I BUILT A HEATED BED AND IT BLEW A FUSE - GIANT 3D PRINTER BUILD PT. 3

Рет қаралды 173,090

Жыл бұрын

You and your company can try Onshape for Free at Onshape.Pro/IvanMiranda
I'm building a giant 3D printer from scratch, the printer will have a print volume of 1000x1000x1420 mm. Everything you see in the video has been designed and 3D printed by me and the files will be available on my website www.ivanmiranda.com when the project is finished.
I'll be using a Slice Engineering magnum plus hotend and It is controlled by a Duet3 MBHC which is a fantastic controller, check it out!:
www.duet3d.com/products
In this episode I install 4 - 1Kw heaters on a 3mm aluminium plate. The heaters are individually controlled by the Duet3 through 4 SSR and each heated bed has an independent thermal fuse just in case things go haywire.
On top I used a regular piece of 5mm glass. That will be more than enough for PLA or similar plastics.
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CHAPTERS
00:00 The plate
01:07 Half wave rectifier
02:06 Thermal fuse
03:48 Sticking to the plate
06:57 Wiring
08:24 Fail 1 - Short
08:48 Fail 2 - Common ground
09:11 Fail 3 - SSR Triac
10:33 The glass
11:48 Speed test

Пікірлер: 366

@jasonchaney5382 Жыл бұрын

Have you considered a counter weight system for the bed? 80% of the bed weight should save those resin gears while still maintaining downward pressure on the belts. Then you only have to worry about the weight of the print. Can't wait to see what you print on this monster.

@buzz1ebee Жыл бұрын

You can get solid state safety relays which fail safe. With that much power I'd definitely consider using those instead. The thermal fuse is probably worthwhile as well, but if one of those blows you'll have to pull the whole heater pad and insulation off to fix it.

@lifeai1889 Жыл бұрын

actually he should use thermal switch instead its reuseable cuz control board can fail and keep relay on

@Chris-rg6nm Жыл бұрын

How are you dealing with warping on a sheet that big and thin?

@mausball Жыл бұрын

SSRs are not truly fail safe in any form. I deal with them professionally, and no compaince body on earth will approve them in a fail safe capacity. The only legally approved safety systems for SSRs are high limit cutoffs (capillary tube or thermostat style) or an approved control system (similar to a medically approved software system, or an approved mechanical control) with a second element like a mechanical relay.

@cleosynthesis Жыл бұрын

@@mausball I'm sorry but I can't aggree with that! Not every SSR is built the same. Have a look at Crydom 84134000 for example, that is NO SSR so when they fail the circuit is open. The fact that you "deal with them profesionally" doesn't really mean anything.

@mausball Жыл бұрын

@@cleosynthesis Nowhere is that certified as an approved fail safe item. I've used that part number, and a bunch of other high reliability SSRs. They can't pass alone, partly because they cannot offer a dual pole shutoff, but partly because of a fundamental nature of the triac inside.

@Vivishka Жыл бұрын

Awesome ! Suggestion : when using PWM to heat the quadrants, you can alternate them. If you use bellow 25% PWM, running 1 2 3 4 sequentially will never draw more than 1 quadrant worth of amps

@florianhinsch4912 Жыл бұрын

The energy you will need to heat up the area will be the same regardless of PWM strength. If U use 25% PWM it will take 4x the time to heat it up

@mikoajandrzejewski259 Жыл бұрын

@@florianhinsch4912 but when you synchronize PWM with zero crossing on AC power, then it should work:)

@florianhinsch4912 Жыл бұрын

@@mikoajandrzejewski259 i didnt said it wouldnt work. but if you use 1/4 of the power at any given time you could just use less powerfull heaters.

@canonicaltom Жыл бұрын

@@florianhinsch4912 You're missing the point. Let's say you are running them at 75%, which is close to the 80% in the video. If you PWM them all at the same time, you are pulling the full current for 75% of the time, then no current for 25% of the time. If you stagger them instead, you are still pulling the same average power, and so producing the same heat, but now you are pulling no more than 3/4 of the full current. Meaning that you get the same heating in both cases, but in one case you can easily blow the breaker, but in the other case you never do.

