Personally I would get a good plant fitter in for a couple of hours as that's a great machine for your land projects, when you want to turn tight corners use the arm to lift the machine while tracking round

Put a laminated general service and starting plan in the cab, so you have a checklist of what's needed to get it's going each time, then you won't have this happen again.

Try contacting utuber Stephen Cox also as he is a diesel equipment mechanic with his own channel. He lives in Texas but maybe he can give you some ideas on what to look for.

OMG. Not scrap metal. If I had the money I would but that off of you in a heartbeat. A good engine, good metal, if you download the shop manual for it, you would know how to get the hydro motor for the right side out, then get just the parts and rebuild it. I have done that to Bobcats, but would love to tackle a behemoth like that. It would be fun. If the hydro was good, it would have to be in the final drive planetary gears.

We bought an old 1970 bobcat m-700 for our homestead. Easy and cheap to fix not one computer. Just an old Wisconsin motor and eazy to find parts.

It'll likely be a track motor. They go bad from time to time but if the pumps are good the track motor isn't a biggie - the machine will probably go for years yet

First are you trying to turn with both tracks flat on the ground? Lift it up with the boom on the drive sprocket so less contacts the ground.. Also with the boom you can help push it up the hill... Depending on the pump and motor.. Some times end plates and gears get scored Letting the oil bypass every thing.. You're not going to be running production.. Maybe machine both along with the housing flat again.. Or have a certified tig welder weld the grooves and remachine.. Maybe If you're lucky.. Maybe check out Rock and Dirt magazine For equipment dismantlers... For your parts.. There are lots of dismantlers out there. Good luck

Maybe have some contact with Andrew Camarata channel on youtube. he repairs everything .

Another thing you might look for.. Maybe each side hasa bypass pressure valve.. And that side has gone bad... I've had to replace bypass valves before..

Thanks for the video. My cousin (also my neighbor) asked me to go in half on an old Ford backhoe loader. Knowing nothing about heavy machinery, I'm a little gun shy.

I hope your appointment goes well and everything is ok

Unless the piston in the ram is majorly messed up (bent, badly scored) hydraulic cylinders are fairly easy to repair. There must be test ports coming off of the various stages of the pump where you can check pressures. Start there. You might need a couple of new houses and filters and fluid and that could easily run more than $1000, but if you got it for a good price ... Maybe there is a trade school nearby that you could get some assistance from.

Andrew Camarata wood use a piece of wire and the foil from a cig. pack and say "thats how you do it ", and it would be fixed !! lol ...... I didn't see the new dog yet ?

holy shit dude do not scrap this. if ure broke just let her sit till later. money is worthless but what you got in your yard is gold. be patient. its worth fixing. hell at the price of gas now even the transport costs are worth the value of the machine. signed, fellow survivor

Once you get the cylinder replaced, you should have no problem using the boom to help pull along the excavator to where you will need it. It may not be in PERFECT working order, but you already have it....may as well use it. The track now moving well is probably a wheel motor.....and yes those will be expensive.....but doesn't render the rest of the machine inoperable.

I don't know if you mentioned it.. But a repair manuel And parts manuel might be a good place to start.. I can't imagine a diy mechanic can't fix the drives on the cheap

To bad that the tracks are not working, great rig to get that shallow well dug. nice big base 10 to 15 feet on the round down to a spring up on that hill, you wouldn't even need a pump to feed the house gravity would do all the work.

im pretty sure it's just something small... I had a problem with my 96 f250 not starting.. I throw lots of money at and and sure enough it was the smallest fix ever... h pop oil 😂😂 im hoping yours is a simple fix too... have a good one 😊

It sure is a big beautiful beast. If anyone still using these you may make good return by parting it out on Craigs list - seems the motor alone is worth a few quid.

I say if you and when you get done plumbing and the other things in the house you should consider to build a shed for your machines and trucks to give them shelter a vehicle to be shelter will last long then a vehicle setting outside just a thought but hope your ranch will be doing good

Get an owners manual.... and parts breakdown.... and schematics !!!! ( also get two "cheep" 12volt jump packs and tie them in series to jump 24vdc systems....see if that would work???)

Surplus center has great hydraulics parts and great customer service.

Metal prices are going back up better than they have in a long time. At least it looks like a Japanese Sumitomo built case and not the old Drott units. If it was a Drott the only advice I have for you is if you are running it and it stops leaking shut it down right away cause it’s out of hyd fluid. Also if it was a Drott, scrap it now. These old 9060s aren’t rare at all here back east especially up north but it you look through some of the scrap parts dealers listed in a machinery trader paper it will surprise you what you can find. We still run some old fiat allis 545 and 645 loaders and often find what we need somewhere around the country.

buy a oil pressure gauge set, best money you will spend, also you can use the arm to pull it up the hill. check the pressure on wheel motors, they have a bypass valve that sticks, check the pressure at the pump and then the wheel motor. I would hold the side up with the hoe, and set there and let it spin to get some hot oil running through it and see if the valve will free, if not you might need to rebuild the drive motor.

