Let me know if the 280 is similar, it should be. I’d check the shift fork and rail for 5th/reverse for damage. That’s usually the problem when you can’t get into a specific gear. Other than that make sure none of the gears and synchros are missing teeth. Replace all the bearings and seal and you’ll be good to go.

Thank you sir! Every time I’ve run into that situation it was because either the transmission wasn’t in neutral or it the puller was pushing on the input shaft on an angle. Try to re orient the 3 jaw puller and make sure it’s in neutral and try again. If you force it you can bend the main shift shaft-I’ve done that before. If all else fails make sure you have the plug that holds the detent removed (the thing I pull out with a wood screw).

@‘85 Garage you were right with the neutral position, moved her from vertical to horizontal and was able to get the forks to move 😉, she's apart and digging into the gear cluster tomorrow 🤟 your doing awesome work man!

Thank you. Which dowel are you talking about?

Thanks. You can convert a rwd g260 to a ix g260 by swapping the back half of an ix unit over to the rwd bellhousing along with the output flange. The bellhousing can’t be from an eta though. Replace the bearings and shim it up for the proper clearances and you’ll be good.

Thank you. No, that transmission is different. It’s a ZF S6. I don’t have any information on rebuilding that one yet.

Dealer and fcpeuro

What’s most likely going to happened is the case will come apart but right before it splits completely it’s going to get hung up on the main shift rod. You can keep applying pressure to the pulling tool but the main shift rod will bend. You could try putting a punch through the end of the hole on the shift right on the back of the transmission and forcing it out of reverse.

Thanks! The length of the arms is about 9-10”. It’s just the 3 piece 3-jaw puller set from harbor freight but I bolted the shorter legs to the longest legged set that comes with the set. www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-3-piece-63953.html

It’s not the best but it works, the BMW tool is rigid and just slightly wider than the rear case.

@@85garage You rock! I saw another guy use chain link to extend the jaws, but this seems a bit less effort. Thanks again!

Thanks, as far as replacement parts go I’ve only had luck getting them from the dealer. The bearings are a uncommon size and I haven’t been able to find them aftermarket. If you find some from somewhere other than straight from bmw let me know!

@@85garage thanks for your help, if dealer is the only option that might be a project I put off for a bit. I'm not currently having any issues with my setup, just curious in future proofing as I start to push more power. I'm aware of the syncros but other than that, what are common points of failures on these trannys

@@kanyeeast9859 shift forks (they bend/break and wear our) and synchros. Bearings make noise but generally don’t cause any issues besides that.

Most likely a bent or broken shift fork. That’s a pretty common issue with these. If it’s not a fork it’s a worn synchro on those gears.

@@85garage yeah ill have to pull it apart and see, thanks for the videos they will definitely be a huge help when i get to fixing it :)

Yes you can replace it but you’ll need to fully disassemble

By any chance do you know if there is a part number for that shift selector rod or will k have to get one from another one from the junk or something

@@Jayjay-ew7rq check out realoem.com with your VIN

If you’re referring to the springs under the detent ball plate it’s 1-2, 3-4, 5-R. This is reading left to right if you were facing the back of the transmission at the output shaft. Should be the same for a 250.

​@@85garage I'm not sure. I mean which spring is causing the actual shifter left/right slop in neutral, and in gear left/right slop. My reverse gear has spring, and my 5th gear has spring (sticks sometimes), but in neutral i can tell some springs are really worn or broken. The clockwise and counterclockwise selector shaft movement. Shifter linkage and bushings are new, so I know it's coming inside the trans. Thanks for the reply. There is literally no info online for getrags.

@@alexharitos4495 I’d check two things before you pull it apart: the detend plug on the side of the case near the bellhousing (The one I remove with a flat head screwdriver and then pull the plunger out with a screw). Check the condition of the spring and the plunger head for wear. Then check the spring in the rear of the case that is held in by a screw plug. Check the spring and plunger for wear. Besides that you’d have to pull the case halves apart and check the mechanism in the back that you see me remove in my video when I replace the output shaft bearing.

This is assuming it’s all the same for a 250

​@@85garage Yea thats what I'm going to do, go through all the springs accessible from outside the casing and see where shifter starts to slop. Thanks

Straight from the dealer. Didn’t replace synchros in this vid

Have u ever seen ones with bad synchros parts from the dealer seams ro be very expensive like £800

@@ashboi909 I have, luckily I had a spare trans with known good synchros that I just put new bearings in. Yeah, the dealer synchros are super expensive. I haven’t found a source for aftermarket yet.

@@85garage can u maybe list the part numbers theres a fair amount of parts so it seams, over here on the uk i can buy a box for about £200 but the parts for bearings at either end are atleast £200