I love seeing people use the cones of calibration. I was apart of it's development and think Tableflip is the best. Thanks for sharing your experience

Possibly the best 3D printing channel around.

My only piece of advice is to pin the legs to the torso. Those files have the legs mount to the torso with a ball joint which provides ZERO structural support to the model's 7kg torso. I had one of my legs completely fall off before drilling some holes for dowel rods. Also, I printed mine with chitubox and the auto-support worked amazingly..... when set to 70% density. Any lower is too few, any more causes the supports to merge.

Love this series! I'm printing and supporting just a warhound, i can imagine the pain with a Warlord!!!!!! Stay positive and keep up the amazing work!

Day 1 of asking for a Tsons stomping on toasters diorama

Dude! recently printed resin can be brittle, even the ABS one, I usually clean the piece with the supports and the clip them with a clipper, its slower and much less satisfying, but man, you save A LOT of prints

I am currently printing this titan, and decided to not scale down (mostly becasue i didnt know). So now im going to have a massive titan. Most of the body frame is done in PLA, save for the feet to give it some weight. The armor and weapons are resin.

That cowl snap looks perfect placement for a laser burn scar to save the piece and give the model character. It even looks like a failed head shot. 6:38

"If you know, you know." wish I knew lol

I’m printing mine it’s been a month and half. All armor and small parts like hydraulic are resins the rest FDM at super detail setting. Each part are like 1,2-3 day prints

I swapped to ABS like resin for most of my minis. Haven't looked back.

Many of the reasons described above is why I'm currently in the process of printing my Warlord titan in PLA on FDM. The prints take longer, yes it's more annoying, but it is slightly cheaper than the resin approach (especially with bulk discounts on PLA and PETG recently) you could theoretically print it for as low as $60, but expect to pay more around $100-120 (at least you don't spend an additional $10-20 on gloves, IPA, etc) PLA is about as light as the resin all things told (it's a significantly lighter but requires more support, so it ends up being only slightly lighter) however, it is far more durable, and if done right, you can (I have tested and proven this) grab one of the pieces, jump up and then proceed to slam down a failed print, and all you end up with is a sizeable dent or scratch depending on where it lands. I'm sure on the pieces where it's thinnest it will probably still crack, however it will do so because of a large amount of force, enough that would easily break/shatter either the FW resin or 3D printed resin, but in most cases it will be more than durable. On top of that, easily magnetized, cheaper, etc. The only reason I haven't finished printing my Warlord back in February is because I ran into a 3D printing slump and only occasionally print small things. I'll get around to finishing the Warlord eventually ;)

I won't lie it took me days of printing to get all the pieces printed and assembled

Thanks to your videos I have been poking around trying to find the stls for these amazing giant models, I am still a noob at hunting though, and have had no luck finding this Warlord model, only a smaller scale one with less detail. Love your work, hopefully an Imperator is in the future!

Already printed this warlord titan. Took me almost two month to support it and print it. The process to empty the model, add support, test them in UV Tools, correct them... was a pain... But I kept all my lychee project files.

angle things. too many of those fails were cos the plates were with too many horizontal lines. The shear force will always do this, just rotate them 20 degrees and this will work better