Buddy you need to make sure all the hydraulic piston are closed when you park it

Have it hauled to a auction. We take all of our trucks/heavy equipment to the auction. JJ Kane Auction out of northern Illinois.

Thank you! The update I was waiting for.

The joys of worn out heavy equipment. Got my ass bit with an old case excavator myself, may end up scrapping it but hopefully my hydraulic system rebuild works. You gotta be real careful with used equipment.

At the minimum you've got a nice engine there.. I hope you're keeping at least a 5 gallon bucket over the exhause stack.

You need to get some pressure gauges .. either you don't have enough poilet pressure, bad compensator, or just a bad pump that why you don't have any power.. a easy way to check a piston pump if that what's there is to pull off the drain line on the pump and measure case drain amount. If you have lots of case drain the pump is toast. But if it's in spec it's not the pump. Maybe pressure setting, bad relief valve etc..

i love watching you work you are the best take care

You can still lump that bad boy with the telescoping arm. It's inconvenient obviously and could add extra wear overtime to other components. But I would get as much use out of it as you can and then sell it. I mean you have a Bachoe, and those alone are pretty versatile. But limping it wouldn't take to long to move it around too once you get the hang of it

Hoping you will be able to get it going so it can do some work for you!

Take the small hose off going to the drive motor it's called the case drain if there's a lot of flow coming from the case drain then you have a bad drive motor

After you pulled the stump and panned the camera off to the right I noticed an amazing thing. It appears the excavator had a pup! (What do you feed an excavator puppy, anyhow? Lone Star long necks?) I'm sorry it looks like it isn't going to work out. By the way, do I need to mention that a hydraulic pinhole leak is probably what inspired the high pressure (but water, of course) cutter? Not good for fingers...

Most likely a hydronic drive motor flip them left to right see what that does if no change then it is most likely a sticky valve. We have a 942 lie here with smaller issues all I need is the little shaft that is broken.

Love your videos. Love what you are doing. Keep up the good work.

Measure the pressure at the drive motor. You will know where is the problem,the motor,or upstream.

disconnect the batteries in the machine and charge them individually

Even if the track isn't a simple fix once you have the bucket back on it will be very simple to "walk" the machine around to work in the property find a video or an equipment operator to help you with the technique but it's very simple strech the boom out at a 45° angle to where you wanna go with the bucket flat in the ground lift the broke side of the machine swing and drive the good track at the same time do it a couple times and it'll be just as easy as walking on a crutch

Great video Heath

There are a few people who could offer valuable tips in finding our exactly what the problem with the track is. Maybe you could help them out by describing the problem.

Great video!

rebuilding the drive motors will run a couple grand, but could be as simple as the valves, flip the hoses at the valve (should be an access panel under the cab) see what it does, hydraulics seem all scary and big, but in reality there isnt much too em, google a hydraulic shop near you, or mobile diesel mechanic, they can get ya going in the right direction soon enough, bur fer gods sakes dont just scrap it, them big machines in good condition are getting hard to find.

Aren't there some good hydraulics guys in Jerome or even Idaho Falls?

The SAFE WAY to jump that (assuming your pick up has 2 batteries) is : 1) turn the truck off, 2) disconnect the batteries from the truck, 3) using a spare jumper connect, positive to negative on those 2 batteries, 4) connect the remaining positive to the negative to the same terminals on the excavator.

yr track can me the planetary reduction, u can easy make it open and check the oil level, this CASE is in fact a japanese SUMITOMO excavator, so all parts are available from SUMITOMO and also Link-Belt are the same! i think yr track is ok also yr right hydraulic motor but maybe the geardrive can be some bit worn or too low oil level

is it faster going one way than the other? they are big, but not overly complicated. most areas have mobile equipment mechanics that could at the very least diagnose it for you for a few hundred bucks. id be willing to bet you have a valve problem, usually the final drives or pumps get noisy as they fail.

I am glad you bought it and not me.

Check the drive motor pressures first then check the drive motor itself if the pressures are good. Could be simple im sure some place around there rebuilds excavator drive motors cause they are all pretty similar.

Just my 2 cents here : I learned the hard way to be real secure when working on high pressure hydraulics. The teeniest leak can kill you by poisoning when penetrating your skin at high pressure. Serious, man. Lost 2 fingers hunting such a damn leak. Had to have them amputated to save my arm. Take real care, friend.

check the swivel joint connects top of the excavator to the lower half of the excavator

Judgeing from all the comments you just need to find some used parts and there is plenty of guys on youtube who work on these who can tell you what to look for to get going again. And also one guy said there are a few tricks to driving them.