@marsgizmo Жыл бұрын

this printer is awesome 🤘😎🤘 the next iteration you have to run it via 3 phase AC 😂

@ilia2178 Жыл бұрын

Year 2025: Ivan prints a house on his 25m x 25m bed 3D printer.

@potato21206 Жыл бұрын

Nah he will print houses

@TheMadJoker87 Жыл бұрын

"you wouldnt download a car" ivan: "hold my beer..."

@acidchoppa Жыл бұрын

Ivan: It’s funny you mention that

@mahmga1 Жыл бұрын

As always Ivan it is a pleasure to see your process, honest mistakes, and especially the willingness to GO BIG! Keep it goin!

@PeetHobby Жыл бұрын

Normally you use heatsink on leads of the fuse when soldering a temperature fuses, so heat don't get to the fuse when soldering them.

@spoon1272 Жыл бұрын

Or an alternative would be to crimp connectors onto the fuses, so no soldering is needed.

@CoolAsFreya Жыл бұрын

I'm loving watching the whole process of building and problem solving this project, keep it up!

@TDOBrandano Жыл бұрын

You can, and probably should, crimp the thermal fuses. And sleeve them with glassfiber sleeves, held in place against the heated surface with an aluminium P clip. Look at an electric hot plate for reference.

@luciflash Жыл бұрын

In stead of the thermal fuse you can use a bimetal probe that's normal closed. You can find them in various temperatures.

@stephenjohnson4955 Жыл бұрын

This is generally discouraged because a thermal fuse is meant to be a last defense against a printer failing for safety issues. A self-resetting switch will cycle back on after a cooldown may occur, but without the issue being resolved. One possible scenario is the bed overheats, the switch trips, but the adhesive of the bed is now weakend, and the heater mat seperates. Now, with the switch restting, the heater mat reheats, but is no longer attached to the bed, and is a significant fire hazard. It's a common question, someone else explained that line of reasoning to me as well.

@blake_schwanke Жыл бұрын

Really enjoyed this video Ivan! I'm excited to see this project up and running.

@Mehecanogeesir Жыл бұрын

Awesome part of the build as usual! Looked like putting on the glass was such a proud moment. Best wishes for the printer! Looking forward to XY axis!

@3DMusketeers Жыл бұрын

As always Ivan, this thing is AMAZING! Really over the top awesome! I appreciate how you leave the fails in there as well, keeps it real for the average users! Keep Making Awesome buddy!

@Creative_Electronics Жыл бұрын

Nice video! I love the marks on the bed you've drawn!

@josecarloscarrion3652 Жыл бұрын

Vaya crack estás hecho. Enhorabuena por tu buen trabajo. Es una pasada ver tus vídeos. Gracias por todo

@remnl Жыл бұрын

amazing project. in a positive way you are the crazy professor. your channel deserves more subscribers . you not only make amazing things your also are very open to show any mistakes. keep up the good work

@hbwh19 Жыл бұрын

Any reason why you don't switch between two pairs of heating pads to be on? Would that not draw the same as your half bridge rectifier solution that didn't pan out? Or for even more even heating, cycle them around and have two pairs on at all time like: 1, 2 On. 3, 4 Off; 2, 3 On. 4, 1 Off; 3, 4 On. 1, 2 Off; 4, 1 On. 2, 3 Off; Repeat till hot.

@ivanmirandawastaken Жыл бұрын

There's no option for that that I could find in the firmware.

@hbwh19 Жыл бұрын

To bad. Anyway, great project. Looking forward to seeing it in fully working order.

@Peter_A1466 Жыл бұрын

Was going to ask the same thing 😃

@t3ddi Жыл бұрын

I just love seeing you build stuff and the way you troubleshoot and fix things along the way. You also have such a great sense of humor. Can you perhaps show how you design stuff like this? I would love to learn more about the design process.

