on the out side of the intake trac it's only about an inch long in a "C" shape but if it's gotten hard they can start a slow leak as well, best of luck.