I REPLACED THE CAPS IN MY SCHIIT FREYA PREAMP

I REPLACED THE CAPS IN MY SCHIIT FREYA PREAMP - HERE'S HOW!

Рет қаралды 6,412

Жыл бұрын

This is how you can modify your Schiit Freya. I used Jantzen 2.2uF Superior Z Caps to replace the existing WIMA coupling capacitors. The sound review is forthcoming. Not too hard of a mod, but not for the faint of heart.

Пікірлер: 41

@jeremyr722 Жыл бұрын

Holy cow, I so glad you’re still here! Even though I’m a subscriber the KZfaq algorithm stopped recommending your videos. I literally typed in 6am and it didnt show you, so I had assumed you had deleted your channel. Glad to see ya!

@fts81 Жыл бұрын

Nicely done! Loved it

@badd99 Жыл бұрын

I did this with the VCAP ODAM and my god what an improvement. VCAP ODAM are AMAZING caps and go neck and neck with the king monster Duelunds

@bobb.9917 Жыл бұрын

OK….I have installed my V-2 ODAM Capacitors and cut out the top-plate and installed two very cool vents. Burning in the cap now….WOW! Why was I buying tubes? 😂 I will know more in 80hrs. I have decided to replace all the resistors in the input & output tube stages signal path, as well. Hope you are coming back to post impressions.

@badd99 Жыл бұрын

I also have the vcap odams, did you do the resistor change? I am thinking of this as well.

@Artemis_Prix 4 ай бұрын

Which model and capacitance for the V-Cap ODAMs did you use? Seems like a worthy upgrade.

@kenwynn9561 Жыл бұрын

Good job. The location is slightly different on the Freya+, all four caps are grouped together between the Tube sockets and PSU electrolytics. I doubt those Jantzen caps would fit, but there are others that will, eg Mundorf EVO Oil. I used the V-Cap ODAM's, which take this Pre to the next level of performance. Bigger improvement than tube rolling. You might want to insulate the cap leads, this is essential on the ODAM's which have a metal body.

@6AM_YT Жыл бұрын

The Freya gives you more options than the +. I considered insulating the leads, but they didn't come close at all to anything to bother.

@kenwynn9561 Жыл бұрын

@@6AM_YT Yeh, the ODAM's having a metal body, means more cation is required than with most. I actually used Silicone sealant under mine as well, to act as a vibration damper. Talk about belt and braces.😀

@6AM_YT Жыл бұрын

Why these boutique cap manufactures like housing their caps in metal is beyond my understanding. I get that they look nice, but the whole thing is a potential short. It's weird.

@Artemis_Prix 4 ай бұрын

Which model and capacitance for the V-Cap ODAMs did you use? Seems like a worthy upgrade. In my case, installing the Freya plus into my system caused alot of my dynamics to be lost. I believe it's filtering out the same and essentially negating the benefits of my LPS. The hope is that updating the caps will get those dynamics back. Let's see.

@bobb.9917 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for doing this video! Is there any physical danger involved in doing this? I am considering installing two pairs of ODAM-070: 2.2uF 400Vdc V-Cap ODAM Capacitors into my Freya +. They are smaller and will physically fit in the space better.

@6AM_YT Жыл бұрын

There's always a chance of the larger can electrolytics to still retain a charge. Assuming the amp has off for a some time to allow those caps to discharge and you don't have it plugged in while working on it, you'll should be fine.

@bobb.9917 Жыл бұрын

@@6AM_YT THANKS for the response. That is what I was wondering…I can solder…but (after being a photographer for years, and using giant studio flash packs with multiple capacitors the size of coke cans, I know that capacitors are made to build up a charge and release it! 🧨), that was my concern. Really looking forward to your sound assessments after the fix! 😀

@roncruise4 Жыл бұрын

To be safe and for piece of mind, you can discharge the capacitor with a large resistor. Like a 100ohm 5W resistor.

@ellaochomogo5154 10 ай бұрын

I have 3 of these preamps. They all have a problem. Popping sounds are heard from the speakers when the volume knob is turned. Yes, from the speakers. Usually around the 12 o'clock position of the volume knob, and with many combinations of cables, sources, speakers and amps. This happened to all 3 brand-new units right out of the box. I contacted Schitt to see if there is a defect with these and all I ever got from them was the runaround. They would not give me a straight answer. Anyone else experiencing this issue?

@karmasmessenger3815 5 ай бұрын

do you knoiw how to add an aux for the schiit hel-2? its really what i need to get done

@6AM_YT 5 ай бұрын

I do not. Sorry.

@bobb.9917 Жыл бұрын

One more question. Is there a "directionality" to the installation of each capacitor. I want to do a Freya + , which is slightly different than what you are doing and I want to make sure that I install them correctly.

@6AM_YT Жыл бұрын

That's a somewhat controversial question. Most non-electrolytic caps are non-polarized, which means, they're not directional. However, some people will make the case that it matters, not to basic function but to the sound quality. The idea is that, if you conceptualize a cap as a roll of tinfoil that has a lead connected to the start of the roll (the inner foil) and the end of the roll (the outer foil), that it will produce a difference in sound. All that aside, I normally just match up the direction of the writing to what was there originally and hope for the best. You don't always know which is the inner or outer foil anyway.

@bobb.9917 Жыл бұрын

@@6AM_YT hmmm…yes…as I mentioned below…I plan on using ODAM-070: 2.2uF 400Vdc V-Cap ODAM Capacitors. The guy who did it posted pics of the install on a blog…so I will go with the writing on the caps as you suggest! 👍🏼 (I would post you the link, but KZfaq will not allow that! 😞)

@kenwynn9561 Жыл бұрын

No my link failed as well.

@kenwynn9561 Жыл бұрын

@@bobb.9917 The outer foil connection is to the lowest impedance. In the Freya's case, the cathode connections of both triodes, on each output buffer tube (4 caps needed). This according to several manufacturers, helps reject interference.

@user-tn9os8qf2y 9 ай бұрын

in solid state gear at least I prefer Wima caps over most of the high end caps, tubes is a little different and I usually prefer pio types.

@klaymoon1 Жыл бұрын

Great video. How's the sound now?

@6AM_YT Жыл бұрын

I’ll post a video on that in a day or two.

@flyingjeff1956 6 ай бұрын

As an afterthought, I might have put some tubing over the leads. It's easier to figure out when you're only watching.

@roncruise4 Жыл бұрын

You need a bigger soldering tip and more power applied to the tip to sustain constant heat. Which equates to constant heat at the pad. The pad or trace will sink that heat quick. Soldering wick shouldn't be a problem with more power/heat and a larger flat soldering tip.

@6AM_YT Жыл бұрын

I'm always curious about what temps people work on PCB's with. Someone recently told me 450 degrees Fahrenheit, which seems way too low to me.

@roncruise4 Жыл бұрын

@@6AM_YT The eutectic point of typical tin/lead (60/40) solder is about ~361F. So long as you can keep the solder liquid long enough to get the job done. ~400F at the solder tip with enough power to keep it at 400F sounds about right. More heat maybe.

@6AM_YT Жыл бұрын

@@roncruise4 yeah, but everything is lead free solder now.

@samuellord8576 Жыл бұрын

Between 600-650deg F. And yes always have a beefy tip when using braid, and pre-melt some solder onto the braid. Also, your braid looked a bit too wide; the size matters. So will you share your results, or is that a secret? Best of luck!