I'm 72 and learned something new today. Thank you!

If there was a university who did a degree course on assembling models and creating dioramas, you would definetly have to be the course tutor. I can't think of anyone else who constantly provides the skills and knowledge about this hobby in such a succinct and informative way as you do David. Your channel is one of the best on the whole of KZfaq.

I just love the tiger climbing the watermelon at the end of the video! Thanks for the tip!

Wonderful tip about using CA to tack the joint before soldering! Thank you my friend.

If you're soldering a part that will be visible and you'd like to keep the solder from flowing all over the place, you can restrict where it flows by drawing with a sharpie first...the solder won't cross the sharpie line.

I'm mainly a railway modeler, and have built a lot of PE/White metal Wagon and loccomotive kits. I go with the others who say that you must heat the joint with the flux on it first, and add the solder to it, then pull the tip of the iron allong the joint and the tin will follow when hot enough. This way you can make much neater joints, and enables you to solder joints that will be in sight, without unsightly blobs of solder. Soldering as much as you can on PE parts will make the end result stronger and more durable, any CA joint will fail over time, a good solder joint will last longer than the plastic of the model itself. I'm unfamiliar with the type of flux you use, the liquid resin. But it must have some advantages but also disadvantages over the type of flux I use, which is dilluted phosphoric acid. The main advantage of resin flux is the non-corrosive nature of it, so it doesn't need a very thorough cleaning procedure. But when I compare the way the tin flows in the video with the way tin flows with the phosphoric acid flux I use I conclude that the tin flows much better with the acid flux, and just leaves a very thin film of tin on the surface, that's because the acid flux etches all dirt of the metal including the oxide layer. But it keeps on etching into the metal so after soldering so I wash the parts with cleaning soda (sodium carbonate) to neutralize the acid, but baking soda will work equally well, then I wash the parts under the running tap to flush all residu away, using a toothbrush and an old paintbrush to go into the difficult to reach corners. A glassfibre pen is also a great tool to remove excess tin from vissible area's, it removes the tin very good without damaging the brass. And a warning when soldering on parts that have been glued with CA, the fumes are very irritating and toxic, as they contain cyanide, one of the worst chemical weapons that have been used during WW1, so don't breath those and don't get them in your eyes, that's very painfull as I can tell by experience.

PLASMO-I have been building models for 30 years now and I have learned something new, or a different way of doing something every time I watch your videos, please keep them comming and great work.

Simple, direct and very instructive. Congratulations for your video.

Plasmo I have to say your videos are some of the best out there! You definitely can tell you absolutely love this hobby because your work shows it in every build you do! I found this and most videos you do are very helpful indeed! Thanks for sharing your fine skills with the rest of the world!

Only one warning....it is very easy to overheat smaller parts and even burn yourself quite severely when handling the parts. Brass is an excellent conductor. I usually keep a wet rag and a bowl of ice water to cool parts after soldering them. This is because I have soldered one side before, only to lose the other because the heat reflowed the solder. Great video as usual.

A nice little video. A couple of things I would do slightly differently. I would use the small chisel tip as my main tip not the pointed one.Reason. It delivers heat quicker to the brass allowing faster solder coverage with less "wiping" of the tip on the edge of the brass, as shown here the brass is not heating fast and the solder not running with the flux without continual "wiping". Also cleaning the tip more frequently to ensure even whetting and remove any carbon or residue buildup. And for finishing do not clean the tip, leave a coating of solder on it when finished. Clean it by using the sponge before the next job. Never file, scrape or reshape a tip.

Thanks for the handy tip there. Looking forward to seeing the Tiger v watermelon build.

Very informative. Thank you. Now I'm going to dig out my Dad's old soldering iron, get some supplies and try it out!

Awesome!!! I subbed! I've done circuit boards, LED lights but never thought to solder my photo etched parts! Well I will from now on! Great tutorial friend.

A very good Tutorial. I want to use the soldering technique for some of my pe-parts for my FW190. After i watched your tutorial i know how to do it, thank you.

Thanks David you make soldering such small parts look easy . I'm all all thumb when it come 2 handling these parts. I now feel confident now 2 be able 2 soldering my own photo etched parts.

Hi David, I've watched all these videos on soldering and have failed, I even bought new equipment. You've video was really, really helpful... as have been all your other videos. Thank you!

I like that bending tool, works a treat, as for the soldering, I was always taught to heat the materials to be joined then add solder to the work, however, that was for copper pipes, plumbing and building work etc Heating the materials like etched brass can distort the work piece if you get it too hot, also this is not under any stress so this method works well and won't distort your workpiece as heat is minimal. Looking at how you did it it looks faster too this way as your not having to heat up cold parts every time you solder, just my opinion I'm no expert by any means, great vid thank you

I was taught by my grandfather that you always heat the work, NOT the solder! This is because you want the metal to wick the solder into the joint. Flux is only supposed to assist in this process. When done properly, the solder is fused into the metal. It's probably not that important for this type of model making, since you do not require the joint to be strong, but it is something to consider, especially when attempting to teach proper technique.