@MarkEichin Жыл бұрын

Very educational (I did not see the half-wave problem coming, it sounded clever at the time!) but also the installation of the adhesive heaters and insulation was *very* satisfying, no wrinkles or alignment problems, that takes a lot of care :-)

@deekman78 Жыл бұрын

The lack of load switching due to no zero crossing (DC loads) has bit me more than once. It's comforting to see someone else make that mistake. :D

@PTEC3D Жыл бұрын

Very cool! Err warm! One thing with SSRs I've found is that they have a non-negligible leakage current - enough to trip RCD breakers if you think there's no voltage.... Personal experience..... 🤣

@illusivec Жыл бұрын

Wow man this thing is huge. Good job mate! However, I doubt your idea of only heating 1 quadrant at a time will work. You're pumping heat into aluminum. One of the best heat conducting materials out there. I'd be surprised if by the time active quadrant gets to 60C, the other quadrants wouldn't reach 50C+

@thegeek3295 Жыл бұрын

Its looking so good! Build quality is exceptional. Well done Ivan. Keep going it will to be great..

@graealex Жыл бұрын

Maybe this is a situation where instead of using the cheap Chinese SSRs that fail closed, you should use one with built-in protection. Also not a big fan of the in-line rectifier diodes under heat shrink. They could get quite hot. And I'd generally keep to the European color coding for mains cabling. Particularly for PE, it is compulsory. Colors are blue for neutral, brown, black and grey for live, and green-yellow for PE. And I personally feel like the printer should have it's own GFCI. For PE you should use a multimeter, and check that resistance between metal parts and the PE in the power cord is always well below one Ohm. I would also wire the heating in a way that it is failsafe. So even when the control board gets stuck with the PWM, or an SSR fails closed, the bed should never reach destructive temperatures (or blow fuses). Otherwise I wouldn't let it print unattended.

@ivanmirandawastaken Жыл бұрын

I agree basically with all that you said. I didn't have the proper wiring at hand at the moment so I went with what was going to work but it will be changed before putting the machine into production but not because color coding (which is important, I'm not dismissing that) but because the gauge is the incorrect one in every single cable in there. It will barely work for testing but it doesn't have the safety margin required. This is a machine that I'm designing and building along the way so mistakes and improvisation are a part of the process and once the video is uploaded a source of knowledge as I also learn from the comments 👊

@graealex Жыл бұрын

@@ivanmirandawastaken My biggest fear here is that the max power is well above the power required to sustain temperature. If the control board and thermal fuse fails, and the heating keeps going, it will eventually heat up the metal frame to a point that your 3D printed parts will melt. So the quality of the thermal fuse is really important, and I'd test that behavior. I personally would try if wiring two heating mats in series gives you already enough power for sustained printing. Or even better, use heating mats that have PTC built-in. Although not sure if they exist in the required temperature range. Water beds use them for example, as overheating would be quite catastrophic.

@MrBlakBunny Жыл бұрын

SO whats after this, a print in place tank? would actually love to see an updated mini-tank build :)

@mattdog01 Жыл бұрын

Blowing fuses are a sign of a good time. Great job Ivan.

@MCsCreations Жыл бұрын

Brilliant, Ivan! Fantastic work!!! 😃 Looking forward to the next part! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

@TheNextDecade Жыл бұрын

I'm in love with this build! Excited to see you throw the extruder on this mean machine.

@maciekgaa5215 Жыл бұрын

So underrated. AMAZING video

@MiriadCalibrumAstar Жыл бұрын

hes spanish right? quite rare seeing someone from this country do this kind of content, finally someone doing good content. Mucho cariño desde españa, sigue creciendo!

@Smuli85 Жыл бұрын

You can get thermal fuses lower temperature. Correct way to connect wire is crimp connection.

