what the hell did i read? a chassis full of electrons searching a way out? so a chassis holds a charge?are you delusional? thats not how electricity works dude, the electrons FLOW because of potential difference...the chassi is at zero potential and so are you...by that line of thinking applying 220v to a steel bar would leave it full of electrons trying to escape....manufacturing of batteries would be so so easy....DAMMM copper wires would shock you all the time even disconnected... Dude i know nothing about cooking so i dont comment on kitchen videos...you know zero about electricity so dont comment here ok?...dont mislead people please..its for everybodys safety...And speaking French doesnt make you smarter ok? once you short the crt's anode cap to chassis there will be no voltage in either part... the crt acts as a very small capacitor ( maybe 20pf or so) because of the aquadag outer coating and the anode inside of it, the glass acting as the dielectric...the current will be very very small but the voltage is maybe 10kv on a black and white and maybe 16 or more in a colour crt. since the current is very small it probably wont kill you if you are healthy but it will zap you and it hurts a little..you will jump back and may get hurt on the glass or in a tool, you may trip and fall and that is the most dangerous...i have been zapped a few times....once you short it to the chassis it will discharge...end of story.... electrolitic capacitors and others on the board MAY in rare occasions hold a charge (poor designed circuitry) ...you can also discharge them with a resistor or by shorting them but i repair tvs and never needed to do so...usually there is dc path around the capacitors through a resistor or inductors etc and they self discharge

If you do ended up doing a full recap, is there any chance you could bung up a list of caps required? I have a dead 5153 myself, and a list would be fantastic.

Let's say that there is 20kv difference between anode and cathode of tube. When shorted you will have 10kv on both sides in reference to ground -if you don't use a resistor. Now we touch it and you get your 10kv jolt. So, please use a resistor and connect tv to real ground.

Voltage is an electrical potential between two points when there is a current path. The anode of the tube could be 20kV in reference to the cathode(which is connected to circuit "ground"). When you short across the capacitor by connecting the anode and the cathode you bring the two to the same electrical potential. Thus if you referenced the anode to the cathode you would see 0V. Mains ground is not a component of the equation. When the CRT is not connected to the mains there is no current path. So any electrical potential between circuit ground and mains ground is non existent.

AkBKukU, you may still get a zap if you are at a different potential to the monitor chassis... I suppose you might mitigate this by grasping the chassis while you are doing the discharge, but I think it would probably still be safer to connect the chassis to earth.

I've only ONCE ever had a slight zap when discharging a 28" colour CRT, and that was only because my makeshift ground wire wasn't securely attached to both the chassis and screwdriver, nor was the screwdriver properly insulated with tape. A lot of screwdriver handles have a high carbon content, btw, or just aren't very good insulators. I'm not sure why people suggesting that you need to hook up the discharge tool to mains Earth, btw? That's just plain wrong, sorry, and possibly dangerous. The whole point of connecting to the CRT chassis ground is that you're then shorting directly ACROSS the tube, since the tube itself forms a high-voltage capacitor. If you try to discharge the tube to mains Earth, it will still likely arc over to it, but by no means will it guarantee fully discharging the tube, since there's no complete circuit for the discharge current to flow. The resistance across the CRT needs to be as low as possible, ie. a direct short. I've safely discharged hundreds of CRTs over the years, and never seen anyone ever connect to mains Earth nor a separate grounding point. (not even seasoned repair people, nor arcade maintenance peeps.)

Yeah, I threw "simple" in the title after I realized this. The real repair should have been simple. But I made it more complicated for myself.

Well.. simple, not short actually. It was REALLY well detailed, so i guess the title is fair.

You should see johns arcade. 2 hour recapping of arcade boards IN REAL TIME if you think this is long!

man it takes me hours to do a recap so faster than me i guess

@@TechTangents that's why you're druaga2

You might enjoy seeing this: twitter.com/AkBKukU/status/1052575518174851072

@@TechTangents remember that if you don't have good 240v capacitors... you can use two of 120v in series is the same criteria that you apply for batteries.. if you don't get a 24v battery.. you can put two of 12v in series ... if you can't get 60 amp of "capacity" batteries .. you can put two 30 in parallel ... with the caps.. is the same criteria ... if they don't get 5000 microfarads... you can use two of 2500 in parallel... ALWAYS SAME VALUE both of them.. and of course for resistors ... every single value that is not manufactured.. is because it is obtained by mixing those that are manufactured. . For example ... 50 ohms does not exist ... because it is obtained with two of 100 in parallel ... 7.8k does not exist ... because it is obtained with two 3.9k in series... 30ohms does not exist ... because it is obtained with 3 of 10ohms in series... 500ohms does not exist ... because it is obtained with 5 of 100ohms in series... OR with 2 of 1K in parallel and like that .. for every other value...