Parádní video. Moc díky za návod. Teď se můžu konečně pustit do vlastní stavby leptů. To nanášení kalafuny štětcem a lepení lepidlem před samotným pájením jsou skvělé tipy. Ušetří to spoustu starostí a nervů.

Another excellent video David. There is no end to your skills! Thanks.

Excellent tutorial!!! Very concise and easy to follow.

Excellent David, I stumbled across one of aircraft builds, not only enjoying what you create, but also your choice of background music, some of which I have down loaded. Great Stuff!

Was a good tutorial! Nice to see what you look like too!

The best photoetch video I have watched. Thank you. I will give it a try.

From David to David.....thanks for the great video!

That was excellent always wondered why I never see anyone putting photo etch together like this now I know so again great video.

I learned something today! Thanks

You still can use the soild rosin and dissolve it in alcohol, Isopropanol works great. The liquid flux, most of the time, isn't much else. You can even control the conistency by adding more IPA or letting it evaporate a bit. Done this for years and hat good luck with it. Maybe you can give it a try. And I really like your channel, great vids and many useful tips. Learned a lot from you, thanks. Měj se!

Добрый вечер! Как всегда отличное у Вас видео получилось. Познавательное. делайте по больше таких видео. Удачи Вам и творческих успехов. с уважением Максим.

I didn't know you could do this...very nice video for us newbies still at the basic level of model building, Thank You.

Thanks so much for posting another great video. I look forward to you posting more of your videos. Thanks. Keep them coming.

Когда смотришь со стороны все так просто и расслабляюще🙏🏻 Как сам начинаешь🤕😁 Красивая у Вас всегда работа👍

Very nice video

To clean the tip, use a ball of steel wool used for cleaning pots and pans, i use one that looks like a ball of twisted metal strips. Found it in the grocery store. Not the one with soap in it.

Genuinely helpful, thank you! Terry Pratchett fan?

Great video, makes it look quite easy.

Excellent video - thanks for the series. I find them very helpful!

Thank you David for posting this video, it was very interesting as I'am just starting to use PE upgrade parts for my Saturn 1B and Saturn V.

I just want to say that I know how to do this... I learned how to solder in elementary school... You make it look deceptively easy.

Another helpful video from you PLASMO. Thank you again for sharing these great tips and information.

David,我喜歡你的教學影片，一步一步的，很清楚，背景音樂也搭配的很好，希望有朝一日也能像你一樣厲害。

Great video! One idea: to avoid covering some area with solder, just apply there some lacquer. Easiest way is to use a simple permanent marker pen. For example, your hexagonal component lid soldering would be much easier to limit the solder flow.

Hmm... I'm unable to determine if half-eaten watermelon is a model or real. PLASMO is so good, you could tell me it was scratch built based on an old Monogram model of a Buick and I'd believe it :)

you can also get solder and flux together as a paste, apply to the joint with a brush and heat the metal till it melts, the paste does the rest

Very useful tips, thanks. It is good to finally match a face to the voice too.

Love how the tank in the background is trying to mount the bowl of watermelon.

Great video! I might have to pick up a soldering iron now! Also, that Tiger is coming for your watermelon!

Tnx for a great how to... Really need to get myself a soldering iron now... Have some huge pe parts coming up.

Большое спасибо! Очень полезное видео! Скорее хочется попробовать ваши советы на практике. Thank you very much! Very helpful video! Would rather try your advice.

Thanks David 4 the soldering tutorial. Very helpfull!

Thanks for making yet another inspiring and useful video tutorial. "Be careful, Tiger needs watermelon!" LOL! :-)

very nice video indeed, a pleasure to watch.

Very instructive demo. Thank you

Great video. Thanks for sharing.

u r a gifted master. I build trains and study your technique.

Greetings from Brazil...awesome video and new thecnique for me. keep up the terrific job.

You might want to try limiting where you put the flux rather than flooding the area, so perhaps look for a flux between the two types that you showed, and paint it on the inside rather than the outside, and don't be frightened of the larger tips, I always use a hoof when ever possible , it holds a reservoir of solder so gives a much more uniform thickness. the chisel point is also good for soldering edges. Also wipe your tip each time you charge it with solder. Soldering is a matter of confidence which comes with practice.

Thanks for another great how to video. Last time I did any soldering was doing a crows foot on a WW 2 German tank which was 30 years ago? It came out okay, meaning I was happy with the result, but.... Didn't know soldering guns now come with different tips and liquid flux even existed.