@alanturing8382 Жыл бұрын

One thing to consider would be a layer of insulation on top of the bed. You could cut it anyway you want. This has helped me get heated beds to temp faster, and you could even have pieces of insulation over beds you are not heating to protect the glass and aluminium from conducting heat away from the 1 quadrant you are using as fast.

@olekaarvaag9405 Жыл бұрын

Is a three minute warmup phase a big deal though? With printing on this scale it would seem pretty insignificant compared to the time of the actual print. How long does it take on a typical printer? I have never owned a 3d printer so I'm not keyed in on what really matters and what doesn't.

@alanturing8382 Жыл бұрын

@@olekaarvaag9405 on small beds that run 12v without an enclosure, it can take mine almost ten minutes. He is using engine block heaters, so they are probably about 230v. So for him,vit is less about heat up time and more about energy consumption.

@loutorres0608 Жыл бұрын

Perfect solution for a large scale printer. Nice work Ivan!

@makers_lab Жыл бұрын

I'd FLIR the bed to see how uniform the heating is, and if possible, adding a low res thermal camera sensor such as an MLX90640 might prove useful.

@newmonengineering Жыл бұрын

Plug 2 heaters in one outlet and 2 in a separate fused outlet and you shouldn't have any issues. You will probably need at least one more anyway for the extrusion heater. I would look around the house and map out outlets and which fuses they are on so you can divide up the power properly. Either that or install some dedicated larger current separate circuit breakers and run appropriately large wires.

@Helveteshit Жыл бұрын

Considering that he is in EU(Oulet), he doesn't even need to do that. Just a three phase socket that share the same ground will suffice.

@MisterMakerNL Жыл бұрын

Tüv says no. You are not allowed to mix fuses a you can do some nasty accidents by doing so.

@BrainSlugs83 Жыл бұрын

He's not in a house though, right? It's like a rented storage unit or something I thought.

@newmonengineering Жыл бұрын

@@MisterMakerNL yes you can, that is like saying you can't run 2 heaters on 2 different outlets you absolutely can run them on separate outlets.

@MrPistolero911 Жыл бұрын

assuming you are printing with PLA you should consider the parts under the heating bed. it will deform over time. but if not, great job buddy!

@8BitLife69 Жыл бұрын

Yea, hopefully he's not printing all his printer parts in PLA. They ALL should be ABS.

@blake_schwanke Жыл бұрын

You would be surprised what pla can take. I certainly was on an all pla printer I made.

@pauhull Жыл бұрын

@@8BitLife69 abs is shit

@MrPistolero911 Жыл бұрын

@@blake_schwanke I had some prints got deformed just by sitting in a room for few days. and it wasnt that hot. and since then i stopped using pla all together. i also helped a friend for her art instillation, and hers was deformed as well from keeping it with her for just 3 days before the exhibition. i just dont want to take the risk, even tho i tried few different PLA brands.

@blake_schwanke Жыл бұрын

@@MrPistolero911 Interesting. I do agree abs is great if you've got a capable machine. 90 percent of what I print is abs on my voron.

@coreymac2381 Жыл бұрын

I can’t wait to see what you are going to print on that huge printer.

@yngndrw. Жыл бұрын

It looks like you could have used your 3 phase supply for the heaters, just wire them up as single phase heaters and spread them across the different phases. You could for example have: L1 - 2x bed heaters L2 - 1x bed heater + motors L3 = 1x bed heater + hot end heater I wouldn't have soldered the heater wires together given their ratings - I'd have used a butt-crimp for the wire-to-wire joints and ring-crimps for the wire-to-SSR joints. I'm not convinced that the quadrant system will work properly as the aluminium plate will act as a heat spreader. I think it would have been more effective to have four separate aluminium plates with a small gap between them.

@darekmistrz4364 Жыл бұрын

not using 3-phase is a big mistake. You can always combine 3phase into 1phase in build like this, but once you decide to go 1 phase, there is recreating half of wiring.

@jonathanjones7319 Жыл бұрын

Love your videos. Always well put together and informative. Thank you. Is everything designed by you?

