Remember that designing something that is supposed to be produced in literally thousands pr day vs something that you can 3D print and assemble yourself are two completely different tasks of engineering with wildly different challenges.

​@@mr_gerber Yes, I agree with your point. However, only to the extent of cheaper tools where every dollar counts. Manufacturers should spend their full budget on designing function over form. Nonetheless, once you get into more permanent advertised tools that will last the life of your shop; there would be no reason Manufacturers couldn't get hard plastic formed/injected exterior elements. If hand power tool designers/producers have been developing cheaper, better looking tools for longer; there is no reason desk tools couldn't look great as well.

Little John finally saved enough money selling bars of jelly to buy his first workshop, only to find out it was the size of a shoebox. Let's see how he turns this 0.72 sq ft coffin into a fully function workshop. First, he barrowed a 3D printer from his aunt and used eco-friendly recyclable filament to print a durable shell for the machine components and pressed industrial grade heat set inserts in to fasten the parts together. He then filled it the shell with self healing roman concrete - durable for then thousand years.

actually covering the top in tape seems like a good idea, though if it's flat I'd use dollar store cutting board for that textured finish.

@@satibel that's not bad, I was thinking of it being clear so you could see if it was filled, but you could peal it off and put the boards on after for the texture if you wanted.

I'm sure when he does, it'll be filled with concrete :)

yeah I found most stores add 3rd party sellers to their website, because it's a great way to get money, it's basically dropshipping with fewer steps on their part.

And buy tips specifically made for heat sets, they come in a set of 5 for different sizes and cost like what, 5 bucks on Aliexpress? So he doesn't have to lay the soldering iron flat like that and risk melting the prints.

Buy the ones with the helical knurled bits rather than straight. They are designed for 3D printing and stay in way better.

I find that heat set inserts aren't all that great, the vast majority of the time you're better served by a hex recess for a nut, or just modeled thread depending on if it's supposed to come apart or not. it's rare that you can't afford the 2-3mm extra of a captive nut they do look good though

@@satibel 100%. I usually redesign so I can use a nut. If I can't, PET-CF takes a thread well - especially anything M4 and above and when you only need to fasten once. But heat inserts can be fine - especially if they are pulled in and not pulled out if you see what I mean.

@@MrJofArnold yeah if you have to use heat set, it's way better to insert from the outside, and optionally add a cap if you want to hide the screw (a good tip is to use adhesive rubber feet, though imo accessible screws are better.) Self tapping screws are a good candidate too. But another design I like if you don't need as much strength is rail and ball detent (though if you have a flexible plastic you can just use a flexure detent For a ball detent if you have space you can use a regular spring, but if you don't, use either a wedge, or one I like is simply a spring steel blade, a great source of that is windshield wipers. (Basically what you do is make a slot where the blade goes and csg subtract the ball with 1/4th-1/3rd out, and add a path to insert the ball and a cap) For ball and spring you do the same for the ball, but use a box subtract the widh of the spring and add a cylinder on the non ball end to secure the spring and a cylinder and box cut along the diagonal for the wedge

In a previous video he used the side/bottom of a battery powered sander.