Your RH track not working could be a couple of things. You may have something as simple as a failed relief valve, or maybe even an o-ring on the relief valve in the track motor. The motor itself may have failed, or the pump that powers the RH track may have failed. What you could do to find out is put a 10,000 psi gauge on the output of each hydraulic pump, run the engine at high idle, and pull the arm/stick in or out all the way and hold the joystick so that it goes over the main relief pressure. the arm is a 2 pump function, so both pumps should put out the same amount of pressure. If one pump is putting out less pressure than the other, that pump has likely failed. If the pumps both put out full pressure, you could check the case drain of the track drive motor. In order to do this, there will most likely be 4 hoses on each motor. 2 large main pressure hoses, one medium sized hose, and one small hose. Remove the medium sized hose and cap the hose end. Connect another hose from the fitting on the motor and run it into a bucket. Now stall the track (make sure that it won't move by either placing a large pin between the sprocket and the track frame, or jamming the end of the arm into the track to keep it from moving, and push the travel lever. There should normally be a light stream coming out of the motor. But if the oil coming out is shooting out like a garden hose, the motor has failed. Hopefully this helps.

if the backhoe is 24 volt, and is dead it has 0 volts. lesser volts so 12 volt being feed it to a 24 volt set up wont hurt anything, but the 24 volt being feed in to your truck will. very nice truck by the way. you said last video "you didint know they made them this big." with the work i do, this one is tiny. if you have the time, fix it up, you will be able to sell that for 40,000 to 50,000 easy

Sorry another quick comment, put the ram and bucket back on you'll probably find you can pull yourself up the hill and hopefully avoid getting the track motor done for now.

Dude, this is not hard. Just find an equipment mechanic to ts the drive motor/swivel if you cant do it. If travel is weak it could be in the swivel which is super easy to reseal, or the drive motor is taking a shit, or less likely a valving/relief issue. Check your travel pressure at stall and compare it to the working side. Check the case drain pressure, if it's significantly higher than the other side the motor is failing. Check the hydraulic filter and cut it open using something other than a ziz wheel and inspect it for metal. If you have a pile of metal in the filter check the pump suction screen for large debris. Making metal would be indicative of a pump failure OR a drive motor coming apart or a hydraulic cylinder failing because these things filter on return to tank. Also check pilot pressure and the pilot screen.

This may sound obvious, but what shape is the drive sprocket teeth , and links in on the side not moving?? Have you had anyone watch sprocket to make sure it is not moving? Have you contacted previous owner to see if he could give you any insight to problem? Have you checked fluid color, for water in system? Instead of swapping drive motors like mentioned below, swap lines on pump. If it drives then, you can rule out track drive motor at least, or know if it needs rebuilt, or replaced. Was looking at a 9050 for sale on yuotube, looks like pretty simple system. An inline test gauge with an ebay knock off go pro camera watching it would give you some info if it's hydraulics, and keeps everyone safe, nobody around lines, or on machine when you try it.

The video I've been waiting for

Would have been awesome if it would work. Greetings from Andreas on Off Grid Sweden

Best Regards John

Sometimes you have to know when to cut your losses and move on

Drive motor may be bad for the right track or it may just need fresh fluid. a bucket cylinder shouldn't be that much, just go to a scrap yard and find one that'll fit. this excavator is starting to become uncommon/rareish to see where ever you go and I'd be sad if you scrap it. also, why not use the boom and limp it up the hill? (lift up the right track then move forward)

Why give up so quickly if that thing is running it's such a great asset to the homesteading

Nice

That really stinks about the right track. Wish I knew anything about this equipment and could offer some advice. Good luck.

Good advice get repair manual and maintenance manual

Get one good service guy to come , YES it will cost a few bucks , but get it properly assessed , 200.00 bucks to learn ALL the ins and outs , and what needs or does not need ASAP , is worth the small investment , THEN you will KNOW and can make a good plan .

if you can impliment boom, stick,bucket,swing,one track is faster than the other you can travel pump is not a problem and brakes are releasing inexspensive fix.

Well your up shit creek without a paddle when it comes to that old Case. Parts will be expensive unless you find a scrap yard. And looking at that age. They won't be easy to find.

Another person you can talk to about heavy equipment is Stephen cox he run his own business repair heavy equipment like that case you have

Don't scrap it, that machine is worth way more then scrap value! Issue is probably the hydraulic drive or valving on that side, but find someone that can look at it for you and figure out what repair cost will be! I think you will find that you can repair it, use it for what you need, and sell it for way more then you will ever put into repairs! Now I don't know why you paid tor it, but having seen some of your other purchases, I think you will probably make out good after repairing it.