@marc_orso7058 Жыл бұрын

cada vez que veo un video tuyo quedo alucinado, creas maravillas.

@Peter_A1466 Жыл бұрын

(Shouting at screen:) You are not supposed to solder those thermal fuses. You crimp them! (And they do exist for low values)

@ivanmirandawastaken Жыл бұрын

I wish I would have heard you tbh. I haven't been able to find them in lower values but it makes sense. I'll look harder next time.

@Peter_A1466 Жыл бұрын

@@ivanmirandawastaken Sefuse goes as low as 73°C in the datasheet I just googled. (Sefuse datasheet)

@3DPrinterAcademy Жыл бұрын

I think this is your best series yet!

@MrHeHim Жыл бұрын

Propane(gas) water heater and run the water channels under the bed 😅 you can use an adjustable thermostat (similar to one like in a car) to regulate the flow and control temperature. Or just use that to blow warm air (indirectly) at the bed to warm it up and use electric to keep/stabilize the temperature.

@dark88reaper78 Жыл бұрын

Just a reminder that those Power outlets are not rated for continuous 16A but rather 10A. 16A is only for a short while. Ive seen many electric car chargers (and forklift chargers in industrial enviroments) where the whole socket burned out and nearly set the building on fire. would suggest the blue CEE 16A 1 Phase for such applications. Those also have the benefit, that you always have the same polarity (N+L) on your wiring.

@ivanmirandawastaken Жыл бұрын

This will very briefly use that much power, once heated it doesn't get to half a Kw. Either way good to know, thanks!

@tobins6800 Жыл бұрын

For initial heating, what about heating each quadrant to a temp over 60, say 65-70, then switch to another quadrant, and maintain the 60 as the other warms up, pausing the warming only long enough to get the maintenance temp. Or, cycle the warming sections, maybe 2 at a time, might take a bit longer, but, should allow for the draw needed, also, gives time for heat soak.

@hotshot7000 Жыл бұрын

Dude that's incredible! I've been following you for quite some time now and you inspire me to one day build my own 3D Printer!...... Buuuuut for now I'll leave that up to you haha, looking forward to the next stage!

@AndersJackson Жыл бұрын

Great video as usual. 🙂 When heating up, you could start one or two at a time, so then it will not overload your switches.

@bradley3549 Жыл бұрын

Re: Thermal Fuses. 1. Better to crimp them rather than solder, probably for obvious reasons. 2. For this application, a better solution probably would be a surface mount resettable thermal switch. Similar to what is used on say a tea kettle or electric griddle. You can get them in lower ratings and they use spade connectors so no soldering to them is required. And they can be screwed to the bottom of your aluminum build plate with a small dab of thermal paste.

@SteveSiegelin Жыл бұрын

Now you have a giant centerpiece shop heater 🤣... I cannot wait to see the first print! What we have seen you accomplish with little printers will pale in comparison to this monster!

@rojitorroj9584 Жыл бұрын

Impresionante como siempre. Eres el puto amo

@sgsax Жыл бұрын

Gonna need a really big glue stick for that bed... This thing is shaping up really nicely. I'm looking forward to a couple years down this line where you'll use this to make an even bigger printer. Thanks for sharing!

@olekaarvaag9405 Жыл бұрын

I'm new to this project. It looks amazing so far. The attention to details and making it "clean" is on point. Dumb question; how are the points removed? Does it just lift off the glass with a scraper/spatula? I seem to remember people using gluestick or some other adhesive on glass, but that might just be a thing of the past now. And how do you switch the heat fuse if it is triggered? I look forward to see this become closer and closer to being finished.

@steve_weinrich Жыл бұрын

Very nice. You should consider testing components, wiring, connections, etc. in isolation before attaching to the circuit board.