@@Ramdileo_sys Stacking capacitors is a really silly idea, though.

@@miko-nv9cl.... ha! .. tell that to Tesla Motors that is Stacking like a thousand of lithium capacitors to make the battery of their cars............ In serie.. ok.. maybe.... you know, it will work until one of them begins to differentiate from the other.... and then one of them it will start to overcharge and... yeah.... so it is more like a temporary thing.............. but in parallel they are used everywhere..... the anode sheets of both will be working as one..... same with the cathode sheet..... so they wear out together as one...... You see it ..again.. with lithium batteries (which are basically very low self discharge capacitors)..... one or more of the cells in series fail.... but those that are in parallel... are always with exactly the amount of wear.. like identical..

Pretty much exactly as good as the best ones were back in the day they were made I suppose... why the hell would you ever want one?

Better colors and contrast than a TN panel. And they can run at any resolution without aliasing and blockiness. Also they have instant response time. And no they wouldn't be the same as the best ones back in the day. We could make them way better now, higher reseolution, better definition, longer life etc.

"Better colors and contrast than a TN panel" is a pretty dud argument since we have many flatpanels way better than TN available. If you are going to compare against the cheapest LCD tech then by all means compare the cheapest dirtiest CRT tech out there at least. "any resolution" is not really true either, CRTs are rather limited in the upper end of resolutions newer panels can reach. Response times for current screens are way beyond any human perception. I really don't see what tech could have progressed much to make better CRTs except for the same digital processing which is already improving images on modern screens. If you happen to like a blurred uneven and geometrically distorted picture over a "perfect" one given by say a modern OLED then that's just a matter of taste. Same as someone liking the sound of LPs better than very hifi digital audio. There's always room for opinion. I'd say that CRTs did what they needed to do and had some advantages back in the day of low resolutions (natural blurring etc. helped to reduce the blockiness of very, very large pixels) but the days where a CRT would beat a good modern screen in anything are far behind us in my opinion.

Not because it's the cheapest LCD tech, but because it's the most commonly used.

CRTs are rubbish. Use a good quality 4K Q-LED with a decent scaler and you'll get better contrast, better color and no artifacts at basically all resolutions.

@sublexxus79 of course. What I meant to say is you need to pay attention to ESR. If the blown cap is low ESR, you will want to replace it with s low ESR cap.

Yup, can confirm, my 5153 has a big chunk taken out of the top, so I'm trying to source a replacement.

Dami Nooki neat, thanks!

Sounds like someone needs to come up with a crowd funding campaign to manufacture a bunch :D

Woo hoo for paint sticks

He was concerned that a plastic handle wasn't insulating enough, then he uses a wooden stick instead. I'm surprised that he didn't get monumentally zapped, although I think that the metal rod was a shorter path for the current than the wood.

amzn.to/2D3fjnx (that is an affiliate link and I am obligated to mention it) I was sick of the terrible ones as well and decided to find one that people actually liked. A "good solder sucker" was starting to feel like an oxymoron. After some looking around though I found people actually had some fondness for this one so I bought it and gave it a shot. It is miles better than any of the other ones I've used! One of the best parts is how easy it is to take apart and clean when it starts to loose the vacuum.

Right? I'm glad IBM told us otherwise we'd never have noticed.

Tatung manufacture.. not horrible.. just a bit "chinesium".. My Tatung crt tv ran 24/7 for 18 years without issue until it just became too dim to watch with the lights on .. then somebody turned it off.. oops.. hahaha.. anybody want it to repair?.. free.. just needs collecting.. even has it's proper remote!!

None of these are native IBM products. The 5151 monitor's design and manufacturing is of much nicer quality than the 5153. IBM would have released a specification for the 5153 and Tatung would have bid based on their own designs.