Pull the batteries for winter or put a solar charger on it. Batteries don’t like deep discharges.

You might check out Jpaydirt on KZfaq, he runs and repairs all sorts of equipment, He lives in Nampa, Idaho, who knows he may be able to help you fix the excavbator.

It is 24volt im sure you know by now but you can jump start it all day long an 12v will work just fine.

So!.. what happen to the Excavator? is there another video of it working? Hope it has a happy ending! :)

Fifty ton excivator? That's an animal!

What's the other concrete structure going to be or used for?

Trax can be. Tightened. Up. Or adjusted ? Could. Be a. Simple O ring in mo. Lever not. Moving Fully. & GROUNDS. SOFT. NOW

It sounds like it's going to need a final drive. If you can find one it's upwards of $5000. It looks like it was taken care of just tired and needs money thrown at it

Disconnect the batteries if you are not using it ,Paul

check bypass valve. springs can brake..

Does the arm still have enough power to walk it up the hill? I know it is worn out and all

Is it worth the cost of repair manuals or can you get them used?

It has a dual variable piston pump on it. The traction motors are controlled one pump for each side. What's probably happening is the one pump is not swashing the plate on that side. The pilot pressure is sent to the controller, either electrically with a solenoid or manually with a valve, to the pump controller. The plate inside the pump then swashes from nuetral to pump mode and hydraulic pressure is sent to whatever function is demanding oil. If one track is working and one is slow it's probably not "swashing the plate" in that pump. If one pump went junk it probably would junk out the other because they share oil and have a common shaft and bearings. It's a simple fix. Study up on variable piston pump hydraulic systems. Some other functions might also work slow because it's only getting single pump flow, like boom up or crowd.

So, what did you ever do with this machine?

Put her back on Craigslist for another buyer!

First thing I would do is get a service manual, or find out where test pressure ports are, and their acceptable pressure readings. i.e. 4000-5000psi., and track down culprit. Could be something as simple as a stuck relief valve, or a broken spring in a relief valve. Or a stuck slider valve, allowing fluid to bypass track motor. Be careful, your smart enough I'm sure to realize you'll be dealing with pressures high enough to cut fingers off, or turn a plug your removing into a bullet, if it's pressurized. Once you know where test ports are, and test pressures, just a simple matter of taking plug out, and screwing gauge into port to test. Nice to have a service manual with precaution warnings, if you've never tested hydraulics before. You can always resell manual if it's junk. Burden surplus, has cheap pressure gauges for hydraulics. I'm sorry, I forgot Burdens, just calls their selves Surplus Center now, they dropped Burdens from the name.

What kind of engine is in it?? 6D22 turbo

it probably needs the motor on that track gone through could be a simple fix.

tried for 4 hr to start my Bobcat(skid steer) running all around it ....Battery..... check, Fuel....check, oil...check,lights and buzzers all working....check, only to give up and sit in the seat ...and find out it has a seat cut off...... DOH !! Made a small sticker for near the key panel..."Sit you ass down stupid !!"

Battery chargers aren't very expensive. I don't know if you have a generator or not though. Because those are expensive lol.

Someday you and your son will be partners !!

Are you sure it's 24 volt? As new as it is hard to believe it's not 12 volt are the batteries negative to positive or post to post and negative to negotiate batteries are probably in paralell

No excavator should be junked. It sounds like the propel motor isn't working properly. Maybe not releasing the brakes as it should in the propel motor. These can be rebuilt on site if you have the patience and skills. Check out LetsDig18 as he has a video on this problem. That machine is too nice to be allowed to die.

It could be the drive clutches slipping

What is the situation now with the machine?

If the engine is that good its worth the money to fix it properly

how much was it?

2 Points Here 1) You only get 24 volts if you connect to the to terminals that go to the machine. If you connect to only ONE set of battery terminals you will only get 12 volts. You can charge the good battery and then use your pickup to replace the bad one and get 24 volts or pull the batteries out of your pickup and install them for a few minutes to get it moved. A little time with a volt meter will teach what you need to know. 2) It is easy to test the drive motor. Take the cover of the inside of the final where all the hyd lines go in and look for a place to tap with a pressure gauge. You can also tell by running the motor at about half RPM and then move the tracks individually. If the weak one doesn't slow the motor as much you probably have a worn out travel motor. They rarely last more than 10,000 hours. NEVER goto the dealer for parts. There is a very good hydraulic shop in Boise that can help you.If the rest of the machine is useable, drive motors aren't horribly expensive and sometimes you can find a used one or rebuild the one you have. Hope this is helpful.