@PoignantPirate Жыл бұрын

Disregard: refreshed the page and now see that someone already mentioned this. Just a note about the power usage: you may have more breathing room than you think. Your original design with the 1/2 wave rectifier would have effectively been a 50% duty cycle for each heater, so if you did your original math right you might be able to reduce the PWM cycle even further and still hit the desired performance levels. Also, if you have the ability to set the PWM timings on the relays separately, you could have them running at 50% duty cycle and implement your 1/2 wave by setting the PWM timings on two heaters to be offset by a cycle. (so that two heaters are on and two are off at any given moment.)

@dgoddard Жыл бұрын

You are too awesome! I have no clue why you don't have a million subs.

@shaunmorrissey7313 Жыл бұрын

This is the first 3D printer I've seen that scares the crap out of me

@janickfricko6451 Жыл бұрын

happy to see the video:D i hope you do more 3d printers in future like an overengineered one =)

@buckh6233 Жыл бұрын

This feels like a good candidate for multiple extruders. Could do a large nozzle paired with a small, or dual materials, or run 2 prints at the same time. assuming control works out.

@MiguelGPerez-lt9lk Жыл бұрын

Muy chulo lo que esta haciendo....

@BLBlackDragon Жыл бұрын

And Ivan let's the magic smoke escape. At least you were able to compensate without changing boards. The quadrant control on the bed is a good feature. Not sure I would have thought of that. This thing is moving along nicely. Now for a dual extruder on a 1mm nozzle. ;)

@boogalooman Жыл бұрын

so when do you come out with your own line of giant flex plates for your giant printers? love the content, keep up the great work.

@paulladdie1026 Жыл бұрын

Ivan, Your a crazy genius 🙂

@Nathan69 Жыл бұрын

Omg YES IV BEEN WAITING FOR THIS

@joegroom3195 Жыл бұрын

I've never thought about the diode to split the power requirement. Maybe could have joined 2 heaters together on a single ssr and swapped polarity on one of the diodes to make it work, but you would have lost the ability to control all 4 heaters independently. Nice build! Can't wait to see it finished!

@darekmistrz4364 Жыл бұрын

He should have went with 3-phase power

@r3v3rs3r Жыл бұрын

Now I'm waiting for a Miranda Armada since we already have a tank.... A battle ship would be interesting! 🤔

@willierants5880 Жыл бұрын

This printer is a monster!

@x35gaming Жыл бұрын

You should try wiring the bed in series-parallel (2 parallel banks of heaters in series).

@havasss Жыл бұрын

I'm always wondering why ppl use aluminum bed under a glass instead of using only the glass. Great work, again!

@OliverKrystal Жыл бұрын

Also, even putting glass doors and top would help preserve heat and keep the amp draw down.

@dennisfahey2379 Жыл бұрын

Great video. I saw those SSR's and knew you had an issue immediately. Interesting solution though. Will you ever do a plasma cutter project or a waterjet?

@M4XC4V413R4 Жыл бұрын

I would make even more heating zones tbh, I would probably put one of those (or a bit smaller) on the center, and then a bunch of smaller ones around it that I could turn on however I wanted. Most of the prints will always use the center one no matter what and then I could just turn on smaller ones where the bigger prints touched.

@first-thoughtgiver-of-will2456 Жыл бұрын

Awesome project! I wonder if you can place a 3D printed tuned mass dampener on those cross cable tensioners. Maybe even tie in with Klipper and use an accelerometer to parametrically set the tuned mass dampeners?

@sylvainlathuy2702 Жыл бұрын

I built myself a 450x450 mm bed heated by 12 100x150 pads, and I used diodes to divide the power by 2 (checkered-pattern). I have absolutely no issue using 1 SSR because both directions are connected to the same SSR. So, If you had just paired the pads with opposite flow directions, you could have kept the diodes and lower the current peaks this way... :p

@temyraverdana6421 Жыл бұрын

Ingenious, what else! Thanks

@SidneyCritic Жыл бұрын

You put a metal clamp, ie, maybe an alligator clip, on the lead of the thermal fuse to stop the heat getting to the body of the TF when you solder it.

