Idle Air Control Valve cleaning. Ford Focus 1.4 16v

Рет қаралды 98,383

9 жыл бұрын

How to clean your Idle Air Control Valve off the car. I used Carb Cleaner. Hope it helps. Will do for most modern fords.

Пікірлер: 19

@MrFaulkan99 8 жыл бұрын

Thanks buddy. Very helpful

@aidanokeeffe3223 7 жыл бұрын

thanks needed that

@aidankiely3951 7 жыл бұрын

Thanks very much

@jasonleslie1860 8 жыл бұрын

thanks for that!

@jonnny8885 7 жыл бұрын

Thank you !

@norbertpodgorski2608 7 жыл бұрын

Thank you

@szellpal1968 7 жыл бұрын

Thank yuo!! :)

@agrumei 6 жыл бұрын

Hello. I did the same maneuver as you did, but I did not put any oil in the end. Now, when I am pressing the clutch, it accelerates it self up to 3000 rpm. Coult this be the reason? because I did not put any oil?

@zlac 6 жыл бұрын

My focus works perfectly most of the time, it only "turns off" sometimes after it just got warmed up and I have a lot of stuff turned on. When I have both Headlights and AC with fan on 3 or higher ON, I brake because of red light and then press clutch on say 1000RPM, the RPMs drop very fast and car turns off... It doesn't do this when car is completely cold and it doesn't do this after it ran more than say 10 kilometers and it's completely warm. It also doesn't do this when AC is on, but headlights are off (or the other way around)

@chevchelios7342 3 жыл бұрын

omg man.. the same problem i have with my 04 mk1 1.4l .. do u have fluctuating idle when u put it in neutral whille comming to a stop?

@zlac 3 жыл бұрын

@@chevchelios7342 I dont't have fluctuating idle, but can't hold say 2700RPM in neutral, it jumps to more than 3000 or falls below 2500. The "car tuns off when slightly warm" stopped this year. I don't know exactly why, but I had to buy a new alternator, cables and spark plugs so it was probably the alternator.

@chevchelios7342 3 жыл бұрын

@@zlac i should do that..i changed every thing, it runs very good but the prob is still there..how much u bought the alternator?? it was new or used?

@zlac 3 жыл бұрын

@@chevchelios7342 I don't really remember, but I think it was something like $200 with work (in my country). They changed collector, "regler" (diodes) and maaaaaybe the rotor if I'm nor mistaken. Stator definitely stayed on. There was some knock in the engine before, then battery stopped charging. Knock disappeared after all those changes (plus cables, plus sparkplugs)