I'm into 3d printing myself since january, dont get why you have so much trouble with the supports, printing that Warlord Titan myself atm (still missing ~10-15 parts currently). I use the Anycube Photon Workshop software , load model, click scale to 90% , click hollow (no internal supports), click "generate supports" and then i'm done. (1-1.5 min work depending if i need to add punctures , always at least add 2 , one for the resin to go through one for it to suck air in, this also place them in a way that they are not visible when displaying your model, and in a way that the resin can drip of when already printing) The automatic supports from anycube photon workshop worked perfect for me in all but one instance, were i needed to reprint a piece with medium instead of my light supports. (even reduced the auto generated support to >50° angles). In comparison I would say i have 50% less supports then what I see in your Video, especially the massive support parts under the cowl could be the reason why it broke in the first place. since i hollow all of my parts (and puncture most of them so i can get rid of internal resin), I use way way less resin then your 10kg I guess (seems to end up to about 5kg). Maybe you should give the Anycube software a try , I know it lacks many many many features, but to be honest, who cares if the print result still is perfect in 98% for a fraktion of the work ? (you will never get 100% , so who cares if you made the error or the automatic calculations?) Took me around 3h to support all files this way and most time was wasted for the big pieces that needed to be rotated dozens of times before they "fit" onto my plate. Also my Titan will be way lighter and there is less risk of it collapsing under its own weight this way (just a thought?). I'm using a Anycube Photon D2 (DLP Printer), printing the parts for about ~ a month now , i can at least see the finish line right now, yeay! Info for everyone with "smaller" printer ( 131 x 73 x 165mm ): 4 Parts were to big for that printer and I needed to cut them, but the result was surprisingly nice and i could print both half's in one go everytime (less time wasted). For resin i switched to "clear" transparent water washable resins, easier to work with water for me and transparent because it makes it WAY easier to weld parts together which were to big for my printer (this way the resin will also be cured in the inside of the piece and not only the edges, which results in a extreme stable weld). just , dip both ends a millimeter in the vat when finished and then weld them under an UV lamp, use sandpaper to remove overlapping resin (place the cut strategically on a place were the sanding step is no problem later! ) Also another tip for everyone out there with failed prints, always check your zero, set my zero before adding a foil onto my glass , this f*** my prints :D Hope anyone finds any of my tips helpfull

So, if you don’t know, I guess it doesn’t really matter if model is taken down or not, since you can’t get it either way.

I have a similar end goal of printing all the titans. I've used auto supports to no real problems now that exposure is good(lychee normal medium) but I'm using a fdm to do the skeleton as fdm is reliably more durable than resin. I started with warhound then went big with the warmaster with according to blender sits at 30in tall. Currently struggling with removing fdm supports from the center body cube and debating on using a heat gun to loosin things up

Ohhh mate, I am nearly finished mine, just waiting on... you guessed it. more resin!

Now you have spare parts for your Chaos Titian bases!

My first ever PLA was Sunlu, and i thought I was useless at 3D printing. I burnt a whole kilo testing and calibrating. On a whim, I tried eSun and immediately my prints stopped failing, glossing and randomly over-extruding. I wont use Sunlu products again.

love your work and dedication to the hobby, am also printing a Warhound, Reaver and Warbringer all at the same time

the reaver was taken down so no updates for me still a good model will print off soon still undecided on what titan legion i am going to paint im currently painting a alpha legion army but i dont like yellow so i might have to make up my own

May Vashtorr guide your fabricators Cousin.

2500 shovel propelled insane boys or a titan …

I feel your pain BB, I’m about to start experimenting with adding Tenacious from Syria tech (misspelled) in hopes of less fragile parts. Love the Discord group

Dunk your freshly cleaned parts in hot water to remove the supports. Makes it a lot easier.

Why would you reprint a snaped part? You can just pin glue it back together

Are you sure that all the fails you get are not from a temperature problem ? Since I've been using OPR printing settings for everything I print (even a Gladiator tank) I never have any fails. Sometimes, some delamination or loss of details but always on invisible parts. I've also been using a heating pad that I stuck on the print cover and it allows me to print below 20°C in the room and not get fails.

yup yup. my brother bought me abs resin and omg i never want to go to any other brand. ive dropped some ExtraGuy titan fall models and they didnt even crack. i would say this to help boost your morale, this is more like a learning journey. i was going to print a titan after i moved but now i know i need to make sure i get the right resin. i only know this now because of you. so PRINT, PRINT TILL THERES NO TOMORROW AND MAKE THE RESIN GOD HAPPY! RESIN FOR THE RESIN GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sunlu high toughness resin mixed with standard resin at 25%/75% ration has worked well for me in toughness to price.

hell yeah ❤️❤️ loving this Titan Series!

i use sunlu because its so cheap and only use abs like with 10% - 15% syraya tech tenacious as an additive and the amount of minis that have fallen from my shelf onto hard tile floor that have been saved is a god send. the will snap in the glue points but that's the weakest part

Why did all the parts need to be scaled down?