@ledfed1912 Жыл бұрын

You are amazing man.

@philcopain56 Жыл бұрын

Crazy and Inspiring ;) As uusal Amazing work !!

@dasauto7346 Жыл бұрын

Any concern over the aluminum bed expanding when hot? That's a HUUUUGE slab of aluminum!

@ivanmirandawastaken Жыл бұрын

This bed is as wide and only twice as long as my previous build and that's never been a problem.

@dasauto7346 Жыл бұрын

@@ivanmirandawastaken sweet, I can't wait to see what extruders going on there!

@mirag3304 Жыл бұрын

Is there any chance that the glass part of the bed could crack/break/shatter when only using 1 heating pad because of the temperature difference with the rest of the glass?

@davidrenaud736 Жыл бұрын

Doing a great job

@EmmittBrownBTTF1 Жыл бұрын

There is a type of thermal switch that doesn't kill itself when tripped, and close when they cool off - some are used in ovens Fischer&Pykel use 190C tl-60 switches in Elba ovens good for 3.6kW.

@jacquesb5248 Жыл бұрын

looking forward to the first print! a massive benji?

@LudwigRuderstaller Жыл бұрын

you should limit the max power of the mates in either way. you dont want your buildplate to heat up that fast. even on smaller 300/400/500mm printers the max power is limited to 60% to give the buildplate time to expand and soak in the heat.

@Hobypyrocom Жыл бұрын

heating only 1/4 of the heated bed, wouldnt that produce problems? it will warp the frame and might stress the glass...

@ivanmirandawastaken Жыл бұрын

We'll find out I guess

@Hobypyrocom Жыл бұрын

@@ivanmirandawastaken 😂👍 hope everything will go just fine, good luck...

@buildersmark Жыл бұрын

Magic Blue Smoke!!

@bluelive23 Жыл бұрын

Best to combine higher power wires using wago connectors or somesuch instead of soldering.

@christophercandiotes3d889 Жыл бұрын

for the resin gears just mix a small amount of flexible resin with your normal resin to make it bit less brittle

@Anfieldhero8 Жыл бұрын

Love this work, i bought the cnc machine files a while back. And it's closed to finished now, cant wait! This will be the next project for sure. Are u going to make the files available? :-) Love from Norway amigo!

@guillermocarpio5501 Жыл бұрын

U could try to use a vacuum bed for Part holding instead of the heated bed

@RomanoPRODUCTION Жыл бұрын

Gracias Ivanito :)

@leoneventicinque6731 Жыл бұрын

I wait with great curiosity to see which system will be used to obtain the leveling of the print bed ...

@8BitLife69 Жыл бұрын

Boy is that thing gonna warp like crazy...

@kult519 Жыл бұрын

Thanks bro..

@CityPlannerPlaysChair Жыл бұрын

Can't wait for the first round of lifesized prints to come off this

@misan2006 Жыл бұрын

A more straightforward way to split the power among two heaters is to wire them in series.

@ivanmirandawastaken Жыл бұрын

How do you turn them on individually when connected in series?

@superowl91 Жыл бұрын

will the insulation not compress under the weight of your prints and ruin your print height/levelling?

@christianguzek7431 Жыл бұрын

PE should be green-yellow! I agree with Alexander Gräf.

@oscaranderson1822 Жыл бұрын

That is a outstanding printer that you are making. When you get it done you can print a big wheel for adults... Do you ever sell the big printers that you make?

@a-aron2276 Жыл бұрын

Hi Ivan, quite impressed with your work. Just a thought for the bed heating, cut a removable insulation pad for the top too so you can heat that massive area faster with less power. I'm not familiar with 3d printing so I don't know if that's running throughout the build(i hope not) but if you're running that in a room, do your best to recapture the heat, that could be a bonkers amount of money to run.

@TheTetrapod Жыл бұрын

Typically you have to run the heated bed for the duration of the print, or else the glass contracting is liable to cause parts to detach.