Thanks for this video, now I understand how to soldeiring P E, thanks my friend

Отличное и очень познавательное видео. Спасибо! Арбуз выглядит очень аппетитно ☺

This was really useful! Thank you so much. I wish there was a list of where to buy those strange parts, like the sheet bending apparatus.

Nice video tutorial! Thanks! 👍

Love your videos. Great content and fun to watch.

Photo-etched! I've been trying to find the answer to "what are those metal model kit extra parts called?" for 30 mins. Thank you!

Thank you for this video. I've always wanted to try this (instead of the usual superglue methods) - but was just too nervous to actually do it. Now that I have seen you do it, I just HAVE to try!

Thanks was very interesting. Have tried before with a paste flux but looks like I will get some fluid and give it another go.

When soldering parts, you do not smear solder all over the place, you hold the soldering iron in a place where heat is transferred to the component without touching the exact location where it is supposed to connect. Also clean the parts after soldering because flux is highly corrosive.

Thank you that was very informative. I learned a lot from watching your video.

im just a few steps away from a massive photo etch session on my model, this was perfect timing plasmo :D

Resin ? = a type of Flux. But in Britain there are numerous different types of fluxes each for specific metals. There is also multicore or 4 core pre-fluxed solders, which help avoid some of the messing around with resin and solder as seen in this programme !!!

Great video. Lots of good tips and techniques. Will be subscribing!

Been thinking about having a go at soldering water melons...I mean photo etch (sorry got distracted there lol) Always been put off at the idea, but your tutorial demystified the process and I'm confident I will now be able to build models as good as you. 🤔😂

Flux is meant to clean the parts to be soldered, thereby it helps the solder flow. Oxidation occurs immediately when heat is applied, this flux mitigates this process. You are using tin/lead solder, I think you said 64/36 which is 64% Sn (tin) 36% Pb (lead). Solder will flow to the source of heat, also once it has adhered to the base metal the capillary action will allow you to draw a bead of solder over the part. Always keep you tip clean, tinned and flux the part first before applying heat with the solder, clean the area with IPA (not the beer), isopropyl alcohol, to remove the flux residue. It is often damaging to the base metal and won’t take paint.

Love your videos.

лучший канал! The best channel

Another great How-to video. Thank you.

Hello from Canada. 🇨🇦 Loving your videos. Subscribed!

A great and interesting video indeed. Many thanks for sharing this video tutorial of how to solder PE Parts. It was very useful and I will keep it handy just in case I ever need to look back at it again. By the way Tigers don't eat watermelon, but I do so look out! LOL Have fun with your next project and many thanks again for sharing, Joe

Yeeeeej finally a new video!!!!!

Muy instructivo, la mejor parte....El porque de la pasta de soldar (tanto liquida como pasta), por fin entendi para que servia. Gracias y felicitaciones por el video MUY INSTRUCTIVO saludos

I can quite understand the comment by Steve Puma but in this instance it seems to work well. Always thought this was some black art , but this looks quite do able for most of us .

So perfect! So useful and simple to understand! I often watch your videos again and again. Your mastering is so fantastic. I just try to do my best to repeat your technic. I know that you enjoy building planes.... I;d like to see your tanks building in 1:35 scale. May be WWII or modern. Best wishes!

Again, great!!! You are so skilled, man. I wish I was like you... :-)

Hi, may I add that in a number of small previously bent parts construction, soldering a joint line from inside the part can avoid cleanup and so sanding away detail from the soft brass. Kind regards, Dave Porter UK

Finally another video! Welcome back!!

That was so satisfying to watch, also anyone else singing the old Battlestar Galactica theme tune to themselves?

Thanks for the video, it has definitely helped me with soldering photoetch.

Thanks David. Very good Video. And now learning by doing

And a fine library of Terry Pratchett too I see

Great video! I'm going to try this with my USB soldering iron

started soldering my first time yesterday. should have watched the video before that :D

You’re a master.

Great video as usual. I definitely learned some new techniques,thank you. Oh,and beware of the tiger lol

Очень сложный и кропотливый процесс со сваркой ! Мне понравилось , однозначно Лайк !

Excellent video! Thank you for that!

You are a genius man, thank so much, excelent work

Hi , nice Video good tutorial , maybe i can suggest , you use another Flux,it is more a paste, and it cleans the surface and holds it clean, this is used for Copper piping, and i also suggest use a soft solder without core, no Electronic solder, also you get a solder paste where the tin is mixed with the Flux so you use a brush, apply where needed and only warm up , later clean only with Tap Water, because this Flux is used for Drinking Water .

Thank you, that is a big help to me.

Hi, I also think it's great guide for soldering. Anyway, I only have to just do it. Thank you.