I'm printing my warbringer it's around the same size and mass with 90% auto support and it has come out pretty well but i am using a Saturn2 and my longest print was 12hr

dam it been so tempted to start this think I'm going to have to take the leap when next resin arrives ... just ordered 10kg more

you should check out a the resins by resione, printed in their anti-impact for example this thing would be nearly indestructable! even throwing it or stepping on it wouldn't break it!

Why do you need to scale to 90%? Seriously with the amount of are spending on resin and time but really want to do this it is probably worth buying a bigger printer to print it at 100%

Can't wait to see you paint these bad boys up

For Exposure settings cone of calibration are definitely not perfect either. You will need to use that old XP1 exposure test too to dial it in and see if things are exposed enough. I tried printing some Necron destroyers off and the parts and supports broke like fuck and were either under or over exposed until I dialed them in more. It's annoying but has to be done haha.

Chad prints my guy. Keep on trucking!

*Praise to the cube!*

Mmm the tears help the prints work

Been watching your titan series and love the content. I’ve been doing my own legio mortis maniple and I’m a few titans in. Next is the warlord 😁

When I tried the Cones of Calibration, both sides were failing--not sure what to do with that result.

I’ve read about people blending a little bit of ABS resin into their Standard resin to alleviate the brittleness, thoughts?

There is some stuff you can add to your resin to make it more flexible.

Do not stop

I think that's the same model I've got, but... Why the 90% rescale? Why isn't it to-scale? How wide should the toes be, for example?

any hints?

Thank you for not sharing biggest fight protecting the creator/uploader

You’re doing great dude

What is that purple liquid you are using to wash the miniatures? I am getting sick of the Isopropyl smell....

Does anyone have the STL file for it ? I only found Warhound titan :c

I feel like FDM print is how I am going to print something like this.

Magnus recommended using Sunlu Standard, didn't he? When I've been left with a resin whose properties I don't like, I've used up what's left by mixing it in with a known good resin at roughly a 1:3 or 1:4 ratio. It's not enough to significantly spoil the good resin's characteristics and you're not wasting half a bottle of the lesser stuff. I've done this with Elegoo Std + ABS, ZMud + Elegoo ABS, Sunlu Std + ABS and Anycubic ABS + Sunlu ABS (That last one was pure lazyness as I was happy with the Sunlu and couldn't be bothered to run calibration on the Anycubic.)

im so lazy my printer has been bang on out the box.

Going to print mine?

before assembling the model consider re-enforcing the spine and limbs with something sturdy, like a metal rod. That resin is touted as this super amazing resin by a few youtubers, but I've found it to be super brittle and not worth my time.

yeah, warlord titan is cool and stuff, but have you seen that full size warmaster titan stl with print examples?)))

I need to know the name of the files 😭 please...

My goal is to print a 10-foot model one day with FDM. Why 10 feet? If it was 11 I would need a permit to put it outside here.

Would you ever sell 3d printed kits to build a Titan ?

Mix some Tenacious in with the standard resin.

Let me guess - you got a summons??? G-Dubs found you.

Hey, anychance I can get you to send me a message on where to get this?

I love great supports, but auto supports have never failed me.

What he said V

30-40 minutes for a space marine ?? bro just thinking a bit logically about the positioning and hitting auto supports works perfectly fine .

Love your Titan series. BTW, eco-resin is more durable, but not so brittle! Standard is a nightmare, at least for me, too much breakage =(

0:50 while this isnt hard to find...i fucking hate gate keeping

love the titans series i'm gone sub for sure. hope to see the warbringer nemesis titan

You already made a warhound. Your showing next vid at the end a Reiver Titan. 🙄

Mmmm titan 🤤

Do not use standard resin! My old warlord collapsed recently, the ankle joint sheared off. Use ABS resin and print them solid. Pin if you can as well. I am about a week into printing my second warlord and I am almost done with zero failures. I am using the same files as you it seems. If you want my files drop me a message and I'll share them with you. Using Sunlu ABS resin on a saturn 2