I think like you've seen here, explaining how to discharge a CRT is meant with skepticism unless you're wearing a full rubber suit with a Faraday wrapped around it connected to "earth" ground. One of my favourite remarks I've seen is "Also, don't think a CRT which has been powered off for a long period of time will be safe - the CRT will slowly continue to build static electricity just due to the Earth's rotation and magnetic fields." So for the most part I'm going to tell people enough that they should at least be alert about it, but I don't want to try and fight the endless wave of ignorance. I've found soldering for personal/professional use and for video are two different things. Normally, flux in the situation would absolutely be overkill. But when you can see everything in this kind of detail everyone gets hyper-critical about the smallest mistakes. So a slightly frosty soldered pad or a non-perfect looking joint will get tons of comments complaining I suck at soldering. So I find it's better to just make it picturesque so people just chill out. I use that "wiggle" method to remove SMD caps all the time, it is fine. In the 15-30s of soldering I'll show in a videos like this it gets tiresome to explain every step every time. For the record, I use Kester 63/37. So I am using a rosin core. The screw drivers I have all lead to me getting zapped. Like you said elsewhere, it's not actually that bad since the CRT stores so little total energy. I used the paint stick mostly for comedic effect here. I'm going to see about making a proper tool for this out of something like a coat hanger and a wooden dowel.

And on troubleshooting: Since I had been experiencing problems with the red and blue channels independently changing intensity I knew the fault would be somewhere that had discrete analog control over them. So I would have looked for parts of the board with the same circuit repeated three times. Anywhere that had a big cap in those circuits I would have removed the cap and tested it with my ESR meter until I found one out of spec. Or once I have some cash to burn on tools, get a flir and just find the hottest cap on the board. It's probably that one.

i agree with your first reply...its the same on videos were people use an angle grinder or power tools...people are not familiar with the subject and are hyper sensitive/aggressive about safety... i now understand why you wanted to make a perfect job on camera, thus the use of flux, solder sucker, etc...i also expected negative replies to my comment because everybody seems to love flux nowadays...for through-hole or point to point i just dont use it..smd is other story... about the screwdrivers i draw sparks all the time out of the anode caps of Horizontal output valves on vintage tv's (i like to repair them) and i dont get zapped that way, i just make sure to grab the screwdriver not too close to the metal part of it (hope it makes sense)...high voltage will try to arc to the nearest ground potential point so make sure that point is not your body...sparks will arc maybe one centimeter not more so if you keep that distance from the metalllic part of the screwdriver you will be safe...but you do whatever you feel more confortable, if i got zapped using a screwdriver i would not want to use it either :) about the troubleshooting , there should be three equal transistors that amplify red green and blue signals, they would be also suspects....most of the times you can test for ESR in circuit even if there is a resistor or diode in parallel..its not accurate but you can..saves a lot of trouble... capacitance reading has to be done out of circuit 90% of the times because any dc path around the cap will badly mess the reading... thank you for taking time to read comments, nobody seems to do that! i really appreciate it!!! keep the good work

Even better glue on the underside focusing magnets from a discarded CD drive.

kzfaq.infoabout

Oh i get it, it goes well with your name. Thanks, will try. Btw good luck with that monitor

I can answer that - it all depends on where you get shocked - if the anode and cathode touch the same part / area of your body (say you're right handed and the anode and cathode both touch part of your right arm - you'll get shocked (obviously) but not necessarily life threatening - it is when you say use BOTH hands and the current has the chance to travel across your heart - that's when you're in a load of trouble

Well if his chassis was not grounded and that clearly uninsulated screwdriver conducts even a little.. a shock is to be expected. An insulated screwdriver with a grounded chassis should be perfectly fine.

I have seen many a house wiring in the UK where the earth does not go any further than the back of the plug socket.

@@TheDutyPaid then who ever wired them houses shouldent of been hired when in doubt conect an earth wire to a bare bit of copper on a radiator just make sure no body touches it at the same time as u discharge :-)

You still see lighting circuits without earth. Mains side is quite rare but as any one is free to do as they like, then a working earth is often overlooked. I have no radiators in my house but the earth runs to an earth post where the mains comes in and a secondary to the mains water pipe.

You dont need to be a genius to see whats wrong with that.

@@TrolleyMC what is wrong with what?

Zero IBM engineers were involved with the design and manufacture of this particular product made by Tatung.

I use a Marantz MPM-2000U for voice work.

He will once it blows again (in less than a year)

or just take the shock and cry like a baby afterwards lol

Letter Slayer You won’t be crying afterwards.

@@TrolleyMC ok, maybe i exaggerated a little...