Only if you’re doing strictyly hydroponics, right?

@@elemze56 yep

Tutorial Hidroponik , im from indonesia pak, can you help me give some lesson, i want to start hidroponik but i’m beginner.

@@fransbarus6446 ayo gas pak, jangan mau kalah sama luar negeri, minimal tanam untuk kebutuhan rumah

Hey, guy which system is best profitable for us is there hydroponics or aquaphonics

Yes you can but that would be a bit costly but will do the trick

Same here.. from S.A. but im more interested in Aquaponics .. Fish and plants

we haven't tried that system so we can not comment personally but from what we read its good for heavier crops

Yes, it's the same. Both are considered DWC, float or auto fill resiviors

yes we have recently done 2 videos on pH & Ec , If you interested you can check it out

The RDWC system (which we still currently use) has shown us the best results so far ,and is a system I would recommend

@@AHhydrogrow thank you!

If you are space constrained a multi layered NFT will save space, a vertical non pyramid shaped setup would be more easier to work with

@@AHhydrogrow Very much appreciated.

@@AHhydrogrow i preferred pyramid style because of sunlight concern.

If your wall is shaded, you might struggle. If it's full sun it might heat up too much. DWC isn't a great choice for many reasons, so you will need power and a pump. If you plan well, you can bury your resevior deep enough to have the earth cool/heat your water. I suggest first trying a simple bin, some Styrofoam (or other float) with a few holes and net cups. You'll need something for aeration. A fish tank pump and air stone are probably enough to start. See if you like hydroponics, learn about nutri3nts and pH. With more knowledge, you'll be ready to step up. Even Kratky in Mason jars is a decent start to learn about water chemistry, and that costs a few bucks.

I think it is a form of DWC which stands for Deep Water Culture.

In Kratky Method, plant is suspended in fix level. The water naturally decreases over time as plant grow and only few of roots will touch the water (especially for lettuce). This promotes aeration (air gap) hence, it does not need an airpump or other moving part. In DWC, plant is suspended to a floating styro and root is always fully submerged (deep water culture). This type of system does requires an air pump to promote aeration and better yield. To warp it up, the major differences of this two system are; first how plant is suspended ( is it on a floating raft or was it fixed to a certain level) and second, how are they got their root aeration (does it have an air pump or doesn't have any moving part at all).

cocopeat has some disadvantages ,so we prefer rockwool

I think your question is not properly comprehended by AH hydroponics. I guess a drip method on cocopeat can work just as u suggested. He didn't mention anything on that system.Cheers

RDWC, Its what we found most fail proof

Since your light source will be just the window then do a vertical nft that kinda fills the window space. Not sure if just window light will be enough but you might have to choose crops that love some shade and prefer short light periods

I would not know what is the best nutrients based on location , the kratly method is a good system for beginners

weather organic or not ,all nutrients and supplements break down to their chemical or molecular state (A chemical substance is a form of matter having constant chemical composition and characteristic properties. Some references add that chemical substance cannot be separated into its constituent elements by physical separation methods, i.e., without breaking chemical bonds. Wikipedia) so weather synthesized or natural the composition is the same. so in that light I dont think its possible.

I would not know , I have never tried strawberry's but hope to try it one day

I changed water every 7-8 days, but I think it depends on several factors. First of all, how much nutrients is left in the water? If it's too low, you should change it because, well, there is no food left for your plants. Secondly, if the pH level is way up after a week or two, then you should change the water because adding too much pH down is not good for your plants - at least that's what I heard. I also heard that when pH goes up, it means your plants are eating well and vice versa. When I changed out water, I didn't just dump it away, I used that to watering my garden... I believe there is a way for you to reconditioning the water to use it again but haven't been doing any research on that. Good luck!

@@jacknguyen4033 You are assuming that all the elements in the nutrient solution are used equally but they are not. Over time, especially if you top up with nutrients, you will have an imbalance as some elements build up in the reservoir. You wont be able to tell by EC. PH is affected by the elemental uptake, for example, if the plants take nitrate (NO3) from the solution the PH will rise, if they take potassium (K) it will fall. Tyically PH will rise in the vegetative stage (higher N uptake) and fall in bloom stage (higher K uptake). Some nutrients use a higher percentage of ammonium (NH4) to control PH in the vegetative stage, NH4 uptake causes ph to fall. Adding exceesive amounts of PH down (usually phosphoric acid) will cause imbalances as it adds P ;) Its best to use a nitric acid based ph down in veg, especially if you use tap water. The nitric will react with the carbonates to form nitrates which are plant available. Phosphoric acid will form phosphates which are generally not very soluble and therefore unavilable to the plants.

EC stands for electrical conductivity (it basically shows the amount of salts in the water) The vertical system may work well for some and not for others because of some structural limitations.

Its a good concept for a small system but not really used on a large scale

The answer is literally in the video, damn how lazy are you.

the roots of the plants are under water all the time except for the vertical system which requires a water cycle every 2-5 hours or what suits your system

What's ON and OFF duration of cycle?

Probably to keep out mould???

As was mentioned in the video its recommended that you change the water but not entirely necessary if its above 1000L and your plants are doing well, in that case you can change it every month or two or when you feel necessary depending on your system. Using a filter has its pros and cons, like clogging etc but the main reason for changing the water is to replenish the micro nutrients and remove toxicity (by the build up of unused nutrients etc).

As was mentioned in the video its recommended that you change the water but not entirely necessary if its above 1000L and your plants are doing well, in that case you can change it every month or two or when you feel necessary depending on your system. Using a filter has its pros and cons, like clogging etc but the main reason for changing the water is to replenish the micro nutrients and remove toxicity (by the build up of unused nutrients etc).